Ramrod Issue

[lockley16]

Hello,

I just recently got a new Armi Sport Enfield, and I have been having some issues with the ramrod. The main issue it seems is that the lock plate bolt (front bolt) is interfering too much with the ramrod. It pins it so tight, I have had to rap cloth around the tulip to use as a "rope" and pull, which sometimes it won't come out. Now I don't want to be the retard on the battlefield with the rammer half drawn, so how do I fix this issue?

Thanks,

Zack Hodges

[mike44thva]

Re: Ramrod Issue

I've never seen a lockplate screw interfere with the ramrod. I think your problem is caused by 1 or both of these (that's assuming that your ramrod isn't bent/warped):

Most likely cause, the lower barrel band. Check to ensure the lower barrel band isn't screwed too tight. This is something I've seen a lot. Remove all 3 barrel bands, then replace the middle and top bands only and see if the problem goes away.

Slim chance, but I've seen 1, is the ramrod spoon under the barrel. If it wasn't inlayed into the stock properly, the pin won't travel through the recess of the spoon correctly, causing it to be too tight against the ramrod.

As always, just my .02¢, based on my experience. Take it for what its worth, I hope it helps.

[lockley16]

Re: Ramrod Issue

Thank you for chiming in, but since I have posted this, I have taken the Enfield apart and put it all back together a few times. The major interference for some reason is the ramrod. Someone told me that shaving/sanding the ramrod might help, but will this decrease the strength of it (I know it will because there is less material, but like dramatically decrease it)?

[Jimmayo]

Re: Ramrod Issue

Is the interference in the ramrod channel or against something else? I have seen the wood swell and make a ramrod stick. There is a better chance of your pulling the tulip off of the ramrod than weakening it by sanding. By the way, don't over tighten the lock bolts. Sometimes it will crack the stock near the breech.

[lockley16]

Re: Ramrod Issue

I have no clue what is happening with the channel. When you don't tighten the bolt, put push it through, the ramrod is fine. If you tighten all the way, the ramrod gets stuck, and if you back up the screw a couple of turns, then the ramrod is really tight, but useable. But for the bolts, I don't believe I am over tightening them, I just turn them until they stop, I don't push it further.

[Craig L Barry]

Re: Ramrod Issue

I am somewhat confused reading this post, perhaps I don't quite grasp the terminology in use fully. When you say "tighten the bolt" are you referring to the front lock plate screw? The ramrod channel would have to be somewhat misdirected for the front lock plate screw to interfere with the proper function, but if that is indeed the issue I would not worry too much about weakening the ramrod by sanding it down slightly. The puzzling part is that it is only by fully tightening the front lock plate screw that you have the problem as noted... The front lock plate screw goes (think compass) E to W, not N to S (up or down). So why would tightening the screw cause friction with the ramrod moving at right angles to it in the ramrod channel? But never mind...let's assume that is indeed the case here. You could reduce the circumference of the ramrod by sanding it.

The other way is to slightly file the front lock plate screw where it is making contact with the ramrod. In other words, screw in the lock plate screw so it is just tight enough that it doesn't move on its own. Put some white lithium or other grease on the ramrod and return it until it seats. Removed the lock plate screw and see where it making contact. Then file it slightly with a circular file. The front lock plate screw primarily holds the lock assembly in place while the springs cycle the lock during firing. It doesn't or shouldn't bear a great deal of tension to the point where the non-threaded part of the screw could not be slightly filed at a friction point.

While I have not heard of this particular issue before with machine made reproductions, original P53 Enfield rifles were largely hand-made and not parts interchangeable and the practice of filing various parts to create a functional, working firearm was a regular feature of "manufacturing" the arm. The job was called "filers and finishers." Anyone who has some degree of experience working with originals will be aware of the need to "fit" replacement parts and that some wood or metal working may be necessary to do so.

[john duffer]

Re: Ramrod Issue

I'm going from memory and probably wrong but I had something similar with an Enfield some years back until I realized one of the lock plate bolts had a groove for ramrod clearance and I had it reversed with the other one.

[lockley16]

Re: Ramrod Issue

Sorry, I have been out for the last few hours. Though the neither one of the bolts have a groove in it, I might make one, because I did find where the ramrod and the bolt was rubbing against each other. I didn't need to use any grease or anything, because it wore away the blueing, if it is the blueing. But it is the right spot, because it is the dead center of the bolt.

But sorry for all the confusion with misleading terminology, I know what I am talking about, but no one else does. And sometimes I forget what something is truly called. Again, sorry about that.

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Ramrod Issue

Hallo!

It is always (use of a universal so noted) to diagnose without the gun in hand.

It is not that unusual for longrifles to have their wooden ramrod channel or hole being mismeasured and have its 'geometry' or alignment off so that that the ramrod (aka "wiping stick") strikes the lock screws (aka "bolts"). As shared, the easy remedy is to file a groove in the screw/bolt to allow the ramrod to pass. It only becomes a problem when the ramrod hits the screw so directly that a groove cannot be made at all and a dummy short screw that is decorative has to be used.

It is very rare, but at times the long drill 'bit' used to drill a ramrod channel gets worn or out-of-whack and drifts as it goes in and down. I had a pard who was notorious in his early daze of building custom-built CW guns to have the bit walk or wander completely out of the stock to teh sides or bottom of the lock area.

If you have access to tools and have some basic skills, you can buy a ramrod channel or hole drill bit (typically an actual drill bit welded to a steel rod shaft) and carefully and slowly drill out the bottom most section of the ramrod channel. If not, you can run teh risk of haivng teh bit exit and stock causing a need for greater cosmetic skills in hiding the hole.

IF the issue is indeed the forward lock screw/bolt, you might be able to fit a long rat tail file long enough, and propane torch heat its tang up at a 90 degree angle to make a tool that will enlarge the ramrod channel with just hand power and patience.

Not having the gun in my hands to check that and other possibilities, it is hard to giver advice on a number of possible causes. For example, overly tightened barrel bands can warp bend the the lower end ramrod out of its channel and/or stock alignment and cause binding- especially the upper two bands.

Curt

I have had several Springfields and Enfields have their ramrods stick due to rain swelling the channel's wood and grabbing the ramrod. Treatment with a stock finish or sealer and/or a rat tail file tool to widen the "groove" took care of repeat problems.

[Craig L Barry]

Re: Ramrod Issue

Yeah, I'm not sure I'd attempt to re-drill the ramrod channel for a problem like this one. Slightly filing the lock plate screw is the way to go here.

[lockley16]

Re: Ramrod Issue

Alright guys, again, thanks for the help. I just got through with filing the front bolt/screw, and the ramrod works perfectly. It is tight enough so that it won't slide out, but I can actually draw it now. I didn't even have to remove much material, just a couple passes with a rasp and it work

[Craig L Barry]

Re: Ramrod Issue

Right, a few hundredths of an inch is often the difference between binding and the free working of moving parts. The simplest solutions are often not only the best, but the most period correct approach as well.

[Michael Comer]

Re: Ramrod Issue

I worked on a fellows musket that had the same problem. I was actually defarbing it but in the course of that noticed the ramrod problem and the reason was that the channel had been drilled incorrectly, jamming the ramrod against the lockplate screw. Someone along the line had taken a chunk out of the screw to allow the ramrod free passage. It wasn't pretty but it worked and the lock was still held tightly in place as it should be.