Interfacing on shirts.

[LongwoodBoy]

I have been working on sewing my own civilian undershirt for a CS impression. My mother insites on me using interfacing in the collar and cuff. I know what she wants me to use is not period correct. Was interfacing used during this time period? If so what would have been used? Thanks for your input.


Tim Hanmer

[Michael Semann]

Re: Interfacing on shirts.

Yes, interfacing was certainly used for garments during the last century. The modern variety is usually made from synthetic materials, and is often of the fusible iron on type, both are of course incorrect.

One solution for shirts, and other light weight garments that I have seen used on extant garments of this type (especially homemade ones) that I have examined, is to use a starched Muslin, tack stitched into place with a tailor's interfacing/lining stitch, which looks something like this:
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/
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/
Make sure that the horizontal stitches, which are those that actually penetrate the fabric sheets, do not show on the right side of the piece you are sewing. Also, to prevent bunching of the fabric, keep your tack stitches loose.

Use a stout weight Muslin, and if the shirt you are making is white, be sure that you get the bleached variety, or it WILL show through the collar/cuff/bib.

The starch will, of course, wash out with laundering, but is used to make the interfacing easier to work with while assembling your collar etc. You will still have to starch and iron the appropriate parts of your "Boiled" shirts and such, just as those in the Nineteenth century did.

By the way, I have seen more surviving examples of period shirts without any interfacing than those with, so to be accurate, it isn't absolutely necessary. If you are copying a specific shirt (and hopefully you are.) you must of course follow the method of construction used for that specific piece. What I have attempted to give you is information of the most general nature, do keep this in mind.


This will suffice for the purpose you have proposed. Hope that this is of help to you. If you would like further help, feel free to E-mail me.

[BHoover]

Re: Interfacing on shirts.

If you are making shirts, a great resource is the book Thoughts on Men's Shirts in America, 1750-1900 by William L. Brown III

This book examines original shirts from the period in the title, with photos and drawings that are sufficient to make the shirts.

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Interfacing on shirts.

You might also patiently explain to your mom that while you appreciate the help, and would be tickled to use modern interfacing on a modern project, this is designed to replicate the way they were doing it in the mid-century, and so you will be using only documentable practices and techniques for it.

[Kykeydet12]

Re: Interfacing on shirts.

You might also patiently explain to your mom that while you appreciate the help, and would be tickled to use modern interfacing on a modern project, this is designed to replicate the way they were doing it in the mid-century, and so you will be using only documentable practices and techniques for it.

and if that doesn't work scream real loud and hold your breath until your face turns blue :cry_smile (I've never seen anyone over 13 do that so send me a photo :wink_smil )



and by the way for future reference , I'm only joking.

Rob young