Buttonhole Stitching

[JimConley]

The old AC site had an article by Nick ************ on how to go about doing buttonholes. I was curious if anyone could provide me with a link to that or provide a copy. Also, any allaboration on the subject would be most helpful. I know this is not something that one can be told, it must be shown, but I'll take what I can get. Thanks.

[NC1862]

Re: Buttonhole Stitching

Jim,
Heres what I found in the articles section of the AC site, I dont know if it would be of any help but here it is Stitches for Buttonholes

Your Obt. Servt.
Tyler Murphy

[JimConley]

Re: Buttonhole Stitching

Thank you pard. That should benefit.

[NC1862]

Re: Buttonhole Stitching

No problem Jim, anytime!

[TKlas]

Re: Buttonhole Stitching

Jim,

You may want to send Chris Sullivan an e-mail to ask for his directions on sewing buttonholes. I think years ago the Rockport Mess (I know I am dating myself here) had Chris' permission to post his directions on their website with some diagrams of each stitch including even felling seams.

I learned how to sew buttonholes with relative ease after some practice using Chris' directions. Waxing the thread aids in the sewing process I have found depending if your using 100% cotton or linen thread. Sometimes cotton and especially linen thread can be rather delicate and tends to break after repeated stitches.

You can reach Chris Sullivan at cams@bridgemicro.com

Good Luck sewing,

[pvtRB_4thOVI]

Re: Buttonhole Stitching

Just curious, is there any documentation of any buttonholes being done my machines? I ripped out my machine stitched holes and hand sewed them, but I'm curious to whether they were ever done with machines.

[James Masson]

Re: Buttonhole Stitching

Just curious, is there any documentation of any buttonholes being done my machines? I ripped out my machine stitched holes and hand sewed them, but I'm curious to whether they were ever done with machines.

In short, yes. Ther was a buttonhole machine during the period. Although, a buttonhole done on a period machine looks nothing like a modern machined buttonhole.

[KathyBradford]

A request for Chris Daley

One of the great losses from ”the crash of ‘03” was the thread started by Chris Daley. He had posted detailed, step-by-step, illustrated directions for making buttonholes. It was so helpful to be able to send people who had “seen the light” to that thread. Chris, you're one of the busiest men alive, but is there any chance of a resurrection?

[CJDaley]

Re: A request for Chris Daley

Chris, you're one of the busiest men alive, but is there any chance of a resurrection?

Sorry, my hard drive crashed as well and that was one of the victims. I'm not sure I have the time this spring to work on it. There are several good books out there including some found on this page: http://cumberland-trail.com/books.htm

My best suggestion is to do about 1,000 buttonholes. Make some shelter halves for your friends, practice on some poke bags and such.

Sorry I can't take the time to post, but I need to be behind the sewing machine this time of year and not the computer.

[ElizabethClark]

Re: A request for Chris Daley

Also, most "sewing encyclopedias" (such as those from Reader's Digest!) have step-by-steps with diagrams on hand-worked buttonholes.

I'd ditto Chris: it just takes practice. Lots of practice. Working on the stitch formation slowly at first helps a lot, as it trains your muscles in the correct motion. The stitches need to be close to each other for good, solid coverage, but never overlapping; the tension firm, but not so tight the fabric puckers up.

[Canton Zouave]

Re: Buttonhole Stitching

Chris & Elizabeth are correct, the best thing for buttonholes is PRACTICE, PRACTICE, AND PRACTICE. When you are done with that... Practice.

I have made about 70 shirts and I just finally got to the point that I like my button holes.

One thing that I have started to do, is to wax the area of the cloth that I need to cut for the hole. This keeps some of the loser weave cottons together as I stitch away. (AKA: FHW, REPRODUCTIONFABRICS.COM) Then with a waxed thread and a nice sharp short needle away I go. Once I am done, I then press my button hole removing the wax residue.

The cut for the button hole is made with a sharp chisel. I got a nice chisel & punch set for making button holes at an 18th Century event last year, and it works great. It makes great straight, wedge, & keyhole buttonholes.

In addition, here is a good source for sewing techniques....which has been posted on this forum several times before, but it is helpful.

http://www.vintagesewing.info/19th.html

[JohnTaylorCW]

Re: Buttonhole Stitching

With the Kind permission of Chris Daley - who started this classic thread (And if anyone kept copies of the pictures, please let me know, and I'll try to splice things together.)

John T

___________________________________________
Show all 39 posts from this thread on one page

The Authentic Campaigner Forums (http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/vBulletin/index.php)
- Camp of Instruction (http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/...php?forumid=10)
-- Hand-worked Buttonholes (http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/...?threadid=6514)


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Posted by CJ Daley on November 10th, 2002 02:36 PM:
Hand-worked Buttonholes

HAND-WORKED BUTTONHOLES

Most people who do their own sewing do so in order to insure that the buttonholes on their garment are hand sewn. However, running a needle and thread around a hole doesn't make it a buttonhole. Hand top stitching and hand worked buttonholes are one of the first things that people will see when they inspect your garment. Having a good pattern, knowledge of construction techniques and a good iron are a start, but it's the finishing touches that will really set your garment apart from others.

Here are some tips that I would suggest practicing.

PLACEMENT
Placement of the buttonholes is crucial. Be sure to take particular notes off the garment you are copying in regard to this or follow your pattern's instructions to the letter. Mark the placement of the buttonholes with a pencil or a piece of tailor's chalk. Count that you have the correct amount of buttonholes marked. Then count again, then count a third time...you don't want to make a 3 button sack coat or a 8 button Infantry Uniform Coat.....

USE A CHISEL
I suggest using a wood chisel and a hammer to ‘punch’ out the buttonholes. This give a more uniform appearance than you achieve with scissors. Make sure to line up the chisel evenly along the yarns to get a clean cut. The size of the chisel you choose will depend solely on the diameter and height of your buttonhole. Most cuff sized buttons will require a 3/4" chisel, coat sized buttons require a 1" chisel and most muffin style coat buttons will require a 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" chisel.

To do a key hole buttonhole, just take a 1/8" round leather punch and place it on outside edge of the buttonhole BEFORE you punch the slit with the chisel.

PREPARING THE HOLES
When working with jeans, I also suggest overcasting the button hole with about 10 loose stitches to keep the buttonholes from fraying.

THE THREAD
I would highly recommend getting a spool of #16 buttonhole/top stitching thread. There are other sizes you can use, but the #16 size will work for most of the garments you'll be making from drawers, to frock coats. Color choice is up to you of course and will depend on the original garment you copied. The thread you use should be waxed to prevent curling and knotting, but this must be done sparingly to avoid staining the fabric or having the wax clump up on you.

The length of the piece of thread you cut will depend on the size of the buttonhole, but you should be able to do most 1" buttonholes with about a yard of thread (this isn't something you want to misjudge).

I usually use a #8 or #9 sized needle. I know some people who use a larger one, but they seem like harpoons to me and the smaller ones usually lend themselves to being more manageable.

STITCHES PER INCH
A good hand-worked buttonhole has stitches worked close together, stitches of even depth. The stitches per inch will depend the thickness of the thread you use. I've seen buttonholes with 44 stitches per inch and some with 8 stitches per inch. If you are sewing with a loosely woven material with large yarns like a jean cloth, then you'll actually want to do fewer buttonholes per inch. On a jean jacket, my 1" buttonholes will usually have 55-60 stitches, on broadcloth, they'll have about 70. On utilitarian garments like issue shirts, drawers or shelter halves, you'll have less.

The depth of the stitch again will depend on the fabric. Too deep and you will distort the fabric if you pull tight, too shallow and the stitch will come through the cloth (especially if the fabric doesn't hold a raw edge well).

The regular buttonhole may be horizontal, with a rounded fan-end near the garment edge (where the button rests), and a bar tack at the other end or it may have fans at either end. The directions below will explain how to do the former. To do the later, just skip the bar tack.

Start at bar end. With a knot at thread-end, insert needle into right side of fabric about 1/2" from bar end, and bring it out through the slit at that end (30). (The knot will be removed later.) Cover edges with buttonhole stitch (see below), making a fan or a bar tack at ends.



Finish off thread-ends carefully. Clip off the thread used for starting, and pull out the knot.

Buttonhole stitch is worked from right to left, with the needle pointing toward you. Loop the thread as shown (31) and insert needle into slit, bringing it out just below stitching with eye and point over the looped thread.


Draw up needle away from you so that the purl (32) is formed at edge of slit. Do not draw up the thread too tight. The purl is the most difficult thing to learn, I find that while most people can get the stitch down pretty well, they either don't pull tight enough to form the purl, or pull to tight and the purl gets distorted.



The fan is worked around the end as shown. Keep stitch-depth even and turn gradually (33).



The bar tack is made by taking two stitches at buttonhole end, across both rows, and then working over these threads with blanket stitch without catching the fabric. Use the needle eye-first, as shown (34). Then put the needle through to wrong side.



CORDING?
If you are cording your buttonholes, take a piece of size 12" thread and place it under the stitch. The cording will help to give your buttonhole some form and keep it's shape.

So, how did you all do with your first buttonholes? Very Good? Not so good? I say practice, practice, practice. You don't want to practice on that nice new coat your making and it's better to spend the rest of the winter working on practice buttonholes to insure your garment's finishing touches are perfect.

I hope these tips have helped and if anyone has questions, please post them here so we all can see the answers.......

__________________
Sincerely,
Christopher Daley
christopher.daley@myactv.net

Vestis virum facit



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Posted by KathyBradford on November 10th, 2002 05:33 PM:
Your Commendable Generosity

Dear Mr. Daley,

You have set a fine example for us all. Rather than hoarding your well-researched information, once again, you have generously shared some of the finer points of finishing garments. The use of a chisel for buttonholes is inspired!

With much appreciation,
Kathy Bradford


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Posted by Curt Heinrich Schmidt on November 10th, 2002 05:39 PM:


A bully post, Herr Daley!

Thanks for sharing!!!
Moderators. Please consider saving it into the FAQ section?

Curt-Heinrich Schmidt
Tired of Frankenstein Stitched Garments Mess


Oh. Consider placing a a piece of thick piece of pad of hard leather under your button hole for the chisel to strike into. It saves on resharpening over wood, if one is uses the kitchen table for sewing, your wife or S.O. may come to appreciate it as well....

__________________
Curt Schmidt
I didn't like him anyway... he wasn't right...in the head.



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Posted by LibertyHallVols on November 11th, 2002 11:20 AM:
Fantastic!!!

I tried using a wood chisel (1") on the last garment that I made. This was a HUGE help!

Thanks!

__________________
John Wickett



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Posted by Curt Heinrich Schmidt on November 11th, 2002 06:23 PM:
Question?

Hallo, Kameraden!

I am not a tailor or clothier at all, but...
Wasn't (isn't) historically/presently, there a chisel-like tool in the "business" for actually doing the chisel's work of cutting a button-hole?

Curt-Heinrich Schmidt
Dunno Mess

__________________
Curt Schmidt
I didn't like him anyway... he wasn't right...in the head.



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Posted by unkle beau on November 11th, 2002 07:34 PM:

Hey Chris,

Thanks, this was a good refresher for me.

I always tangle the thread when doing this. Someone suggested waxing the thread as you suggested and ironing it. It just takes a minute.

Beeswax candle works great and when the thread is ironed it tends to lay flat and will not tangle up. As you say, don't go crazy waxing the thread.

D. "Uncle Beau" Cope


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Posted by Franklin Guards NYSM on November 11th, 2002 07:56 PM:

I've seen an antique (don't know exactly when it was from) buttonhole cutter...a two-handled device (like a pair of scissors) with a blade and a rectangular frame (with, I believe, adjustable length) that was specifically for cutting buttonholes.

Another good thread treatment, if you don't happen to have beeswax, is a bar of lye soap. (Thanks to Kathryn C. for that one!)

__________________
Marc A. Hermann
The Daybreak B'hoys

http://www.myrtle-avenue.com/daybreak

SAC Co., Liberty Rifles - Hardtack Society




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Posted by CJ Daley on November 12th, 2002 12:42 PM:
Chisels...

Antique Buttonhole Punches
I've seen some antique b-hole punches, they aren't like the one that Marc describes, but they are VERY cool and VERY expensive.

I saw one that I desperately wanted to buy in an antique store in Lancaster. It was a keyhole buttonhole punch with the rounded punch and the straight chisel all in one device...at the time it was out of my price range and with my luck, I'll never see it again!

Keeping them sharp
As far as keeping the chisels sharp, don't punch the buttonholes on a piece of cement or on the hood of your car. Most chisels these days are made from pretty awful steel and sharpening them every few weeks (for as many b-holes as I do) can wear them down pretty quickly. Do your best to just give the b-hole one good whack. I've had guys in my shop who punch buttonholes like they are driving rail spikes and after 6 or 7 whacks they drive the chisel half way to China.

FUNNY NOTE
I was at the YMCA the other day and dropped my 17 month old off at the baby sitting area at the gym while I did my work out. When I came back to pick him up he was playing with a toy hammer and toy screw driver and was hammering the screw driver into the front of his jacket.

The other kids were laughing at him and told him screwdrivers were for screws and hammers were for nails....
....but he just smiled at me as we both new that his apprenticeship had begun!

__________________
Sincerely,
Christopher Daley
christopher.daley@myactv.net

Vestis virum facit



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Posted by SCTiger on November 14th, 2002 02:38 AM:
wax and iron?

Without sounding ignorant, how do you wax the thread?? Do you light a candle and spill some melted wax on the thread or what? If you iron the waxed thread does it melt out?? Do you dip the thread?? Where can one find the appropriate thread?


Greg Deese
Wax on Wax off Mess

__________________
Gregory A. Deese (Deas)

Rowdy Pards- SC Section






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Posted by Franklin Guards NYSM on November 14th, 2002 02:59 AM:

Greg -

Waxing thread merely means threading a needle as normal, but drawing it over the surface of a piece of beeswax (applying pressure with the thumb from the top), to be done no more than twice.

__________________
Marc A. Hermann
The Daybreak B'hoys

http://www.myrtle-avenue.com/daybreak

SAC Co., Liberty Rifles - Hardtack Society




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Posted by Curt Heinrich Schmidt on November 14th, 2002 02:59 AM:

Hallo, Kamerad!

One of the easiest ways is to take a small chunk of yellow or white beeswax in hand, and drag a length of string through it (well across the top actually, rather than "through it.").
Around here, yellow beeswax is the softer and "stickier" of the two- white being harder and "drier." (varies with the bees and locales).
Ironing your uniform??
The wax coating seems to breakdown and "vanish" with time and exposure anyway.
PEC Linen thread is available from a number of suppliers/sutlers. Some of the more readily available sources are often 18th century or longhunter suppliers such as Wilde Weavery, Silver Shuttle, and Blue Heron Mercantile.
Cotton thread occasionally shows up, but I am not aware of any one making "CW period" cotton thread. The modern stuff is mercerized, or often cotton covered polyester.
I seem to recall someone saying quilting cotton thread was not mercerized. I doubt it though, but do not know. Best let the experts answer here.

Curt-Heinrich Schmidt

__________________
Curt Schmidt
I didn't like him anyway... he wasn't right...in the head.



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Posted by SCTiger on November 14th, 2002 03:07 AM:
mega thanks

Thanks Curt, Chris , Mark et al. I'll give it a wing on my new RD2 jacket , but I may practice a few times on some old flour sacks.

Greg Deese

__________________
Gregory A. Deese (Deas)

Rowdy Pards- SC Section






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Posted by grywht415 on November 14th, 2002 05:56 AM:

We use Coats & Clark 100% Cotton Hand Quilting Thread...it's about as correct as you can get.

__________________
Gary Davis White, Jr.
Speight's 15th Texas Infantry Co. A

https://www.geocities.com/TexasGroundhornets/

"The Chamber Pot Boys"

"All new states are invested, more or less, by a class of noisy, second-rate men who are always in favor of rash and extreme measures, But Texas was absolutely overrun by such men." Sam Houston



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Posted by GBaylor on November 14th, 2002 11:23 AM:

Chris,

Could you possibly be refering to me with the comment" I've seen guys in my shop hit the chisel like they're driving railroad spikes"

John Sweeney
Railroad man


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Posted by CJ Daley on November 14th, 2002 12:19 PM:

To all:
I suggest contacting County Cloth who sells 500 yard spools of #16 thread for only $6 per spool.

NOTE: Coats and clarks hand quilting thread is WAY too thin in my opinion. The linen thread on the market is not spun correctly and is not appropriate for hand done buttonholes. I don't know what "PEC" means, but 18th Century thread out there is not correct for the CW period. I only wish someone was making linen thread that could be run through a machine or used for buttonholes that was correct, but there isn't. (Of course, you may use what you wish as my original post was only my suggested method for finishing buttonholes)

Mr. Sweeney:
While you are the only reenactor I know who works for the rail road, I certainly didn't mean to imply that you were the individual who was doing this....however, since you brought it up and refreshed my memory....you were digging pretty deep into that block of wood! Keep your powder dry my friend and good luck loading all those extra pistol cylinders for Remembrance Day!

__________________
Sincerely,
Christopher Daley
christopher.daley@myactv.net

Vestis virum facit



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Posted by SCSecesh on November 15th, 2002 04:29 AM:
Help

Greg,
If'n you bring that RD to Charleston next weekend I'll help you with the BH's if you're interested.

__________________
David Chinnis
Palmetto Living History Assoc.

"What country can preserve its liberties if their rulers are not warned from time to time that their people preserve the spirit of resistance. Let them take arms." Thomas Jefferson




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Posted by SCTiger on November 15th, 2002 11:42 AM:
sent email

I sent you an email concerning Charleston. I also found this site about button holes;however it wasn't as good or as in-depth as Mr. Daley's. It did have two other ways to stitch. Maybe he can update them.

Greg Deese

http://www.ushist.com/general-information/stitch.htm

__________________
Gregory A. Deese (Deas)

Rowdy Pards- SC Section






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Posted by CJ Daley on November 15th, 2002 12:06 PM:

Mr. Deese,
Thanks for posting that link, but there is actually only one buttonhole stitch on that page. One of the things that prompted me to start this thread is that I feel too many people are doing the easier and quicker blanket stitch instead of a proper buttonhole stitch. Of all the original CW garments I've looked at, none had a blanket stitch and none had a 'cross over hand' stitch. I won't say never as I haven't (and never will unfortunately) see every surviving CW garment, but none of the ones I've seen have these two stitches.

However, as noted in the Company Wag many years ago, buttonholes did very in quality for some garments and there is even one extant sack coat that had raw (no stitching) buttonholes. This being said, I feel that the 21st century seamsters, seemstresses and tailors attempting to reproduce 19th Century garments should try our best to perfect these stitches. We don't live in a sewing culture like our counterparts from the 1860's did and not having grown up sewing, our best attempt would have been thier worst (IMHO).

Any othe questions, please ask.

__________________
Sincerely,
Christopher Daley
christopher.daley@myactv.net

Vestis virum facit



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Posted by LibertyHallVols on November 15th, 2002 02:18 PM:
Closing the Gap

CJ Daley said, "We don't live in a sewing culture like our counterparts from the 1860's did and not having grown up sewing, our best attempt would have been thier worst"

My question: How do we close this gap between our skill and their's in order to end up with well-made reproductions?

The only solutions that I have come up with (thus far) are time and "cheating."

Time: well, it takes me longer to do things that what I imagine it took "them." If I am making a garment that should have been "well-made," then things like buttonholes and topstitching take me a R-E-A-L-L-Y long time. I don't have the skill to be time-efficient and have expertly done stitching. Therefore, I take my time.

Cheating: I pre-mark seam allowances whenever possible (when hand-stitching) to ensure that they are absolutely straight.

Any other tricks-o-the-trade out there?

__________________
John Wickett



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Posted by SCSecesh on November 15th, 2002 03:44 PM:

If you pop a stitch on the blanket stitch you'll come unbuttonholed pretty quickly!

__________________
David Chinnis
Palmetto Living History Assoc.

"What country can preserve its liberties if their rulers are not warned from time to time that their people preserve the spirit of resistance. Let them take arms." Thomas Jefferson




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Posted by HistCloth on November 17th, 2002 11:59 PM:

deleted


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Posted by CJ Daley on November 18th, 2002 12:46 AM:

I folks would like excellent silk buttonhole twist they may contact Needle and Thread Fabrics in Gettysburg. Darlene carries a wide range of colors in this type of thread at a great price, she also carries copies of The Workwoman's Guide.

(If you need more than a 200 yrd spool of silk b-hole twist, contact me and I'll get you some 2500 yrd cones)

__________________
Sincerely,
Christopher Daley
christopher.daley@myactv.net

Vestis virum facit



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Posted by HistCloth on November 19th, 2002 07:39 PM:

deleted


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Posted by Bige on November 19th, 2002 08:04 PM:

One thing that should be noted here is that VERY few original enlisted garments dating from the Civil War were made by Tailor's, in looking at some of my notes on original clothing that I examined none had fine buttonholes. Most had 6-7 stitches per inch on buttonholes. These are on both CS "homespun" style garments, government depot garments plus US fatigue blouses, trousers, Dress coats, and Overcoats. As well as several items of original Civilian clothing.

All of these garments disply acute irregularities in stitching on the buttonholes, sizes, placement etc. The thread varies as to size and weight as well as color in some places. There are obviously well tailored officers garments in great quantities that match the descriptions of these buttonholes, however I have yet to see an enslisted garment with "identical" buttonholes or those of very fine quality except one CS jacket with corded buttonholes.

__________________
Ethan Rogers

Cracker Line Guards



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Posted by CJ Daley on November 19th, 2002 08:12 PM:

Please re-read my posts and Nick's posts. We DO NOT live in a sewing culture Ethan and that our best stitching will still be considered average for our 19th Century counterparts.

All garments (CS or US) had to pass inspection. They had to meet certain standards and they had to be functional and durable. There were standards for the cloth, the pattern and the assembly.

__________________
Sincerely,
Christopher Daley
christopher.daley@myactv.net

Vestis virum facit



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Posted by ohiofed on November 19th, 2002 08:31 PM:
antietam visitors center

I know of one garment I THINK!! In the Antietam Visitors Center when you walk in and on the left before you go up the stairs to that overlook deal there is that Zouave jacket in the case on the right. I forget what unit it belonged to but I think it was a battlefield pickup after the battle by a local citizen? When I looked at it the last time I was there, it seemed as though those buttonholes were very shoddy (correct word I think) But they looked very spaced out. I dont know if my eyes were decieving me or not but the button holes did not look like they were well done. maybe the thread has come undone over the period of time? Somebody could maybe tell me if this is true or not. Could this have been an example of a hastily made garment? Thanks

Isaac Forman
Sneaky Snake Mess

__________________
Isaac Forman




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Posted by CJ Daley on November 19th, 2002 08:34 PM:

Isaac,
That buttonhole was NOT done by a tailor. That buttonhole was not done at an arsenal or contactor facility. That buttonhole was done after it was issued by a soldier (apparently he was also blind) to make the jacket fit better. That is not an example of a buttonhole done to an issue garment that had to pass inspection.

__________________
Sincerely,
Christopher Daley
christopher.daley@myactv.net

Vestis virum facit



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Posted by ohiofed on November 19th, 2002 08:39 PM:
antietam jacket

Chris, Thank you for clarifying that for me. I was just hoping I wasn't seeing something that wasn't there because that jacket always boggled my mind as far as how poorly the buttonholes were set.

Isaac Forman

__________________
Isaac Forman




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Posted by CJ Daley on November 19th, 2002 08:43 PM:

You are absolutely correct, they are poorly done.

I'm not saying everyone in the 19th Century had magical fingers, but anyone who worked for the government (tailor or seamstress) regardless of where they worked (arsenal or contractor) WAS skilled with a needle.

To read more about the life of a government seamstress...click here: Story of a Government Seamstress

__________________
Sincerely,
Christopher Daley
christopher.daley@myactv.net

Vestis virum facit



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Posted by HistCloth on November 19th, 2002 09:23 PM:

deleted


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Posted by vbetts on November 19th, 2002 09:43 PM:
More on contract sewers, some army

NEW ORLEANS DAILY PICAYUNE, April 17, 1864

Inhumanity of the Humanitarians.

At a meeting of the working women, held in Cooper Institute, New York, recently, one of their number made a statement of prices paid for the making of various articles, exhibiting them to the audience. The following are some of the statements of prices paid for work on articles exhibited:
A pair of drawers, made of white cotton drilling, 1800 stitches, sewed on the machine and well made, completely finished with buckles, button holes, straps and strings. The woman who made these drawers was a smart operator, and could finish four pairs per day working from 7 o'clock in the morning until 9 o'clock in the evening, receiving four and one-sixth cents a pair, or sixteen and three-quarter cents for her day's labor; resting, she says, long enough to make herself a cup of tea and eat a piece of bread.
Another very large pair of cotton flannel drawers, two thousand stitches, done by hand, double seams felled, with eyelets, button holes, buttons, stays and strings. The working woman to furnish her own thread--a rule adopted by employers since the price of a spool of cotton has risen from four to eight and ten cents. This woman, the mother of three children, was very poor, and came to the rooms of the Working Women's Protective Union, No. 4, New Chambers street, where she threw down the work, saying she had been working on these drawers for seven months and could not work any longer for the price paid. Said she, "I may as well starve without work as to work and starve at the same time." An inquiry revealed the fact that the wealthy firm who employed her paid five and a half cents per pair of these drawers, of which she could make two pair per day, remarking, "If I get to bed about daylight and sleep two or three hours, I feel satisfied."
A haversack pocket, made by hand, containing upwards of six hundred stitches and three button holes--two yards of sewing. This article was manufactured by a woman who thus tried to support her sick husband and four little children. Each pocket required on hour's faithful labor, and the compensation received was one and one fourth cents, or twelve and a half cents for ten hours' work. She furnished the thread.
A coarse flannel army shirt, large size, made by hand sewing. Collars, wristbands and gussets put on with double rows of stitching all round. The seams all felled, three button holes, buttons and stays, requiring upwards of two thousand stitches. The woman who made this garment was sixty years of age and too deaf to go to the store for orders. She has worked on these shirts since the war broke out, receiving seven cents each--one of them being a good day's work for her. Younger women might make two or perhaps three in twelve hours, furnishing their own thread. This old lady occupied, with another woman, a damp, dark basement, where she strained her eyes in the day, and sewed by the light of her neighbor's lamp during the evening. At the end of the week her net earnings, after paying for needles and thread, amounted to thirty nine cents in currency.
A fine white cotton shirt, with a fine linen plaited bosom, nicely stitched and well made throughout, containing eleven thousand five hundred sewing machine stitches, six button holes, felled seams, etc. Two of these shirts are finished each day by the operator, who employs nearly every moment of her time, finds her own thread, and receives for the garments sixteen cents each, or thirty-two cents for more than twelve hours' labor. These shirts sell for three dollars to three dollars and fifty cents in the retail stores. Their total cost to the employer is one dollar and fifty nine cents.
Ladies' collars and cuffs, containing 1700 fine sewing machine stitches, the outer edge being ornamented with an insertion of various colored trimmings. These articles of ladies' wearing apparel are made for twenty one cents per dozen sets--a set consisting of the collar and two cuffs. Three dozen sets are made per day by a good operator, working early and late. The thread is paid for by the woman who takes out the work. A dozen sets will cost:
One yard of linen…………………………….$ .90
One yard of muslin…………………………… .25
Fourteen yards of trimming at 8c. per yard…..…1.12
Labor and thread………………………………..21
_____
Total……………………………..$ 2.58
This retail price per set in the Broadway and Bowery stores is 75 cents. The wholesale prices are not less than $5 per dozen sets.
A fancy flannel shirt, well made on a machine, 1500 stitches, six button holes, and seven buttons, double stitched wristbands, bands and gussets. This article was made for eight cents, and is sold in the gentlemen's furnishing stores for $2.50. The cost of the article to the merchant is $1.12.
Board, which was formerly $1.50 per week, is now $2.50 to $3.


Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net


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Posted by Curt Heinrich Schmidt on November 19th, 2002 09:50 PM:

Hallo, Kameraden!

Not much different than our modern "designer jeans," produced in 3rd World countries for between 11 and 45 cents, sold here at malls for far more?

Curt-Heinrich Schmidt
A Profit Is a Fine Thing If One Can Get It Mess

__________________
Curt Schmidt
I didn't like him anyway... he wasn't right...in the head.



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Posted by C.Osgood on November 20th, 2002 10:42 AM:

Chums,

I figured I would add some pics of original button holes, the pic is of an original unknown contractor greatcoat. The buttonhole is very nicley done. The buttonhole appears to be corded and is sewn with logwood dyed thread.



__________________
Casey Osgood
The Sappers
"Essayons"

"I am now satisfied with soldiering but I did not want to see this thing
through and now I believe I have"

Jas. Morrison Co.E 149th NYSV, April 1865




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Posted by Franklin Guards NYSM on November 20th, 2002 11:08 PM:

As Casey and others have pointed out, the quality of buttonholes was far from standard throughout garments. Specifically, the NY State jacket in West Point's collection features rather well-done buttonholes on the body, yet those on the epaulettes and belt loop are W-I-D-E and uneven. One could imagine a person in the factory whose job was to sit and make nothing but epaulettes all day.

Another is an 1850-60s fire shirt in the American Museum of Firefighting in Hudson, NY. The shirt is entirely handsewn with a backstitch, and very tightly and evenly at that -- however the buttonhole leaves much to be desired. The curator, after replacing the shirt in the case thought she should hide the shirt's missing button and ugly buttonhole with the description card -- I told her to leave it displayed, as there are some of us out there who specifically look for that stuff!

__________________
Marc A. Hermann
The Daybreak B'hoys

http://www.myrtle-avenue.com/daybreak

SAC Co., Liberty Rifles - Hardtack Society




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Posted by C.Osgood on November 20th, 2002 11:16 PM:

Chums,

Hoping this image comes up, the last one did work and now it don't seem to be working, so heres another stab at posting a pic. This is what I call the POS of all buttonholes, it is crap, however it may be so because the coat is very badly moth damaged. Anyhow heres the pic, lets hope it works.



__________________
Casey Osgood
The Sappers
"Essayons"

"I am now satisfied with soldiering but I did not want to see this thing
through and now I believe I have"

Jas. Morrison Co.E 149th NYSV, April 1865




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Posted by Bo Carlson on November 21st, 2002 12:13 AM:

Casey,

Tripod, as well as others, do not allow image hosting to outside sources. Just post the link to the image, not the image itself.

Thanks!

__________________
Bo Carlson

Have you ever felt the need
To see more than you can see
Look into uncertainty
Reflections of treachery
Would you leave the world behind
Endless life is here to find
Can I interest you in lies
Sell your soul for all it buys




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Posted by jloehle on November 21st, 2002 12:19 AM:

Casey's photo is at: http://members.tripod.com/bliss_bar...s/sackcoat2.jpg

BUT, you must cut and paste the URL into your address line above, clicking on it won't work.

__________________
Joe Loehle

http://www.southernguard.org/

http://www.bullmoosedesign.com/

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Posted by C.Osgood on November 21st, 2002 12:22 AM:

Okay here comes the links

For the Greatcoat buttonhole click here http://members.tripod.com/bliss_barn/images/great7.jpg

For the Sack Coat buttonhole click here

http://members.tripod.com/bliss_bar...s/sackcoat2.jpg

__________________
Casey Osgood
The Sappers
"Essayons"

"I am now satisfied with soldiering but I did not want to see this thing
through and now I believe I have"

Jas. Morrison Co.E 149th NYSV, April 1865




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Posted by Carpetbagger on November 21st, 2002 03:56 PM:
Buttonhole pics

For those who still have trouble with the Tripod links, the same pics are available at the address posted below along with additional details from the same garments.

http://14thconnecticut.org/index.asp

__________________
Terri Olszowy



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[KKS]

basic period reference for wax

Among the list of items that the 1860 "Beadle's Dime Guide to Dressmaking" recommends for a sewing work-basket:
"A piece of wax candle, for waxing thread, is often of service" (Pullan 62).

Kira Sanscrainte
Another appreciative fan of the Chris Daley buttonhole post

[KathyBradford]

Re: Buttonhole Stitching

Thank you so much, John! I really appreciate having that resource available. We have several new members in our group, and many of them want to sew well. If exposed to too many "spider leg" buttonholes at sutlers, they might consider them their goal. It's so helpful to be able to refer them to detailed directions. Along with the other sewing references mentioned, they should have a complete resource.

The comments below Chris' reminded me again just how much great information was on the old site. Thank you for restoring that valuable piece.

Did anyone else save anything of that caliber?

With much appreciation,