Sewing jacket facings together

[Devildog0311]

Gents,
I am assembling a jacket and I am stuck on the portion where I attach the facings together. I am unsure how to accomplish this. I think I am supposed to whipstitch it, I don't know another way to do this. I looked at a jacket I own and the stitching on it seems tight. I'm confused about how to make this happen. I also have a portion at the bottom of the jacket where the liner meets the body, I assume it would need to be done the same way? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Justin Connor

[rmilstead]

Re: Sewing jacket facings together

Justin,
What type of jacket? The answer to your question will depend upon what type you are copying/reproducing because patterns and methods of assembly differ,
Dick Milstead

[Tyler Underwood]

Re: Sewing jacket facings together

Lets assume that that the jacket you are making has a bagged lining like a CD or RD.

When attaching the facings you will start with aligning the facing to the edge of the lining with the right sides together.

Use a backstitch and attach the facing to the lining. Turn right sides out, and press the seam allowance towards the lining.

Once this has been completed on each side and you are ready to attach the lining to body. You will start by pinning the right sides together and sew around the entire edge of the jacket. Once this is complete the jacket will be turned out through the arm scythe. (Right sides out) The end result will be that the facings are attached with a backstitch on each side and a row of top stitching after the sleeves are set.

[Silas]

Re: Sewing jacket facings together

If only you had posted this one day earlier. I'm sewing a sack coat right now and did that very process last night entirely on my trusty Singer foot treadle. I could have photographed the step by step method I use on all my garments as there is a way to sew them without any hand sewing.

[Silas]

Sewing jacket facings together

Here is what I sewed last night.



Rather than seeing the usual two fabrics and the interlining, you see three fabrics and the interlining. I use burlap for interlinings as it is light weight, stiff and inexpensive. Having seen it used on some originals, I use it, too. To make a double lining, I sew a layer of fabric to my lining before I commence assembly of my coats/jackets. Here, I sewed a layer of heavy cotton to the wool lining. Using a double lining allows me to add a simple watch pocket by creating a slit pocket opening then sewing some of the double lining together. Tada! Practically an instant, easy to make pocket. Location for this watch pocket is directly behind the standard pocket I'll later sew when I combine the outside fabric to the inside double layer.

Using this same method, I made another, much larger pocket with the double linings on the right side of the coat. What can I say? I like having many useful pockets inside the coats and jackets I sew.

As I create the standard pocket, I'll post some photos showing the completed standard pocket with interior watch pocket plus how I got there.

[rmilstead]

Re: Sewing jacket facings together

Tyler,

Not to confuse the issue but at least in the RD world there are variations in how the facings are attached and how the lining attached to the main body. Your description is consistent with the directions that, at least CRC, provides for making these jackets and are appropriate for the way many of the originals were done. However, over the last two years I have been studying and photographing a number of RCB jackets and gathering photos of a few others as a kind of personal research project. Not all were assembled in that way. As is noted on Dan Wambaugh's web sight, the G P Bryan jacket (type 2) and two others (type 3s) that I have studied (E.F. Barnes and G. W. Wilson) have linings that extend underneath the facing which is overcast (whip) stitched down. Also the Tolson jacket (type 3) may have originally been done that way but since the lining was removed and replaced during the War it is difficult to say for sure, However, the facings on that jacket are now secured to the lining with overcast stitching as well. I have also seen differences in how the lining/facing assembly is joined to the body shell. These observations are based upon study of 11 jackets attributed to the Richmond Clothing Bureau between late 1862 and the end of 1864 in both public and private collections along the East Coast.

Silas,

Not to point out the quote that you have beneath your signature line but while your technique sounds neat and is clearly innovative, have you ever seen that technique in an original? More to the point as I say above sometimes the methods of assembly were may have been subject to "seamstress choice " variations but except for clothing made at home or perhaps tailor made Commutation clothing "one off" assembly variations are difficult to justify in the Depot environment. For people who go "crazy" if the vendor markings and inspector stamps are incorrect how do we justify personal choice in assembly of the clothing? It is either how they did it or it isn't.

Dick Milstead
Hardaway's Alabama Battery
Tha Company of Military Historians

[Silas]

Re: Sewing jacket facings together

Everyone has their thing which is THE THING most important in their hobby. I'm not one of those people who shows up at events and talks about my latest purchase from Uber Kewl Vendor X. I'm more substance over form. I don't go crazy over vendor markings or inspector stamps which no one sees. I find them interesting, but the proper number of dots or color of same isn't high on my priority list as it is on the lists of other people.

I used to create my jackets and coats then add field modifications. Problem is that this method adds a lot of extra time. Tons easier to plan for them while making the jacket than after it's done. For example, I made a Tait jacket for Sailor's Creek last year. It was a blue Tait with blue collar and epaulettes. Since the impression was red Tait, I added red afterwards so it would be more like the original coats of the brigade. (Soldiers were issue red to add to collar and epaulettes.) I don't ever envision taking off the red I added afterward even though I can. Is it more correct? Yes. How much do I gain by this being that correct? Since the benefit didn't exceed the burden, I have to say, "not much."

As for the coat pictured here, all modifications are interior. None are exterior. This coat will look like everyone else's sack except it's double lined, has a solid place for a watch on one side and contains a B.A.P. (Big A__ Pocket) on the other side. Oh, yes, there is another thing. I double sew all my interior seams except for my shoulder seams which I triple sew. Is it period correct? No. Will it last? Yes. I make a coat or jacket with the intent of not having to make another one for several years. Having garments which has a little extra functionality is a plus.

[Tyler Underwood]

Re: Sewing jacket facings together

Thanks for sharing your findings Dick!
You are correct, that the method I discriebed is one of several ways to construct the jacket. (I probably should have stated that in my post.)
Since these jackets were made by various individuals that were hired to do the job, no two jackets would have been alike. The end result would be based upon the persons capabilities and their personal style of construction.
Side note, do you happen to have photos of the jackets you examined? I would very much enjoy seeing the different methods.

[rmilstead]

Re: Sewing jacket facings together

Silas,
It appears I struck a sensitive nerve. I am sorry for that!
Basically, I agree each of us has a "thing", as you put it, that we a fanatical about and areas which we are less so. My point in this case is not how you described doing the job, just that it should be clear whether the technique is based upon a period example or is your own innovation. You have now been clear. Some other very knowledgeable and serious living historians and scholars that I know also tend to take a few "shortcuts" that save time or produce better results when they are not visible in use. I have found with growing older, my own tendency to do so has become greater. I have no doubt you know how it was done originally and have done that at times as well. The key points I was making are that, first of all, many "authentic campaigners" have become anal about details that never show just because and, second, in giving advice one should differentiate between what is period "correct" and what is done for convenience or because it is easier. It is just that, to use a much more typical example, how many "experts" will quickly "pan" a garment in which the long seams were machine sewn (treadle or electric) rather than hand stitched when no one can tell when they are being worn without spreading the seams and looking with a magnifying glass. This despite the fact that many original garments, including some Confederate, were partially or completely machine sewn.
Again sorry if my "gentle" attempt to point this out didn't come across as intended. No disrespect ment.

Tyler,

Yes I do have a great number of personally taken photos, generally not professional quality but very high resolution (i.e. big jpg files). Far too many to post them here. It is ultimately my hope to put this material together as some type of manuscript or manuscripts. I am currently in the process of doing at least one article for possible publication in the Company Journal and two or three others are in some state of planning. Unfortunately, from what I am told these may take several years to actually be published. I have been exploring other avenues to publish the material including selected pictures but nothing firm as yet. I also still hope to document a number of additional examples before finally summarizing the results of all of this.

Dick Milstead
Hardaway's Alabama Battery
The Company of Military Historians