Sack coats - the Quarter Master manual dimensions

[eddie2436]

Hello People,
I am embarking on making a basic contract sack coat as those available in the UK seem to bear little resemblance to the coats I have seen discussed here !

Import duties, taxes and carriage prohibit me getting one from the US. I have acquired Period Impressions pattern and made up a mock coat out of scrap cloth and it is way to big all over and the dimensions seem dubious. I would point out that though I am a newbie to ACW kit , I have made a lot of uniform kit for other re-enactment periods and have a reasonable level of competency in sewing. I am looking at adapting this pattern in line with photo's of originals and guided by previous Posts on this Forum..

The QM manual gives 4 sizes but I need help to interpret some of the dimensions please :

Collar 8" thru to 10" - who has a 10 " neck size ? period photos show the collar around the neck.

Sleeve length 32" thru to 35" - this seems way too long - my external sleeve length is just 25" ? ?

Sleeve dimensions at wrist, elbow and armpit would be helpful !

Are there any images of the rear view of an original contract sack coat ?

Is there a centre seam or none?


I would be grateful for any advice

Paul Edwards

[Tyler Underwood]

Re: Sack coats - the Quarter Master manual dimensions

Hi Paul,
Check out this website there are a lot of great photos of originals. www.cwquartermaster.com

[Jeremy Bevard]

Re: Sack coats - the Quarter Master manual dimensions

I can help but little however this also brings you back into the "what's new"!

On the fit keep in mind these were meant to be loose fitting. Unlike a frock or many other coats in earlier time periods. It is a work coat so you need room to move. If I remember correctly the sleeve is also longer than what we would do on a modern coat today.

[floridawar]

Re: Sack coats - the Quarter Master manual dimensions

Collar 8" thru to 10" - who has a 10 " neck size ? period photos show the collar around the neck.
Sleeve length 32" thru to 35" - this seems way too long - my external sleeve length is just 25" ? ?
Sleeve dimensions at wrist, elbow and armpit would be helpful !

Hello Paul,

the 35 inch sleeve length would be from the center of the back to the cuff, and includes the width of the back piece. the length of the collar probably refers to the length of one collar (or one half of the finished collar) which would make a finished collar of ca. 15-in. to about 19-inches (assuming quarter inch seams). I might recommend you look up some of the tailoring book reprints by R.L. Shep publishing, including his reprint of Devere (1866) or his Civil War volume for more on period tailoring terms, etc. Also, Compaing and Devere's Tailor's guide of 1856 is interesting on the subject:

http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/h/hearth/browse/title/4399907.html

"graduated measures" are needed to draft these patterns as shown.

cheers,

Archie Marshall.

[eddie2436]

Re: Sack coats - the Quarter Master manual dimensions

Thank you Gentlemen.
The images of originals in CW Quarter master I am aware of - very useful. As to the size of the coat I know it was loose fitting and that there were 4 standard sizes - I am an average size guy and chest wise 43" so even I am outside the range of those supplied at the time which were up to 42" chest. The pattern I bought I made up for a chest size of 44" but it is at least 50" and the sleeves far too wide - hence my need to adapt it. The collar is the wrong width.
Archie your information and link is very helpful indeed and goes some way to explaining the sleeve length and collar size in the QM manual. The link to the tailoring guide will make interesting reading.
I cannot source Mckee's article on line. Nor have I seen Pat Brown's book. Do either of these include a pattern ?

Back seams - what is the 'normal' accepted ? With or without?

Bottom front edge of the coat - some period photographs so a very rounded edge - others almost square. Does anywhere exist a set of images of separate contractor coats in order to identify them?