Jefferson Bootees (US)

[csa63]

Well, I'm back, with another request for direction. Topic: US Jefferson Bootees/Brogans. I searched through the forums, all I could find as far as approved vendors was Jersey Skilley Licker and Orchard Hill. Since neither of those exist anymore, where is the go to now? I saw a mention of Mattimore. Is that the only one? And if so, the only sewn-sole shoe they sell states the primary issued shoe of '64-'64. What about early war? Were they all pegged sole? Thanks for any insight!

[MarkTK36thIL]

Re: Jefferson Bootees (US)

1. Jersey Skillet Licker was supplied from Nich $ekel@. He's making some really nice brogans now.
2. Cody Mobley can be contacted on facebook about brogans, but I'm not sure if he does Federal or just CS.
3. Missouri Boot and Shoe is still making good ones.

The 36th Illinois was issued sewn soled brogans early in the war (61/62).

[Ambrose Bierce]

Re: Jefferson Bootees (US)

Lederarsenal, too.

Six to seven month wait, however. He does deliver on time if you plan accordingly.

[Haversack]

Re: Jefferson Bootees (US)

I have a pair of the $ekel@ sewn sole brogans that retail for $130 through Regimental Quartermaster. They look excellent and are the most comfortable pair of reenacting footwear I have ever owned, however I think the sole will wear through rather quickly due to the fact that it is a single layer. His pegged offerings retail for around $180 and have double layer soles, so those may be sturdier. I also own shoes from Robert Land (Marinos still had a few pair of his shoes and boots in various styles when I was in Gettysburg about a month ago) and Missouri Boot & Shoe, and am pleased with both. A friend of mine has a pair of Lederarsenal brogans that I was able to check out, and they are spectacular. I would get a pair myself if I didn't already have more pairs than I really need. No matter who you go with, I would definitely recommend purchasing shoes new so that they can form to your foot and wear pattern. I have had good luck with purchasing some Missouri Boot & Shoe footwear second hand that fit fairly well, and have purchased others made by them second hand that I was unable to wear due to the fact that they were made for someone else's foot. Sorry to ramble on, I hope you've found this info to be helpful.

[redneckrebel1861]

Re: Jefferson Bootees (US)

The original M1851 Jefferson Bootee was completely hand sewn. If a US or CS military bootee has the soles sewn by machine they are not authentic, as the Goodyear welt system came out in the 1890s. Southern and northern shoes and boots if sewn by machine were sewn with a chain stitch. There was no heavy duty lock stitch machines at the time. The red top linings in boots were done with leather stitchers such as the Bradbury and other types.

The only boot and shoe maker making 100% perfect boots, shoes and brogans is JesseLee Cantrell. After years of being swamped with orders is now working at his own pace with stock items and is doing the only completely hand stitched CW footwear. He uses CW period lasts and his machines are all CW to 1870's period.

They cost a lot, but the quality and authenticity is worth it.

Adam Smith, redneckrebel1861

[Dbackfed]

Re: Jefferson Bootees (US)

I bought a pair from him but the treatment of the leather on the outside dried the leather out so much they were in rough shape after a couple events. I ended up selling them to a guy who used them on a display.

[teufelhund]

Re: Jefferson Bootees (US)

Where is JesseLee Cantrell selling these days? I've tried to find his old website with no luck. Doesn't look like he is active on Facebook too much either.