Sewing Richmond Depot Trousers

[LibertyHallVols]

Step 1: Sew facings to the pocket.
Here the facings are blue wool and the pocket bag is white cotton drill.

After basting the facings to the pocket bag, I tape off with masking tape so that my stitches are of uniform depth, allowing me to focus on getting a uniform stitch count.

I use a blanket stitch to attach the facing to the bag. I favor this method, especially if the trousers are made from jean cloth or other wool:cotton blend as it prevents fraying, much like a button hole stitch.

Here is a close-up as I pull the needle through:


Pulling the thread tight to complete the stitch:


A look at the whole piece:

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Re: Sewing Richmond Depot Trousers

Step 2: Attach pockets to trouser fronts at the notched area. 1/4" seam allowance.

Pin or baste the pocket in-place with the "good" (the sides that'll show) sides together. I use a backstitch here so I get a good finish when I turn and press in the next step.

What's a backstitch?
It is an interlocking stitch, which means if the thread breaks while wearing the garment, you don't lose the whole seam. Also, a running stitch results in a "saw-tooth" as you press the finished seam... I don't want that! ;)

Here's how you do a backstich:

Needle goes in...

In this pic, I am inserting the needle at the end of the row of stitching. It is a little hard to see which is the needle and which is the thread. Lemme know if you have trouble seeing what's going on.

Needle comes out...


Here is the finished piece from the cotton-side of the equation:


Here is the finished piece viewed from the other side:

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Sewing Richmond Depot Trousers

Step 3: "Turn and Press"

OK, there's a little bit that goes into the simple instruction "turn and press". What this means is, you are have sewing two pieces with their right-sides together (it is inside-out) and you need to turn it right-side out and press the piece flat.

If the piece has corners (as this trouser pocket does), first you need to trim the piece before turning.

Here is a photo of the pocket, trimmed in preparation for turning:


Notice that outside corners are cut across the angle, close to (BUT NOT THROUGH!!!) the stitching. Inside corners are "snipped" at the corner right up to (NOT THROUGH!!) the stitching.

Step 4:
Close the pocket bags - I use a backstitch for this again. 1/4" seam allowance.

Step 5:
Turn and press the pocket bags. Topstitch the pocket bag 1/8" from the edge. Again, I use a backstitch for this. Your pockets take a lot of abuse, so I like to use a sturdy stitch.

Step 6:
Hand topstitch the pocket flap (this is the "mule ear") 1/4" from the edge. I use a backstitch for a nice finished look. However, a straight (or running) stitch is fine for this, also.

Here is a picture showing the finished pockets from both inside and ouside of the trousers:


Note the heart-shaped topstitching on the pocket flap:
I am making officer's trousers. Omit this stitching for enlisted trousers.

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Sewing Richmond Depot Trousers

Step 7 & 8:
Attaching the button-fly to the right front and the fly facing to the left front. Here is a picture of those pieces pinned in-place. I have placed the appropriate pattern pieces next to the corresponding trouser parts for clarity.


Again, I use a backstitch for this as the seam presses nicely when done, compared to a straight stitch.

Here is the button fly sewn in-place and pressed (the pins are holding the lining in-place:


Here is the fly facing sewn in place:


In order to press this piece into place, it is necessary to clip the seam at the notch an additional 1/4" (right to the stitching) in order to get the facing to lay properly against the trouser front.

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Sewing Richmond Depot Trousers

Here's a link to the album of photos...

http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii301/LibertyHallVols/Civil%20War/

Someday I'll complete these instructions!