Cleaning Gear

[Bill Cross]

Is there an antidote?

the point of the story is, too much neatsfoot is a bad idea on leather, and I can prove it.

Having come from the period when neatsfoot oil was THE method for treating leather, is there some way to reverse the effects of too much? If the leather dries and is left alone for awhile, will it "get better"?

[Vuhginyuh]

Re: Is there an antidote?

Having come from the period when neatsfoot oil was THE method for treating leather, is there some way to reverse the effects of too much? If the leather dries and is left alone for awhile, will it "get better"?

Yes, that works.

[Vuhginyuh]

Re: Cleaning Gear

I have never seen original leather artifact that looked like it had a modern petrolium based shoe polish on it.
QUOTE]


I have used Kiwi polish on my dress shoes for years and after reading this I called them and asked. I was told there is no petroleum used in there shoe polish.

Here is there customer service # 1-800-392-7733.

If it is not a petroleum base why not use it on your gear?

Wes.

Ok then, I have never seen original leather with modern polish.
That is and will be my stand, period vs modern...this should not be an issue on an authentic forum.

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Cleaning Gear

Hallo Kameraden!

"Pending what you are using, you can be looking at ruining more than your historic aspect of your leather gear. Polishes can rub off on clothing."

Which is why belting was blackened on one side only... :-)
But the practice of applying blacking/blackening is a period practice- such as the aftermath of Hiram Berdan's court-martial in 1863 when one Sharpshooter wrote:

"The boys are blackening their belts and boots. Old Berdan makes the men slick up."

Regarding oil soaked leathers... Not a Period Practice.... but, they can be wrapped in newspaper which will absorb and wick some of the excess oil out, or "buried" in kitty litter (which will absorb and wick some of the excess oil out). Some say a gentle "washing" with saddle soap" will carry off some of the oil but I have never tried it (an ddo not want someone screwing up their accoutrements because I mentioned it... ;-))

I say quit worrying about it, and let the Government give you a new one next reissuance time. :-)

Curt-Heinrich Schmidt

[Vuhginyuh]

Re: Cleaning Gear

The boys are blackening their belts and boots.

I'll further the drift...what was this blackening compound?

Is it a charcoal or carbon based pigment?

Charcoal in a vegetable grease or wax is very stable and resistant to fading.

Carbon can run silvery to black

If it is anything a’kin to or as simple as black pigment and yellow wax? If so it will address the original question and put the shoe polish thing to bed too.

[RockCityGuard]

Re: Cleaning Gear

The Health & Environment Resource Center @ http://www.herc.org lists the active ingredients of Kiwi Shoe Polish.
KIWI BRANDS -- SHOE POLISH
MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET
KIWI BRANDS AS OF January 1999
NSN: 793000N036510
Manufacturer's CAGE: 1GT09
Part No. Indicator: A
Part Number/Trade Name: SHOE POLISH
Ingredient: STODDARD SOLVENT
Ingredient: AROMATIC PETROLEUM DISTILLATES; (HEAVY NAPHTHA)
Ingredient: M-PHENYLENEDIAMINE, 4-(PHENYLAZO)-; (SOLVENT ORANGE #3 DYE)
Ingredient: SOLVENT RED 49 DYE
Ingredient: BENZENE, 1,2,4-TRIMETHYL-; (1,2,4-TRIMETHYLBENZENE) (SARA III)

“The company manufacturing the polish was set up as far back as 1906 by the Scotsman William Ramsey who named the product after his New Zealand wife. Kiwi first produced the boot polish in Australia before expanding to the UK in 1911.” (www.design-technology.org/kiwi.htm)

[Djarnagin]

Re: Cleaning Gear

I called Paul Angelus of Angelus Shoe Polish and he said all modern shoe polishes contain petroleum distillates. This is done to replace turpentine from the original formula due to expense. I learned something today myself and will no longer recommend it.

Most polishes of the time were made of a combination of three ingredients
Carnauba wax
Bees wax
Tallow
Of course a coloring agent, this will be a natural pigment. The exact mix of these ingredients can vary depending on how hard you want the wax. You will need to work at it in order to get a high shine.

There is another product that will do the same job and it is all natural. Royel beeswax dressing from Bee Natural LeatherCare. http://www.beenaturalleathercare.com/

They did polish leather there is both historical documentation and surviving original examples. I have written evidence where polish was purchased from England. We also have some original examples in my collection with evidence of polish. We have found evidence of polish on hemlock tanned leather. It was polished to keep the color black and to help preserve the grain surface. Hemlock bark tanned leather would turn brown and would not hold the black color.

I have seen one boot blacking formula that use neats foot oil, carnauba wax and lamp black. This one was a liquid blackening and not a paste like shoe polishes.

Most originals that I have examined that have been polished were only done on the front flap and the ends. This makes the most sense since these areas will see the most wet/dry conditions in the field. The average person at the time of the Civil War knew far more than we do about leather preservation. Leather was used in every day life and they depended on it for almost all areas where a strong material was required so great care was taken to keep it in good working condition.

Lamp black is listed in formulas for making waxed leather.

When oiling you must remember that a little goes a long way. As Mr Watson stated, oils need to be used judiciously. You can remove excess oil from leather with soap. Soaps have a PH that is too high for vegetable tanned leather, so here again a little is good and a lot is bad. After washing heavily you would have to correct the PH back down where it should and replace the lost tannins. This is not an easy process and it would take time, experience, and patience.

Here is a little trivia the original spelling of Neats foot oil was two word and not one as we use it today.
If you are going to use pure neats foot oil, it should be cold pressed oil. This pressing should be done at 30 degrees.

Mold on leather: Laying leather in the sun will dry out the mold, but if it becomes moist again it will return. Do not use bleach on leather at all. White vinegar is fine the PH is right, but will it destroy the mold is unknown.

[Richmond Depot]

Re: Cleaning Gear

This interesting information was sent to me Via David Jarnagin.



Entry 21 Box 202n/T-7 Date: 2 January 1854 From/To: Thornton, New York Arsenal, to Craig



I have the honor herewith to enclose, a copy of Major W.W. Morris report, respecting the trial of Morders Waterproof Blacking.

**Enclosure with above letter, Date: 31 December 1854 From/To: Major W.W. Morris, 4th Arty, Fort Hamilton, New York, to Major Thornton, New York Arsenal**



Morders Waterproof Blacking is a failure, not suitable for accoutrements when in the hands of men. In cold weather it cracks the leather, and in warm weather becomes too pliable, & receives the nap from the clothes and other substances.

A true copy. Signed W.A. Thornton



Entry 21 Box 201n/M-285 Date: 18 December 1854 From/To: Mordecai, Washington Arsenal, to Craig



I have given such trial as I can here to Mr. Griffith's blacking which was sent with your letter of Nov 20th.

It seems to have a very good effect on leather in softening & protecting it from damp; but the harness maker thinks that in this respect it is no better than good neatsfoot oil, or other applications which we now use; & this blacking, or rather the lampblack in it, rubs off so easily as to render it unfit for use on harness or Military accoutrements, on account of soiling everything which it touches. The letters accompanying yours are herewith returned.

**1st enclosure with above letter (G-170)--Date: 11 November 1854 From/To: Mr. J.B. Griffith, Columbus, Ohio, to Craig**



If you please, sir, I wish you would give my blacking a fair test, try it yourself on your Boots & Harness and I think you will find by using it that it would be very beneficial for the soldiers in the land service. Likewise the cannon harness and straps also it has been used at the armory in this place on the Harness and has proved very beneficial to soften and make it turn water besides the rats will not disturb a piece of leather with it on. It appears they would about as soon eat the guns as any thing the blacking is on, the bills on the inside of the lids is for the Harness. I mentioned on my bills to mix about a pint of oil I think clean sperm is the best it is merely to thin it so it can be put on more easy in it present state it is right for boots & shoes.

P.S. If it was so I could be there to show you how it operated. I should be very glad as for good references I could find you any amount as to its quality.



**2nd enclosure with above letter (A-204)--Date: 24 October 1854 From/To: Gen. S.W. Andrews, QrMs Office, Columbus, Ohio, to Craig**



While I was in Washington in the month of July last for the purpose of drawing the public arms due the State of Ohio, I took occasion to mention to you, that a friend of mine was the inventer and manufacturer of a superior kind of Blacking, to be used upon shews [sic-shoes] harness, carriage tops and all sorts of leather; and that he wished to become a contractor with your Department for such as might be needed; and for the purpose of testing its superior quality, he sent to you, by me, several boxes of the article prepared for Shews & boots, which I informed you I had with me, and at your suggestion I left them at "Browns Hotel" in a package directed to you.

My friend has requested me to write to you on the subject, and ascertain if you received the boxes left at "Browns" and if so, whether you have tested the article enough to know whether it is useful in your Department. I have taken this much trouble for him, because I believe that his invention is a useful article; and because from his straightened circumstances he has been unable to go into the manufacture of the article to any considerable extent. If he had a reliable contract to furnish it by the quantity his friends would assist him in doing so.

I will state that I have used the article upon all the leather part of accoutrements and harness in the Arsenal of this state, and find it superior to anything els [sic-else].

I should be pleased to get your attention upon this matter, so far as to test the article fairly, and if it is such as will be useful, to give my friend an opportunity to furnish it.

If you did not receive the boxes, I will take the trouble to send you two or three more.

J.B. Griffith is the name of the inventor and manufacturer.