Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

[privstull]

Hello pards,

My question is on the subject of the underarm sleeve gussets for Federal issued shirts. After having the gussets cut out, what is the best way to attach them to the shirt? Would you use overcasting, a running stitch, or some other type of stitch to attach these. I am trying to get this shirt right but just can't get these sleeve gussets in. I would be much obliged to any help or advice. Thanks.

[Jeffrey Przewozniak]

Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

Eallo Ryan,

If you're talking about the 1851 pattern domet flannel issue shirt, I have found that the gussets are to be sewn and felled like all the other seams on the shirt.

Definitely check out these:

http://pcalloway.tripod.com/articles/shirts.html

Nelson, Dean, Military Collector and Historian, The Union "Army Standard Size and Make" shirt, Page 110, Vol. XLVII, No.3 Fall, 1995, Washington, D.C.

If I can help, just PM me and I'll be happy to help. I am in earnest,

[privstull]

Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

thankyou for your response. what is the easiest way of attaching these? would you attach the gusset to the sleeve first before sewing it onto the main section of the shirt or some other way? now that i know the correct stitch to use, i cannot figure out how to attach them and make them even on both sides.

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

would you attach the gusset to the sleeve first before sewing it onto the main section of the shirt ...?

Yep! That's how I've done it.

[fidlr1]

Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

thankyou for your response. what is the easiest way of attaching these? would you attach the gusset to the sleeve first before sewing it onto the main section of the shirt or some other way? now that i know the correct stitch to use, i cannot figure out how to attach them and make them even on both sides.

Try this: sew one edge of the gusset to one edge of the sleeve seam, right sides together, even with the end of the sleeve (armscye end). If you lay this assembly flat, it looks like a rectangle with a square sticking up at one corner. Next, (again, right sides together) allow for the wrist slit & sew the sleeve seam, when you reach the gusset, just continue sewing right up the edge sticking out 'til you reach the end. This is as clear as I can describe it..

finished should look like this: ______________________
>------------------------
(sorta) ______________________

Armscye Cuff

Then just fell the seams. Gusset is now part of the "sleeve assembly"
ready to be joined to the shirt body. Hope this is helpful!

[fidlr1]

Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

Try this: sew one edge of the gusset to one edge of the sleeve seam, right sides together, even with the end of the sleeve (armscye
finished should look like this: ______________________
>------------------------
(sorta) ______________________

Armscye Cuff

Then just fell the seams. Gusset is now part of the "sleeve assembly"
ready to be joined to the shirt body. Hope this is helpful!

Arrgh--tried to draw a picture & it didn't quite come out right--sorry!

[RyanBWeddle]

Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

What pattern are you working from?

They should have instructions on how the shirt is to be constructed.

[privstull]

Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

its a pattern from one of my pards that was made from an original federal issued shirt awhile back. the directions are very vague and therefore i am using the pattern and original shirts i have seen to construct the shirt. i believe i have a better idea of how to put the gussets in now. thankyou all for your responses.

[RyanBWeddle]

Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

its a pattern from one of my pards that was made from an original federal issued shirt awhile back. the directions are very vague and therefore i am using the pattern and original shirts i have seen to construct the shirt. i believe i have a better idea of how to put the gussets in now. thankyou all for your responses.

Sounds like a very cool and interesting project!

I prefer County Cloth's pattern of the M1851 Saroni Contract shirt.

Good luck.

[Masked Battery]

Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

Ryan (not Weddle)-- You're in High Point, right? I'm in Winston-Salem. I can show you how to do it.

Neal

[privstull]

Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

Neal, thankyou for your offer. As of this Friday I will be moving to TN and therefore am in the process of moving right now. I regret that I had not started on this shirt earlier because you would have been of great help. Thanks again for your offer.