Are brown accouterments, as a full set, authentic? If so, who was more likely to used them(I know the south but, what regiment or company etc.), and in what time frame?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Brown Accouterments
Collapse
X
-
Re: Brown Accouterments
Originally posted by reb48Are brown accouterments, as a full set, authentic? If so, who was more likely to used them(I know the south but, what regiment or company etc.), and in what time frame?
Welcome to our forum.
A couple of points. First, yours is a is question which is asked, with minor variations, quite often here. Fortunately, we are blessed here at the A-C with a very good "search" function. A search conducted using the term "oiled leather accouterments" turned up this thread which should help answer your question.
Here's the scoop on Confederate oiled leather accouterments
Finally, this question probably should have been posted in the "camp of instruction" folder.
Cordially,
-
Re: Brown Accouterments
Originally posted by K BartschSir,
Welcome to our forum.
A couple of points. First, yours is a is question which is asked, with minor variations, quite often here. Fortunately, we are blessed here at the A-C with a very good "search" function. A search conducted using the term "oiled leather accouterments" turned up this thread which should help answer your question.
Here's the scoop on Confederate oiled leather accouterments
Finally, this question probably should have been posted in the "camp of instruction" folder.
Cordially,
Keith, thanks for digging out that informative thread. The only thing I would like to add is with regards to the Magee and George accouterments, for anyone considering that particular set. I recall talking with Tom Czekanski several years ago and he mentioned that there was no historical precedent for the reproduction of these accouterments in natural or oiled leather. Apparently "early-war" production quality control was such that these were issued black. Bearing in mind the short-lived nature of the firm-- operations being moved and consolidated before the fall of 'Nawlins in April 1862-- this would not seem to be that much of a stretch. There is a picture of a M&G cap box done in nautral leather in one of the ACW "Men at Arms" series books. Unfortunately, this is another of the reproduction pieces so often seen in that series (it appears to be from Jarnagin) and only tends to add to the confusion on the subject. Anyway, I hope this is also of help. Thanks.
Rich CroxtonLast edited by Gallinipper; 08-01-2004, 04:05 PM.Rich Croxton
"I had fun. How about you?" -- In memory of Charles Heath, 1960-2009
Comment
-
Re: Brown Accouterments
Mr. Gilbert,
a commonly used black dye of the period was made of iron filings, vinegar, and logwood. The iron filings quickly oxidize (rust) when they come into contact with the vinegar. The logwood serves to give the black a richer color. This dye can be easily made using steel wool (not soap pads but steel wool used in sanding; it can be had from most hardware stores. You can also use steel dust from any automotive center that turns brake drums) and household vinegar.
With exposure to the sun and air through time this natural dye stuff will fade to a dark rich brown color. This can happen in as short a time as a few weeks. I use period stuffing (tallow and neats foot oil) to oil all of my leather. I have found that when oiling leather thus tanned it will initially darken to almost black but within a few days it quickly returns to the brown color. I suspect that most of the period accoutrements that appear brown today were initially black and quickly oxidized to brown. Most of the brown repro. stuff on the market is dyed brown by the maker and it looks it. There's really no substitute for the real thing. Good Luck,
Chuck Winchester
Critter Coy.
Comment
-
Re: Brown Accouterments
To piggy-back on the post of Mr. Winchester here is a recipe for re-blacking leather goods as found in Rules for the Management and Cleaning of the Rifle Musket, Model 1863. "Brush them (accoutrements) with a hard brush to clean the surface; if they are very greasy, use a wire scratch-brush, then with a soft brush or sponge apply the following mixture, viz: one gallon of soft water, two pounds of extract of logwood, half a pound of broken nut galls, boiled until the logwood is dissolved; when cold, add half a pint of the pyrolignite of iron- made by dissolving iron filings in pyroligneous acid, as much as the acid will take up. The dye thus prepared should be well stirred and then left to settle. When clear decant it from the sediment and keep well corked for use. The addition of the logwood is not essential; and a solution of copperas may replace, but not so well, the acetate of iron."Rich Taddeo
Shocker Mess
"Don't do it, you're going to get hurt." Jerry Stiles @ Sky Meadows moments before I fell and broke my leg.
Comment
Comment