Cotton Batting/Padding

[tmdreb]

I've got a couple sewing projects that call for a padded chest using cotton batting. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find any. All the stuff in the local fabric stores has at least some synthetic content, and I am unaware of any other source. Does anyone here know of any?

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Cotton Batting/Padding

You should be able to find cotton batting at your local or on-line quilt shop. One popular brand is Warm and Natural (natural color) or Warm and White (white). Do an on-line search for cotton quilt batting and you should find several sources.

What are you working on? I'm not as familiar with military uniforms, but most of the civilian garments I've examined with padding in the chest use wool batting. I'd be interested in your documentation for the use of cotton batting - possibly a geographical preference?

[tmdreb]

Re: Cotton Batting/Padding

I'm working on the Homespun Patterns military style vest. Apparently, the one it's copied from has a padded chest. I'd also like to make a repro of a CS jacket on display at Mansfield, LA, which has a padded chest as well.

The Warm and Natural I've seen in stores has a fabric content of 87.5% cotton to 12.5% synthetic, or at least it says that on the label. I'd prefer to use 100% cotton if I can get it.

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Cotton Batting/Padding

Phil,

I looked on the label of the piece of Warm and Natural I have and it says 100% cotton. It's "old stock" from several years ago (I don't use it very often), so I don't know if the manufacturer changed the fiber composition in the intervening years or if they make it in two variations: all-cotton and cotton-petroleum byproduct. :)

I've not worked with the Homespun military style vest pattern. Padded chests are very common in vests, but does the pattern document the use of cotton batting specifically? Of all the original civilian vests I've examined, even the most lightweight summer vests with removable padding have been wadded with wool. Wool batting is easier to manipulate when tailoring and is actually cooler than cotton batting in warm weather. I'd be very interested in any documentation you'd be willing to share on the use of cotton batting. One of the topics on my long list of items to research further is the possible variation in construction and tailoring techniques between military and civilian garments.

[Hank Trent]

Re: Cotton Batting/Padding

I've had trouble finding batting thin enough. There's not much in the way of stores locally where I can go in and actually feel a variety of batting. Can you recommend a brand of wool batting that's thin enough to build up in layers so the edges can be tapered? I'm thinking about something that's about half the thickness of the Warm and Natural or less.

Hank Trent
hanktrent@voyager.net

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Wool Batting

Hank,

I don't have the wrapper off the piece of wool batting I currently have. I get mine at Needle and Thread (717-334-4011, closed Tuesday and Sunday). I'll try and get the brand name from them and post it here.

This particular brand of batting has a fair amount of loft (thickness). But you can separate it into thin layers by just peeling it apart. I've been able to separate mine down to 1/4 of its original thickness. The density of the thinner layers will vary slightly across the piece, but that's not really a problem. If a particular spot is a little too thin, just layer another thin layer over top of that area. And the slight unevenness has no effect on construction or the finished appearance of the garment. I can then 're-build' the padding into graduated layers for the fronts of vests or coats or bosom pads for bodices; use a single thinner layer for quilted linings in outerwear; or use the full thickness for quilted petticoats or hoods. I usually buy the largest size batt I can get; it will last me through many projects.

To get a nice fine edge on layered, shaped padding: I cut each of the layers of padding slightly larger than needed, then 'thin' the edges of each layer by pulling away a little of the batting by hand. This makes a nice smooth layered pad that fades away to 'nothing'. I noticed this method on some original summer linen vests with removable padding - no visible "padding lines" could be seen on either the outside or the inside of the garment.

[Alamo Guard]

Re: Wool Batting

You can also go to the Hnacock Fabrics website or their catalog. They have 100 percent wool batting.

[Hank Trent]

Re: Wool Batting

You can also go to the Hnacock Fabrics website or their catalog. They have 100 percent wool batting.

I tried their website, and of the 13 battings they had listed, all were cotton or polyester. :( I can try giving them a call, but how thin is their wool batting? Does it peel apart like Carolann mentioned? A google search gets me lots of places that sell 100 percent wool batting, but I can't tell the thickness. In addition to wanting to layer it, I'm needing a piece for the back of a lightweight frock coat, so I need a whole section that's very thin, not just the weight of the Warm and Natural with the edges feathered way down, but unfortunately batting seems to be marketed primarily for quilters, who need it a little thicker.

Hank Trent
hanktrent@voyager.net

[tarwater_mess]

Re: Cotton Batting/Padding

I may be able to help. I use it in both Vest and Federal Uniform Coats with very good results.

I get my 100% wool batting from a local business called Arbuckles Railroad Place in Noblesville, IN. I am not sure if they mail order, you may call them to enquire. I get my batting in 1/2 lofts 90"x108" rolls $40.00 They do cut to order. As I say I am not sure if they mail, if not, they may give you information.

You may try calling the company that makes the batting direct at

HEARTFELT
RFD 340
VINEYARD HAVEN, MA 02568
(617) 693-1583

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Wool and Cotton Batting/Padding

I did some searching on-line and found some sources for 100% wool and 100% cotton batting:

This wool batting from Bemidji Woolen Mill http://www.woolnstuff.com/purwoolquilb.html
looks very similar to the wool batting I’m currently using. The price, $17.00 for a 72”x90” batt, is a little less than what I paid for the last batt I purchased.

This shop

http://www.patchworkshop.com.au/supplies/battinginfo1.html

lists several interesting battings: Hobbs 100% Organic Cotton Batting, 100% cotton Warm and Natural, and Quilters Laine 100% Australian wool batting in natural and dark colors. The dark colored wool batt would be particularly useful for dark quilted linings, such as inside frock coats, as any bearding (little pieces of the batting being pulled to the outside along the quilting threads) would be less visible.

Hank, you might also check and see if there are any local sheep producers who raise their flocks specifically for their fleece or who process fleece for spinning, such as this one

http://www.mrsf.com/batt.htm

Many of them will also produce wool batting as it uses the fleeces that are too short for handspinning. The batts are more expensive than commercially produced versions, but you may be able to get custom thicknesses.

I’m going to be checking out some of these sources also. I’ve just learned that the wool batting Needle and Thread carried is no longer available. The source (literally a little old lady who worked at a local now-closed woolen mill and who recently passed away) is no longer available. :(

[tarwater_mess]

Re: Wool and Cotton Batting/Padding

The dark colored wool batt would be particularly useful for dark quilted linings, such as inside frock coats, as any bearding (little pieces of the batting being pulled to the outside along the quilting threads) would be less visible.

The batting should have a layer of Buchrum on top to prevent this.

Something even more rare is horse haircloth

[Hank Trent]

Re: Wool and Cotton Batting/Padding

The batting should have a layer of Buchrum on top to prevent this.

Something even more rare is horse haircloth

Thanks to everyone for all the batting suggestions. If someone has experience and can give a definite stamp of approval to the thickness of a particular brand, that would be great.

I got some horse haircloth for my first frock coat a few years ago from Gohn Brothers, and still have enough left to use for this one. It was supposed to be real horsehair, though I don't know what the cross fibers are, but it passes a burn test without melting into lumps. Don't know if they still carry it.

The bearding through wasn't a big enough problem for me to worry about it before, but would there really always be buckram between the batting and the lining? In the back, I'm thinking of using only batting quilted to the lining, and in the front, batting quilted to the lining, with canvas/haircloth/batting as needed between the quilted lining and the outer fabric. So the batting would be quilted directly to the dark lining over most of the interior of the above the waist, where it could potentially beard through. The haircloth/canvas/batting sandwich would be a separate thing sort of floating between the layers in the chest/shoulder area, attached at the edges. Does that sound right?

And then there's all those little tacking stitches under the lapels, to stiffen the canvas to the outer fabric...

Hank Trent
hanktrent@voyager.net

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Wool and Cotton Batting/Padding

Hank Trent wrote:
"The bearding through wasn't a big enough problem for me to worry about it before, but would there really always be buckram between the batting and the lining? In the back, I'm thinking of using only batting quilted to the lining, and in the front, batting quilted to the lining, with canvas/haircloth/batting as needed between the quilted lining and the outer fabric. So the batting would be quilted directly to the dark lining over most of the interior of the above the waist, where it could potentially beard through. The haircloth/canvas/batting sandwich would be a separate thing sort of floating between the layers in the chest/shoulder area, attached at the edges. Does that sound right?"

That's what I've found on several civilian coats. But I seem to recall looking at one frock that had lining/batting/silesia with all three layers quilted together before you reached the canvas/haircloth/batting sandwich. And there was one frock coat lined in alpaca that did not have the batting quilted to the lining at all - just attached at the seam lines. The alpaca had enough nap to hold the wool batting in place without shifting.

"And then there's all those little tacking stitches under the lapels, to stiffen the canvas to the outer fabric..."

Aahh - pad stitching! Just one of those little joys when you're tailoring... :)