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Austrian Lorenz Repop

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  • #91
    Re: Loyalist Arms 1854 Lorenz Is here!

    This all comes under the "For What Its Worth" category...

    Well, not too bad, they are making a good effort. One thing that we have to remember about the Lorenz is that the originals were not completely interchangeable and there were variations when it comes to cheek piece/no cheek piece and the percussion bolster and lock. The M1854 is what we have here; the bolster and lock are of that model. The M1862 has a lock and bolster form closely matching the P53 Enfield. There may be some confusion on the part of some when it comes to this but this is, overall, a pretty close approximation of the Austro-Hungarian M1854 rifle musket. Also, bear in mind that the Lorenz was a hand assembled gun with much variation from lot to lot in one arsenal/maker’s production and there can be some relatively wide variations by modern (US 1842 - 1865 production) standards. These will manifest themselves when comparing originals to each other. In other words, two people in different places, each with a good eye for proportion, can have two different originals and compare them to one of these repops and come up with entirely different opinions – one good and one bad.

    There is still one glaring problem, that being the ramrod of course. The shaft is shaped incorrectly and the brass head? Ouch, to say the least. It may be the best we can hope for and if so, there is the Rifle Shoppe who makes a good reproduction of the original, brass band and all. That beings said, will it fit in the groove and hole of this repro?

    There are some minor problems:
    (1)The rear sight appears to be a little off, but that can be fixed in later production runs, the base is the most noticeable problem and that is easy to fix in production.
    (2)The sideplate is pretty good but the location of the forward lock bolt has an extension that is a little too low – again, easy to fix in later runs.
    (3)The shape of the lock plate, hammer and bolster is good but the mating of the bolster and the lock is downright sloppy and needs to be better. Withought holding it in my hands I would say that the problem is that the front of the plate needs to move up. In other words, the shape of the parts is okay but the mortising of the lock needs to be adjusted. Fixable.
    (4)The shape of the left lock panel has been mentioned as being wrong but that is an easily fixed problem.
    (5)The shape of the cheek piece can be altered, it is off especially at the front, easily fixed.

    Good things:
    (1)The stock shape is overall pretty good.
    (2)The wood is not walnut but the grain structure and the color are reasonable.
    (3)Overall, the hardware (butt plate, trigger guard, bands) is okay. Some refining could be done but the fit and finish along with shape is certainly as good as anything we have seen out of the Italians.
    (4)A bayonet is coming. If it is a good reproduction and made of good metal so it won’t bend, or worse, snap off, then the package will be complete.
    (5)Markings are minimal with the date only shown but if other marks (inspection, proof, etc.) can be added that would be a plus, however, be careful what you wish for – too close to perfect and you start getting into what collectors and the general antique community frown on as fakes believe it or not this is a serious consideration outside of our very small and insular world.
    (6)The price – Very good if the above fixes (and maybe a few others) can be made and the price can be kept in the current ballpark.

    There will inevitably be comparisons made to the original, there should be, that is what we are all about, getting as close to “real” as we can get. With prices on original equipment rising the way they are we do a grave disservice to the past and to our pocket books by using originals in the field and we verge on silly by having to treat gear as if it is worth its weight in gold, especially in our hobby where security of our property is often non-existent when in the field at an event, no matter how big or how small. I’m not sure what the current going rate of an NRA Antique VG+ to excellent condition Lorenz is these days, but that is the condition we should be using to portray a soldier in 1863, not one in a lesser degree of condition with staining and obvious 140 year old damage and dirt accumulation. To clean and polish an original to look that way is wrong and even foolish – you will destroy its intrinsic value as a piece of history. They only option to this reproduction is to purchase the excellent parts from “The Rifle Shoppe” and make your own - the parts will only run around $800 (maybe a little more!) and if you have the skills in metal working and wood working to make a presentable piece, you will be happy. If not (they are not “snap together" kits!) you will have to find a person with the skills and pay them dearly for their work. Not only metal filing, polishing, hardening and tempering but also some minor wood carving skills and not to mention properly applying a correct 19th Century wood finish. (I've done it and it is not for everyone!) And all of the above to duplicate the skilled hand work of a proffesional armorer in Austria-Hungary whose work was inspected and passed by men whose job it was to be certain that only the best work got into the hands of the Emporer's troops. It takes skill and time... The end cost will be roughly the same as or maybe slightly more than the current original’s price. In my personal opinion (maybe not really worth much to others) I think we have a good piece here that can be used with some changes. Others may disagree... Sorry to be so long winded. :o
    Last edited by ACo.; 09-28-2006, 05:25 PM.
    Thomas Pare Hern
    Co. A, 4th Virginia
    Stonewall Brigade

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    • #92
      Re: Austrian Lorenz Repop

      How does a Loyalist Arms 1842 Springfield stand up to an original? I've just seen photos of originals and can't get a good enough view to form an opinion
      Rick Biddle
      Co. A 4th VA Stonewall Brigade
      Co. A 15th TX Texas Ground Hornets

      Minion of the Warlord

      "War is cruelty. There is no use trying to reform it. The crueler it is, the sooner it will be over" - MG William T. Sherman

      Comment


      • #93
        Re: Austrian Lorenz Repop

        Greetings:

        This is my first post, and it turns out to be regarding something "near and dear" to my impression.

        Has anyone had any experience with Loyalist Arms? What is the quality and reliability of their weapons?

        Thanks.

        Comment


        • #94
          Re: Austrian Lorenz Repop

          As I mentioned in another post on this thread, I have one of their Long Land Brown Bess muskets. It is a very fine weapon. I have never had a misfire with it yet. I have been very happy with it and with LA's customer service.
          [FONT=Times New Roman][b]Tripp Corbin[/b][/FONT]
          [URL=http://www.westernindependentgrays.org/]Western Independent Grays[/URL]
          [URL=http://www.armoryguards.org/]Armory Guards[/url]

          Comment


          • #95
            Re: Austrian Lorenz Repop

            I'm thinking of ordering one, but I think I'm going to wait and for some improvements to be made. From the sound of it I doubt we'll ever see a rifled barrel, but personally I can live without that.

            Tripp,
            We're behind so it looks like I ain't going to make it to Prelude. I was really looking foward to it. Anybody going to the Candlelight tour at Picketts Mill?
            [SIZE=3][COLOR=DarkOliveGreen][B]Howard Davis[/B][/SIZE][/COLOR]
            [I]Retired[/I]

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            • #96
              Re: Austrian Lorenz Repop

              Sorry to hear you might not make it to Prelude. Things have really come together and even if I say so myself I think it will be a darn good event. If things change and you can make it your spot will be there. I am currently planning to be at the candle light tours.
              [FONT=Times New Roman][b]Tripp Corbin[/b][/FONT]
              [URL=http://www.westernindependentgrays.org/]Western Independent Grays[/URL]
              [URL=http://www.armoryguards.org/]Armory Guards[/url]

              Comment


              • #97
                Rust removal from a worthy Lorenz

                A friend bought a rather dark model 1854 Lorenz for me at a show this past weekend in Minneapolis. After a quick look it is all there save for the ramrod and rear sight. The metal that was exposed to the elements has a "crud" on it, a crusty rust like finish, but the protected areas, underside of the barrel, is wonderfully clean.
                Aside from steel wool and hand work, or some sort of mechanical wheel (buffing), is there any chemical way to remove 140 plus years of patina without ruining the metal below?
                In outer darkness and ignorance,
                Steve Sullivan
                46th Illinois
                Co. Mil. Hist.
                CWPT

                Comment


                • #98
                  Re: Rust removal from a worthy Lorenz

                  Try Naval Jelly, I'm told that works.

                  Jeff Lawson
                  Jeff Lawson
                  2nd Vermont, Co. E

                  Comment


                  • #99
                    Re: Rust removal from a worthy Lorenz

                    Steel wool? NAVAL JELLY?? :cry_smile Do either and it won't be "worthy" any longer...
                    Yeah, both will work but if you do either the historical value goes out the window. While we all like a "purdy, shiney" gun, the collector's value of the Lorenz is in it's history evidenced by age - remove the evidence of age and you will remove a considerable amount of it's historical not to mention monetary value. If you want to clean it, then wipe the metal down with a rough rag dampened with oil and then keep it lightly oiled, nothing more. Murphy's oil soap will clean the wood but keep it to a minmum.
                    Last edited by ACo.; 10-20-2006, 04:05 PM.
                    Thomas Pare Hern
                    Co. A, 4th Virginia
                    Stonewall Brigade

                    Comment


                    • Re: Rust removal from a worthy Lorenz

                      Comrade,

                      Depends what he wants to do with it. personally, I'm all for restoring artifacts to as close to original finish as is possible. I know that Jim Mayo and others disagree with me, and this comment is no slight to them. I just come from a different school of thought.

                      I'm not interested in the perceived value of a piece set by one portion of the hobby. Any item is only actually worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it, and not a penny more. I was raised in the antiques business, and a restored item, in many cases, is worth much more than one with the original finish destroyed and decaying.

                      The man is looking to clean up his Lorenz to use in the field, and that's his call, as he owns it, and I fully support him in it.

                      Respects,
                      Tim Kindred
                      Medical Mess
                      Solar Star Lodge #14
                      Bath, Maine

                      Comment


                      • Oil on the metal only and a clean cloth is good.

                        Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid, after it attacks the rust it goes after the metal.

                        If it is pitted and the patina is removed to the white, what's left is shiny metal with dark pock marks. I hate to point out how to get remedy that.

                        Personally, I'd listen to T.P Hern and Jim Mayo.
                        John-Owen Kline

                        Comment


                        • Re: Rust removal from a worthy Lorenz

                          Hallo!

                          Assuming the decision has been made to "make it bright..."

                          Yes, abrasives work well. A buffing wheel and bufing compound saves on Elbow Grease.
                          "Acidic" chemicals work well if the surface is not pitted. Birchwood Casey's
                          Rust and Blue Remover and 0000 steel wool or SCOTS BRITE pads work well.
                          NAVAL JELLY will remove patina, but will leave the surface a flat battleship gray that does not look like burnished or maintained iron- unless one repolishes or reburnishes it.

                          And then I could be evil and bring up the discussion, as with the P1853 Enfield, as they left the factory the "Lorenz" (sometimes called "the Austrian Enfield" had some color-casehardened parts and a blued barrel. ;) :) :)

                          Curt
                          Curt Schmidt
                          In gleichem Schritt und Tritt, Curt Schmidt

                          -Hard and sharp as flint...secret, and self-contained, and solitary as an oyster.
                          -Haplogroup R1b M343 (Subclade R1b1a2 M269)
                          -Pointless Folksy Wisdom Mess, Oblio Lodge #1
                          -Vastly Ignorant
                          -Often incorrect, technically, historically, factually.

                          Comment


                          • Re: Rust removal from a worthy Lorenz

                            Since Tim brought my name up I will have to say my .02. I agree with Curt that since the decision has been made to make it bright, lets try to get it right. I would not use Naval Jelly. It will make the metal look dull or frosted. Any abrasive will also scratch the metal. The trick is to find an abrasive where the scratches are so fine that they are invisable but course enough to remove the crud. Almost impossible so you may have to clean in steps. The common wire buffing wheel sold at Sears and other hardware stores are too rough to use. The super fine wire wheels are almost impossible to find but can be used although very carefully and followed up with Crocus cloth. If you havn't used them before it can get you into trouble fast. Don't go there. I have never tried a buffing wheel or the rust and blue remover but it sounds like a good idea. I would use either those or acetone and fine scotch brite or 0000 steel wool or both since I have plenty of each in the garage. I have never used acetone to clean off crud but it should work. Observe the usual precautions when working with solvents. After you have finished cleaning, follow up with Crocus cloth. That will put a bright polish on the barrel but you will use several sheets as it clogs very fast. You still may not be able to get some of the embedded dark discoloration off of the barrel.

                            Good Luck
                            Jim Mayo
                            Portsmouth Rifles, Company G, 9th Va. Inf.

                            CW Show and Tell Site
                            http://www.angelfire.com/ma4/j_mayo/index.html

                            Comment


                            • Re: Rust removal from a worthy Lorenz

                              One alternative for cleaning an item, or in this case part of an item, may be the use of a small hand steamer and a scrunge or other non-metallic (plastic fiber-felt) scrub pad. I'm always amazed at how much crud comes off an item with very small amounts of steam and a rubdown with one of those pads, and it's relatively harmless.

                              Another note: if you do use an acid cleaner like naval jelly, it's a good idea to follow up with baking soda (to neutralize the acid residue) then rinse with distilled water or distilled water steam and dry THOROUGHLY before you do anything else to the piece.

                              Edited to add: I just happened to think: if you have a dollar store nearby, check the cosmetic section for nail sanding blocks. They're ultra-fine abrasive on firm foam rubber, about three inches long by an inch square, and they do very well at removing surface crud from irregularly shaped items without causing major damage. As a non-period example, we've lifted dirt out of chrome on golf club shafts without tearing up the chrome layer.

                              Also, consider what the normal refinishing or cleaning cycle of the whatsis would be. I still grin at the memory of a museum docent, familiar with furniture and clothing but not machinery, who got her feathers in a ruffle because the museum's volunteers had stripped and repainted their newly acquired steam locomotive. "They destroyed every bit of the antique value!" If they hadn't destroyed the rust-bubbled paint, I doubt the engine would be in one piece by now.

                              Becky Morgan
                              Becky Morgan

                              Comment


                              • Re: Rust removal from a worthy Lorenz

                                Originally posted by 1stMaine
                                Comrade,

                                Depends what he wants to do with it. personally, I'm all for restoring artifacts to as close to original finish as is possible. I know that Jim Mayo and others disagree with me, and this comment is no slight to them. I just come from a different school of thought.

                                I'm not interested in the perceived value of a piece set by one portion of the hobby. Any item is only actually worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it, and not a penny more. I was raised in the antiques business, and a restored item, in many cases, is worth much more than one with the original finish destroyed and decaying.

                                The man is looking to clean up his Lorenz to use in the field, and that's his call, as he owns it, and I fully support him in it.

                                Respects,






                                Not to get into a contest to see who is right here, you as well as anyone are welcome to your opinion. Having been "raised in the antiques business" as you were can be a double edged sword - there are different schools of thought within the antique community. Properly restore a classic automobile - good. Restore a firearm, even properly - bad. A 19th Century table that is in equivalent condition to the Lorenz under discussion would be of little value and can benefit from a careful and proper restoration, however if done badly or carelessly, the table becomes an item for everyday use, it is no longer a collectable. The same can be said of a 19th Century military rifle, as long as the work is well done by someone with knowledge and experience doing the work it will not only stop further damage, it will improve it somewhat. Such a person has years of training and knows the tools and methods that are properly used to get the work done properly and is well paid to do the work. If on the other hand it is done by a hack it destroys the piece making it an item for use only and then eventual destruction.

                                And, I might add, Herr Schmidt is correct. Some (but not all) Lorenz rifle muskets were made with a blued barrel and case hardened lock. But this is beyond the work of even the experienced restorer when the rifle musket is in the condition described. It's sort of like putting an 80 year old woman in a pair of hip hugger jeans and a tank top. It will always show. And yes, I have done it! (Restore more than a few originals that is, not the 80 year old lady!) It takes careful and thoughtful work and I do have the hard learned experience, but I found out years ago that there are many collectors that will not touch a restored piece even if the work is well done, unless it is a very high value Golden Age American longrifle or a high value Victorian English double rifle, both valued in the tens of thousands of dollars. Rogue, if you decide to go through with the project, get help from a mentor and follow the advice of both Herr Schmidt and Jim Mayo to guide your hand. I do wish you the best, you may discover a hidden talent and the work well done can be rewarding. :)
                                Last edited by ACo.; 10-20-2006, 09:36 PM.
                                Thomas Pare Hern
                                Co. A, 4th Virginia
                                Stonewall Brigade

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