Backstitch Variation

[utahreenactor]

Friends,

As I have been delving deeper into the realm of 1860's era sewing I have been examining a piece of reproduction clothing made by Pat Brown. They are a pair of Boylan contract trousers that are completely hand sewn, and as I was examining the seam construction I noticed that Mr. Brown used small half backstitches that did not touch, rather than the regular back stitch that resembles machine sewing. When pulled apart the seam shows the thread crossing in almost perfect tiny X's. I would like to ask Mr. Brown this question, as he has the research to back his techniques up, but unfortunately he is somewhere over in Iraq and I cannot get a in contact with him.

My question is, having few options to examine original garments out here in Utah, have any of you come across original military items that were sewn on their main seams with a half backstitch rather than the more conventional stitch? Searching the internet I could find only one picture that resembles the construction of my trousers and that is located here:

http://www.gallarock.com/GettysburgC...ratePants.html (it is the 15th picture down the page showing an interior seam allowance held up to expose the stitching)

The doubt I have about the picture of the CS trousers is that I cannot tell if the stitches were sewn back through the same hole as the last stitch and then simply spread the yarns of the fabric slightly, causing the appearance of half back stitches.

I don’t mean to sound knit picky, but this little detail of construction interests me. Pictures that you may have of seam stitching on military garments are much appreciated!

Chase Pinkham

[rebjeb04]

Re: Backstitch Variation

Hello Mr. Pinkham,

I have used this stitch on several garments and once you get the hang-up its very hard to mess up. From my research it has been employed for several hundred years. In the 1700's it was used for breeches, shirts, etc. and looks so much like a machine stitch, but very durable. I suggest using it on any military home procured items, as its probably what the ladies back home would have sewn constructed it with. I will send some pics soon.:D

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Backstitch Variation

Mr. McBroom, there are many stitches a woman sewing from home might employ--back stitch and half-back are only two options. A better question is: are there any written military specifications regarding what stitches are to be used? In regular tailoring, what stitch is more likely to be used?

For normal dressmaking, a plain old running stitch works well for the vast majority of steps. Backstitch is most often used in setting the sleeve. Whip stitches are used as a seam finish, and in setting skirts. But for most seams, adding piping, finishing edges, hems, etc, a small, neat running stitch seems to be the most common that a woman at home uses. I would be interested in seeing quotes from original military specs or tailoring manuals specifying different techniques and stitches used for military menswear.

[rebjeb04]

Re: Backstitch Variation

To All,

The uniforms and clothing of the 1860's used in the War for Southern Independence were extensively made by hand, and produced by the loving hands of the wives, mothers, sisters, and sweethearts of Southern and Northern troops. I suppose the type, style, and complexity relied solidly on the sewing expeirence of the hand making the garment. We see time and time again the beautiful sewing these ladies mastered in these clothes that would put any sewing machine, modern or contemporary, to shame. Below is an exerpt from Rebecca L. Felton's work on early Georgia history.

"Large families were the rule, visiting was constant, and in times of festivity or bereavement, there were crowds of willing helpers to laugh with the happy or weep with the suffering ones. When my mother was quite small she soon became expert with a needle, and she remembered going with grandmother to neighbor Gov. Wilson Lumpkin's home to a "family sewing." She sat in a high chair near a table and "backstitched" a seam in a pair of men's breeches on that occasion and I thought it was fine when I could sit in my low chair and "backstitch" seams in a pair of breeches for Uncle Dave who was our faithful colored family fire-maker. I never saw a sewing machine until I was full grown and twenty one, but there was no lack of dainty finger work in those early homes. There is a revival of this fine hand-sewing in later days and it is good fortune to find somebody with ancient experience to show what our ante-bellum women could do on this line."

-Rebecca Latimer Felton (1835 - 1930),
pg. 40, Country Life in Georgia: In the Days of My Youth

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These are examples of civilian usage of the Backstitch, but used in garments made to last. The backstitch was done on items made for hard service where alot of stress on the garment may be used. A running stitch is a little less heavy duty, and if a thread breaks, the entire seam may run for a long distance. The backstitch, if a thread should break will not ravel as far and can be easily mended. However, on the original Louisiana shirt from the Troiani collection is entirely running stitched, but is also felled to lend it more durability.

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5.) Germantown, H.S., Acc. #663 (Man's breeches)
Side seam, center back seam, crotch piecing and waist gusset all backstiched.
Northwest Territory Alliance Patternmaster, Backstitch

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Last but not least military usage in Confederate and Union armies:

Don Smith has examined examples of the Federal (Schuylkill) Arsenal sack coat with the main construction seams executed with a backstitch. Did not give detail weather full or half backstitch, but would probably have rested on the hands of the sewer.

The Confederate "Monroe" Depot jacket (probably a product of the Monroe Depot, Monroe, La.) in the collection of the Mansfield Battlefield Park Museum is entirely constructed with a backstitch.

Also in the collection are a pair of "Mansfield" trousers that are rather unique in not having suspender buttons attached, but sports a belted adjustable back. Made of a sheepsgray jean with blue cording down the side seam to denote infantry. These trousers are also constructed with a backstitch.

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I hope this info and these sources will be helpful to many campaigners reproducing clothes in an authentic manner. Reproducing these garments is not rocket science and these ancestors of ours were not trying to "re-invent the wheel", but make something for thier loved one that would render longlasting service. I guess authenticity begins with attitude more than technique.:tounge_sm

[Michael McComas]

Re: Backstitch Variation

Mr. Pinkham,

I have examined two pair of trousers which were stitched with a half backstitch on the main seams--one of likely commutation origin, the other a military garment made by private tailor. I think it is likely that which stitch was used depended in part on the training and habit of the tailor. Personally, I like the half backstitch because I think it makes for a somewhat tighter seam than a full backstitch, and for me it feels faster. When I teach someone hand-sewing, I generally teach them to use the half backstitch, thus propagating the technique from one generation to the next by example and word of mouth, much the way it would have been done among family members in the 1860's.

I have also seen half-backstitch employed on topstitching, and it varies from very tight and regular to wide and messy like on the Redwood RD III in the Museum of the Confederacy, which if I recall without looking at my notes was backstitched at something like 4/inch.

The technique was certainly known and employed in the period.

Best,

Michael

[utahreenactor]

Re: Backstitch Variation

Mr. McComas and Mr. McBroom,

Thank you both for your answers, i found them very informative! I have tried stitching with both a full and half back stitch and I too find the half back stitch to make a tighter, and usually straighter, seam. I will keep this in mind when i make my own garments. Thank you very much!

Chase Pinkham

[Ltkris81]

Re: Backstitch Variation

But Chase you a genious at sewing in my humble opinion. Why improve? :) There!!!! Does that pay for my Domet Flannel shirt now, after my RDII?