How should I remove Canteen Rust?

[csaswb]

Beeswaxing a canteen

I am sorry if this is a repeat question but, I would like to know exactly how do I beeswax line a canteen (smooth side) I am trying to do two things: One is preserve it and make it last longer and two cover the tin taste if possible. Have used the search articles several ways and gotten several articels sugesting beeswax but no real instructions on how. Can I hack off a peice of a beeswax candel remove the wick drop it in and add heat turning several times while cooling off? I realize that this may be a goofy question but I had to ask. Thanks for your replies.

Pvt. Paul Lutz
Co H 33rd Va Inf.

[jgr1974]

Re: Beeswaxing a canteen

Sounds like it would work, but try this! Heat the wax in a glass jar. A disposable one is best, because the residue is hard to remove. Heat the jar in the microwave until a liquid form. It may take a few minutes depending on how much you use. When removing, careful it is hot! Pour melted wax in spout swish around, and pour out excess. This may take a couple of times to full coat it.

Hope this helps!

The Mad Mick!!!

[Rebbeh]

Re: Beeswaxing a canteen

best ways i found, was to use a gas powered stove (but this is also dangerous, as if you do it wrong, you'll burn your house down!), or to be outside and use a fire that way. what you do, is use a skillet, and heat it up without the candle in it. make it warm, but not super duper hot. put the candle in, and see how much it melts, and keep "swirling" the wax that melts off. remember though, that beeswax is flammable, so you don't want the pan TOO hot. don't even set it on the burner for that matter. heat it ABOVE the fire/coil or whatever once the candle is in. melt the candle a little, and then remove the pan from the heat, and let it cool just a bit, so as not to overdue it and burn off your face! when the candle is all melted, remove the wic while the wax is still melted. now, put it back in the fire for a few seconds to get it hotter, then pour it into your canteen quickly. use a funnel. trust me. now, it's in there, quickly put in your cork, and shake the bejeebus out of the wax, making sure to coat the entire canteen by spinning it on its side, and holding it upside down. then remove the cork, and pour out whatever wax is still in there. do not let the wax puddle and cool inside the canteen. once it's poured out, simply hold it upright, and blow some cool air into your canteen. a little is all it takes. let it sit for like, 30 minutes.

you should be good to go.

[PogueMahone]

Re: Beeswaxing a canteen

Paul,

I'd like to know why you want to do this? Do you have any primary documentation that shows that issued tin canteens were lined with wax? Any anecdotal reference from a diary that soldiers waxed their canteens? Have you ever seen an original that was waxed? A dug canteen with wax remnants inside?

Waxing your canteen is not authentic.

For anyone that wants to wax their canteen, please, God, do not do what has been suggested above. Get a block of wax and use a double boiler to melt on the stove, just like you would chocolate. If your wife waxes her body hair, ask for her help ... with melting the wax, not your body hair. Unless you like that sort of thing.

[1stMaine]

Re: Beeswaxing a canteen

Comrades,

I've gotta go with Joe on this one. there is no reason to "wax" your canteen. It wasn't done then, and there's no reason now to do it.

If you clean your canteen correctly, and dry it out properly, then rust will not form. If you simply toss in a spoonful of baking soda with a half-canteen's worth of water, swish it around, and then pour it out , rinse and repeat, the water will taste fresh and clean.

Do yoursel;f a favour and learn how to clean and dry a canteen. Leave the waxing to the ladies. Besides, if all else fails, remember that rust is good for your bowels.......

Respects,

[Rob]

Re: Beeswaxing a canteen

My canteen is nearly three seasons old. No beeswax, and the only rust is a bit where the two halves meet. All that's needed is a little care.

When in use, keep it as nearly full as possible. No air = no rust.

When you get home from an outing:

1. Dump most of the water out, leaving about half a cup or so inside. Using a small spoon or funnel, put about a tablespoon of baking soda in. Slosh this mixture around and pour it out. Shake out as much of the water as you can. (Make sure you hold the cork securely, so that it does not hit you in the face.)

2. Pull the sling through the bottom keepers and hang it upside-down to drain out any standing water. A cotton towel or a piece of an old shirt jammed into the spout will help to wick the water away.

3. After an hour or so, remove the wick and let it air-dry. Hanging it by an open window will help. A sunny open window is even better.

4. If you live in an area where there are a lot of wasps or hornets, don't hang it outside the house, or you may find some unwanted guests inside. ;)

[jacifus]

How should I remove Canteen Rust?

Well, after pulling both of my tin drum canteens from storage, nasty flakes of BLACK rust keep coming out of my canteens....(Yes I rinsed them with baking soda) they have been in storage for two years....Anybody have any ideas how to remove the rust from inside?

[reddcorp]

Re: How should I remove Canteen Rust?

Think this has been gone over before, but, I use fine gravel, the type you use in a fish tank, pour some into the canteen along with hot water, and vigourously swish it around a bit....repeat...repeat....etc. Then put a twisted paper towel as a wick into the spout, and leave upside down for a while until the canteen dries out.

A.W.Redd

[jacifus]

Re: How should I remove Canteen Rust?

Thanks....

I will give it a try!:)

[federal_musician]

Re: How should I remove Canteen Rust?

I kept a plastic bag of sand in my CW gear box, and used it in the same manner.

Best way is not to get any in the first place. I have developed a canteen "drying stand" by getting a quarter inch dowell about 12" long and a piece of old blacket with a small hole in it. I stick the dowell upright between two (or more) items that are tight together, then push the piece of blanket down over the hole. On your way home, place the already emptied canteen on the dowell, and any water residue will flow down onto the blanket, giving you a dry canteen when you unload your gear.


Fran Long
Brigade Brass Band

[YoungCampaigner]

Re: How should I remove Canteen Rust?

Hello All. I agree with Mr. Long on this one. I always use a hair dryer to get the moisture out of my canteen after an event. It works pretty well. You just have to be careful not to let it go too long or you might melt the solder on your canteen.

Sincerely,
William Chapman
40th Va. Infantry, Co. B
and
Signal Corps of the James
http://www.theyoungcampaigner.com

[Prodical Reb]

Re: How should I remove Canteen Rust?

I used a product called naval jelly.! CAUTION!! THIS IS AN ACID WEAR PROPER PROTECTIVE GEAR, RUBBER GLOVES, FACE SHIELD OR GOGGLES AND RUBBER SMOCK. Wally world has it. It's intended purpose is to clean rusty metal. I poured this into the canteen plugged the end with my finger and swished it around to coat the inside. Let the acid work for a little while (depending on the amount or rust) or a longer while; rinse, check, repeat as neccasary. When finished, rinse with a neutralizer like baking soda and rinse again. Dry then coat with bees wax. It's like a new canteen on the inside

[rlhardingjr]

Re: How should I remove Canteen Rust?

Gentlemen;

I would like to offer this helpful hint in maintaining, and hopefully, retarding the onset of internal oxidation (rust) of your tinned sheet iron canteens. For more years than I care to admit.., okay - 30+, it has been an accepted fact that if you carry a canteen made of tinned sheet iron - you will garner rust on the inside at some point. I would assume that most individuals object to the grit of the iron oxide rather than the taste. Get thirsty enough the taste won't matter. Most of the posts offered here, other than the lining with bee's wax, are one's I have used with limited success in the past. Post-event care and maintenance of your uniform, traps and gear are paramount in protecting your investment - especially your tin canteen.

Everyone interested in this subject should know, or at least understand, that the catalyst to this problem is moisture and air. Removing one or both will reduce the rapid advances of rust and destructive corrosion. I have a problem with sticking a piece of paper toweling up into the canteen to act as a wick to aid in the removal of moisture in that it just does not work well or fast enough. Moisture trapped inside the canteen by the paper acting as a wick will start the process of oxidation almost immediately.

The post offering the suggestion of using a hair dryer to dry out the inside of your tin canteens is probably the closest solution to the one I offer to you. I doubt seriously that you stand the chance of getting your canteen hot enough to melt the solder with a 1500 watt household hair dryer. The last time I checked, pure lead melted somewhere just a little over four hunded degrees fahrenheit. The lead-free solders used today melt at even higher temperatures, so I don't think you would have an issue on that account. The problem with holding a hair dryer on your canteen to drive out all the moisture is, at least, time consuming and marginally effective. I am sure you have other maintenance issues to attend, especially after a wet event.

Comrades - give this a try and see if it don't work better than anything you have ever tried before. I have used it for years now and I am perfectly satisfied it is the best option you have with no more of an investment of six to ten dollars. Mine cost me nothing as I just borrow the one my wife keeps on the kitchen counter. I just have to remember and replace the hot wax candle container back onto the hot plate after the canteen is dry. There you have it - a hot plate for those scented wax candles. You can pick up these little hot plate devices wherever scented candle are sold. Sometimes Wal Mart has them hanging on the impluse racks at checkout. They are inexpensive and simple to use. They have only two settings - "off" & "on".

The first thing I do when I get home from an event is to drain and rinse my canteen(s). I will prop them upside down on a clean drying towel to drain while I unload the rest of my gear. Having done that, I will "borrow" the candle hot plate by replacing the scented candle with my canteen and let it sit on the heated hot plate for at least an hour. You can let it sit there over night (not recommended) as it will not certainly hurt the canteen, but a couple of hours will more than do the trick.

After and hour or so, I will check the canteen for any signs of moisture. These little hot plates generate only enough heat to melt candle wax and not lead-free solder. Hint - I will lay the cork stopper either aside or on top of my canteen to dry. The stopper will shrink a bit but will expand in size once it comes in contact with water again. Once the inside of the canteen is thorougly dry, I will seal it with the stopper and hang it back up with the rest of my gear until the next event.

These little hot plates work well for all tinned sheet iron canteens - US/CS with or without wool covers - drums, ovals or kidney shaped. The purpose here is to evaporate and drive out the moisture, then seal it with the stopper to prevent anything from getting back into the inside - moisture, critters or otherwise...

There you have it - effective as a rifle-musket and as cheap as a foraged chicken (provided you do not get caught). I cerainly invite your comments and or other suggestions on this and other subjects. I am sure everyone here can benefit from the experiences of all you veterans out there, so keep it coming...

Most respectfully your's,

R. L. (Rick) Harding, Jr.
Morehouse Guards - 3LA