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Re: The Monster Enfield Defarbing Thread
The following applies to those considering the re-working of a finished reproduction to a more "correct" finish but also holds true with an unfinished kit gun.
Try a good grade of furniture stripper first. I have had good luck with "Formby's Furniture Refinisher" but it may not work as well as some of the stronger types available at any hardware/paint store. Whatever type you use, follow the directions on the can carefully. Some modern finishes do not come off with stripper right away, especially some of the plastic or epoxy based finishes that were in use back 20 or 30 years ago but current finishes seem to be easier to remove. If the stripper that you purchase does not seem to be working the way it should, talk to the people at the store, they may be able to recommend another type more suited to your finish. When the stripper has done its work and the wood is dry you can burnish with 00, 000 or even 0000 steel wool, I usually use 00 or 000.
Best avoid sandpaper altogether when refinishing a stock, it is the last thing you want to use and should only come into play if the finish can not be removed any other way. If you have to use it, start with 120 or 150 (no courser) and work to finer grades, the 120 or 150 will remove all of the finish. You can go as fine as 320 but it really should not be necessary, stop at 220 if possible. The course grits will removed too much wood too fast and you will have an uneven mess with gouges in the surface of the wood so use a sanding block and use long strokes to avoid this problem. And remember to sand with the grain of the wood, not across it (back to front, not up and down). Try to remove as little wood as is humanly possible, too much and the surface of the wood around your inletting cuts will be reduced and the metal parts (triggerguard, buttplate and lock, band springs, muzzle cap, etc.) will stand proud of the wood and it will look like crap. Also the barrel bands will become loose if too much wood is removed. Speaking of barrel bands, sand from the shoulder of one to the shoulder of the next one - if you sand over the shoulders you will round them over and are in BIG trouble. The above can also hold true when finish sanding a kit gun, use the same grades of sandpaper.
Originally posted by LonestarRifles
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The following applies to those considering the re-working of a finished reproduction to a more "correct" finish but also holds true with an unfinished kit gun.
Try a good grade of furniture stripper first. I have had good luck with "Formby's Furniture Refinisher" but it may not work as well as some of the stronger types available at any hardware/paint store. Whatever type you use, follow the directions on the can carefully. Some modern finishes do not come off with stripper right away, especially some of the plastic or epoxy based finishes that were in use back 20 or 30 years ago but current finishes seem to be easier to remove. If the stripper that you purchase does not seem to be working the way it should, talk to the people at the store, they may be able to recommend another type more suited to your finish. When the stripper has done its work and the wood is dry you can burnish with 00, 000 or even 0000 steel wool, I usually use 00 or 000.
Best avoid sandpaper altogether when refinishing a stock, it is the last thing you want to use and should only come into play if the finish can not be removed any other way. If you have to use it, start with 120 or 150 (no courser) and work to finer grades, the 120 or 150 will remove all of the finish. You can go as fine as 320 but it really should not be necessary, stop at 220 if possible. The course grits will removed too much wood too fast and you will have an uneven mess with gouges in the surface of the wood so use a sanding block and use long strokes to avoid this problem. And remember to sand with the grain of the wood, not across it (back to front, not up and down). Try to remove as little wood as is humanly possible, too much and the surface of the wood around your inletting cuts will be reduced and the metal parts (triggerguard, buttplate and lock, band springs, muzzle cap, etc.) will stand proud of the wood and it will look like crap. Also the barrel bands will become loose if too much wood is removed. Speaking of barrel bands, sand from the shoulder of one to the shoulder of the next one - if you sand over the shoulders you will round them over and are in BIG trouble. The above can also hold true when finish sanding a kit gun, use the same grades of sandpaper.
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