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The Monster Enfield Defarbing Thread

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  • #76
    Re: Linseed Oil Stocks/ Defarbing Stocks

    I used raw linseed oil with some turpentine at a 50/50 ratio. Pretty slow dry time. I rubbed at least four solid coats into the stock over that many months. That was a year ago. Now I just dip a rag once or twice into my 50/50 mix and rub that small amount into the stock. (The rag is then placed in a plastic bag, tied, and placed into the garbage. I don't want my shed turning to flames from a spontaneous combustion of drying linseed oil rags.)

    At an event last weekend, I cleaned my musket with some fresh fish who were using chemicals gallore. I needed to take care of something away from the fresh fish and layed down my dirty musket next to their clean muskets. The fresh fish complemented my musket and stock for it's ultra cleanliness. I told the kid it was actually dirty. I hadn't cleaned it since I did a solid field cleaning atop Lookout Mountain last November. (This was my first firing event since then.) In lubricating the lock, stock and barrel at events, I typically use hog fat or olive oil.

    You can really tell the difference in the sun light between the linseed oiled stocks verses that brand new, modern finish.

    Take your time removing the finish from your musket. You'll likely have to strip it several times before you remove all the varnish. Also, take your time applying the linseed oil. Stock refinishing isn't something one does the weekend before an event. It's a long term, boring project which yields substantial results when done properly.
    Silas Tackitt,
    one of the moderators.

    Click here for a link to forum rules - or don't at your own peril.

    Comment


    • #77
      From the Old Forum

      As part of my "From the Old Forum" series (grin), here is a discussion on defarbing muskets that includes Curt's piece on Raw vs Boiled linseed oil.

      John T




      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Rifle Stack Jonah on December 15th, 2002 10:42 PM:
      When defarbing your musket...

      Should you get rid of the engraving on the bottom side of the barrel too? Thanks

      __________________
      Tom Billings
      52nd IL INF

      ThomasCBillings@Yahoo.com



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Kriegslok on December 15th, 2002 11:05 PM:

      I removed everything that was visible (and not period correct) when the gun is assembled. I moved the serial number to the underside of the barrel. I would imagine originals were marked with a serial numbers, but not with the modern style stamps used by Armisport or Euro Arms. I did my 1861 Springfield (Euroarms) with pretty good results including making rivits for the sling swivels. My 1842 Springfield (Armisport) with the bright finish, was a bit tougher. The stamping was very deep so it took some careful filing plus buffing to get the bright finish back. I had to work from books as I do not own any original pieces. Be slow and careful and the results are very satisfying.

      __________________
      TJ Markert
      11NJVCoE



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Curt Heinrich Schmidt on December 15th, 2002 11:27 PM:


      Hallo, Kameraden!

      Contrary to the scene in the movie GLORY...." Arsenal produced "muskets" were not generally numbered.
      However, arms like the Sharps rifle and carbines were.

      Contrary to persistent reenactor lore, there is no federal requirement that reproduction muskets carry modern serial numbers (although it has been said they do so purely for customs purposes). Removal of the bogus Italian serial numbers does not break any FEDERAL laws.

      However, in this wonderful Country, we do have bewildering state and municipal laws that may conflict with that. Generally, they do not. It is a VERY GOOD idea to check your "area's local" law before removing a serial number.

      Some lads like to restrike the modern serial number underneath the barrel for personal identification and/or insurance identification purposes. Some strike their name instead,or name and birthdate. Some use their Social Security numbers, but in this New Day of identity theft issues, that may not be such a good idea...

      Curt-Heinrich Schmidt
      We've Got Your Number Right Here Mess

      __________________
      Curt Schmidt
      I didn't like him anyway... he wasn't right...in the head.



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Rifle Stack Jonah on December 15th, 2002 11:46 PM:
      Asking?

      On the bottom of the barrel it says "CAL 58-3 DRAMS BLACK POWDER ONLY" This is what I am asking if i should remove. Thanks

      __________________
      Tom Billings
      52nd IL INF

      ThomasCBillings@Yahoo.com



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      Posted by Dave_Grieves on December 16th, 2002 12:16 AM:

      There's no reason not to. It's just telling you what caliber your musket is, and how much black powder would be the maximum load. No reason to keep it there.

      BTW, 1 dram = 27.34375 grains.

      __________________
      Dave Grieves
      122nd New York
      Potomac Legion



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Curt Heinrich Schmidt on December 16th, 2002 12:28 AM:


      Hallo, Kamerad!

      If one subscribes to the level of authenticity that says that if a Civil War soldier did not have to look at it, why should we...
      Yes, it is an unnecessary and unauthentic modern intrusion.
      (Now for some, out of sight is truly out of mind.... :-) )

      Curt-Heinrich Schmidt
      3 Drams Will Shoot Your Eye Out Mess

      __________________
      Curt Schmidt
      I didn't like him anyway... he wasn't right...in the head.



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Rifle Stack Jonah on December 16th, 2002 12:46 AM:


      Thanks Pards.

      __________________
      Tom Billings
      52nd IL INF

      ThomasCBillings@Yahoo.com



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Kriegslok on December 16th, 2002 01:11 AM:

      Jonah, I am guessing when you say the Bottom of the barrel you mean at the breech end rather than the muzzle. I thought you were talking about something you found on the barrel "under the wood". Yes remove it.

      Mr Schmidt, you are correct about the serial number and the Federal requirements. Unfortunately, I live in one of those "check with your local laws" places. Here in NJ, black powder arms are considered firearms just like a Garand or AR-15. You have to have a permit to buy one in NJ and you cannot have them shipped here. Luckily, PA is a short drive away and black powder arms can be legaly bought and transported into NJ by NJ residents

      You are also correct in that the movie "Glory" was confusing to us newbies when they handed out rifles by serial number.

      __________________
      TJ Markert
      11NJVCoE



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Fl. Reb on December 16th, 2002 02:59 AM:
      What do I use?

      What tool do I use for defarbing my gun?
      I don't want to mess up my gun, I don't exactly have tons of moola.
      Alec Sutton


      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Mutt on December 16th, 2002 04:45 AM:
      Tools, not the people kind ;)

      Hey Alec,

      Welp, to get the markings off the barrel you need a good ol file. Actually several files is ideal. You start with a rougher file and work down to a finer one. Also, some emery clothe to polish it off.

      Look into getting Geoff Walden's pamphlet on defarbing your Repro Enfield. If you have an enfield, it's obviously very valuable to your efforts. If you own another rifle, it'll at least be abel to guide tou through the filing process.

      Also, check the past posts of this Board. I know Mr Heinrich has posted a helluv-a-lot on our friend the Enfield and rifles and muskets in general.

      Regards,

      __________________
      Matthew Mickletz
      "Mutt"
      Phoenix Iron Pards



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Fl. Reb on December 16th, 2002 01:27 PM:
      thanks

      Thanks. But can I use a grinder?

      --------------
      Alec Sutton


      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Dave_Grieves on December 16th, 2002 02:34 PM:

      You can use a grinder if you're good at it. They tend to take too much metal too fast.

      You just want to go deep enough so that you can't see the markings when you have finished polishing out the filed area. To remove too much will make it obvious that you ground somthing off, and if you want to fire the gun, it could be unsafe if too much metal is taken out in a spot on the barrel.

      __________________
      Dave Grieves
      122nd New York
      Potomac Legion



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Cpl. Ston-e on December 16th, 2002 04:00 PM:
      Stock work?

      Should you sand all the poly off of the rifle stock???
      I was thinking of doing this, using linseed oil and re staining
      the stock. What is the correct procedure for refinishing a stock authenticly? Thanks for the help!

      __________________
      J.T. Clements
      18th Va Inf. Co.G
      Longstreets Corps
      " Doc, I'm belevin I've got the glimpses."



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Curt Heinrich Schmidt on December 16th, 2002 04:00 PM:
      Some people like fishing with grenades...

      Hallo, Kameraden!

      Although power tools can be our friends... they can be most unforgiving of mistakes.
      IMHO, a grinder is "too much tool" for the job at hand (removing shallow stampings) in that they remove too much metal too fast, tend to leave behind "flat areas," and more importantly leave deeper scratches and gouges that require more work to remove.
      Polishing metal involves removing larger scratches and replacing them with ever smaller and finer scratches until the human eye can no longer see them and the surface looks dull (then shiny).
      A decent 6 or 8 inch "mill" file, and a couple or three sheets of 220 and 400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and/or emory cloth will do the trick safely and professional-looking. (The fewer scratches put on, the fewer need to be removed.)
      A sanding pad or "disk" with the same grit sandpaper disks, for a 1/4 inch power drill, saves on elbow grease- but moves toward the risks and dangers of the grinder or grinding wheel!

      Curt-Heinrich Schmidt
      Tim "Tool Man" Taylor Lessons Mess

      __________________
      Curt Schmidt
      I didn't like him anyway... he wasn't right...in the head.



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Curt Heinrich Schmidt on December 16th, 2002 04:13 PM:
      Long....

      Hallo, Kameraden!

      Period linseed oil is not the same as the modern stuff, so using
      modern boiled linseed oil "simulates" but does not "replicate" the oil-dipped finishes in use at the time of the Civil War. Here is an overall view...

      " Raw vs. Boiled Linseed Oil

      It was not uncommon in the 17th century for gun stocks to be painted black, brown, or at times even red or blue. By the 18th century, instead of linseed oil based paints, the stocks were treated with linseed oil itself.
      By the time of the Civil War, finished stocks were dipped into heated tanks of linseed oil for a few minutes, the excess wiped off, and the stocks set aside to air dry.
      Availability, tradition, lack of synthetic substitutes, and later the lack of suitable plastic stock materials made linseed oil the armory finish all the way up to the M1 when shortages in 1942 and the desire to waterproof stocks led to the use of tung oil instead.
      It is believed that the use of linseed oil was not intended as a finish, but rather as a means of protecting the wood from drying out and cracking or splitting prior to being issued. Many a private between World War I and World War II would be kept busy with “stock maintenance” and a little bottle of linseed oil.
      But, exactly what is linseed oil?
      Linseed oil is a liquid vegetable oil made from the seeds of the flax plant that contain polyunsaturated fatty acids. Short of returning to high school chemistry, these fatty acids have molecular bonds that are attacked by oxygen to form radicals, which starts a chain reaction that increases incrementally over time to form polymers or a natural plastic in the form of a tough, elastic, film. (water dries by vaporization, linseed oil by oxidation)
      Because of this reaction, linseed oil eventually “dries” at normal temperatures and is often referred to as a “drying oil” and it formed the basis for “oil-based” paint.
      However, the location that the flax plants were grown, the climate, and other factors can alter the content of the fatty acids present in the linseed oil. Too much of certain acids such as linolenic acid causes linseed oil to dry too fast, turn yellow, or turn brittle. In addition, containing fatty acids, linseed oil is subject to attack by fungus and mildew, and like fat will turn rancid.

      Raw Linseed Oil

      Linseed oil that was just expressed is a golden brown or yellowish color that then could be refined and bleached for use in the art industry.
      “Raw linseed oil” is linseed oil that has been extracted and packaged without additional additives. It still contains the gums that occur naturally in the oil and gives it its “hard” finishing quality.
      The problem with linseed oil is that it can take days, weeks, or even months to dry.
      Somewhere around 200 A.D. the discovery was made that if the raw linseed oil was boiled it thickened and dried faster.

      Boiled Linseed Oil

      However in the modern era, it was discovered that the drying or film formation process could be sped up by adding driers in the form of oil soluble metal salts usually lead oxide,
      and more recent times cobalt, manganese, or calcium salts. To effectively dissolve the chemicals, the linseed oil was heated to near or boiling, and then often thickened by bubbling oxygen through it.
      Today, so-called “Boiled Linseed Oil” is not what one would think- Civil War era linseed oil. Instead, it is raw linseed oil that has been processed, usually with sulfuric and phosphoric acid to remove the gums. It is then further altered through the addition of chemical drying accelerators. 19
      Although a partial, water-proof barrier can be imparted to a stock with modern so-called “boiled linseed oil” through many applications, the lack of gums tends to prevent the formation of a truly protective film. Without the protective film, water can and will penetrate the wood.
      Linseed oil was a penetrating finish, meaning it penetrated into the fibers of the wood
      and dried or hardened within the wood. It does not generally build up a surface film like varnish or lacquer because its film dries too “soft.”
      “Varnish” refers to a drying oil like linseed oil that has added resins such as alkyd, phenolic, or polyurethane. In the old days, varnish was made by hand by adding resins, lac (the cocoon secretions of an Asian insect made into a flakes) or gums to oil and alcohol. Today the resins such as alkyd, phenolic, or polyurethane are synthetic, and the percentage of oil present determines the type of varnish. Varnish builds up on the surface and dries to a hard protective shell.
      There are about as many recipes for gunstock finishes as there are people using them. Most involve using oil/varnish blends, home-made or commercial, such as Lin-Speed Oil, Tru-Oil, Watco Danish Oil, Minwax Tung Oil Finish, and others. Some involve “wiping varnish” which often is nothing more than varnish thinned by as much as half with paint thinner and confused by it by called “tung oil finish.”
      The look and effect of the “armory dip” can be achieved by adding some of the gums back into the modern so-called “boiled linseed oil.”
      This can be done by using a 1/3 mixture of modern boiled linseed oil, 1/3 modern spar varnish (for the resins), and thinned with 1/3 turpentine (for penetration).
      The mix is painted on heavily, allowing it to soak well into the wood for 5-10 minutes. The excess is wiped off, and the stock set aside to air dry. Drying time will depend upon temperature and humidity. Once dry, additional coats can be hand-rubbed a few drops at a time from the palm of the hand until the friction warms the hand. Again, the stock is set aside to dry. This is repeated several more times.
      Another method, going back to colonial times, combines the look of the dipped linseed oil finish with the weather proof qualities of the polymer finishes. This recipe involves 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 beeswax, and 1/3 turpentine.
      The mixture is gently heated (NOT over an open flame!) until it well melted and mixed. As it cools, it congeals into a paste that is rubbed into the stock to make a great military style finish."

      Curt Heinrich Schmidt

      __________________
      Curt Schmidt
      I didn't like him anyway... he wasn't right...in the head.



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Cpl. Ston-e on December 16th, 2002 04:27 PM:
      Neat!

      Thanks, very interesting...
      I am nervous about taking on this project.
      Anyone else with any advice is welcome...
      Danke Herr Schmidt!

      __________________
      J.T. Clements
      18th Va Inf. Co.G
      Longstreets Corps
      " Doc, I'm belevin I've got the glimpses."



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Curt Heinrich Schmidt on December 16th, 2002 06:23 PM:
      Doesn't have to be complicated, ask around for help...

      Hallo, Kamerad!

      Don't fret, or have Angst.
      You can easily do as most lads do, and simply hand-rub several coats of modern "boiled linseed oil" into the stock (and maintian it or refresh it once a year or so.)

      Curt-Heinrich Schmidt

      __________________
      Curt Schmidt
      I didn't like him anyway... he wasn't right...in the head.



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Fod on December 16th, 2002 11:02 PM:

      I do not recommend "sanding" the polyu finish off the stock...use a chemical stripper

      Refinishing the stock

      Materials needed:
      Bix stripper or Parks sprayable stripper
      Metal scraper (plastic melts)
      Chemical gloves (cheap ones melt)
      Metal coffee or paint can
      Very fine steel wool
      Mineral spirits
      Clean soft cloths

      Warning: You’ll be working with some very potent, TOXIC chemicals here. Read the directions and warning labels. Material such as rags impregnated with linseed oil may spontaneously combust after a long period due to gradual reaction with oxygen.

      Remove all metal hardware from your rifle.
      Suspend the stock over the can to catch the drips
      Put on your gloves (if you skip this part, your skin will burn)
      Spray or apply stripper and wait according to instructions on can.
      Remove softened finish and stripper with metal scraper.
      Apply a light coat of stripper and remove any remaining finish with steel wool pads soaked in mineral spirits.
      (Warning: If you use Bix stripper, it says you can use water for the above step. Be advised that using water here instead of mineral spirits will remove the stain also).
      Let the stock dry thoroughly. The stock may be noticeably lighter in color, don’t worry; it darkens naturally with the linseed oil finish.

      Dispose of the removed finish properly. You don't want this stuff in your water supply.

      Refinish with one of the mixtures given by Herr Schmidt.

      __________________
      Daniel Fodera
      Pvt
      14th Reg't, SC Vol Inf
      PLHA
      "They were the dirtiest men I ever saw, a most ragged, lean and hungry set of wolves. Yet there was a dash about them that the northern men lacked."




      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Jack Enright on December 17th, 2002 01:08 AM:

      Ref. finishing for gunstocks; this was passed on to me by Pat, an old friend who was a custom gunstock maker.
      Only use raw linseed oil. The secret of a good, lasting finish is not the amount of oil used, but the effort put into driving the oil deep into the grain of the wood.
      When Pat had finished a gunstock, or target pistol butt. he'd take it to the pub in the evening with a little bottle of raw linseed. Sit by the fire, he'd smear a tiny amount of oil on the wood and spend hours gently rubbing away at it - and the finish he achieved was glorious!
      Another route you might try is the mixture I use on my yew longbow; a 50:50 mix of raw linseed oil and pure turpentine (NOT WHITE SPIRIT!!). The turpentine helps the oil soak deep into the grain of the wood, then appears to dry out. Though whether it actually evaporates, or just oxidises and thickens up , I don't know. But my bow is very happy with it!

      Ref. tools for use on the barrel; I would not under ANY circumstances take an angle grinder to a barrel. And without boasting, I can say I'm an artist with an angle grinder, but even so - no chance! One reason is that an angle grinder will make a concave cut into the metal, whereas you want the surface of the barrel left convex. The other is, it's just too fast! Taking off metal with a file is hard work, but trying to put it BACK without it showing is near impossible without major engineering facilities.

      Finally, I wholeheartedly agree with Curt's advice that the best tool for the job is a mill-file (or single-cut file). These are far less likely to put deep scratches into the metal than a cross-cut file. Slow and sure will get you there, mate!! Go for it!!



      Jack Enright

      24th MI Vol (UK)


      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Curt Heinrich Schmidt on December 17th, 2002 01:47 AM:


      Hallo, Kameraden!

      Jawohl!
      "Raw" linseed is actually "more like" period boiled linseed oil in that it still has most of the gums and resins still it it that gives the "protective barrier" in the wood (and not just on it).
      It lacks the drying agents, so dries much slower.
      Modern boiled linseed oil is hydroscopic, and does not seal the wood. A drop of water left on it, will be "sucked" into the wood in a few minutes or so. (Although we have have "sealed" stocks with 20-40 hand-rubbed coats of heated boiled linseed oil and turpentine....)

      Regarding sanding versus stripping of stocks...

      Sanding adds work in that one is "scratching" the wood and those scratches need "sande out" with progressively finer grades/grits of sandpaper.
      For newcomers/newbies, there is also the risk if "rounding edges" of mortises and crisp areas.

      However, "stripping," if not done properly, often just removes the layer of polyurethane ABOVE the surface of the wood, leaving the "plastic" in the wood and acting as a barrier for subsequent oilings to work their way "into" and not just "on" the wood.
      I strip as well as sand, to ensure I have opened the grain and surface of the wood for the oil to come. Just my way...

      Curt-Heinrich Schmidt
      Former 18th and 19th Century Gunmaker Mess

      __________________
      Curt Schmidt
      I didn't like him anyway... he wasn't right...in the head.



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by SCTiger on December 26th, 2002 06:55 AM:
      alternative wood

      Was there any type of wood stock that was common to the period, that did not need all the linseed oil maintenance?
      In other words a stock that was water resistive and did not need finishing?

      I was thinking along the lines of a cyprus wood or a heavy wood like mahogany??

      Greg Deese

      __________________
      Gregory A. Deese (Deas)

      Rowdy Pards- SC Section






      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Posted by Curt Heinrich Schmidt on December 26th, 2002 04:13 PM:

      Hallo!

      For the most part, walnut was used for military gunstocks, as it was common and cheap.
      To over-generalize, of course there are other woods in existence but pretty much military guns used walnut or black walnut while civilian guns tended to favor hard-rock maple.
      It is not the wood, but rather the type of finish used that makes it resistant to the elements. In some countries, like the USA, "wood" fell from favor in the mid 1960's and since in favor of black "plastic." ;-)
      "Period linseed oil" was a cheap and fairly quick method. For civilian guns where production was low, etc, etc. a gunmaker could take the time to use more "varnish" type finishes to hand-rub many, many coats to produce a durable if not water-resistant finish.
      Part of the 20th century "barracks chores" of American solders up until WWII was using their little bottle of linseed oil to "renew" their gun finishes.

      Curt-Heinrich Schmidt

      __________________
      Curt Schmidt
      I didn't like him anyway... he wasn't right...in the head.



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      • #78
        Re: From the Old Forum

        Armisport is now using oil on the stocks of it weapons how does this change the procedure? Would just rubbing in a 50/50 of linseed oil and turpintine do the trick?
        I am, etc.
        Thomas Gingras
        Awkward Squad Mess
        Columbia Rifles
        Honorary SRR "Yankee"

        Comment


        • #79
          Finish appearance

          What should the end result of the oil finish look like. I put ten or so layers of Lin-Speed on the stock of my '42 until it looked liked it was varnished. I had enough people comment on the "modern" finish that I used steel wool to take off the shine. The wood now has a dull appearance.

          In light on the fact that stocks were dipped, which finish would be more proper, the thick shiny one or the thin dull one?

          Sorry if my descriptions are unclear.
          Robert Carter
          69th NYSV, Co. A
          justrobnj@gmail.com
          www.69thsnyv.org

          Comment


          • #80
            Re: Linseed Oil Stocks/ Defarbing Stocks

            You will be lucky if you can get 100% of the finish out of the wood from a polyurethane treated stock. That's another reason to sand the stock as well as strip it: opens up more wood fibers. Using a historically correct pure linseed oil concoction over a stock containing polyurethane residue may feel good but unless you dump the old stock and replace it with a new, unfinished one you will still not have an "authentic" finish.

            In other words, it doesn't really matter if you use pure, boiled, or otherwise augmented, or turpentine thinned linseed oil on a previously finished stock. Whatever works and looks best. I'm guessing the desired result is to make the stock look as close to an "authentic" oil finish as it can considering it has already absorbed some plastic. Don't know about you, but I'm not throwing away any of my wood to buy a new stock so I can be 100% "authentic". Before I'll do that I'll buy a "kit" or an original weapon in good condition and clean it up (but that's another process altogether). Already had to buy a real Civil War bayonet because the repro's wouldn't fit the authentic bayonet scabbard I bought that really was made exactly to pattern.

            I have used Linspeed and tru-oil with good results. Apply one coat to the stock with a finger to keep it warm and when the whole stock is covered evenly, I let it sit overnight and repeat the process. After two coats dried well, I buff the stock lightly with 000 steel wool, just enough to take any shine off. One must be careful not to buff off any stain on sharp surfaces or you will need to fix it with a little stain and a Q-tip rolled into a sharp tip. Remove the steel wool residue with a tack cloth. Then start the whole process over again. Two coats, one at a time, then buff the shine off with steel wool. Four coats of Linspeed followed by four of tru oil gives plenty of finish on raw wood. One has to judge the results after buffing off the shine whether or not to proceed any further. Wood previously finished can be refinished just as easily using tru-oil only. The steel wool buffing removes just a tiny bit of the stain and brings out the natural grain of the wood. Can look very nice when finished. If it is desired to seal the stock and make the grain of the wood level with the surface finish, many more applications will be needed. But that's not the question.

            50/50 Linseed oil and trupentine works well too, if a dull finish and open grain look is desired. This mixture also works good with pumice stone on a cotton patch rubbed with the grain of the wood to remove the built up dirt and crud from original or well used repro stocks without harming the "patina".

            L.J. Bach
            ~Southern Cal~
            aka: Lawrence J. Bach

            Comment


            • #81
              Re: Linseed Oil Stocks/ Defarbing Stocks

              Hallo Kamerad!

              "What should the end result of the oil finish look like"

              Long answer:

              It should look like the finishes on originals (that have not blackened with age, absorbed 140 years of dirt from the environment, or were not varnished in 1941, or 1961, or 2001 by some owner trying to "preserve" it).

              Short answer:

              Not like it was sealed, and/or seaked and coated in high gloss spar or polyurethane "varnish" like some modern sporting arms do.

              Curt-Heinrich Schmidt
              Curt Schmidt
              In gleichem Schritt und Tritt, Curt Schmidt

              -Hard and sharp as flint...secret, and self-contained, and solitary as an oyster.
              -Haplogroup R1b M343 (Subclade R1b1a2 M269)
              -Pointless Folksy Wisdom Mess, Oblio Lodge #1
              -Vastly Ignorant
              -Often incorrect, technically, historically, factually.

              Comment


              • #82
                Re: Linseed Oil Stocks/ Defarbing Stocks

                John,

                Thanks for recovering that thread! I am sure Curt liked saving the keystokes!
                I want my weapon to look as the issued weapon would in the 1860's. You can often meet folks who don't know every detail of the war, but they do know firearms. I am going to try the diluted linseed oil after I refinish the stock. I will have all summer to dry it.
                Gregory Deese
                Carolina Rifles-Living History Association

                http://www.carolinrifles.org
                "How can you call yourself a campaigner if you've never campaigned?"-Charles Heath, R. I. P.

                Comment


                • #83
                  TheRifleshoppe - Enfield parts

                  :confused_
                  Well the topic is about your experience with


                  For defarbing my enfield I ordered two barrelbands
                  from Jane & Jess.
                  No I should say, I just paid for. They charged my card via Paypal and I am waiting and waiting.
                  I tried to get in touch with them but there was no reply.

                  So what are your exp. with them
                  Or
                  does one of you lads in the “New World” know them personally and can remind them to answer my calls via e-mail or to fullfill the prepaid order.

                  Regards

                  Ingo Rolletter
                  5th Va
                  Germany

                  Comment


                  • #84
                    Re: TheRifleshoppe??

                    I'm only going on what I know from other's dealings. A couple of people I've known have found them to be difficult. I know of a gunsmith from Texas that refuses to even bother with them.

                    Best advise is to keep at them. They are a legitimate business, so you should recieve your parts eventually.

                    Good luck.
                    [FONT=Century Gothic]Robert Swartz[/FONT]


                    [FONT=Arial Black]"A soldier would grumble in heaven"![/FONT]
                    [FONT=Century Gothic]Ovando J. Hollister, 1st Colorado Volunteers[/FONT]

                    Comment


                    • #85
                      Re: TheRifleshoppe - Enfield parts

                      I know a lot of folks involved in Rev War that have used them. They all said good things about the products but did say service and delivery was very very very, did I say very, slow.
                      [FONT=Times New Roman][b]Tripp Corbin[/b][/FONT]
                      [URL=http://www.westernindependentgrays.org/]Western Independent Grays[/URL]
                      [URL=http://www.armoryguards.org/]Armory Guards[/url]

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                      • #86
                        Re: TheRifleshoppe - Enfield parts

                        Call them live, demand a refund, then go to Lodgewood. That might get you your parts... and eventually your money back.
                        Johan Steele aka Shane Christen C Co, 3rd MN VI
                        SUVCW Camp 48
                        American Legion Post 352
                        [url]http://civilwartalk.com[/url]

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                        • #87
                          Re: TheRifleshoppe - Enfield parts

                          The Rifle Shoppe is one of those businesses that surprises everyone by remaining in business. I have dealt with them for over ten years and when you order, it is hit or miss if you will ever receive what you order. They have an extremely bad reputation with 18th century reenacting and commercial musket builders. Several years ago they announced a complete change in the way they would do business but nothing changed. Extremely long delays, missing items in an order and unending excuses remain the norm.
                          Jim Kindred

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                          • #88
                            Re: TheRifleshoppe - Enfield parts

                            Lodgewoods no bloody better,
                            I ordered parts for a trapdoor in January, 1st shipment took 1 month, included some wrong parts, I sent them back, next shipment took another month, the parts were again wrong, sent them back again to get the correct ones. That was in early march, I just called monday to demand a refund, I wonder if I'll ever get it. Not only did it take forever, they also gave some very sorry excuses when I called, usually once a week. "It hasn't gotten there yet?", "It's in the mail, should be there in a couple days", "It will go out in tomorrows mail", and yes, those responces were in that order. when I finally called for my refund, I was told they didn't have the parts and wouldn't for some time.

                            Needless to say, I will never deal with Lodgewood again.

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                            • #89
                              Re: TheRifleshoppe - Enfield parts

                              Hallo Kameraden!

                              I believe when one places an order with the Rifle Shoppe, how fast or slow the item is received depends upon whether it is "in stock." (and they do not maintain an inventory either)
                              If it is, it arrives.
                              If it is not, one must wait until sufficeint orders have come in to warrant a production batch from the foundry. I have waited 1-2 years on some items.

                              In the wait, they do not answer their phone, return messages, or answer
                              s-mail/SASE inquiries.

                              Also, while their catalog illustrates original guns and parts, what one receives are sand castings with mold seams and sprue. Although clean-up is no big deal, if one orders lock parts, or knive blades or bayonets, they must be hardened and tempered, etc.

                              My last order consisted of a P1853 Enfield hammer to see whether it was a casting/copy of an original (as implied) in the proper size. What I received was a casting of an incorrect, small, Italian repro hammer.

                              I like them best for what their catalog illustrates in picture form, and for the unique and rare "parts" they can offer. Otherwise, expect long waits and no communication, it appears to be their SOP.

                              Curt-Heinrich Schmidt
                              Last edited by Curt Schmidt; 05-06-2004, 12:39 PM.
                              Curt Schmidt
                              In gleichem Schritt und Tritt, Curt Schmidt

                              -Hard and sharp as flint...secret, and self-contained, and solitary as an oyster.
                              -Haplogroup R1b M343 (Subclade R1b1a2 M269)
                              -Pointless Folksy Wisdom Mess, Oblio Lodge #1
                              -Vastly Ignorant
                              -Often incorrect, technically, historically, factually.

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                              • #90
                                Re: TheRifleshoppe - Enfield parts

                                RebYank, I'm suprised at your luck w/ Lodgewood. I know at least three people who have had excellent luck w/ them. One defarb that they said would take 6-8 weeks arrived back at the buyers doorstep in ten days... that was from the date he shipped it off. Thanks for the warning though.
                                Johan Steele aka Shane Christen C Co, 3rd MN VI
                                SUVCW Camp 48
                                American Legion Post 352
                                [url]http://civilwartalk.com[/url]

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