Wool or Wooljean?

[jralley]

I am looking to purchase a Richmond Depot II jacket and was wondering what the difference in materials. Mainly what is the difference between wool and wooljean? Are the the same and if not which is better?


John R. Alley
Northern Virginia

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Wool or Wooljean?

I won't answer for the military fellows on which weaves will be best for the intended project, but here's a quick answer on wool vs. jean.

Wool is a fiber... it can be made up into many different weaves. Wool can become wool broadcloth, wool flannel, wool satin, wool gauze, and many other wool textiles.

Jean is a twilled weave. This means that the weft (filling) threads go under/over a specific number of warp (lengthwise) threads, creating a "pattern" in the fabric. Twilled weaves have a subtle diagonal "line" to them. Jean is a particular type of twill weave. If you have some blue jeans, take a look at the fabric--you'll see this diagonal "line" in the fabric itself. Jean can be woven from wool, or cotton, or silk, or linen (though the last two are *not* something you see often at all).

[Stonewall_Greyfox]

Re: Wool or Wooljean?

John,

Wool would imply 100% wool such as some sort of broadcloth, kersey...etc.

A wooljean would imply a combination of wool and cotton. This combination is found in jeans cloth, cassimere and sattinette.

What unit are you in? It may be good to talk with someone in the unit as to a jacket that meets their unit standard.

PM me if you would like to talk more,

Paul

[Minieball577]

Re: Wool or Wooljean?

Have you seen the term "wooljean" in period usage?

[Gallo de Cielo]

Re: Wool or Wooljean?

I don't know as though "wooljean" was a common term in the period. Most primary sources I've read through tend to refer to that cloth as "jean," "jeans" or "janes." The stuff was woven in all cotton or mix cotton-wool, though I would say that in the majority of households, many folks would reckon it to be the wool-cotton mix (the Texas State Penitentiary at Huntsville would be one example of all-cotton jeans being loomed, typically noted as such in official correspondance: see the Moore thesis).

There are other folks more enlightened than I am but surviving Richmond Depot products (as well as period images of this style of jacket) tend to reflect a fair mixture of all-wool fabrics, like broadcloth and kersey, and wool-cotton fabrics, such as jeans, satinette, and cassimere.

It would be tough to say which is more "correct," as jacket of all styles and descriptions were made (see Neil Rose's wild RD jacket from the SC Relic Room as an example). If you want to base a specific impression on a certain unit during a specific time, then there may be evidence which points to a specific pattern and fabric. If you are going for a more "generic" ANV impression, you may find yourself going in a seperate direction.

Hope this helps.

Kind regards,