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Cleaning My Weapon
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Re: field cleaning muskets
One of the ways I keep my musket rust free, is too soak a small rag with gun oil and keep it in my haversack with the rest of my gun cleaning supplies. Whenever you go to bed or the environment becomes more moist, just wipe down your musket with it and it will help prevent rust. If you go get rust, then one of the best ways I found was to use ash from the fire to help remove it. Hope this helps some!Ryan Stull
37th NC Co B
stull6@charter.net
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Re: field cleaning muskets
Hello,
I to have used a cloth with oil on the lock plate. Also signs of rust pop out in which time ash from your fire with a touch or water will take care of that.
Your Servant,
K.J. Reihl[B][FONT="Book Antiqua"][SIZE="4"]Kenneth J. Reihl[/SIZE][/FONT][/B]
[SIZE="3"][COLOR="DimGray"][B][FONT="Comic Sans MS"]12th Alabama Infantry, Company C[/FONT][/B][/SIZE][/COLOR]
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Re: field cleaning muskets
[QUOTE=privstull]soak a small rag with gun oil and keep it in my haversack with the rest of my gun cleaning supplies. [QUOTE]
Yuck. My food tastes bad enough as it is. You might be better served keeping sich things in your knapsack or the implement pouch on your cartridge box.
Phil CampbellPhil Campbell
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Re: field cleaning muskets
Think of carrying an old - used toothbrush too. I use this around the nipple and in the tight spots of the hammer on my Belgian conversion. This "tool" also comes in handy when I convert this musket to flint too.
Just be sure to keep the cleaning kit and tolietry kit in a separate bag you know by feel, otherwise fumbling for it in the dark.... you get the idea.
Jim Ross
Hallo Herr Jim! Just a reminder, please... While your tip is very useful and functional for "at home" workbench or garage cleaning, please keep in mind that is the AC Forum- a website for the Authentic Civil War Living Historian. Unless you are making a case, and providing documentation for the PEC use by CW soldiers having and using their toothbrushes- this can cross the line to "farbism" and/or reenactorism" not encouraged by this Forum. Thanks. Curt-Heinrich SchmidtLast edited by Curt Schmidt; 06-18-2004, 05:48 PM.James Ross
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Cleanin' The rifle
Greetings all,
As I am writing this, I 'm presently cleaning my musket. I just got back from an event after lending it to someone and it's a disaster on the outside. This is my tenth season and I have never had a problem cleaning my rifle. However, I'm always curious about other people's methods for cleaning their weapon, especially when it comes to the finish on the metal. No matter how hard I scrub, scour or buff it never comes out very bright, it's always kinda dull. Many of my pards have given me their advice over the years, but it never really makes a difference. So without dragging this out anymore: What's your favorite method of cleaning your rifle when not in the field? Tips, tricks?
Thanks,
Pierre, please take Bernard's advice and use the search function. - Mike ChapmanLast edited by dusty27; 07-14-2004, 08:19 PM.Pierre King
27th Conn.
1st Minnesota
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Re: Cleanin' The rifle
You're probably gonna get some responses saying this has been covered "X" number of times in the past and you should use the search function. While that isn't a bad place to point you;
I use hot water down the barrel, with a piece of leather over the cone, until it comes out clear. Then one or two dry patches (make sure they don't stick on the way down), followed by patches with either olive (sweet) oil or Ballistol, then more dry til the patches come out clean. I remove the barrel and hardware and oil the stock, then use a fine metal brush to get off any heavy rust, then oil the metal parts and re-assemble. For the cone, I drop it in heated peroxide, then dry, lightly oil and reseat.
I believe I've seen others refer to using 0000 steel wool to remove rust from the barrel (might want to check that search function on that one, though).Bernard Biederman
30th OVI
Co. B
Member of Ewing's Foot Cavalry
Outpost III
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Removing a nipple
I recently purchased a used Euroarms 1841 Mississippi Rifle. I don't reckon that I really needed it, but the price was good, and I figured that it might be useful at a demo or as a skirmisher's gun. I have had no problems with it, and it's a great shooter, but there is a problem with removing the nipple for cleaning....Basically, it wont unscrew past a couple of threads. I would like to totally remove it, but the '41 tool that was built for it can't do the job, and I can't get a regular musket wrench to grip it due to the snail drum. I don't want to damage the gun, so I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on removing this rather obstinate nipple.
All advice is welcome!
Keith Bragg
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Re: Removing a nipple
Try a 1/4 inch socket sized to accept a allen wrench (3/8 is good). Put the drive end over the cone and use the allen wrench inserted in the socket to remove the cone.Jim Mayo
Portsmouth Rifles, Company G, 9th Va. Inf.
CW Show and Tell Site
http://www.angelfire.com/ma4/j_mayo/index.html
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Re: Removing a nipple
Your local gun shop should carry a nifty "T-Tool" type nipple wrench. You can get them for square or parallel-sided cones. They fit over the top, so they clear the bolster, and they give you excellent torque to pull even the stickiest cones out. You could also try cranking it out as far as it will go and squirting some Hoppes BP solvent in through the hole. Sounds like you may be binding up on some fouling near the bottom of the threads.Michael McComas
drudge-errant
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Fouled up Springfield
Gents,
After several rty's and a couple hundred dollars I have just aboput given up on fixing a Springfield I bought off the forums @ 2 years ago. here's the problem, and any suggestions on how to fix it, (besides burning the stock for a campfire, and the barrel for a axle on a go cart) would be greatly appreciated.
Once I got the musket I took it apart for inspection (broke the first rule of inspecting it before purchase). Lo and behold, someone had tried to glass bed the gun!! Poor job too. The interior of the stock was a mess. I found the rammer was cut down about 8 inches too when I pulled it.
Well, with the stock a complete mess, I got Lodgewood to get me a new one, new bands, springs and a rammer. Got it home, used Curt-Heinrich's formula for the staining of the stock, hand rubbed the oil etc. Looked great. Problem is, the rammer is so tight that the thing will only go in about 10 inches. the ramrod channel seems to be the problem, and the bands are hanging up the rammer also, yet Lodgewood claims the stock and bands are correct. I am not good enough a craftsman to want and rechannel that thing myself and ruin an expensive stock. And i am not slinging anything at lodgewood as i have had numerous successful dealings with them for several years. I am about to chalk this one up to being a Jonah and buy a new gun. Suggestions?
Layton Pennington[FONT=Times New Roman]Layton Pennington[/FONT]
Member, Company of Military Historians
Member, Society for Military History
Life member, SCV
Life member: Veterans of Foreign Wars,
American Legion, Disabled American Veterans
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