Enfield Problem

[stx]

So here's the story. About a year and a half, maybe two, years ago I finally bought my rifle. Unfortunatly I bought it from Fall Creek. One of my bigger mistakes in reenacting. First and last time I even bought anything from them. It's a Euroarms, and the main reason I bought that particular one was price. After using it twice I had to get the nipple hole re-tapped. I've also had problems with the barrel bands and the mainspring is extremly tight, no matter how much I use it or grease it it remains strong. I was told by a gunsmith there really wasn't much I could do about it. When doing my last of the season cleaning today I noticed a rather large crack in the wood of the gun right next to the lock. I've attached pictures with arrows on the crack. it looks as though the mainspring has pushed through the wood. My question is a) is this normal (which I'm no gunsmith but it sure doesn't look normal to me) and b) what do I do with it now. Is there anyway I can repair it, if I fix the wood will it crack again, etc. Any help would be appreciated.

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Enfield Problem

Hallo!

Actually...

It is not an uncommon "feature" of EuroArms works. I had a spare EuroArms stock leaning in a corner and it looks identical to your pictures.

While I hate to make diagnoses with out the gun in my hand- IMHO what you have is not a function of a "tight" mainspring but rather the way the "dupli-carver" multiple stock-making machinery is set up at EuroArms.
What the machine has done is create a paper-thin space between the mortising for the barrel channel, lock, and ramrod hole that either cracks, splits, or forms an elongated "hole."

Functionally, it does not harm anything, although it may be an early warning that another piece may (or may not) break off.
It can be "fixed' but that is a bit complicated as may involve building sticky tape or Play-Dough "dams" to keep epoxy from running where one does not want it in the lock mortise or worse yet the ramrod hole. Then sanding the cured epoxy smooth and maybe tinting with stain and oil. IMHO, it may be beyond the "skill" of the the average Reenactor and not "worth it" to have a professional do it.

By "tight" mainspring I assume you mean the amount of "pull" required to half-cock, full-cock, or to trip the lock from full-cock and fire?
That is a lengthier discussion as it involves a number of inter-related relationships and parts- and at the moment I am not recalling if I posted a list of lock "cocking" problems here or on another board recently.

Italian reproduction firearms are built to varying degrees of not only the presence or absence of Quality Control, but also numerous and random issues of fit, finish, workmanship, fitting, heat treating, hardening, tempering, casting, etc., etc. Rarely, does one come off the assembly line that does not need "something."
But due to the varying degrees of QC the Italians both sell and are allowed to get away with - opening the box of an Italian repro can be like opening a box of chocolates.
In general, many need some adjustment, accomodation, tinkering, fiddling, or tuning to function at their optimal best.

Curt

[Gary of CA]

Re: Enfield Problem

The mainspring can be filed or ground, then polished and retempered. Jack Brooks (a Colorado gunsmith) does this in modifying locks. He had us modify our 1760 era locks to appear like an 1820 British import lock with a roller on the frizzen spring.

Comrade Curt described the method to fix the stock. You build a dam (lockside so that an excess is in the barrel channel of the stock), pour in your accraglas and then with a chisel and modified rattail file (or even a dremel) to remove the excess so your barrel drops in.

BTW, you might want to contact Log Cabin Shop in Lodi for a competent gun builder who can do the lockwork for you. Alternatively, someone at Conner Prairie (Fishers, Indiana) can. They hold an ArmsMaking Workshop (call Bonnie Shea) and may be able to find you a smith who can do it for you.

[Craig L Barry]

Re: Enfield Problem

This is really not a problem because you bought your Enfield from Fall Creek, per se. Whatever your other issues are with the gear you bought there may be, the Enfield is like that because of how the stock mortise was cut, which was done by a stock cutting machine in Italy. The barrels are a bit oversized, and the tolerances are quite tight. This is not uncommon, and it will not affect the functionality of the weapon unless it gets a lot worse. If the mainspring being too tight is a problem, count yourself lucky because most repro investment cast springs will relax a bit in year or two, and the problem is generally a mainspring that is too soft. It may be your choice of words, but I get the sense that it is not the mainspring, but rather "friction" in the lock making it stiff and affecting the function. To wit, I have a very strong original mainspring in my Enfield and I guarantee it is much stronger than the Euroarms spring. However, the action is very smooth and fluid. It's almost like I built that lock myself part by part by hand...which in fact, I did. Everything has to work together in a tight space.

I would remove the mainspring and take the lock apart then polish off any burrs or rough spots with light sanding. Remove the tumbler and be sure there is free movement in the lock plate. If not, polish the arbor shaft and apply a light coat of lithium grease, which is heat resistant. Reassemble the lock taking care to put a dab of grease on any points of contact like the tumbler and sear, and the stirrup where it meets the mainspring, and where it rests in the tumbler and so on. Do not over tighten the screws, especially the sear screw.The sear should move freely up and down. Cycle the lock a couple times by cocking and releasing the hammer. If the function is smooth (as it should be) then try it in the gun. If it is stiff, then you know the real problem...Or what I suspect the problem to be.

The lock mortise is often cut by the stockmaker without adequate room for the lock to cycle. It may be necessary to "fit" the lock assembly in the stock mortise by carefully filing and sanding the friction points. You can determine where those are by putting some lamp black or some grease on the outside surface of the lock parts and re-installing the lock, then cycling it a few times. Remove it and see where the moving parts are hitting the wood, and carefully sand or file the wood down in those places. Do not remove too much wood as it can not be easily replaced. I have had to do this many times on repro firearms, not just EoA and not only Enfields. All of them are slapped together and pushed out the door like something made in the 1860s by PS Justice or Whitneyville Armory...

[stx]

Re: Enfield Problem

Curt, yes I do mean the amount of pull needed does seem excessive, and it's not very smooth. I'll try taking it apart like Mr. Barry suggested. Will I need some sort of clamp for the mainspring? Also, I'm a little confused on how to construct this "dam".

[C.R. Henderson]

Re: Enfield Problem

I have a two Euroarms that have the same gap in the wood- which from the barrel channel looks like a hole through to the lock mortise. It is not, nor has it ever been, a problem, rather where the machinery goes through this paper thin part of wood. As far as taking the lock apart, you could either spend the money on a mainspring vise (which if you don't take it apart in the field, you don't really need it) or you could use a pair of vise grips. I've used this technique many times and have never had a problem getting the mainspring cinched down and pulled out.

P.S. One of those Euroarms has a 4 digit serial number!

[Craig L Barry]

Re: Enfield Problem

Forget the epoxy dam, the potential there for a mess is fairly high. It will just break up again anyway. Do the lock maintenance items suggested and be sure there is room in the stock for the free movement of the sear, and that the sear screw is not overtightened. Also be sure the lock plate is not over-tightened in the stock either. Things have to move around in there which takes tension but not too much tension. Too much just makes the lock function all stiff. I really think that is your problem

For a mainspring vice in a pinch, cock the hammer...use both hands if necessary for that mighty and manly Euroarms investment cast mainspring, then slip an open ended wrench over both arms of the mainspring about in the middle so it is snug and release the hammer. Viola...instant mainspring vice. The mainspring should slide right off, take care not to lose the tumbler link which some times likes to come along with the mainspring.

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Enfield Problem

Hallo!

As I said, an epoxy repair may not be within every lad's skill set, and besides there really is no functional need for the "repair."
IMHO.... ignore it.

And as shared... a mainspring vise is a nice "tool" to have. But any "none moving" type pliers or tools work nearly as well as already shared... even a crescent wrench.

Since I looked it up, I will post a list of "lock" type issues:

1. length of the sear bar and the depth of the sear mortising causing binding

2. the sear being improperly hardened, and/or having had its "nose" wear so that it is no longer a fit or "match" for the size and shape of the full-cock or half-cock notch in the tumbler

3. the tumbler being improperly hardened so that the full-cock and half-cock notches have worn to the point that their shape no long catches and "holds" the nose of the sear

4. the lock screw holding the sear to the lockplate is too tight causing binding of the sear

5. the bridle screws are too tight cause the sear to bind under the bridle

6. the sear has a crack and is not flexing properly to snap and hold the nose of the sear in the tumbler notches

7. the mainspring is hanging up on the lock mortising and not allowing the tumbler to rotate properly

8. if there is a detent (fly) on the tumbler, it is worn or malfunctioning and not allowing the sear nose to catch and hold properly. (Not applicable to "muskets.")

9. the lock plate screws are too tight, causing the mainspring, bridle, or sear to bind.

10. the mainspring has a crack and does not power the tumbler to seek the sear nose in its notches properly

11. The trigger bar is too high not allowing the sear to drop and therefore hit the tumbler notches properly.

12. If stored without grease or oiled lock internals, lock parts may have rusted and fused in a humid environment

13. One or more of the above acting in concert...


If.... IF, your only problem is that the Italians have not tempered the mainspring down and it is "too hard" requiring too much hammer pull to compress it in the cocking cycle or too much "trigger" pull poundage to release it from full-cock and fire off the gun...

IMHO, I would suggest a replacement mainspring as the easiest and cheapest solution.

I do not know your experience or expectation of "pull," but usually the Italian cast mainsprings tend to be "'rubbery" and "weakish' (without getting into a discussion of compression curves, etc.,) But I do know a fair number of two handed "bear traps."

There are ways to "lighten" a spring by carefully grinding the "elbow" a little before it gets warm cooling in cold water to prevent heating, and repeating... trial and error. But for the inexperienced there is usually more error and a ruined spring or one set up with micro-scratches that will turn into fractures sometime somewhere down the road and crack the spring- so I advise against "messing" with trying to adjust the spring compression-(or paying someone if a replacement spring solves the problem- OR any of the advise others and I have shared.)

Curt

[stx]

Re: Enfield Problem

I took the lock completly apart and I was able to make a lot of improvements based on your suggestions. I noticed the hole which the tumbler goes through was either two small or the tumbler piece was mishappen, so I was able to make the hole bigger with a dremmel, which helped enormously. I also think I've been over tightening the lock to the butt so I've lossened those screws up too. I have a relative whose a carpenter so I'm gonna take it to him and see if he can do anything with the epoxy. If not I'll just live with it. Thanks for everyones help, my rifle has improved greatly.

[lukegilly13]

Re: Enfield Problem

My father's business is a Euroarms of America dealer. Although he is not a major supplier, it gives me access to replacement parts and good diagrams. It also gives me access to a couple of pretty good 'smiths. I don't know what they can do, but if you like I can call them for you on Tuesday and tell them of this re-occuring problem. Usually they are very helpful/informative. I don't know that they will offer any real help, BUT it may be worth a try. I see that you have improved it and probably will be much happier with it. Here is some advice given to me by someone who works at the Winchester, VA factory. Remove all metal parts from the stock and spray the bedding (and all inside) with spray silicone. This helpts prevent it from taking on water quickly and causing expanding around tightened screws and bolts. Also, when reassebling your rifle after cleaning, try putting the bands back on first before anything else. Sometimes it takes the pressure off the barrel and allows them to go on more easily. The band problem sometimes corrects itself after they have been heated from rapid firing and from repeated use. Hope this is helpful and good luck working with it!

[Craig L Barry]

Re: Enfield Problem

There you go, glad you could improve the function of the lock. Once you have done this a time or two the anxiety over disassembly and re-assembly goes away. Generally, a lock should be torn down like this once a year, and such things as ill fitting parts or too much friction addressed as items of maintenance. The Moto-dremel is a gift from the gods, is it not? It makes this kind of job much easier.

The lock in my Enfield is original, the various parts handmade 146 years ago, and it works like a charm. It may need a new mainspring in about 50 years or so, and I have instructed my son who will be a geriatric by that time to take care of this as it will be his problem by then. Polishing and tuning the lock greatly improves the function, and once done is easy to maintain. A properly tuned and timed lock makes any firearm a pleasure to shoot.