Living off the saddle

[SouthernFed]

We All do it different.
What are your thoughts on this on 2,3,4,5 days march ? What has worked and didn't for both you and your mount personal care of you both? What do you carry? Food on the ride? Shelter and such?
Ron Orange
SouthernFed

[Linneus Ahearn]

Re: Living off the saddle

We All do it different.
What are your thoughts on this on 2,3,4,5 days march ? What has worked and didn't for both you and your mount personal care of you both? What do you carry? Food on the ride? Shelter and such?
Ron Orange
SouthernFed

Some of the things I have learned to bring are two rags, a length of rope and some leather for repairs and emergencies.

Also, on long rides, getting off the horse for 10 minutes each hour and walking is a good precaution for both yourself and your horse.

The rest of your supplies depends on the time of year.

If you are on a lengthy march, bring a wagon because the locals frown on raids of their storehouses and crops. :wink_smil

[GBaylor]

Re: Living off the saddle

The biggest problem is forage (hay). Like Lin says, it ain't cool to steal hay from farmer Brown without his knowledge. I'm also sure he doesn't take Confederate script.

Back in the war, the Confederate cavalry often went without forage for days and their mounts deteriorated as a consequence. In the here and now, though, we wouldn't think of doing that to our horses. Other than forage, you can pack enough for a 5 day march no problem.

John Sweeney

[Tom Craig]

Re: Living off the saddle

Ron,
My best advice is to stick as close as possible to the gear and food that was issued. There are lots of little things that you could bring (especially "emergency" stuff like Linn mentioned) but over all they were issued what they needed, and it worked relatively well for them.

The one area you may wish to take liberty in is horse care. A small emergency med kit for your beast and perhaps some electrolites if you are out in warm weather or in high athletic demand.

Take care,
Tom

Tom, please sign your full name to all posts - Mike Chapman

[Charles Heath]

Re: Living off the saddle for one event.

Ron,

This most likely won't fully answer your question, and it may raise a few more. Here's a slightly edited little blurb originally published in two in spite of many complaints, death threats, and promises to quit the hobby. It was put together for a newsletter not long after a mostly campaign cavalry effort in Ohio. It was 3-4 days as I recall. It was written for a far less sophisticated readership than the A-C, so keep that in mind, but certain elements still apply.

================================================== ==

Equipment Performance Review from Morgan's Raid

"All of us have slightly different kit, to include horse furniture, so it may be useful from time to time to examine what was brought to an event, why we brought it, and how it performed, and problems encountered. This is in no particular order. The maker, if known, is listed. Your mileage may vary.

Pocket Knife (Kissing Cranes) - The venerable modified pocket knife from the usual vendors (this one came from the late Old Sutler John in Sept. 1997) saw service 3-4 times each day for cutting, scraping, cleaning, making tooth picks, dog tent pegs, shebang props, and slicing. A sharp pocketknife is a safe tool, and it is hard to imagine going to the field without one. The Boys of 61-'65 treasured theirs. These are cheap (around $13), plentiful, conform well with several hundred relic knives with ferrous bolsters and rivets found on the steamboat Arabia sunk in 1856, and the only modification truly needed is the removal of "Germany." These knives have surprisingly good quality steel, and will hold an edge in spite of the typical use and abuse in the field.

Hemp Twine (JoAnn Fabrics) - When you need it you need it, and hemp is as strong and resilient as ever. Now that Hempworks has good products in many sizes from thread to dang near mooring hawser, a few feet in a small hank is a handy period pocket trash item that is good for erecting shebangs, repairing tack, or whatever string is for. Most craft stores and some Wal-Marts carry hemp cordage in a variety of sizes.

Folding Corkscrew (Original, Bill MacIntosh) - The corkscrew makes a great emergency hoof pick, nail cleaner, gimlet, sewing awl, and leather punch. The same fellow who thinks you are a complete idgit for having such a device on yer person will praise you to the ends of the Earth when his canteen stopper can only be removed by one thing other than a drill bit.

Matchsafe (Original) & Matches - Most everyone should carry a matchsafe and at least 6-8 strike anywhere matches. Feel free to call them matches, because they did, too, at least in period newspaper advertisements. Obviously, the matches we have today do not resemble the non-safety strip matches (often sold in little wood tubes just like fish hooks used to be marketed), but red strike anywhere's usually suffice. Matchsafes run in price from $5 to well over $100, but the well worn brass hinged model with or without striker is typically under $20. The cute little tin knapsack variety, like those from Diamond match, are generally deemed to be postwar no matter how nice they seem to be. Dang!

Housewife (Unknown) - The slimmed down sewing kit version with about 3 needles, 12 buttons, a plug of black resin wax, and a few feet of cotton and linen thread. This came in handy to repair 2 center-busted paperpacked tin cuff buttons, and resew a trouser seat. This is also a good source for needles when a boil or blister is to be lanced. Don't forget to sanitize the needle via fire before performing surgery. Many modern and reproduction housewives are bulky (also known as a Mennonite roll), and could lose a few ounces here and there.

Lye soap (Sutler Row) - About 2-3 ounces is more enough for a weekend along with a small piece of wool flannel for washing away the grit, grime, and accumulated sap. It will burn your eyes, but it will clean away all sorts of things modern soaps miss. A chunk or bar is typically under 1 dollar, and can be cut with a large knife or razor saw at home to divide up amongst the pards.

Mess Rag (cheap wool eBay blanket cut up) - An 8-inch square of ugly gray wool blanket is a good mess rag. It's a decent pot lifter, handle grabber, canteen half scrubber, and so forth. It looks like Hell, but it serves a purpose, and can always make the ultimate sacrifice at the impromptu sinks.

Huck Towel (Boyd Miles) - These are common and useful. A huck towel is a good thing to dry, clean, or even use as a bandage or tourniquet, if needed. Most craft stores still carry it, and you'll recall the appearance from those "endless roll" hand towels in the public restrooms at gas stations most everywhere before the blow and go machines were installed. Speaking of such, in a pinch, a huck towel can be carefully cut and used for wiping. Jo Ann Fabrics carries this as "Huckabuck."

Horse shoe nails (Capewell) - Why did I bring 18? Heck, I don't know. I figured six per hoof, at three hooves, would be just about right. Every wonder what "F.O." stands for? Yes, Flat Out. What did you think it meant? It's the only way I can remember which way the nails go, and I'm not even doing any shoeing.

Horse shoes (Diamond) - Didn't lose a single one but brought three. Two were pre-fitted. Why? Figured by about day number 3, some folks would be running out of shoes to go on that nice "horsey that never loses shoes." Gave one away to a nice little kid on the side of the road. A pair of horse shoes can make both a cinch block, and a hammer to tighten up a lose shoe in the field. Those 1942 US Army Cavalry training films from Vintage Video do come in handy once in a while. (Now available on DVD.)

Macon Arsenal Cap Pouch (Butch Myers) - As an exact copy of the original, it has neither fleece, nipple pick, nor nipple pick loop, which is another confederate manufactured gear disadvantage. These marqued pouches were also used for pistol cartridges, but on this trip it was for the 40 pistol percussion caps, which were kept wrapped in a small piece of wool flannel to prevent loss. It's nice confederate manufactured gear it out there, and readily available. Now, if I can ever figure out how to make good pistol cartridges....

Holster (Butch Myers) - The repro of a confederate manufactured .36 cal. Colt Navy plug holster worked well on either right or left side during its maiden voyage, although it is designed to be worn on the right side, per the original. The patent enamel finish began to wear slightly, also per the original from which it was copied. This sort of equipment is normally not found on sutler row.

Waist belt (Johan) - The russet double roller buckle billet belt was the perfect match for the confederate manufactured holster and Macon arsenal cap pouch. It performed this role very well, as always; however, it would need the addition of an 1859 Stuart patent saber hanger to carry the butter knife. I have one. I can't bring myself to use it.

Havesack (Unk.) - Although pathetically greasy black in appearance, it is a blue, brown, and cream striped haversack similar to the pillow ticking/home made haversacks made by various patriotic sewing circles and given to the troops in the absence of something better from the central government. The addition of this piece adds to the home supplied nature of the Kentucky cavalry. Other than carrying a little bacon and the tin cup, it was purely decorative in nature on this trip.

Bacon (Hemp's Meats) - Not knowing the subsistence reliability, and having had some less than satisfactory experiences in the past, I brought 2 pounds of pepper cured, smoked, slab bacon from Hemp's meats. Other than one man making good use of a small piece of fat for the purpose of lubricating his longarm, and rubbing some on horse scraps and cuts, this was probably the most incredibly useless thing I carried the entire trip; however, I came rather close to helping the "firebuilding challenged" folks next door use bacon fat and paper to make a campfire.

Federal Issue Cup, Type I (Pat Cunningham) - The big old dipped tin federal issue cups are nice for drinking, digging, and cooking, but they really do get in the way on a horse. I suppose that's why the general rule of thumb for non-dug relic cavalry tin cups tends to run to the smaller or medium cups rather than the big dippers. That's just worth of mouth campfire babble, and we know what that means. This is a quandary not readily solved by the too small cup, but there may be something out there in the way of the WisVet Smith, Clark, or even the variouis runs of the smaller, inverse conical, profile Federal Issue, Type II cup. As an experiment, for about half the ride, I put the cup on the off side bottom saddle bag strap per the photograph in EOG-US, and found it to be, as suspected, highly unsatisfactory in either the open front, or open back, positions. Methinks, as do others, that the photograph reflects a collector's whim rather than a functional location for hanging a tin cup. Time to rethink a cavalry tin cup.

Canteen Strap (Butch Myers) - The web strap reflected wartime leather shortages, and with over 150 days of field service it is starting to show appropriate wear and tear. One day it will fall into dust. Technically, it is a restored original, but that's neither here nor there. The slight adjustment allowed on the leather tabs keeps the canteen from rubbing on the saddle rawhide, thus preventing additional wear on the saddle. Canteens, like haversacks, were normally, usually, generally, worn on the person, and not on the saddle. The short straps and clip was adopted during the Indian Wars era. Dismounting and walking several miles does tend to develop a thirst.

Drum canteen (Mark Latham) - The confederate manufactured tin drum canteen required a stopper replacement just prior to the event, as the last several events have been "made do" with a split cork just waiting to get stuck in the spout. This dipped canteen is relatively new with just 3 years service, and shows no signs of leaking (yet) nor rust. (Sprung a pin hole leak not 2 events after this was written - Dang it!)

Federal Issue Shirt (Nick ************) - This wool flannel (not cotton) contract variant shirt is comfortable; however, there's a point being made with a smattering of federal equipment in the mix of civilian and confederate, in that Morgan's men were able to make some use of captured uniforms and equipment. On a personal note, this shirt is among the most comfortable I have ever worn due to the wicking nature of wool, and the soft flannel. I can readily understand why men wrote home asking, yea begging, for wool flannel shirts since they are cool in the heat, dry in the wet, and warm when the temps cool down for the evening, and few bedding arrangements suck worse than going to sleep with a sopping wet homespun cotton or osnaburg shirt. This shirt popped the centers from two of the tiny paperback tin cuff buttons (not sure why), and the only disadvantage I can see to this shirt is the scant visual comparison with the sorta-made-up uniforms in some of legendary director John Ford's movies. Thankfully, other colors, based on surviving tan, red, and gray originals, are available for those who don't like the domet itchy-scratchy model. Did I mention it's comfortable?

Drawers (Nancy Eddins) - The canton flannel drawers work as well in 2003 as they did in 1863. They are comfortable and wick moisture from the skin to the wool or jeanwool in the trousers. This particular pair of drawers have seen heavy service (sometimes as much as 3-4 days per week for several months in a row) since June 1998, they are just about worn plum out, and have maybe 15-20 more service days remaining. They are absolutely disgusting, which only fair wear and tear can accomplish.

Canteen half (Unknown) - Until I did cavalry, I never realized one of these will fit into a saddle bag instead of the haversack. Until I stuck my hand into a saddle bag one dark night and found the sharp edge, I didn't realize why folks would turn them a certain way to prevent such "Great Awakenings," either. As nasty as they look, this is one piece of mess equipment that can easily be sanitized by fire, and has a multitude of uses from grinding coffee (takes two nested), sewing "palm," a tool for pushing in twig tent stakes, cooking, eating, candleholding, noisemaking, and digging. The best ones are those that come from unsoldering (by fire) two separate the halves from a non-mission capable canteen. Note: Don't try this separating by fire technique with a wooden canteen.

Fork (Original) - The raw steel three-tined bone handle fork stayed in reserve all weekend. Didn't even need to use it as a handle for the canteen half in lieu of a green stick. For those who get all bent out of shape about such things, two tined forks were still around, and four tined forks were "all the rage" with folks buying fine silver just prior to the war. All three types are found by relic hunters in campsites. There's a nice 1850's non-dug set of silverware on permanent display in Henrico County, Va., for the tine doubting Thomases amongst us.

Blanket (Original) - Most people would not carry nor use an original blanket, but it was due for one last trip to the field before being retired. Being a rough combination of wool weft on cotton warp, it may have not been the best choice, but it functioned well to wick away the moisture on the horse's back, provide cushion for the saddle, and as a sleeping blanket for the rider. At the end of the day, it is important to get these things hung up and dried off, and then hover over a fire the next morning to dry them a bit more. Having changed from an all wool civilian blanket to this blanket for Morgan's Raid, I am not sure if the rolled and hemmed ends didn't somehow contribute to a rectangular hot spot on my critter's back. This was located just behind the cantle. I'm assuming it was either this, the crupper, the cantle roll, or the saddle itself. First time that has happened, and I'm usually pretty good about brushing the blanket, grooming the saddle area, and shifting the blanket twice to lay down the horse hairs. This is an area for further study.

Floor Cloth (Drew Martin) - That blue and cream checkerboard rolled up cloth thingie hanging on the cantle really is a good period reproduction of a common mid-19th century floor cloth. It's also a nice example of a confederate (or late war western federal) foraged item from a household to substitute for a lack of issue tarred/painted ground cloths and/or gum blankets. A number of folks think it is a plastic sheet, um, well, no, but it does manage to keep things relatively dry, and at the same time make a confederate shortage item statement.

Army Cap - This was a nice accent to contrast with the civilian jacket, and other non-military items.

Jacket (Marino)- The choice of jackets seen at the event ranged from civilian clothing to Diggs' (Malvern Hill, 1862) jackets to C&C specials to federal sack coats to Richmond Depot type II and beyond. It was a heck of a mix. Settled on a civilian coat. Pockets sure come in handy. It served well, and provided for something different than is normally seen in the cavalry ranks.

Trousers (County Cloth) - Central government issue pants of medium jeancloth worked well in the field were common from late 1862-1865 and the missed stitches in the seat were finally repaired. It's nice to have a vent hole, but one never knows when it may suddenly expand.

Suspenders (Nick ************) - I rarely wear suspenders or braces and typically opt for a waistbelt, but they were no trouble this time around, and the wider suspenders prevent the common shoulder soreness of the narrow variety. Looking around at the post-war variety of hold-up-yer-pants-gear at Morgan's Raid, perhaps a brief article on period suspenders, the correct use of elastic (yes, really), and proper buckles could prove somewhat useful.

Saddle '59 Mac (Tom Smith) - This saddle did real well, and it fits Sebastian's broader back better than the original 19th century civilian saddle I sometimes use. The Mac is a comfortable saddle for man and beast. This was the biggest and most visible concession to federal equipment.

Civilian reins (Doug Kidd) - Added to the confederate impression with the russet finish and black japanned horseshoe buckles instead of the standard federal issue sewn-on black reins.

CS Bridle (Doug Kidd) - One of several confederate use bridles offered by Border States Leather, it functioned well, and the six buckle bridle added to the confederate impression. How this bridle adjusts to fit everything from a big headed draft mule to a TWH, I'll never know.

Western Troopers Bit (Doug Kidd) - This long shanked bit is identical to the type issued to western theatre confederate cavalry, and could have been in use in great numbers by Morgan's men.

Curb Chain w/hooks (Doug Kidd) - The blued civilian curb chain sans safe was abrasive to the horse's jaw, and one of the curb chain hooks fell off, necessitating the use of one of the common but wrong modern curb chains.

Single Ring 1863 CS Halter (Doug Kidd) - This worked well, and had a distinctive it's-not-federal look. Although a CS issue item, this style halter was eventually adopted by the US Army post war and was used through at least World War I on pack mules.

Federal crupper (Doug Kidd) - With Sebastian's high withers, this was probably not needed, because the saddle isn't going to ride up when going downhill the way it would on a mule or a horse with low withers. In any case, it does reduce the chance of saddle twist if the girth is loosened due to water loss, etc.

Russet civilian breast strap (Doug Kidd) - Probably the best safety item next to the surcingle. It keeps the saddle from twisting, and prevents it from sliding off the hind end of the horse.

Hemp lead line (Hempworks thru Doug Kidd) - The actual issue item probably untwisted and retwisted like the reproductions. It has "memory," and returnes to the original shape nicely. It held up well, and provided yet another example of CS issue gear in the impression package.

Original curry comb (Doug Kidd) - Good for cleaning the horse brush, and breaking up the mud. Contrary to popular myth, the curry combs with tail and mane combs are starting to be found in cw relic collections in great numbers, as people debunk the they didn't-have-combs-back-then-myth.. Glad I didn't drill out the rivets and remove it from mine.

Federal Issue Brush (Doug Kidd) - Doug's brush is not quite there, but is better than 95% of the brushes on the market, and cheaper than the $80 hard to find British imports. It will have to do for a while. The bristle is a medium grade, so the curry comb has to be used for the really muddy spots.

Hoof pick (Arcade Blacksmith)- The blacksmith made reproduction civilian "gate hook" style hoof pick (under $10) is lighter than less expensive than the federal issue folding combination hammer and hoof pick ($36), and came in handy at least twice each day for its intended maintenance purpose. This is a good CS item, and no doubt something good to use for the western federal impression, particularly in the Carolinas Campaign. It sure beats whipping out the bent screwdriver, or the plastic handled hoof pick from Tractor Supply, both of which are commonly seen in the cav camps.

Civilian workman's shoes (Robert Land) - These shoes have held up well for three seasons, and provide a comfortable alternative to boots. They also add to the reb impression because they are made quite differently than the typical federal issue bootee.

Wool socks (Chris Daley) - These hand knit wool socks have held up for several years in rotation with other socks of similar quality. Nothing beats wool socks, especially in wet conditions. I took two pair, and changed them only out one time.

Saddle bags (Dave Carrico) '59 Mac Saddle Bags - Instead of taking the big civilian bags and securing them with a surcingle, I opted for the smaller federal bags under the assumption they'd have come along with the saddle anyway. There was ample room for most things that needed to go into the bags, including the spare horseshoes and nails.

Surcingle (Hank Kluin) The F. Burgess federal issue surcingle is all wool, and has an elastic characteristic not found in the cotton CS issue surcingle or some of the other brands of federal surcingle. A second one would be good for a critter, as seen in so many period photographs.

Girth (Tom Smith) - Getting old and showing wear. Probably needs to be replaced. No flies on Tom, as this saddle saw a lot of use by a Georgia boy long before I bought it.

Stirrups (Doug Kidd) - The open bent-wood stirrups without the hoods represent some of the mid-to-late war modifications. As much as they have been soaked with rain, streamwater, and puddles, it's surprising the bottom hasn't busted off the transom.

Coat Straps (Tom Smith) - Three coat straps served well. Probably should have brought six, even though they weren't needed.

Civilian spurs (Original) - Worked fine, probably don't need them at all, since they only have a "spur" about the size of a garden pea, and no rowels. These are attached with cut down roller buckle knapsack coat straps for use as spur straps.

German silver case with toothpowder (Unk. Rev War vendor) - This is a great way to tote toothpowder, or baking soda (although post CW) for those who don't want to search out period dentrifices, such as pulverized charcoal. Wish it was half the 2.5 x 3.5 inch size.

Bone handle tooth brushes (Unknown) - Why I brought two, I'll never know, but they are good for brushing teeth.

Comb (unk.) - A bald man (me) will carry one as a joke.

$111 reproduction money (Arthur Henrick) - Couldn't find the big wad of Indiana, Ohio, and Kentucky repro money laid aside for the event (showed up about 2 weeks ago), and didn't "spend" any of this federal money either."

Truncated from here out.

================================================== =

I went ahead and deleted some of the smaller stuff and weapons at the end of the blurb, but for the most part, there were some lessons learned. For this one effort, the saber with saber belt, and long arm were all left behind, and a single revolver sufficed. At that time, the saddle bags still had two small flasks for the revolver, and I'm progressing on the manufactury of reliable (big emphasis) cartridges. Since hay, grain, water, and cooked food were provided, some of the normal supply concerns were negated.

A month later, I added a small tin of gall salve for TAG (used Bag Balm), and it was used by both man and beast at that event. In the saddle bag should be some form of electrolyte, and maybe some clean salt to encourage an animal that won't drink "foreign" water to take a drink. I may buy a second link strap, and yet another CS surcingle that seems to be out there in "loaner land."

The following paragraph has nothing to do with authenticity: Obviously, in a large group of riders, a farrier or someone with farrier skills and a modicum of tools is handy, and as a concession to modern safety items, perhaps a good pair of hidden-yet-easy-to-grab heavy duty Army surplus wire cutters (lots of stray fencing out there), and a basic equine first aid kit in a saddlebag, because the cache at the trailer may be 25 miles away when it is needed. Also on a non period note, I'd like to take an enquine first aid class, but other than reading articles, nothing of the sort is available -- that I know of -- in my region. The preceding paragraph had nothing to do with authenticity.

It's a lifetime of learning. I hope this helped somewhat.

Charles Heath

[CJSchumacher]

Re: Living off the saddle for one event.

Ron,

Great question!

I learned from guys like Tom Williams and Tim Byers of the 5th U.S. Cav. and Mickey Collins, who have been doing week-long rides for over twenty years. You can certainly carry enough forage for 5 Days.

Carry what you were issued, distribute amongst the men (mess gear, hatchet, lariat & pins, first aid, etc.), and most importantly...pack light and tight. Keep things simple and use common sense.

Having done several rides over the years myself, I'll briefly explain the methods taught to me by those aforementioned and what I've found works best. (note: this is a grossly generic description for doing Federal, which I believe is your primary impression)

Impression: Reserve Brigade, Cavalry Division, Army of the Potomac, June 1863

Horse:
15h. Chestnut Sorrel
800lbs. and fit for duty
Well shod

Myself:
Forage cap
two shirts (issue and civilian, one in bedroll)
Four botton fatigue blouse (tobacco and pipe in pocket)
Mounted trousers
Two pairs of wool socks (one in bedroll)
Issue brogans
Spurs w/ straps
Mounted overcoat

'Couts:
'51 saber belt w/ cap pouch, carbine box, pistol holster
Carbine Sling w/ snap swivel
Haversack (plate, utensils, dipper)
Shelter half
Poncho
'51 Issue blanket
Pocket knife

Arms:
'59 Sharps carbine
.44 caliber colt
1860 "light" cavalry saber w/ sword knot

Saddle & Tack: Described as packed (REMEMBER - First you saddle, THEN you place the effects...practically no one does this right)

Halter and Lead - as expected
Bridle (curb bit w/ sewn on reins, link strap)
Surcingle - as breastrap

Under saddle:
- '59 Dragoon blanket
- '51 Issue blanket

Pommel: In order of placement, strapped down tightly so as not to touch the withers and not extend beyond the edge of the blanket or interfere with the position of the hands, ie. not larger than 4-5 inches (Now I know you think, not practical or possible, but yes, it is.)
- Ration bag: 3-5 Days worth
- Overcoat: rolled tightly, used for pillow
- Poncho: folded rectangularly the length of the overcoat and placed on top
- Nosebag: placed on offside w/ concealed 1st aid kit, electrolytes, etc.

Cantle: Same as above for pommel
- '59 Saddlebags: extra shoe, nails, hoof pick, original curry
- Bedroll arranged as follows:
- Shelter half: ends folded to center, peronal effects placed within (testament, sleeping cap, extra shirt, socks, candles, etc.) and rolled tightly, introducing rolled end into pocket formed on the other side
- Lariat & pin
- Boiler (army cup with holes punched and wire bail)

[Later edited: Regarding pommel and cantle rolls, when rolled correctly and as I have described, they should be longer and thinner than expected. Nothing is worse than seeing guys not even able to mount because they've got a roll so enormous, they can't even swing their leg over the saddle without getting caught up! Long, thin rolls, strapped tightly to the saddle, almost wrapped around the pommel and cantle are the best way to carry your effects. This actually enable you to pack more, should you need to carry extra forage, etc.]

Everything else is common sense. Hopefully, you have someone who has some farrier and/or vet skills. Condition your horse. Wear your canteen and haversack (although I sometimes put the haversack on the nearside of the cantle on longer marches) Use the pommel to rest the weight of the carbine when needed, etc. Lin made a great point about walking 10 minutes every hour...its necessary, keeps the horses fit and is good for your cirrculation. Check your girth. Assuming you have chow arranged and hay placed, always take care of logistics, even though the guys in the 5th many times just "winged it."!! I think its better to be safe than sorry. Food, if needed, can be distributed amongst the men. Don't immediately unsaddle after a long march, loosen girths and remove the effects - you don't want to get sore backs. When undaddled, turn over your saddle blanket and surcingle it to your horse...helps with cooling. (straight from an early 20th century cav manual) Water. Groom. Check your horses feet and shoes. Hay and bed down your horse. Eat.

Anyway, so many little things, but most importantly...keep it simple, distribute, use common sense, and enjoy yourself.

Guys have been doing this a long time with little or no problems. Its nothing new and as you can see, passed down from the Elders through generations.

Chris

P.s. - Here's my brother and I in 1996, the same year we did the Brandy ride.

[SouthernFed]

Re: Living off the saddle for one event.

Ron,

Great question!

I learned from guys like Tom Williams and Tim Byers of the 5th U.S. Cav. and Mickey Collins, who have been doing week-long rides for over twenty years. You can certainly carry enough forage for 5 Days.

Carry what you were issued, distribute amongst the men (mess gear, hatchet, lariat & pins, first aid, etc.), and most importantly...pack light and tight. Keep things simple and use common sense.

Having done several rides over the years myself, I'll briefly explain the methods taught to me by those aforementioned and what I've found works best. (note: this is a grossly generic description for doing Federal, which I believe is your primary impression)

Impression: Reserve Brigade, Cavalry Division, Army of the Potomac, June 1863

Horse:
15h. Chestnut Sorrel
800lbs. and fit for duty
Well shod

Myself:
Forage cap
two shirts (issue and civilian, one in bedroll)
Four botton fatigue blouse (tobacco and pipe in pocket)
Mounted trousers
Two pairs of wool socks (one in bedroll)
Issue brogans
Spurs w/ straps
Mounted overcoat

'Couts:
'51 saber belt w/ cap pouch, carbine box, pistol holster
Carbine Sling w/ snap swivel
Haversack (plate, utensils, dipper)
Shelter half
Poncho
'51 Issue blanket
Pocket knife

Arms:
'59 Sharps carbine
.44 caliber colt
1860 "light" cavalry saber w/ sword knot

Saddle & Tack: Described as packed (REMEMBER - First you saddle, THEN you place the effects...practically no one does this right)

Halter and Lead - as expected
Bridle (curb bit w/ sewn on reins, link strap)
Surcingle - as breastrap

Under saddle:
- '59 Dragoon blanket
- '51 Issue blanket

Pommel: In order of placement, strapped down tightly so as not to touch the withers and not extend beyond the edge of the blanket or interfere with the position of the hands, ie. not larger than 4-5 inches (Now I know you think, not practical or possible, but yes, it is.)
- Ration bag: 3-5 Days worth
- Overcoat: rolled tightly, used for pillow
- Poncho: folded rectangularly the length of the overcoat and placed on top
- Nosebag: placed on offside w/ concealed 1st aid kit, electrolytes, etc.

Cantle: Same as above for pommel
- '59 Saddlebags: extra shoe, nails, hoof pick, original curry
- Bedroll arranged as follows:
- Shelter half: ends folded to center, peronal effects placed within (testament, sleeping cap, extra shirt, socks, candles, etc.) and rolled tightly, introducing rolled end into pocket formed on the other side
- Lariat & pin
- Boiler (army cup with holes punched and wire bail)

[Later edited: Regarding pommel and cantle rolls, when rolled correctly and as I have described, they should be longer and thinner than expected. Nothing is worse than seeing guys not even able to mount because they've got a roll so enormous, they can't even swing their leg over the saddle without getting caught up! Long, thin rolls, strapped tightly to the saddle, almost wrapped around the pommel and cantle are the best way to carry your effects. This actually enable you to pack more, should you need to carry extra forage, etc.]

Everything else is common sense. Hopefully, you have someone who has some farrier and/or vet skills. Condition your horse. Wear your canteen and haversack (although I sometimes put the haversack on the nearside of the cantle on longer marches) Use the pommel to rest the weight of the carbine when needed, etc. Lin made a great point about walking 10 minutes every hour...its necessary, keeps the horses fit and is good for your cirrculation. Check your girth. Assuming you have chow arranged and hay placed, always take care of logistics, even though the guys in the 5th many times just "winged it."!! I think its better to be safe than sorry. Food, if needed, can be distributed amongst the men. Don't immediately unsaddle after a long march, loosen girths and remove the effects - you don't want to get sore backs. When undaddled, turn over your saddle blanket and surcingle it to your horse...helps with cooling. (straight from an early 20th century cav manual) Water. Groom. Check your horses feet and shoes. Hay and bed down your horse. Eat.

Anyway, so many little things, but most importantly...keep it simple, distribute, use common sense, and enjoy yourself.

Guys have been doing this a long time with little or no problems. Its nothing new and as you can see, passed down from the Elders through generations.

Chris

P.s. - Here's my brother and I in 1996, the same year we did the Brandy ride.

Thanks
You can see by the replys that a number of you have lived out of the saddle as I have. Ohio raid I did horse and rider both came out with nothing but a few bruises and cuts . Horse was not sorebacked. Tag yes went too it learned some more vauluable lessions. Keep the info coming. We as cavalrymen must take care of our best friend first. Ohio Raid was good just that some did not prepare their horse or themselves. They overload there buddy with junk they did not need. Yes Mainly I do Federal but when we cross over the Ohio River we mainly wear the gray as the 10th Kentucky Partisan Rangers. Yes I know I am not good at spelling
Ron Orange
SouthenFed

[GeraldTodd]

Re: Living off the saddle for one event.

The only thing I'd add is to pre-check your equipment. Buckles, attachments, rings, straps, snap-swivels, carbine ring, barrell band, canteen cork, loose buttons, and so on, that should be looked over and made right before you leave home.

In the field, check and check again. It does no harm what-ever to glance things over at every stop. Watch for chafing, listen to the sounds your gear makes - that creaking could be nothing, or it could be a cracked saddle tree.

Make sure gear rides on you right. Your traps up off your kidneys and on your waist, carbine sling not catching things that'll drop your $200-$1200 investment in the leaves somewhere.

Look out for your pards. Watch what they can't see.

As Chris said, "light and tight" Tight keeps it from rubbing the horse and keeps the noise down. Undue noise (including chatty troopers) keeps you from hearing what needs to be heard; orders, danger, problems, etc.

[Tyler Underwood]

Re: Living off the saddle

We are starting to see a lot more campaigners in the saddle these days. Time for this one to get revived!

[Steven Dacus]

Re: Living off the saddle

We have finished two decent campaign rides over the past two years and have learned that the biggest issue is preparing yourself and your unit. We started a 150 mile ride with 22 riders and finished 5 days and 150 miles later with 11. I'm sure Tom Craig can give his two cents into the biggest lessons for 2015 & 2016

[Tom Craig]

Re: Living off the saddle

We have finished two decent campaign rides over the past two years and have learned that the biggest issue is preparing yourself and your unit. We started a 150 mile ride with 22 riders and finished 5 days and 150 miles later with 11. I'm sure Tom Craig can give his two cents into the biggest lessons for 2015 & 2016

My two cents...
A lot was learned and can be learned from our experience on the prairie and mountains of Wyoming. The first year (2015) we completed a 150 mile march from Ft. Laramie to Ft Platte (Casper, WY) over the course of five days. This march followed the route of the Oregon Trail, and was except for the first and last days extremely free of modern intrusions except barbed wire. The second ride, (2016) held in the Wind River Range of western WY took place over 5 days and covered a large, but undetermined amount of miles including climbing up an 11,000ft mountain on horseback.

We operated in terrain that would be considered hostile to most folks in the eastern half of the country. High desert with little natural water on the 2015 ride, and only natural water sources that required purification on the 2016 version. Virtually no shade under a relentless sun that parched man and beast, cracking dry lips and leaving us dusty. We operated beyond the easy reach of modern communication and without support vehicles so we were very much on our own for our logistics etc.

The most essential lesson learned was that if you use period equipment, constructed in period fashion, and use it as it was intended, it works. Do not try to solve period problems with modern solutions. Saddle pads being an example. If you have a properly made saddle it will fit a horse and will work as it was intended. People get into issues with their saddles when they buy "period" saddles that have been modified or not made to period specs.

As a related lesson, the McClellan is a functional and well designed saddle for military campaign use. It is light, sturdy and functional giving the rider all sorts of places to tie off gear etc. The only issues we had with sore backs came as a result of improper saddling or packing of the saddle.

Saddling and packing the saddle are vitally important. Rule number 1, if you can survive without out it, leave it at home. Reenactors for all types of events bring waaaaaay too much stuff. Travel as light as humanly possible and your horse will thank you. Once you've pared your load down to the absolute bare minimum then spend the extra time to ensure that the saddle is well placed on the horse and that you pack it with exacting precision. Out of balance loads will result in sore backs and horses out of commission. Likewise make sure that all affects are as high and tight as possible, rubbing the horse as little as possible. You prevent injury and lost or broken gear that way.

Of interest to eastern folks who aren't accustomed to operating this way: Coming from the east we picket our horses at events on a fixed picket line, and occasionally someone will use a picket pin a rope for a short period to let their horse graze. Having the horses on a fixed line is handy to keep close tabs on your horse and ensure that he gets into as little mischief as possible. The downside of course is that we become slaves to having hay on hand, with farby bales all stacked in camp. Not only is it farby, it ties us down logistically to one spot, or to requiring modern transportation to move the hay during the event. On both rides we had men hobble or side line their horses to great affect. The animals are allowed to graze to their satisfaction, a heavy rope isn't required and neither are big stacks of hay. For the most part the horses stayed where we left them and we had no injuries to the horses either. There are a lot of eastern situations and locations where this wouldn't work, but there are also plenty where it would. There is precious little documentation on exactly what troops on campaign did with their animals when they weren't riding, but I can tell you that they didn't have lots of fixed picket lines with piles of hay nearby.

There is plenty more to say if anyone is interested in hearing it, but the biggest take away is to do what they did the way they did it and use gear the way they designed it. Oh, and get out and ride!

Take care,
Tom Craig
1st Maine Cavalry

[Tyler Underwood]

Re: Living off the saddle

Great info Tom!

[Steven Dacus]

Re: Living off the saddle

Thanks for putting your two cents and Tom. As the event organizer and officer of the group I tend to have a disconnected opinion and like to hear the experience on the rank-and-file.

[Nibs]

Re: Living off the saddle

My apologies, I should have introduced myself earlier. I've only just come to this period, but have been campaigning with a Napoleonic light cavalry unit for a while and we adhere to British practice as closely as we can - indeed we're off to Spain next weekend and will be doing a campaign ride adjunct to the mainstream battles :D

Although having moved to Denmark from UK some six years ago, I only shifted my reenactment focus here about twelve months ago (once the long haired general gained a full professorship and we'd bought a house in Odense). Whilst generally using local mounts when riding overseas, I have a 16½ hand Danish Warmblood gelding, who's mostly of Holsteiner stock.

I've recently joined a very small, but established ACW group (Blazer's Scouts), so I'm at an early stage of my research and am very grateful for all the period specific advice presented here. I've been particularly impressed by 10OVC's videos.

In my experience of campaign riding, albeit from other periods, the bit most commanders neglect is to walk the mounts 10 mins in the hour. Moreover, from my research into Napoleonic and WW1 British cavalry, the military working trot was seemingly much faster than modern riders are used to. Having noted the European influence on US manuals, I wonder how that translated into practice on the other side of the pond.

Yours Aye,

Nibs