Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Carbine Slings

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Re: Carbine Slings

    Correct on the 4 round head rivets - I left one off - my bad.
    I noticed the CW original has that edge line pressed on it - I figured some did, now I've seen one. (Wonder if that's an arsenal/contractor/timeframe thing?)

    The BEST way to get it right is to measure the original - as many as you can get your paws on, note their details AND look up their specs in the ordnance manual - which will give weight and type of leather, etc. (Pre-war ones were white buff many, not all, of which got dyed black)

    When you're done looking at slings, we'll start a thread on sabre belts! :)
    Gerald Todd
    1st Maine Cavalry
    Eos stupra si jocum nesciunt accipere.

    Comment


    • #17
      Re: Carbine Slings

      Originally posted by JimKindred
      Yep, just have to plan ahead with your stitches. Take a close look at an original piece sewn in this manner, it isn't that hard to copy.
      Jim
      I have been thinking about this stitch and I think I have figured it out. Please let me know if I am correct.
      If I start with one leg of the thread longer than the other and begin at the upper right corner stitch left to the X. Make the X to the center row. Go up and down the center row with only the long leg of thread then X to the last row, then stitch right and end it at the lower right. Sound right?
      Terry

      Comment


      • #18
        Re: Carbine Slings

        Sounds about right, the absolute best thing is to look at an original piece sewn in this manner, doesn't have to be a carbine sling just something sewn this way. Gathering information about making a reproduction online is simply scratching the surface, for a proper reproduction you must study the original example.
        Jim Kindred

        Comment


        • #19
          Re: Carbine Slings

          Terry
          I started by hand sewing dressage bridles, you will soon find that getting the hang of it just takes a few. The number of twists to take between the rows will vary on the size of your thread and the distance betwwen the rows. also putting both twists on the bottom requires double stitching the center row. Every arsenal sewn piece I have ever seen up to 1943 is sewn that way. It helps to paste the fold in place so it does not squiggle on you when changing your clamp. the key is to learn never to put down your awl and needles.
          Tom Mattimore

          Comment


          • #20
            Re: Carbine Slings

            Originally posted by tmattimore
            the key is to learn never to put down your awl and needles.
            Tom
            Another trick I learned the hard way is never scratch your nose with the hand you keep the awl in.
            Terry

            Comment


            • #21
              Re: Carbine Slings

              Thanks, Gents, for all of the splendid feedback! I truly appreciate it!!
              Jeff Rice
              1st Stuarts Horse Artillery of Virginia

              Comment


              • #22
                Re: Carbine Slings

                Originally posted by Majpain
                Thanks, Gents, for all of the splendid feedback! I truly appreciate it!!
                Jeff Rice
                1st Stuarts Horse Artillery of Virginia
                From the Ordinance Manual of 1862
                "Carbine-Sling, (buff-leather)--Length 56 inches, width 2.5 inches; 1 buckel and 1 tip, (brass); swivel and D with roller, bright iron, 2.62 inches wide; link and hook, iron; guard spring, steel."

                Interestingly enough, no mention is made of copper rivets, nor the method for attaching the buckle and tip to the belt and nothing at all about the stitching. Usually the manual is much more descriptive, for example:
                "Sabre-Belt, (buff-leather)--Waist-belt, length 36 to 40 inches, width 1.9 inch; 1 square loop No.46, 2 D rings No.2 B, (brass) for attaching the slings and shoulder-strap; 1 hook, (brass,) riveted on one end by 3 brass wire rivets No.15; 1 loop, (cast brass,) sewed on the other end to connect with the plate; 1 shoulder-strap, 41 inches long, 1.125 inch wide, with 2 hooks, (brass;) 2 sabre-slings, 1.125 inch wide; front sling 17 inches long, rear sling 34 inches; 4 studs (brass) for slings; 1 sabre hook, (brass wire No. 7.)

                Neither entry, by itself, provides enough information to replicate either item. Research is the key.

                Dave Myrick

                Comment


                • #23
                  Re: Carbine Slings

                  There are at least three stitching patterns for carbine sling. These patterns vary by date. There at least two different types of buckles. The buckles being made now are 1864 buckles. Later this year we may have the earlier buckle made. For more information on these stitching patterns and buckles we will need to wait for Paul Johnson to finish his series on CW equipment.

                  These slings could be made from 3 types of material during the CW. Black buff, waxed, and bridle, for information on the dating of these leather types see Paul D. Johnson book on Cartridge boxes.

                  David Jarnagin

                  <strike>http://www.jarnaginco.com/leather%20definitions%20index.htm</strike>

                  David,

                  You are not an approved vendor and cannot make business card/advertisement posts. Your advertisement sig-file has been removed once.

                  Please consider this your second warning. There will not be a third.

                  Scott McKay, moderator
                  AC Forums

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X