Authentic Civilian Impression Guidelines for “We’ll Tread The Fiery Road To Death” Port Hudson, LA. June 14-16, 2024
We will be portraying the civilians at Port Hudson during the siege of May 22, 1863, until July 9, 1863. This is the longest siege in US history. The civilians at Port Hudson were either refugees from the Federal occupation of New Orleans and the area around Port Hudson or the wives and families of the Confederate officers. The people at Port Hudson during the siege would have been staying in the homes in the port, mostly occupied by the Confederate officers. These homes were in the direct line of fire of Federal guns and were continually being fired upon. We are portraying life in a war zone. The civilians at Port Hudson would not be wearing their finest clothing. They would be attired in clothes that they could wear to aid where needed.
Please take into consideration that it is the middle of summer in Louisiana. The average high temperature is 91 degrees and tropical. Therefore, lighter weight fabrics are recommended.
Women:
Women’s dress:
A tidy appearance was popular during the period appropriate to your station. Dresses must be of a natural fiber: linen, cotton, or wool, and a weave that existed in the period.
Authentic – For adult women, skirts will be full (cartridge pleated or regularly pleated) and reach no more than 4” off the ground. The waistline should be at the natural waist of the wearer. Shoulder seams should be dropped slightly off the natural shoulder. Cotton dresses must be of a suitable style per current research (gathered or pleated bodice, Bishop or coat sleeves, any trim must be self-trim). They must be made of a reproduction print or of a pattern that can be documented to the period. Sheer cotton, wool or linen dresses may be solid, plaid, or have a print that can be documented to the period. Any trim choices must be documented to the period in both style, pattern, and material. White waists and Girabaldi style tops are NOT appropriate for this event.
Mismatched tops and skirts should only be used in refugee impressions. This should be in the saque and petticoat style.
All dresses will be made using period techniques including all hand sewn, or a combination of machine and hand stitching. Closures that are acceptable are hooks and eyes or buttons. Buttons must be documented to the period and appropriate to the use on the garment and your station. White collar and cuffs or neckerchief should be used.
Reasonable Alternative – Cotton dresses made in a period print or design with a darted bodice and may or may not contain non-self-trim.
Not Allowed – Cotton dresses that are of a solid color, a modern quilting print, or fashioned in the style meant for wool or silk. Any military accessories or clothing. White modern blouses (tucked in, collar as part of the shirt). Gathered drawstring skirts. Ball gowns, evening gowns, open neckline gowns.
Hoops: During this time frame, hoops were rounded. The wearer would be slightly forward of the center. Circumference would range from roughly 90”-110”. A full skirt supported by petticoats is also acceptable.
Underpinnings: A well fitted corset on all ladies is expected unless medically prohibitive. White cotton petticoats should be worn over the hoop to soften and hide the bone lines from the hoop.
Hair: Hair must be up and contained in a period manner with a center part. No modern heavy woven snoods or loose uncontrolled hair.
Headwear:
Authentic – Bonnets, hats and other women’s headwear should be made of proper materials and construction. Slat or corded bonnets are encouraged.
Not Allowed – Any modern hats, headbands, scrunches, heavy woven snoods or any other things not period correct.
Shoes:
Authentic – Shoes should be of period construction and materials with squared toes. They may include low walkers, boots, or mules.
Not allowed – Modern shoes or boots are not allowed. This would include period like boots with zippers.
Accessories:
Authentic – There are many personal accessories for the time. They may include jewelry, pocket watches, neck bows, travel cases, and/or walking sticks. Please make sure accessories coordinate with your station and portrayal.
Not allowed – Battenberg patrols and ponytail cameos are not from our period.
Men:
Men’s Dress:
Refrain from wild clown colors. Though accent colors could be brighter, it was starting to become more the fashion for tamer colors to be used. Men’s clothing in the period shined in waistcoats, cravats and suspenders. Jackets and trousers were predominantly black, slate gray or dark brown if wool. Warmer weather trousers and jackets were usually bleached, cream and a medium brown.
Coats:
Authentic – Civilian Frocks, Paletots, and Sack Coats using period correct materials (wool, linen, jean cloth) and patterns. Overshirts and workshirts of period correct construction and materials are also acceptable.
Not Allowed – Federal or Confederate issued uniforms. Modern dress coats.
Trousers:
Authentic – Civilian pattern using period correct construction and materials (wool, linen, jean cloth, period corduroy). Overalls of a period construction are allowed.
Not allowed – Federal Issue Trousers or any type of military trousers, Civil War or otherwise. Modern dress pants.
Waistcoats:
Authentic – Civilian pattern using period correct materials (silk, wool, cotton, linen in a pattern that can be dated to the period). Can be solid or check.
Not Allowed – Military cut or the use of Military Brass Buttons. Modern vests.
Shirts:
Authentic – Proper Civilian construction and materials of the time made of linen, cotton, etc.
Not Allowed – US or CS style “Issue” shirts. Modern button down shirts of any kind.
Cravats: Cravats of silk, linen and cotton can be used.
Footwear:
Authentic – Civilian Style Shoes/Boots
Reasonable Alternative – Confederate/Federal Issue Shoes if you absolutely cannot do otherwise.
Not Allowed – Modern footwear of any kind unless needed for medical reasons. Then the shoes must be a reasonable facsimile of period correct. (Modern black dress shoes with black rubber soles.)
Headgear:
Authentic – Civilian hats in good condition from a reputable dealer made of fur, wool or straw.
Not Allowed – Military headwear of any kind including kepis, forage caps, etc. Modern cowboy hats or other modern headwear.
Accessories: Canes, pocket watches, travel cases, etc.
Men’s Research: We highly recommend all men needing suggestions about proper construction and material for this era check out https://www.tmtmuseum.com/collection
Tailor Merchant Museum is a great team of Ben Jenkins, Aaron Klass, Amber Besonen, and Eric Smallwood.
General prohibition: We WILL NOT tolerate modern things such as, but not limited to modern glasses, modern tobacco products/lighters, cell phones, modern haircuts (mohawks, men with extremely long hair, unnatural hair dye, etc.), colored nail polish, and public drunkenness. Please make every effort to hide modern tattoos and remove piercings beyond the earlobes. No excessive modern discussions. It’s 1863, let’s leave modern politics/events at home!
The only exception to these standards is modern medicine/contact related items packed and utilized out of sight.
NO CELL PHONES.
Questions about the guidelines or advice on where to get the highest quality made living history clothes/etc. please reach out to Amy Debord.