Pride in your product

[tnyankee]

Tonight while sitting at home I finished a frock coat for a good buddy of mine and something popped into my mind. Thinking back on the men and women that cranked out so many uniforms during the war must have been a rewarding process. I know many did it for money as war is usually great for the economy, but think upon those that made uniforms knowing that a loved one might recieve it. I like to think that when one was finished with a product they took a moment and looked at it with pride that they not only helped the war effort but were able to contribute a great skill. Looking at something I make, and when complete, I have a great sense of satisfaction especially when seeing that item on an individual and in the field. Not to say that mainstream sutlers don't in some way feel this but I know they are more concerned with outfitting the masses and how to produce it fast to sell more. I, for one, will never cut any corners but rather always take pride in what I made. Now the flip side is that I know many uniforms were produced shoddy during the war as a way to save money and make more faster. I prefer to look toward the mother or wife that made a coat for her son and the pride she felt in knowing what they had done for the war, their country, and their sons/husbands. Here's to those that share in my feelings!

Tony DiMaiolo
37th Tennessee
Hard Case Boys

[claynpendleton]

Re: Pride in your product

To play "devil's advocate" a bit and get this thread livened up, I would think that the majority of those that made uniforms during the war took about as much pride in their work as the modern clothing makers in Asia do...
As is the case today, most of the laborers were poor, young women (or children) who may have felt they had little other choice to support themselves (or their oft-times rural families*
Those making hand-made garments for their husband or son in the field would no doubt have taken great pride in their work (as would community sewing circles), however the seamstresses in the factories were many times paid a certain amount for quantity of finished product, not quality. Such necessary fast-paced work is readily seen in countless original garments (i.e. crooked rows of stitching, blankets that "one could pass one's finger through" quite easily).
I am sure others can chime in with more specifics that ellude me at the moment. I am sure I can dig out some of my mat. cult. books from grad school over the weekend and contribute more if the conversation progresses.**

As a final thought...Could many of the "authentic" garments a lot of us purchase today be seen as "too perfect/ tailored in appearance??

-Clay Pendleton


* See: Stephen A. Mrozowski,et. al. Living on the Boott: Historical Archaeology at the Boott Mills Boardinghouses, Lowell, Massachusetts (1996). Great source for gaining insight into the beginnings and evolution of the U.S. textile industry; extensive bibliography as well.
** See also: an 1865 article posted by Chris Daley: http://www.cjdaley.com/strawberrygirl.htm
dealing with the conditions that Civil War seamstresses faced.

[tnyankee]

Re: Pride in your product

In one of my history classes here at UTC we actually discussed the whole "quantity vs. Quality" topic. It is very true and obvious that many were producing what they could as fast as they could to gain more profit, or more realistic to keep their heads above water.

It is my own opinion that many reproductions are "too near perfect" in respect to items that we know to mass mass preodeced such as sack coats and the like. Looking at many originals it is easy to see how quickly some garments were thrown together, hence leading to them wearing out too quickly and the need to secure new items.

Excellent reply though, very very valid points!

Tony DiMaiolo
37th Tennessee
Hard Case Boys

[Brian Baird]

Re: Pride in your product

Here's an interesting article posted on Chris Daley's site written by a seamstress in 1865:

http://www.cjdaley.com/strawberrygirl.htm

Brian Baird

[AZReenactor]

Something else to consider

I think it is important to recognize that there is a considerable difference between skilled labor working at a quick pace and unskilled labor at any speed.

Most people likely learned to sew well then learned to sew fast.

The "flaws, errors, or shortcuts" of a skilled laborer will not be the same as someone who simply doesn't know what they are doing.

[weed]

Re: Pride in your product

The general quality of a Civil War uniforms most of the time left something to be desired at the least. The quality of the uniform basically depended on three things: 1. the sewing ability of the person making that particular uniform. For example, all uniforms made at the main government supply depot (SA) were sewn by the women living in Philadelphia and surrounding area. First jobs were given to those who had husbands or sons in the arny or were war widows, naturally with thousands of diffferant people sewing, the quality would vary GREATLY. 2. The need for uniforms so fast in such quantity. 3. Finally with private contractors, their basic aim was to produce the cheapest uniform exceptable at the lowest cost to maximize profits. Qantity OVER quality.

To see this, all you have to do is go to my web site and look at the quality of the original uniforms. http://www.inxpress.net/jwedeward/

I have seen too many original uniforms, not only in major museums, but in private collections or the ones I own.

So, in final analysis, reproduction uniforms made today are constructed far better than the original ones were.

John M. Wedeward

[GBOB]

Re: Pride in your product

After making my own SA lined blouse from a kit, I did indeed feel terrific pride at the accomplishment (see how it was the first sewing project I ever completed). And as it was my first project, I feel the quality on par with what an experienced seamstress would turn out quickly - seams that aren't always straight but good spacing and tight.

It is also far from tailored. One sleeve is puffy at the shoulder, and the lining in the other sleeve is just enough off-alignment to notice. I was going to pull out the seams and re-do it, but then I thought of the seamstress trying to make as many of these as possible for the SA. Would she have gone back and fix minor flaws? I dont think so. The coat is servicable, and that I believe was the goal.