Working on a '42

[lukegilly13]

I'm working on a defarbed AS '42 Springfield and I have run across a couple of issues.

Issue 1: My rear band spring is cracked and will break just any day and is no longer holding the rear band in place as it should. Can anyone recommend a vendor for these? Are there any that are better than others (more accurately reflect originals, better steel, etc.)?

Issue 2: My hammer is stricking the primer off-center. It is hitting slightly inside of where it should. Is there any way to adjust this? I can't seem to get the hammer off (although the screw comes out easily). It wouldn't be such a problem but it sometimes causes caps to greatly deform and I am afraid of fragmentation.

Any help/advise would be appreciated.
I appologize if there are threads on the above two questions...I searched the forum but could not find anything that addressed these two questions directly.

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Working on a '42

Hallo!

1. No, the Italian band springs are poor, and made in such a way and angle that reproductions of originals or originals will not easily fit in replacement.
Temporarily, you can put a match or two or piece of wood under the band spring in the band spring mortise which will raise the spring up a bit alllowing it to better catch (until it breaks).

2. I am amazed at the amount of force it takes to remove some of the Italian M1842 hammers from the tumbler. This week I tried every method I knew, for about twenty minutes. Finally, I had to take apart the lock, set it across a vise, and use a flat punch on the tumbler to drive it out of the hammer (with a five pound hammer and some nasty whacks) even after a soaking in penetrating oil.

Aligning a hammer can be tricky. It may take heating the hammer below the nose red hot and gentle bending the nose in a vise with pliers- then repolishing it back to bright. Some lads have success cold-bending it the same way, if it does not need to shift much- but the steel in the hammer may suffer cracking the nose off if bent cold.

Curt
Who was lightening a 50 pound trigger pull when an overlly hard mainspring cracked in my hand Mess

[lukegilly13]

Re: Working on a '42

Thanks for the response Curt. I guess I will be forced to order a cheap italian spring at a not so cheap american price ($15 + sh). What ever happened to getting what you pay for? haha
I wonder if the band spring on my '61 will fit the '42?

Thanks also for the advice on the hammer. The hammer is hitting the cone..but the cone is every so slightly brushing the inside of the inverted part of the hammer. It busts a cap but sometimes causes the side to blow out a little.

Do you know why the hammer connection is flexible? When trying to remove the hammer I have noticed that there is some give...not in the hammer itself but in the "action" where it attaches to the lock.

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Working on a '42

Hallo!

I suspect you are feeling a "wobble" in the tumbler shaft as it passes through the hole in the lockplate.

On the other hand, it may (also) be "slop" where the tumbler is held in the bridle. Or the tightness or looseness of the tumbler screws.

With seemingly often random or even absent Quality Control on the fit and finish of Italian workmanship, things are often not quite as they should be.
For another example, sometimes the tightness or looseness of the lock plate screws can effect the alignment or position of the hammer recess on the cone.

Curt

[Blair]

Re: Working on a '42

Luke,

As to the issue you are having with the band spring go to Taylor's & Co. They are Armi Sport in this country. Talk with them and see if they will send you a replacement part. Next best bet is to check with Regimental Quartermaster. They usually have replacement parts for '42's in stock. (The band springs on a '42 are longer than on other Springfield, so you have to get a '42 spring.)
Hammer issue,
1. Hammer brushing the nipple on the left side of the hammer face as "you" are looking down the barrel... You may need to inlet the lock a small amount.
2. Hammer brushing the nipple on the right side of the hammer face as you are looking down the barrel... You may indeed need to bend the hammer ever so little. HOWEVER, I would suggest you try shimming to lock mortise with thin bite of hard wood to hold the lock away form the center line of the barrel just a bit. I use shoe pegs for this and they work splendidly with a touch of epoxy to hold them in place. Be sure to treat your lock plate and internal parts with some kind of release agent so you don't epoxy your lock into the gun.
I hope you find this of some help.