Lining a Jacket.

[itz3r1k]

Ok so earlier this year the lining in my jacket ripped. I tried to mend it but the threads were not holding. So i took it out and decided to replace it. Well i was just about done and decided to try it on. I did and the fanric ripped at the shoulders >.< So my question is how do you properly line a jacket?

Your Most Humble and Obdient Servant,
Erik William Creekmore,

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Lining a Jacket.

Where in the shoulders did it rip? On a seam, or in the middle of a span of fabric? How was the new lining attached, or was it hooked in yet?

[itz3r1k]

Re: Lining a Jacket.

it ripped near a seam. I need not allow enough clearence i think. And the lining was attached with a basic running stich around the collar and a whip stitch to attach the rest. And i do not understand about being hooked in. Sorry i am still kinda new to sewing. Even though my great grandmother taught me some. but It was many years ago and i can not remember everything.

Your most humble and obdient servant,
Erik W Creekmore,

[Dan Wambaugh]

Re: Lining a Jacket.

Eric,

If the fabric itself is tearing and ripping you may not be using a sturdy enough material. What type of jacket is it you are lining? What material are you using? Replacing the lining can be done and I'll be happy to help you with it, but let me know what kind of coat we are dealing with and we'll go from there.

[Dan Wambaugh]

Re: Lining a Jacket.

Re-posted from a private message so anyone else who might have this issue can resolve it:


Erik,

For material, you'll want to select something cotton and relatively sturdy. Flimsy, lightweight fabric falls apart. Stay away from prints, if you want some colored or patterned use a woven homespun. Many coats were lined in a plain weave natural color cotton known as osnaburg. This can be found at most fabric stores in the utility fabrics section but is a little lightweight compared to what was originally used. You don't want something as heavy as canvas or drill, but the stouter the better up to a point. Stay away from cotton flannel, they didn't have it any neither should we. It's also important to have good thread. Size 20 or 30 100% cotton embroidery thread is excellent. Make sure to coat it with beeswax before sewing, this will make it much easier!

Once you have your material picked out, take the old lining and use your seam ripper to take it apart. Iron the pieces flat so that they appear the same as they did when they were first cut out of fabric. Use these flat pieces as your "pattern" by laying them on your new fabric and carefully cutting around them to get your new pieces.

Now that we have our new pieces cut out, assemble them together in the same way the old pieces were sewn with the same seam allowances. If you don't want to use a sewing machine for this you can use a back stitch or a tight running stitch to make the seams. If you hand sew them start and stop each seam by passing the thread through the same spot five or six times to secure the beginning and end of the seam. Press all these seams open. Finally, press under 1/2" of the entire perimeter of this lining assembly, and pin it along the edge to the wool shell of the coat. Now whip stitch the lining to the wool shell along its entire length all around the perimeter. The last step is to baste (big whip stitches) the lining to the body at the sleeve cap, then bring the sleeve lining through the sleeve cap and whip stitch it back in place covering the basting stitches of the lining (about 1/2" in.)

I hope this helps. I'll point out that I can sell you the osnaburg, heavy weight homespun cotton, even hand sewing thread if you like, but depending on your access to a fabric store you can likely find everything you need locally. I'm also going to post it in the thread so others can read it if they're in a same situation as you.

Have a good one!