Flat felled seams and backstitching

[Hank Trent]

Re: Using period terminology

"Stitch and fell" does not sound familiar for this period. I'm not sure if I correctly understand what you mean by "sew and fell applied to joins that were seamed before felling?" Seams that were sewn with the tiny whipstitch you mentioned rather than a running stitch?

Correct. I don't know what else to call making that little whipstitch other than "seaming."

It makes sense that there would be no specific common name for backstitching and felling, if it shows up less commonly in original garments.

Hank Trent
hanktrent@voyager.net

[Virginia Mescher]

Re: Using period terminology

So was there such a phrase as "stitch and fell"? Or did "run and fell" apply to all joins that were either run or stitched before felling, while "sew and fell" applied to joins that were seamed before felling?

Hank Trent
hanktrent@voyager.net[/QUOTE]

Hank,

I looked further in the book, I mentioned earlier, _Handbook of Plain and Fancy Needlework_ (1879) and found some additional information.

There were instructions for seaming and the illustration shows tiny slanted stitches joining the edges of two pieces of fabric together. It is defined as, "This is a stich for sewing two edges of material together, whether they be selvages or otherwise.... Children should be taught to flatten out the seam, after sewing them, with the top of their thimble or by other simple means." There was no seam allowance and another illustration showed the seam with the fabric flattened out.

"Some seams are run and felled, some seamed and felled, while others are stitched and felled." An illustration showed a felled seam.

Another illustration showed flat seaming. "German needlewomen occasionally practice a very neat and strong mode of joining two selfages... The seam is produced by it is perfectly flat, and when the selvage is strong and even, this kind of seaming may at times be advisable." The illustration shows the seam being sewn with the two pieces of fabric laid out flat and the edges stitched, that than having the fabric sewn with right sides together.

"Stitching. On the execution of good stitching our grandmothers were wont to pride themselves. They would have regarded the sewing machine as an invention to deprive them of the honour and glory which various modes of stitching had enabled them to attain.... It is usual to make the learner draw out a thread of some coarse material, so that in stitching she may not only be able to count the threads for each stitch, but also may keep to a straight line. Two threads are taken on the needle for each stitch. The stitches are taken backwards, as will be clearly seen from a glance at our illustrations, the first of which shows a kind of stitching in which two lines are passed over between each stitch. The second shows the thread drawn, the needle inserted two lines behind where the cotton is drawn out, and brought out two threads in front of the same point. The third illustration shows the same kind of stitching with no thread drawn." Each illustration shows a different looking line of stitching.

"Running is used for joining two pieces together that are to be afterwards felled. In the case of stout materials, a back stitch should be taken every three or four stitches. Running is also used for making gathers. The beauty of good running consists in the regularity of the stiches. Several are taken upon the needle at once."

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Using period terminology

While researching this topic further, I've become even more convinced that context, author's perspective and/or opinion, and piublication date are key factors. Consider these definitions from Caulfields Dictionary of Needlework published in 1885:

Run and Fell - This is a description of needlework which comes under the denomination of Plain Sewing. It is a method sometimes adopted in lieu of Over-sewing, and employed in making seams, either in underlinen, or in the skirts and sleeves of dresses. To make a FELL: RUN two pieces of material together, having placed the raw edge of the piece nearest to the worker a little below that of the outer piece. Then open out the two now united, turn over the outer edge, and fold over both edges together. Then HEM them down, making the Hem as flat as possible.

Running - A term used in needlework to denote the passing of a thread and needle in and out of the material to be sewn, at regular intervals, taking much smaller stitches than when Tacking, Runnings being made for permanent, and Tackings only for temporary use.

Seam - A term used to denote the line of Over-sewing which connects the edges of two pieces of material together. The term is of Saxon derivation, and has always been retained in the English language.

Seaming - A certain method adopted in Plain Sewing for uniting two pieces of matherial together, either by Over-sewing the selvedges, or by turning down two raw edges, the needle being passed through the folded edges very straight. When there is no selvedge, make a FELL on the wrong side... In Over-Sewing the seams of underclothing, place the two edges of maerial very evenly together, and keep them in position by means of pins inserted at regular distance. Hold the work very straight between the forefinger and thumb - not round the foremer, as in Hemming - and beware of slanting the needle, or the seam will become puckered.

Stitching - This is one of the varieties in Plain Sewing, and is a method by which two pieces of material are very firmly sewn together. To work in this style: RUN two pieces of cloth together, and turn them so as to leave the raw edges inside, and out of sight. Then commence to make a kind of double Running, but only taking one stitch at a time. When one has been taken, and the needle drawn out, replace it in the spot where it was previously inserted, bringing it out beyond the spot where it was last drawn out. Thus there will a line of stitches respectively touching one another, and no spaces left between them as in Running. The Stitiching should be made at a little distance, within the edge formed, at the union of the two pieces of cloth; and they should be of uniform length, and the horizontal line of perfect evenness. This description of work may be executed with a Sewing Machine.

Overcasting - A method of plain sewing of as slight character as TACKING. It is employed for the purpose of preventing the ravelling-out of raw edges of material, which have been either Stitched or Run together....

Over-cast - Insert the Needle about halfway between the Running and the raw edge, from the far side of the ridge, pointing inwards; and, beginning from the left, work to the right , taking the stitches rather widely apart.

Over-sewing - A method of Plain-sewing, otherwise know as Seaming, or Top-sewing, and executed somewhat after the mannoer of OVER-CASTING. But the grand difference between Over-sewing and Over-casting is that the former is closely and finely executed for the uniting of two selvedges or folds of material, and the latter is very loosely done, and only for the purpose of keeping raw edges from ravelling out. Place the two selvedges side by side, insert the needle at the far side of the seam on the extreme right, and, having drawn it through, re-insert it close to the stitch already made, working from right to left. Extreme regularity in the length and disposition of the stitches should be carefully maintained. If the two pieces to be united have not selvedges, fold each inwards; and when the Over-sewing has been done, make a small double HEM on the wrong side, to conceal and secure the raw edges. in olden times, this stitch was known by the name of Over-hand.

Using these definitions, "stitching" is a backstitch, but it is done as part of the felling process, not the seaming process. Seaming is an overhand stitch joining two selvage edges together (CWS Note: When done well it is practically invisible), or to join two folded edges. The stitch is diagonal, but it is done on the very edge of the fabric, not on a line a certain distance from the edge. The descriptions for running, run-and-fell, and felling are consistent with those we discussed in previous posts. The seam done by the "German needlewomen" in Virginia's post may be called an Over-hand seam, an Over-sewn seam, or just Seamed.

Using Caulfield's definitions, a "run-and-fell" seam is first sewn with a running stitch, then felled. This is consistent with what is found on original garments. A "seam-and-fell" seam would be first sewn with an over-hand stitch, then felled. This is also consistent with what is found on original garments. And "stitching" or backstitching is used during the felling process, not to join the two layers together before felling. This is not consistent with what is found on original mid-century garments; usually a small whip or hemming stitch is used to secure the fell.

There is no definition in Caulfield's for a "flat-felled seam"; and "run-and-fell" still seems to be the most common period term for a seam resembling the modern flat-felled seam.

[KittyK]

Re: Flat felled seams and backstitching

Okay, so now my head hurts thinking about all these variations! :) If I "run and fell" a seam, and then whip/hem stitch down the fell, is that going to be a very strong seam? I thought a "stitch" (today called a backstitch) was what you were supposed to use to give the joining of the pieces (what we would today call a seam) strength.

Cheers,
Katharine Kolb

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Flat felled seams and backstitching

If I "run and fell" a seam, and then whip/hem stitch down the fell, is that going to be a very strong seam?

A survey of extant original garments shows that it is, if it's done in the period manner: an average of 8-12 (or more) running stitches/inch; 8-12 (or more) hem stitches/inch; an occasional back stitch to prevent unraveling if the seam comes open. Run-and-fell seams sewn at 3-4 stitches/inch aren't going to be as durable. :)

I thought a "stitch" (today called a backstitch) was what you were supposed to use to give the joining of the pieces (what we would today call a seam) strength.

That does seem to be a common theory today, but I've not found it supported by the construction techniques used on original civilian garments. There are some examples of original civilian garment with the occasional backstitched seam, but it is not nearly as common as a run-and-fell seam or any of the other seams, including a plain seam that is not felled. (Back)Stitched seams may be more common and there may be more documentation for its use on military uniforms; that's not my particular area of interest and I haven't done enough research on their construction to make a determination. If there is, I'll be interested in exploring the reasons why it would be used on uniforms but not on other articles of sturdy durable clothing like "work" clothes.

...so now my head hurts
I did say we were nit-picky about these things. :)

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Flat felled seams and backstitching

But, nit-picky in a good way.

At Wichita a few weekends ago, one of the ladies brought some original chemises, and one had "seamed" seams (overhand/whipped seams" down the sides where selvedge joined selvedge, and a truly miniature fell where selvedge joined cut edges in the gore (about 1/8" wide). It's one thing to explain with words a seamed seam, but another entirely to get to show one... those teeny whipped stitches do flatten out perfectly, with absolutely NO bulk behind them. One had to look to actually find the seam, as the selvedges were very tidy, and the seam practically invisible.

Carolann, you may be correct on the few chemises I've come across that had the fell on the outside of the clothing... they may well have been constructed inside out to some degree. One, at least, seems to have been done deliberately this way, though, as the upper edges were highly embellished, as were the sleeve hems, and all the construction (even in the sleeves, where it would be fairly easy to tell right from wrong sides) were done this same direction. (Of course, there has to be an exception to "prove" a common thing. LOL)

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Flat felled seams and backstitching

One, at least, seems to have been done deliberately this way, though, as the upper edges were highly embellished, as were the sleeve hems, and all the construction (even in the sleeves, where it would be fairly easy to tell right from wrong sides) were done this same direction. (Of course, there has to be an exception to "prove" a common thing. LOL)

It very well could have been done deliberately. Maybe the seamstress discovered she was putting it together inside out and just continued the project. After all, if it looks deliberate it's not a mistake, is it. LOL Or perhaps she just preferred to construct hers that way. It is very easy to do, as evidenced by a reproduction chemise I made some years ago with the hem finished to the right side instead of the wrong side. :p

"Seamed" seams are really quite common on chemises, especially early ones. The other garment where I frequently find beautifully executed "seamed" seams are men's shirts. It's amazing how often the owner mistakes them for a flaw in the fabric until it's pointed out to them.

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Flat felled seams and backstitching

It is very easy to do, as evidenced by a reproduction chemise I made some years ago with the hem finished to the right side instead of the wrong side.

Ah, that explains the inside-out placket on my husband's "Idiot Seamstress" shirt... three times running.

To add a touch of useful content:

A running stitch seam really does hold perfectly well in a run and fell seam (provided it's stitched with greater frequency than 3-4 per inch, as mentioned above). The felling seems to distribute force more evenly, and all raw edges are protected from wear and exposure.

It can be gratifying to find originals with "sloppy" stitching... and to see just how very well they do hold up. Women's bodices, for instance, that are under tremendous fitting stresses in some cases, with 8-10 running stitches per inch in a plain running seam with no further finishing, that held up wonderfully.

This is definitely a thread I'll be copying over for the Citizen's side of things!

[KathyBradford]

Re: Flat felled seams and backstitching

Below, please find (sideways) photos from the bottom edges of two original chemises; years made are unknown. There are examples of three types of seams mentioned in this thread. Carolann or Elizabeth, please correct the terminology.

First, please notice the selvages butted together and seamed to increase the tapered circumference along the bottom edge. These pieces appear to be cut from excess fabric in the underarm area.

Next, although the side seams appear to be machine sewn with tiny stitches, the felling is hem-stitched by hand.

The hem of the chemise is also stitched by hand.

The dimensions and scale of these seams are remarkably tiny. The width of the felling is less than 1/8th of an inch.

The second and third photos are inside and outside photos of the same garment.

Other features are stroked gathers, hand-tatted lace along the neckline and sleeves, and a second layer of fabric reinforcing the underarm area and yoke.

Sorry that this is clearly a civilian garment in a military forum, but it shows felling.

As a side note, these garments were originally given to me to be "cut up and make haversacks for my kids". Otherwise, they were going to be used "to check the oil in the car". :confused_ I made haversacks from canvas and everyone was happy.

Thank you for the great information in this thread.

[Virginia Mescher]

Re: flat-felled and French seams

[QUOTE=Carolann Schmitt]As we strive to produce garments using appropriate period construction techniques, I think it's important that we use the correct terminology. This discussion and many previous discussions on this forum and others repeatedly refer to the seam under discussion as a "flat-felled" seam. I would be very interested in hearing from anyone who has primary source documentation from this period that uses the term "flat-felled". The period sewing references I have all refer to this seam as a run and fell seam. I don't have my reference library at this location, but IIRC the term "flat-felled seam" doesn't come into use until much later in the century and perhaps not until the 20th century.

I asked Melissa Roberts, a teacher of 19th century handsewing techniques, about when the term "flat-felled" and "French seam" and this is what how she responded.

"The first actual use of the term "flat fell" I see is in Thomas Whittaker,
1893, _Handbook for Sewing School Teachers_. All other books I scanned,
American and English, until Butterick's "The Dressmaker", 1911, continue to
use plain "felling." In both of the new appearances, the term replaces the
older "felling," and is used to distinguish a French seam (French fell) from
regular felling (flat fell)."

From _The Dressmaker_ Butterick, 1911.

_The Butterick_ 1911, however, is as follows:
"A flat fell seam has one edge hemmed down to protect the other raw edge. It is used principally for underwear. Baste the edges together, and sew with
combination stitch [running with occasional backstitches, MR]. If the edges
are bias, sew from the broad part of the pieces to the narrow, to prevent
raveling and stretching. Remove bastings, trim the edge toward you close to
the sewing line, and turn the other edge flatly over it, pressing hard with
the thumb nail. Make a narrow turning, baste and hem."

For French seams.
The first illustration of a french seam appears in _Leçons de Couture_ . It [French seam] is called "couture double déployée." It doesn't become part of the manuals until the 90s and is called French seam or French fell. Apparently it wasn't viewed as the ultimate in convenience and neatness the way we see it today. The inner "ridge" was considered a drawback, and while we think it quick, it took longer to work than a mantua-maker's hem."

_Leçons de Couture_ by Mme. Emmeline Raymond (1868)
"This stitch, very often used in the clothing industries, when made without
a lining, is composed of a seam made by a running stitch, which joins
together two pieces. When this first seam is finished, one turns over the
work (see the drawing No. 40, representing the couture double déployée), so
that the edges of the fabric are inside the seam; then one sews the two
pieces together a second time, allowing a half-centimetre of distance from
the first seam, also using a running stitch."

I hope this helps.