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I've just received my great-great grandfathers key wind pocket watch. It's not running, I need a name of someone who works on these watches and is good. Thanks
I've just received my great-great grandfathers key wind pocket watch. It's not running, I need a name of someone who works on these watches and is good. Thanks
J. Michael Perry
Jppard
Mr. Perry:
You might try contacting Michael Clark in Williamsburg, OH. I know he sells key wind watches. He has done a repair for me, but the watch was originally purchased form him, so, not sure if he takes on other jobs or not. Hope this helps.
Regards,
Jay Roger
You might not to look too hard to find a competent jeweler who can work on your watch. After checking a few locally (southern Maine) I found a jeweler 5 miles from my house who specializes in restoring old pocket watches. He's done great work on two of my watches that are now as accurate and reliable as any modern watch I own.
Go to a good reputable jeweler in your area and if they not able to do the work they should be able to recommend someone who can.
Mr. Perry:
You might try contacting Michael Clark in Williamsburg, OH. I know he sells key wind watches. He has done a repair for me, but the watch was originally purchased form him, so, not sure if he takes on other jobs or not.
Unless he has changed his policy, Mr. Clark only repairs watches he sells.
When seeking someone to repair a period watch, be sure to ask them if they can rebuild parts. Many of the pieces needed are no longer available, especially with "off brand" models.
The watch probably needs a good cleaning and adjustment, but many of the old timepieces needed a light thump to goad the movement into action. This may not work, but wind it about half to three-quarters tight, hold it firmly, and gently tap it in the palm of your other hand once or twice. Many a dead keywind timepiece has shuddered back to life this way, and cured that horrid sinking feeling one gets when an old friend doesn't tick-tock any more.
A few years ago, the forum had a very nice thread concerning proper storage of old timepieces, and it mentioned they were kept vertical in a stand rather than flat on the back (horizontal). I don't remember if that was bogus advice or not, but such stands do exist and can be found in antique shops from time to time, and I've kept my 154 yr old keywind upright when it is not in use.
A fellow with a sharp eye can find original and reproduction watch keys at shops, and sometimes even on the dreaded skinner row at events. Even a blind hog finds an acorn now and then, so it's worth a look, but bring your watch to ensure a good fit, as they come in different sizes. A spare key is like that spare cone in the implement pouch. You don't want it until you need it, and they don't grow on trees. :wink_smil
This is of no real help in your quest for repair, but just a few thoughts worth passing along once again.
many of the old timepieces needed a light thump to goad the movement into action.
I would vigorously disagree with this advice, because it's not possible to describe what a "light" thump is. The most vulnerable part of these watches is the fly wheel, which is mounted on two tiny pins. Any forceful impact will shear one or both of the pins off, and you're SOL. A better suggestion is to pop open the back cover and GENTLY push the flywheel with a toothpick or some other light pointer and see if it will run on its own.
I have experience with the effects of too much force applied to the flywheel when gravity demonstrated its reality on my grandfather's pocket watch.
I would recommend that you not use anything to touch the balance wheel. Just put the watch in the palm of your hand and rotate your hand back and forth. The balance wheel should start to spin back and forth if it is free.
If the watch has been sitting up for some time I would suggest that you have the watch professionaly cleaned and serviced by someone who knows what they are doing. There are certain areas in the movement which are oiled and if the watch has been sitting for a long period of time the oil dries up and gets thick. The old oil needs to be removed (movement cleaned) and new oil in its place. There could be a problem with the staff or one of the piviots. Also the mainspring could be "set", (weak) or broken. If your watch is going to be put up for some time, say 5, 6 months or more, wind the watch and let it run for a few days a month. This will keep the oil from starting to dry up.
You can get "new" keys from someone who can service the movement. The problem that I have found with original keys is that they are are worn out. The originals look great but the corners are rounded out and the key slips.
I have to echo what Bruce and others have said, and add a few comments of my own. Unless you are experienced with repairing mechanical watches, do not touch any of the escapement parts inside the watch. If a watch will not take off on its own when wound, it has a problem. It could be dirt, old congealed oil, or any one of a number of other things that are best left to an experienced watch repair person. Mechanical watches are tiny machines built to very close tolerances. Any type of shock or tinkering could cause one of these parts to become misaligned, bent or broken.
There were many types of watches in use during the Late Unpleasantness. The vast majority were English, Swiss, German, or French (check out the ads in the back pages of period newspapers). All watches imported into America during the period were built one at a time, by small watch making concerns. Often they would buy incomplete movements and finish them. Unfortunately, it is nearly impossible to find parts to repair these imported timepieces; if yours is an import and is not working, your best bet is to find a reputable watchmaker and have that person look at your watch and give you an estimate for how much it will cost to fix the watch. It may cost more than the watch is worth to have it repaired. If your watch was made in America, you have a little better chance of finding someone with parts to fix the watch, especially if it was made by the American Watch Company (Waltham). By 1861, AWC was producing thousands of machine-made watches per year, in several different sizes and grades. The 18 size Model 1857 is still fairly easy to find in running condition, although the reenacting community has driven the price up. That brings me to another word of caution- American watches (even the lower grades) were very expensive in their day. For instance, an 18 size, 7-jewel William Ellery-grade AWC watch ran about $25 with case. That's nearly two months pay for a private soldier during the war.
If I had to send one of my keywinds to someone for repair, I would recommend Ed Ueberrol at The Escapement. He's not cheap, but IMHO he's the best there is for restoring old watches. Use your search engine to find his contact information. Also, if you want to learn about old watches, the best reference is Complete Price Guide to Watches by Cooksey Shugart et al. You should be able to find a copy in your local bookstore.
Sorry to be so long winded, but I thought I would share what I have learned over the years with y'all.
You say, "I would vigorously disagree with this advice, because it's not possible to describe what a "light" thump is."
On second thought, and after much consideration, I heartily agree with you, especially for those individuals who have no Earthly concept of the use of the word "light" before the word "thump," nor the literal or figurative application thereof! My advice, well not precisely mine, but a kindly knack given to me by a professional watch repairman some years ago, could lead to tens of thousands of elderly and honorable timepieces being handled roughly.
Why, any precision timepiece owning man about town could be soundly confused between the "light thump" of a fully laden barge against a wharf; the 12-mph "light thump" coupling when a pair of boxcars connect via the marvel of post-war knuckle coupler in yonder switchyard, or the "light thump" a mature Sequoia renders to the soil as it falls to the sod in one motion, and the impact of just a 1 or 2 ounce gentle force against the palm of one's own manus by a piece of finely crafted machinery moved by a loving hand. Yes, quite yes, these lofty matters are best left to an expert who can discern between infinite degrees of thumps without become deranged, depressed, or demoralized. Thank you for the reminder Ben Franklin said so well so many years ago, "There is nothing so uncommon as common sense."
Between my Elgins and my prize Waltham, I would NEVER even think about stabbing around inside or manually agitating the balance wheel. A good cleaning usually does the trick. Parts have to be repleaced from time to time also. And like Chales says, a tap on the back usually starts them right up.
Don't go oiling your watch up either, a single drop of oil would oil several watches. Too much oil is just as bad as no oil.
[i][b]At the dawn of the 21st century the human species does appear to be in a rapid state of de-evolution. The time for personal salvation is now, while the people terrorize each other like warring insects, all the while crying out for global change and healing. Can we as a species hope to achieve something as grandiose as constructing a Heaven on Earth, when our very souls are rotten and empty?[/b][/i]
Good watchmakers are as rare as hen's teeth anymore -- there were only two in all of San Diego until last year -- now we're down to one. I would also echo the sentiments of the other posters: the insides of a mechanical watch (especially an antique mechanical watch with sentimental value) are no place for amateurs.
A good place to start is the American Watch and Clockmaker's Institute:
If at all possible, try to find someone in your area with a Master Watchmaker certification from AWI; a Master Watchmaker is more likely to have the knowlege, skills and tools to correct any and all problems your watch may have.
Your Obedient Servant,
Malachi
_____________________________________
George N. Popa III
"Artillery brings dignity to an otherwise vulgar brawl"
I've just received my great-great grandfathers key wind pocket watch. It's not running, I need a name of someone who works on these watches and is good. Thanks
J. Michael Perry
Jppard
You should contact The Pocketwatcher - guy named Rex in California (check his website for contact information).
Testimonial: My wife bought a watch as a gift from a local shop here in Austin, was told it was a 1855 Fuzee. Silver marks indicate it is actually a size 18 1867 Fuzee - made in England. Anyway, it lost about an hour per day and I took it to a Central Texas vendor who specializes in selling watches and maintains parts supplies. He wound up keeping the watch for two years without being able to repair it (I got mobilized during this period) when I returned, I got the watch back - clean, but in pieces. I sent the watch to the Pockewatcher and within 3 WEEKS it was repaired, damaged/worn parts replaced / built, spring adjusted and keeps good time now ($108 including shipping). During the whole process Rex advised me of receipt, progress on the repair, options and the cost associated with them, and finally when watch was shipped back. A great experience.
Sorry for the digression, but I am very impressed with the service I recieved.
Mr. Perry,
Another option for you to try is The Antique Watch Company in Atlanta. Their web site is www.antiquewatchcompany.com.
I took my Waltham watch to them on two different occasions and they provided excellent service and a fair price. I have recommended others and they have also done so with the same results.
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