Here I am, criticize me

[Texyank]

I just finished my blouse and offer myself up for constructive criticism (read: things you would change before wearing in the field). I appreciate any insight the sewers among you can provide. Looking forward to a little what not to wear (or hopefully, what to wear ;)).

thanks,

ps. those lovely looking hands are not mine, my lovely bride took the photos for me as I am stuck in Boston airport experiencing "minor" delays.

[Rebbeh]

Re: Here I am, criticize me

my only gripe, not enough polyester thread.

i kid, i kid :D looks great!

[brown]

Re: Here I am, criticize me

Jason,
That is not an easy garment to work with aqnd I think you did well for your first one. I guess in the constructive criticism department I'd ask questions rather than really comment b/c it is your work, you should be able to think about it, and you are the person who must be happy with it (and I would if I'd done it).
Does it look like originals you've seen?
Wear/hang like them?
Why did you pick a certain cloth, thread, color, stitch, pattern, etc?
How does it serve X impression that you are trying to acheive?

As I said, nice work. Did you cut it yourself, or is it a kit (perhaps from an approved vendor)?

Thanks for posting the pictures.

[Texyank]

Re: Here I am, criticize me

It is a kit from an approved vendor of excellent repute.

I have not seen original SA blouses in person, only in pictures and those were not terribly detailed.

Absolute fealty to originals being my "stretch" goal I appreciate the feedback.

[Dale Beasley]

Re: Here I am, criticize me

Was the wool taken from a sheep, that was cloned from DNA of a sheep, whose wool was used by an approaved vendor, while on campaign during the middle part of the war?...it looks great...you gotta love it.

[Craig L Barry]

Re: Here I am, criticize me

Jason:

Kudos on the effort here. This looks like a good job on this project and not altogether an easy one to start with. The DNA of the sheep aside, one common failing of reproduction sack coats is the wrong weight fabric. So, let's assume the kit is good (correct weight diagonal wool flannel and cut properly), and it certainly looks good in the pictures, then what you are really asking about is the workmanship of the seamstress in putting it together, or were period correct construction techniques used? This is difficult to evaluate if the specimen is not in hand. As far as absolute fealty to "the original"...that depends on what original? Due to the number of variations in style that would depend on who made the original and how it was made...according to Patrick Brown (author of the Federal Sack Coat book For Fatigue Purposes) "as far as typology...forget it, there were too many variations". The jacket seems to "hang" well on a hanger, and hopefully it drapes similarly on you.

There are characteristics of originals in terms of construction (sewing). To be fair, the garment needs to be in hand to evaluate the construction techniques. One possible question being the type of thread used. Most Federal sack coats were sewn with logwood dyed linen thread, which starts off dark blue (dark grayish blue...logwood is an indicator dye) and fades to a dark brown hue with exposure to the sun. The correct color thread looks a bit strange, but that is the nature of vat dying with vegetable dyestuffs. What sort of thread did you use here? If it is logwood dyed linen the color does not appear dark enough. Could that be a factor of the flash photography or is the thread more in the "khaki" color spectrum? Logwood dyed thread is still available but does not work well in modern sewing machines. If the period correct linen thread is used, the jacket would probably need to be completely hand sewn. The front and pocket areas appear hand sewn, and the stitches migrate a little as appropriate. A darker brown thread might more closely imitate the appearance of the (logwood dyed linen) period thread after wearing time, and these threads can be used for machine sewing, so some settle on that for a reasonable compromise. Obviously the logwood dyed thread offers the truest insight into the correct coloration and appearance of period garments. Sack coats were often machine sewn with hand sewn button holes. Period sewing machines could not easily do button holes. The detail of the lining can't really be determined from photos re: the work around the arm pits, etc but you can evaluate this by comparing it up close. Were the sleeve linings hand stitched?

Most of this is from The Watchdog: Volume 6, No. 4 Autumn, 1998, a review of John Wedeward's excellent repro Federal sack coat. If you are really interested in evaluating how you did, I would refer you to that article, Patrick Brown's FFP (sack coat) book, and his articles in the Watchdog on the fine points/details of the Federal sack. Back issues are available at www.watchdogreview.com, an approved A-C vendor.

This is not a criticism, though...your effort is surely better than most commercially available sack coats, and you are certainly to be excused if you don't find the coloration of vegetable dyed threads as fascinating as I do. Most of us (self included) struggle to sew a canvas gun sack.

[Texyank]

Re: Here I am, criticize me

The coat is 100% handsewn. The thread is greyish blue and I assume it is logwood dyed. It is a relatively heavy thread (at least I think so). I know it is difficult to tell from pictures but I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't looking at it as a parent might look at a homely child.

Mr. Wedeward has graciously agreed to share some of his accumulated research on sacks and I am awaiting that right now.

Appreciate the positive feedback.

Cheers,

Jason

[Craig L Barry]

Re: Here I am, criticize me

Wedeward would be an excellent resource. He has the logwood dyed thread, too. It is difficult to tell the actual color on this coat from the indoor flash photos (vs outdoor daylight) or in hand. The logwood dyed thread is kind of a fine point, and if it is logwood it will fade to a brown color with exposure to the sun. Overall it looks like a really good job, one you can be proud of.

As far as hand stitching, you avoided the biggest mistake which is too much variation in the stitch width. This is pretty consistent hand sewing overall. IIRC, most of the JT Martin contract sacks were partially machine sewn, but I hardly think the decision to hand sew makes for a less authentic "look". Not at all, I also wouldn't characterize it as a "homely child" by any stretch. I'm not sure everybody should sew their own jackets, but if they sew like you did on this one...it would be fine. Not much to criticize here.

[roundshot]

Re: Here I am, criticize me

Looks like a SA Blouse to me, based on pocket shape and other details,probably from a Wambaugh kit. I've done one myself. Wear it with pride. Very nice.

[reddcorp]

Re: Here I am, criticize me

IMHO, you have done a fine job on a not so easy project.
When can you get my size 46 regular to me? I need it in about two weeks.
Just kidding.
You have inspired me to take a stab at some work myself.

Andy Redd

[Texyank]

Re: Here I am, criticize me

Mr. Williams,

Your observation from a previous thread, "once you roll your own you will be hooked" is indeed correct. This was a very rewarding project. Appreciate your insight.

Andy,

Go for it. This kit was a joy (most of the time) to work on. I can't wait for my next project, whatever that turns out to be.

Yer pard,

[lambrew]

Re: Here I am, criticize me

Sir....

About how long did it take to complete the job? My sewing skills are in the novice range, but I was thinking about going the same rout as you did. Is this a job a novice can do? Your opinion is greatly appreciated. Your coat looks great!


Your ob't servant....
Sean Collicott

[Texyank]

Re: Here I am, criticize me

Sean,

Since I can't say whether or not you will be able to do this project I will describe my sewing skills.

totally novice. I had put together an issue shirt before and that is all. The instructions that Mr. Wambaugh provides are quite detailed but more pictures of how the finished steps look would be good. However, by getting pictures of coats from the web you can easily see how certain steps are accomplished.

Also, as has been repeated numerous times, Mr. Wambaugh is quite helpful and will spend the time necessary to help you through steps, either by email or phone.

I think the coat took me 3 to 4 weeks and I worked on it pretty obsessively (ok, every waking minute I could manage while not pissing off my bride).

I won't say "go for it" but I will say this was a very satisfying project and that I wouldn't be afraid of it.

Also, there are many great threads and research articles on this forum for things such as stitch types and making buttonholes (the only REALLY challenging part in my opinion).

Hope this helps,

yer pard

[lambrew]

Re: Here I am, criticize me

Jason....

Thanks for the pointers. I think I will give it a try.


Your ob't servant....
Sean Collicott