How do I get started making my own clothing?

[davidf]

In the past few months, I have been learning a lot about the reenacting world, and came to the conclusion that it was about time that I should learn how to make my own clothing. Not only would this benefit my knowledge of Civil War era material culture and probably the most efficient way for me to get new clothing (I am a poor college student :( ), but also I could use the experience to add to a 1st person impression of a taylor possibly and maybe if I am really good at this I could possibly make clothing for others. But here is my problem, I have no clue where to start. My plan this summer is to start this whole process. But where do I begin? Well, obviously learning how to sew would be the first step, but where do you learn how to do that in a period fashion? And what about after that? I have looked around the forums and did not find a thread that related to this subject. The only things I know are that you should study period photos and read period sources are always good things to do. But which are the goods ones for that and are accessible? What about getting material and which material is correct for use. The only guide I have at my hands really is the Columbia Rifles Compedium. If it helps to know, I am a student at Gettysburg College. My goal is by the end of the year to have made a new Schuylkill Depot Sack Coat that would fit a 1862-1864 period impression.

[Kace]

Re: How do I get started making my own clothing?

David:

My suggestion is to check out Wambaugh, White and Co one of the approved vendors on the AC. They have some kits that are pretty nice and well documented. I had a friend do one. He is all thumbs so if he was able to do a credible job you anyone should.

Kace

[Pvt_Sullivan]

Re: How do I get started making my own clothing?

Dave,

You'll need to learn how to sew and like most things these days you can find it on the internet. One resource I've used was...

http://www.vintagesewing.info/19th.html

It has a complete late 19th Century Sewing book on line. You need to know the running stitch, the backstitch, the whip stitch and the buttonhole stitch. You can practice on pieces of cloth. I made a number of different sized poke sacks to practice before making my first shirt.

Good luck and enjoy...

[Andrew Kasmar]

Re: How do I get started making my own clothing?

Hi,

I agree with Mr. Berezuk, that you should start with polk bags and then move on to kits from W,W and Company. That is how I learned how to sew. Once you have the basics and are able to read a pattern you should be able to sew yourself some very authentic pieces of clothing.

Andrew Kasmar

4th Missouri Company E

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: How do I get started making my own clothing?

Some good advice here so far... here's my additional two cents...

Hemming a handkerchief and sewing a poke bag give you a chance to practice some fundamental stitches, while making items you can use for your impression. After that, there are some simple pattern CS haversacks, if you are so inclined.

Shirts are pretty simple. Any garment you sew for the first time will be easier if you have a completed example to view as you go. So, if you can borrow something from a pard as you get going, that'll help. ...plus shirt fabric is a lot cheaper than woolens, so you can afford to screw something up and cut a new piece.

After you've done a shirt, I'd say you'd be able to tackle a jacket with no problem. I actually made my first frock before I made a jacket! My only prior experience sewing a garment was shirts (however, I had plenty of caps, handkerchiefs, writing kits, and poke bags under my belt at that time).

Above all, JUST DO IT! You'll never learn anything reading books... you gotta pick up a needle and thread.

I would also advise you to invest in a nice iron, an ironing board, and a sleeve board. A good pair of sharp scissors doesn't hurt either. When you are ready to start sewing garments, get some wood chisels to cut the buttonholes.

That's about it. There's lots of resources on the web if you run into problems or get stuck.

Have Fun!!!

[CJDaley]

Re: How do I get started making my own clothing?

Since you're in Gettysburg David, you should consider attend the plethora of sewing classes and seminars right in your back door. There are scores of classes available throughout the year for beginners to sew various items.

Also, take a drive over to Needle and Thread fabrics, they have a full line of authentic Civil War patterns, authentic fabric and several beginner sewing books.

This is all right in your back door.

Also, while I have seen several accounts spelling the trade name 'taylor', you may want to use the more common spelling of 'tailor' when doing a first person impressions.

[davidf]

Re: How do I get started making my own clothing?

Well, thank you all for your responses so far. I definately got a good idea of what to do now. I think I will take Daley's advice and go visit Needles and Threads (where is that again? Is that the thing right next to Daley's retail shop in Gettysburg?) and see if I can't find a good beginner's book on sewing. I will also use the online source book that was linked in a earlier post for help as well. If I have any problems, I can probably ask for some help from the girls in my on campus reenacting group (the Pennsylvania College Guard, half of our group are civilian reenactors, some of who have sewing experience). After I get some basics down, I'll probably sew up some handerchiefs and poke bags (though I have a lot of poke bags I purchased already, I'll see if I can't convince some of my friends in my group to buy, or maybe at some event this summer?), and then I'll see if I can't pull of doing a white domet flannel federal issue shirt. After that, then i'll tackle a sack coat (my ultimate goal).
But looking through all the info and various patterns and etc., which one do you go with? I have a list of links below from what I have collected in terms of places to buy (I hope that all of the other people reading this in the same place as me get some help from this List too):

Wambaugh, White, & Company ( http://www.wwandcompany.com/ ):
C.S. Kits: http://www.wwandcompany.com/cskits.html
U.S. Kits: http://www.wwandcompany.com/fedkits.html

County Cloth (Chas R. Childs) ( http://www.crchilds.com/index.htm ):
C.S. Patterns: http://www.crchilds.com/id15.htm
C.S. Kits: http://www.crchilds.com/id16.htm
U.S. Patterns: http://www.crchilds.com/id19.htm
U.S. Kits: http://www.crchilds.com/id20.htm

The Company Tailor ( http://companytailor.googlepages.com/home ):
Patterns: http://companytailor.googlepages.com/patterns

B. Tart (offers kits, see price list): http://www.bentart.com/index.html

James County Mercantile Homespun Patterns: http://www.jamescountry.com/patterns...npatterns.html

Needles and Thread (offer patterns as well?): http://www.woodedhamlet.com/index.html



But which one does someone go with? Is it better to just buy a kit or buy a pattern and gather the materials yourself (which on would cost less)? Also, how does one get themselves familiar with what is a good reproduction thread or fabric?

[GreencoatCross]

Re: How do I get started making my own clothing?

Knowing how to sew is obviously helpful but there's something else that no one has touched on yet.

Research. If at all possible, get yourself to a local museum, historical society, private collector, etc. and check out what they might have in their collections. If you cannot do that then I suggest reading up on articles focused on the study of extant garments. The CRRC II is a great source to be sure but can be general in some areas, and there are many works available for reading in the "Research Articles" section of this website. Chris Daley offers studies (with photos) of various original garments on his website as well.

One of the best things you can do to help you better understand the military material culture of the period is research and study. The knowledge and understanding gained by this will go a long way in helping you produce clothing for yourself that will be very accurate.

Good luck with your project!

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

Re: How do I get started making my own clothing?

Also look into joining the Company of Military Historians. The back issues of their magazine are full of incredible data on original pieces in members collections, with insightful articles breaking them down. There are many pieces out there that just aren't viewable to the general public, and membership has it privileges, as they say. I believe you qualify for the student rate if you are in college, so I highly recommend this fine organization. Go to www.military-historians.org.

[JMWasko]

Re: How do I get started making my own clothing?

Gentleman,
I am new to the authentic campaigner community, but am looking to make my own clothing soon as well, at least from kits available. While on the subject of making one's own uniform, would it be inappropriate to ask how one might go about learning to make leather accoutrements? Unlike clothing, there aren't kits around, nor are there patterns. Is there a way to get started making my own beside copying examples and studying originals? My dad has done leatherwork for awhile and taught me a little, but never period techniques etc. I apoligize if this is inappropriate to the thread, but thankful for any help.

[Minieball577]

Re: How do I get started making my own clothing?

Here is an article I wrote a long while back that you might find some interest in. http://www.nwtskirmisher.com/useful-extra1.shtml

[JMWasko]

Re: How do I get started making my own clothing?

This looks very helpful sir, but off to bed for me.
Thanks!

Any other takers?

[ElizabethClark]

Re: How do I get started making my own clothing?

Not on the topic of leathers, but if you're needing clothing visuals, Jim Ruley has a series of project tutorials with scads of pictures in the gentlemen's section here:

https://www.thesewingacademy.org

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: How do I get started making my own clothing?

Not on the topic of leathers, but if you're needing clothing visuals, Jim Ruley has a series of project tutorials with scads of pictures in the gentlemen's section here:

www.thesewingacademy.org

Jim Ruley's sewing is not human. I'm convinced he's a terminator! He is really, really good and his pics on Liz's site are very, very good instruction... I'm in the midst of making a garment based almost solely on these pics and a couple off line questions... and so far, so good. Based on some of his techniques, I've been rethinking my approach to several steps in making jackets.

[23rdIllinoisIrish]

Re: How do I get started making my own clothing?

David,
A word of warning regarding Homespun Pattern Co. Those patterns are easy to work with and show you what different hand stitches look like. However, the patterns to run about a size small. If you are a large, it is best to get an extra large and, even then, measure the sleeves especially. I warn because I was robbed of a Confed. Shell and Fed. Sack because of trusting printed measurements.

Thanks and best of luck,
Matt Shomaker