period paint

[33rdaladrummer]

Have any of you all had any luck working with period paint? I've been experimenting with linseed oil based paint (artist's paint in a tube) mixed with boiled linseed oil and turpentine. The resulting finish, which has a low-gloss appearance, is satisfactory, but the coating is not very durable. I have considered applying a topcoat of shellac varnish, but understand that the paint underneath must be completely dry, which seems like it could take months. I am wondering if there is a recipe for a more hard-curing paint, perhaps an early form of enamel. Any suggestions?

[Chad Wrinn]

Re: period paint

http://www.geocities.com/union_guard...ccoutermen.htm'
Here is a website that list all of the recipes and gives good descriptions
Warning on the linseed-oil if you apply to much it will take months to dry properly.

[Material Culture]

Re: period paint

For painting wood, not cloth accouterments, One reciept called for White lead mixed in linsead oil (White lead is a fine powder also known as lead carbonate)
lead would be the ingredient used as a dryer and would prevent crazing which would happen in paints using zinc. White lead would be the brightest white known.

Sam Hayle
Too poor to paint, too proud to Whitewash mess

[gilham]

Re: period paint

I would think that mixing in the right amount of japan dryer would give you the effect you are looking for . By that I mean a reduced drying time.
What the amout would be is up to trial and error. In my experience with dryer added to artist' paints it doe not take much. But consider this , when I mix it with my oil based artist paints I am dealing with small amounts of both paint and dryer.

[33rdaladrummer]

Re: period paint

Thanks for the suggestions. I have tried adding japan dryer, and also using the modern boiled linseed oil, which I undestand to be really just oil with dryers added. I have read about mixing in varnish to add gloss. I imagine it would make the paint harder too. I have worked with shellac, but it probably would not be good to mix with paint. Maybe with trial and error I could figure out the ideal proportion, but I wonder what type of varnish would be best. I cannot think of any modern varnish available other than shellac that is made from the same ingredients that were used in the 19th century. It would be probably have to be varnish made from scratch. By the way, I am painting wood, drum hoops in fact. I wonder what kind of paint was used on boats back then. I'm sure that would work. ???

[Material Culture]

Re: period paint

Modern Shellac is completely different from period stuff. Marine spar varnish is the closest thing you can get. (which is what is used on Boats)

Sam Hayle
Boat Owner Mess

[33rdaladrummer]

Re: period paint

In what way do you think modern shellac is different? The stuff that comes in a can is pretty much just natural shellac disolved in alcohol. Are you sure about the spar varnish? It may be quite different actually, just like modern oil paint is made from synthetic alkyd oil.

[August77]

Re: period paint

Will,
Have you considered using milk paint? Not sure how correct it is in different applications, I've never studied that sort of thing, but it might be an avenue worth looking into. I have purchased milk paint from a company for a couple projects (not CW related) and had a good experience in dealing with them. If you want to try it out they can be found here:

http://www.milkpaint.com/

It comes as a powder and you will have to mix the paint, but it's really not that complex. I believe they sell a historical version and a modern version so keep your eyes open if decide to give it a try. Best of luck to you!