Rebuilding the FAQ - what would you add?

[paulcalloway]

As with everything else on this forum, we must build it again. The FAQ is no different. I'd like that to become a useful tool again.

What should we put in there? Include links to useful posts, repetitive discussions etc so we can easily get it plugged in there. Please answer the same old questions one more time so we can henceforth just direct them to the FAQ.

I'm counting on everyone's help ... it'll save us all time in the long run.

Cheerio.

[JimKindred]

Re: Rebuilding the FAQ - what would you add?

Paul,

Curt Schmitt put together a great set of articles dealing with research how to's that ought to go somewhere on permanent file here.

[Tom Ezell]

Re: Rebuilding the FAQ - what would you add?

Please answer the same old questions one more time so we can henceforth just direct them to the FAQ.

I've still got the old tutorial on drill manuals that I was cleaning up for submittal to the WatchDog, as well as a clip file of stuff... I think I still have some of the old FAQs in there as well...

Tom

[Tom Ezell]

Old FAQ- acronyms peculiar to reenacting

A140 -- or whatever acronym that they're using for the Potomac Legion campaigner effort at Antietam

AAAG = Assistant Acting Adjutant General

AAG = Assistant Adjutant General

AAR = After Action Report

AC = Authentic Campaigner Website

ACF = Authentic Campaigner Forums (this place right here)

ACR = Authentic Campaigner Radio (a web-radio statioin that is a work-in-progress)

AG = Adjutant General

AGSAS = Atlantic Guard Soldier's Aid Society

AHC = Atlanta History Center

AoP = Army of the Pacific

AMMO = Not an acronym, nor was it a period abbreviation. 'Ammunition' was fully spelled out on period reports.

AWOL = Absent Without Leave

BIRD = Because it's right, Darnit!

BOB = "Better Off Bowling" (hey, are you actually trying to "reenact" anything or just playing dress up?)

CC = Citizens' Companion

CCG = Camp Chase Gazette

CCBF = Cedar Creek Battlefield Foundation

CD = Columbus Depot Jacket

CDV = Carte de Viste (French for 'Visual Card') - A type of mid 19th Century photograph where the image is exposed and processed on albumen paper then glued to hard paper card.

CITK = Consistency Is The Key!

C/P/H = Campaigner/Progressive/Hardcore

COI = Camp of Instruction

CRs = Columbia Rifles

CRRC = Columbia Rifles Research Compendium

CS = Confederate States of America

CSRs = Compiled Service Records

CWPT = Civil War Preservation Trust

CWSS = Civil War Soldiers & Sailors System

CVBT = Central Virginia Battlefield Trust

EBUFU = Events By Us, For Us

ECA = Eastern Campagner’s Alliance

EoG = 'Echoes of Glory' (Time-Life visual reference books of original gear)

ESRS = Eno Soldiers Relief Society

FGLHA = Frontier Guard Living History Association

GAG = 'Gods & Generals' (a most fitting acronym)

GAR = Grand Army of the Republic (eventually became the SUV when the vets all died out)

GBG = Getting Beyond Gear

GBTG = Getting Beyond the Gear (but first, get the gear)

GHTI = George Henry Thomas' Invincibles

GTG = Getting the Gear (next step, getting beyond the gear)

I-600 = Immortal 600 (An EBUFU at Fort Pulaski, Savannah, Ga.)

IA = Interpretive Area

IC = Invalid Corps or Inspected Condemned

IG = Inspector General

KISS = Keep it Simple, Stupid! (not exclusive to reenacting, but crucial to the Authenticity mindset)

LIM = Less Is More (not exclusive to reenacting, but crucial to the Authenticity mindset)

MOC = Museum of the Confederacy

MOSB = Military Order of the Stars and Bars (descendants of CS officers)

MOLLUS = Military Order of the Loyal Legion of the US (descendants of US officers)

NCO = Not a period anacronym; 'Non-Commissioned Officer' was fully spelled out on period records.

NUG-PEC = ?

OD = Officer of the Day

OP2K = Outpost 2000 (a very successful Georgia EBUFU)

ORs = ’Official Records of the War of the Rebellion’

OO = Ordnance Officer

PISS = Posers in Slick Suits

PL = Potomac Legion

PM = Pickett's Mill State Battlefield Site or Provost Marshall

PPPPPP = Prior Planning Prevents Piss-Poor Performance

P2K = Rob Hodge’s “Preservation 2000” March

QM = Quartermaster

RDI = Richmond Depot Jacket, first pattern (6 piece, 9 button shell, branch of service trim, etc) ca. 1862

RDII = Richmond Depot Jacket, 2nd pattern (no trim, epaulettes & belt loops, ca. 1863-64)

RDIII = Richmond Depot Jacket, 3rd pattern (no epaulettes nor belt loops, ca. 1864-65)

SA = Schuylkill Arsenal

SCV = Sons of Confederate Veterans

SFB = Sore Foot Boys

SIRs = Southern Independence Rifles

SGLHA = Southern Guard Living History Association

TBG = Tubby Bearded Guy (stereotypically, the average mainstream reenactor)

UCV = United Confederate Veterans (eventually became SCV when the vets all died out)

UDC = United Daughters of the Confederacy

USV = US Volunteers (generally used to refer to the modern fed. reenacting organization)

VRC = Veterans Reserve Corps

VS = Viel Sclopet (Latin for 'gunshot wound'), often found on Surgeon's reports.

WD = War Department

WIG = Western Independent Grays

WBTS = War Between the States

WWW = could be the World Wide Web but in women's clothing terms, it's Juanita Leisch's "Who Wore What", pretty much THE female reenacting sourcebook for what people actually wore

[Tom Ezell]

Old FAQ - Acronyms not exactly related to reenacting

AFAIK = As Far As I Know

AFAIR = As Far As I Remember

AFK = Away from Keyboard

AISB = As I Said Before

AIR = As I Recall

AIW = As It Were

AKA = Also Known As

AMF = Adios Mother F__ker

ASAP = As Soon As Possible

ATM = At The Moment

BB = Be Back

BBL = Be Back Later

BFD = Big F__king Deal!

BFN = Bye For Now

BRB = Be Right Back

BTW = By The Way

CC = Carbon Copy

CIAO = Italian for goodbye (pronounced 'Chow')

COD = Cash On Delivery

CYA = Cover Your A$$

CYA = See Ya

DK = Don’t Know

ETA = Estimated Time of Arrival

ETD = Estimated Time of Departure

F2F = Face To Face

FS = For Sale

FTM = For The Moment

FUBAR = F__ked Up Beyond Recognition

FYI = For Your Information

GTL = Gone To Lunch

HTML = Hyper Text Markup Language

IAE = In Any Event

IC = I See

IE = Internet Explorer

IE6 = Internet Explorer Version 6.0

IK = I Know

IMHO = In My Humble Opinion

IME = In My Experience

IMO = In My Opinion

IOU = I Owe You

ISP = Internet Service Provider

IP = Internet Provider

IP = Internet Protocol (your unique, traceable address)

JK = Just Kidding

K = Okay

LIM = Less is More

LOL = Laughing out Loud

KISS = Keep It Simple Stupid

MYOB = Mind Your Own Business

NBD = No Big Deal

NG = No Good

NP = No Problem

NRN = No Reply Necessary

NSN = Netscape Navigator

OIC = Oh, I See

OMG = Oh My G_d!

OTL = Out To Lunch

OW = Oh Well!

PDQ = Pretty D_mn Quick

PITA = Pain In The A$$

POS = Piece Of S__t

POV = Point Of View

PPL = People

PPPPPP = Prior Planning Prevents Piss-Poor Performance

RE = Regarding

ROTFLMAO = Rolling On The Floor Laughing My A** Off

RTS = Read The Screen

SIC = Spelling Incorrect

SOL = Sh_t Outta Luck!

SOSO = Same Old, Same Old

SNAFU = Situation Normal, All F__ked Up

TBC = To Be Continued

TC = Telephone Call

TCB = Taking Care of Business

U/L = Upload

VBG = Very Big Grin

WAG = Wild A$$ed Guess

WFM = Works For Me

WOM = Word Of Mouth

WTB = Want to Buy

WTF = What the F__k?

WTS = Want to Sell

WTT = Want to Trade

YOYO = You’re On Your Own

[Tom Ezell]

Old FAQ: Getting Beyond the Gear

What is the Campaigner's Manifesto?
What qualifies as an EBUFU Event?
How do I get invited to an invitation-only event?
Are there inexpensive ways to improve my impression?
Why should military reenactors give equal attention to civilian research as they do their own?
At what point does a recruit lose his 'fresh fish' status?
Was there a written set of rules that the Civil War soldiers had to abide by?
What is the difference between Scott's/Gilham's/Hardee's/Hardee's Revised drill manuals?
Whats the best book for me to read about Civil War soldiers?
What kind of food should I be taking to authentic events, and how should I prepare/carry it?
What are acceptable period topics for conversation while at an immersion event?
How do/can I develop a believable first-person impression?
At an authentic event, how would I stay dry when it rains or stay warm when its cold?
What type of songs should I be singing around the campfire and in camp?
What does it mean when a company is ordered to 'sleep on arms', and when would it have occured?
When in the field, what is the best & most authentic way to clean my weapon?
??? - Is there a period remedy to prevent: mosquito & chigger bites? chafe? heat stroke? blistered feet?
Should one's feet be compromised for Authenticity?
Test Mirror
FAQ mirror test



What is the Campaigner's Manifesto?
Nicky Hughes wrote out what most of us believe to be the most concise description of authentic living historians. It speaks to our motivations and our commitment to accuracy.

You can read the Campaigner's Manifesto by visiting Scott McKay's excellent Co. G, 10th Texas website.




What qualifies as an EBUFU Event?
An EBUFU event is an event that's designated as an Event Buy Us and For Us (authentics.) An entire alternative event circuit is being established for authentic reenactors consisting of EBUFU events. Here's a description of what we consider to be an EBUFU or alternative event:

Alternative Event Guidelines
This is a set of general selection guidelines in the form of questions to better analyze prospective Alternative Circuit Events for inclusion in this schedule.

1) Event Portrayal: Is the event portrayal in a documented historical setting? What "slice of life," or "vignette" in terms of the historic event scenario occurring on the given date, will we portray? How deeply will the firper be researched?

2) Authenticity: Will there be guidelines and standards published well in advance? Will the material, physical, social, and political (period) culture of the unit impression be appropriate?

3) Communication: Will there be a listserver? A website? Printed and mailed packets of materials? Will registration be individual or group?

4) Logistics: How are the logistics to be handled? If it's a march, what has to be lined up in terms of landowner permission, cooperation of authorities, and a chase vehicle? Will there be special accomodations for people flying to the event. How will safety be handled? Will there be a logistics and admin support cell for this event?

5) Location: Where is it physically going to be held in terms of geography and location? Is it on original ground? Will it trace or parallel original march routes? How much actual campaign movement is in this event?

6) Participation: Who will participate? What type of event will it be? Will civilians be actively encouraged to have meaningful roles and interaction?

7) Organization: Will the leadership selected be able to plan, organize, resource, and execute the event both on and off the field? Leadership i.e. who can execute? Who has the vision? Can and will this vision be instilled in the participants?

8 ) Preservation: Is the money going in part, in whole (net), or not at all to preservation? If so, where and how much? Who benefits? Will the accounting be made public after the event?

9) Freshness: Has this been done before? If so, has it been beat to death? Is this impression and event covering new ground? How does this event push the envelope?

10) Camp life: Letters from home? Packages? Ration Issues? Equipment issues? Contests? Entertainment? Activities? Drill? Pickets? Guard Mount?

11) Educational Opportunities: Will it be at a deserving NPS/State/Local/Private historical site where people are there looking for CW history? Are we educating ourselves through an immersive experience? Is this an event where people are there to gawk and be entertained?

12) Attitudes: What kind of personality clashes might arise during the course of this event? Could they ruin the event? What is the mindset of those considering attendence? What do they say, what is their personality and attitude like when the event is discussed?

Charles Heath
Heath9999@aol.com


How do I get invited to an invitation-only event?
The key to getting an invitation is networking. You need to make contact early and be willing to answer questions about your uniform and accoutrements.

Sometimes folks will ask for a list of where you buy your gear. Othertimes they'll want to see a list of groups you've fallen in with and/or events that you've attend which are acknowledged as authentic.

Be willing to make changes to your gear as prompted by the event coordinators. Once you do get an invite, get your registration fees in early and make sure you get up to speed before the event by studying any materials they send you.

When event-day comes, show up with your game face on, ready to immerse.

Paul Calloway
pcalloway@skyenet.net


Are there inexpensive ways to improve my impression?
Read Cal Kinzer's article entitled A Dozen Inexpensive Ways to improve your impression.

Also, read Fine Tuning your Impression by Bob Denton.

These articles and more can be found featured in the articles section of the Authentic Campaigner Website.


Why should military reenactors give equal attention to civilian research as they do their own?
The boys of 61 did not spring forth out of the earth at the call of their country's call to arms; no they lived for years before the war as citizens. There is no way you can portray a soldier of the 19th Century without also portraying a citizen of the 19th century. Authentic reenactors should be devoting time to the study of the society and material culture. There are many aspects of civilian life that should to be considered in order to make your first person impression believable.

Can you discuss the quality of the local forage (common-knowledge information to a pre-war farmer?) Development of an impression of a soldier's whole life should be the focus, not just the military events. Another aspect often missed is that throughout the war, soldiers constantly interacted and depended upon the civilian communities that they traveled.

Such study gives one the chance to indulge your other interests. A passion for cars translates to the study of wagons and buggies. Almost any present day interest can be translated an aspect of the 19th Century.

Boyd Miles
boydmiles@aol.com



At what point does a recruit lose his 'fresh fish' status?
It really differs for the person. Some men never lose 'fresh fish' status because they let everyone else do the work and just show up from time to time.

Others soak up anything and everything that is said or demonstrated, and are willing to go out and find answers for themselves. These folks lose their 'fresh fish' status almost immediately.


Was there a written set of rules that the Civil War soldiers had to abide by?
Yes, just like the 'Uniformed Code of Military Justice' in today's military, the armies on both sides of the Civil War adhered to a set of rules that had been adopted by the United States Congress in 1806.

The rules of both were identical, save the substitution of 'Confederate States' for 'United States' in the latter version. The name of these prescribed set of rules was the Articles of War.


What is the difference between Scott's/Gilham's/Hardee's/Hardee's Revised drill manuals?
Before the War of 1812, the only official guide for both infantry tactics and military administration in the U.S. Army was Baron von Steuben’s “Blue Book,” composed in 1777. Since von Steuben’s manual was based on the tactics of the Prussian armies of Frederick the Great, by the early 1800s many American officers argued that military developments during the Napoleonic wars made the “Blue Book” obsolete as a tactical handbook. The American military build-up during the War of 1812 renewed interest in this problem.

In March 1812, the War Department adopted a manual on infantry tactics written by Colonel Alexander Smyth, which condensed and adapted the French regulations of 1791, which was the basic infantry system of the Napoleonic armies. One year later, Smyth’s work was replaced by another version of the same French system by Colonel William Duane, a Pennsylvania journalist turned soldier. Neither Smyth nor Duane had a high reputation within the army for knowing what they were writing about, and many field commanders resisted using their manuals. Some officers continued to rely on von Steuben’s drill, others dutifully followed either Smyth or Duane, and not a few devised and implemented drill systems of their own.

Scott’s Infantry Tactics (1835)
In a late move to end the confusion caused by the proliferation of drill styles, the War Department established a board of experienced field officers in December 1814, headed by Winfield Scott, to produce yet another translation of the French infantry tactics of that time. Completed early in 1815, and revised under Scott’s direction in 1824 and in 1835, Scott’s Infantry Tactics remained the U.S. Army’s fundamental infantry system well into the 1850s, and was the infantry manual in use during the 40-year period following the War of 1812, including the various Indian wars, filibustering expeditions, and the War with Mexico.

Based on the flintlock smoothbored musket, several distinctive features of Scott’s drill include the use of the “lockstep,” and carrying the musket in the left hand, thus a soldier has to “cast about” his weapon in moving it from the left side of the body to the “ready” position before aiming and firing. At the “ready” position, the weapon is held vertically in front of the body, with the lock toward the front, before bringing it to the soldier to the position of “aim.” Loading the flintlock required 12 steps.

Maneuvers in line of battle were performed at the common time (90 steps per minute) using what was called the “lockstep”… e.g. a flat-footed step where the man in the rear ranks was virtually stepping in the footprints immediately behind his file partner. There was no ready provision for marching by the flanks, instead the battalion shifts to a road marching formation by wheeling into columns of platoons. Changing from one formation to another required the line to halt. If Company strengths were greater than 70 men, the companies and battalion could be formed into a line three ranks deep to deliver massed volleys.

The three volumes of Scott’s, School of the Soldier, School of the Battalion, and Evolutions of the Line, are available on-line at Leonard site, Jones’ Drill Network site.

Hardee’s Rifle and Light Infantry Tactics 1861
Advances in infantry tactics and weaponry in the early 1850s led the Army to update its doctrine to take into account the new advantages offered by percussion ignition weapons and the newfangled M1841 and M1855 2-bander rifles. Lt. Col. William J. Hardee wrote a new manual focused primarily on light, rifle-armed infantry that became the Army’s new standard. Hardee's new manual was a translation and adaptation of the ‘scientific’ innovations of the elite French chasseurs à pied (light infantry), who were proponents of ‘gymnastic’ maneuver, skirmish order, long range aimed fire from rifles and the decisive use of the bayonet. Significantly, Hardee’s Tactics was recognition of the importance of light infantry tactics in an army that did not have specific light or heavy infantry units, while retaining the line infantry evolutions.

The most important improvements in Hardee’s new manual, which took into account the long-range capabilities of the rifle, were an increased tempo where quick time (110 steps per minute) was the norm, and double quick time (165 steps per minute) was common, along with simplified instructions to deploy a column into line at the double quick, without first halting. “Doubling” was introduced to allow a line of battle to move quickly and simply by the flank, from two ranks into columns of four. The rifle was now carried in the right hand, somewhat simplifying the manual of arms. (Interestingly enough, while the new Hardee’s tactics became the standard form of infantry evolutions, the Army Regulations still referred to Scott’s old School of the Soldier as the basis for most of the parade and ceremonial evolutions of soldiers under arms.)

Hardee’s 1855 Rifle and Light Infantry Tactics is the version of “Hardee’s” which is most commonly sold at the sutlers as a pocket-sized pamphlet or the full manual. A copy is available on-line at http://www.public.asu.edu/~roblewis/ACW/hardeetoc.htmhttp://www.public.asu.edu/~roblewis/ACW/hardeetoc.htma>.William%20Gilham’s%20Manual%20for%20the%20Instruction%20of%20Volunteers %20and%20Militia%20(1860)While%20Hardee’s%20new%201855%20manual%20became%20 the%20doctrine%20of%20the%20Regular%20Army,%20most %20of%20the%20State%20volunteers%20were%20still%20 equipped%20with%20the%20old%20.69%20caliber%20musk ets.%20%20Militia%20drill%20often%20resembled%20a% 20circus%20act%20more%20than%20a%20military%20mane uver.%20%20%20In%20the%20aftermath%20of%20mobilizi ng%20the%20Virginia%20state%20troops%20in%20respon se%20to%20John%20Brown’s%20October%201858%20raid%2 0on%20Harper’s%20Ferry%20and%20Brown’s%20execution %20shortly%20thereafter,%20it%20became%20clear%20t o%20Governor%20Wise%20of%20Virginia%20that%20the%2 0proliferation%20of%20assorted%20drill%20systems%2 0within%20the%20Virginia%20state%20troops%20was%20 out%20of%20hand.%20%20Wise%20then%20directed%20Maj or%20William%20Gilham,%20the%20infantry%20tactics% 20instructor%20at%20the%20Virginia%20Military%20In stitute,%20to%20come%20up%20with%20a%20standard%20 drill%20manual%20for%20all%20Virginia%20troops.%20 %20The%20result%20was%20the%20Manual%20for%20the%2 0Instructions%20of%20Volunteers%20and%20Militia,%2 0which%20became%20a%20popular%20reference%20among% 20volunteer%20officers.%20%20%20In%20setting%20up% 20his%20system,%20Gilham%20used%20a%20mixture%20of %20Hardee%20and%20Scott’s%20for%20his%20School%20o f%20the%20Soldier.%20%20Part%201%20(soldier%20with out%20arms)%20is%20largely%20taken%20from%20Hardee ’s%201855%20School%20of%20the%20Soldier,%20but%20S cott’s%20manual%20of%20arms%20is%20used%20for%20th e%20smoothbore%20musket%20(Virginia’s%20militia%20 was%20mostly%20equipped%20with%20the%20old%20.69%2 0caliber%20smoothbores),%20with%20Hardee’s%20Schoo ls%20of%20the%20Soldier%20for%20troops%20armed%20w ith%20the%202-bander%20rifles.%20%20Gilham%20used%20Hardee’s%20i nstructions%20for%20both%20the%20School%20of%20the %20Company%20and%20School%20of%20the%20Battalion%2 0nearly%20verbatim.%20%20Gilham%20tried%20to%20make%20his%20manual%20a%20co mprehensive%20handbooks%20for%20the%20volunteer%20 officer,%20incorporating%20not%20only%20infantry%2 0drill%20but%20also%20that%20for%20cavalry%20and%2 0artillery,%20as%20well%20as%20the%20provisions%20 from%20the%20Army%20regulations%20for%20parades,%2 0reviews,%20guard%20mount,%20picket%20duty,%20and% 20general%20military%20administration.%20%20For%20 a%20one-source%20reference%20to%20how%20a%20military%20uni t%20functioned%20in%20the%20early%201860s,%20Gilha m’s%20manual%20is%20a%20good%20source,%20and%20wou ldn’t%20really%20be%20matched%20in%20this%20regard %20until%20August%20V.%20Kautz%20published%20his%2 0handbook,%20Customs%20of%20Service%20for%20Officers%20of%20the %20Army,%20in%201866.Selected%20parts%20of%20Gilham’s%20School%20of%20t he%20Soldier%20and%20School%20of%20the%20Company%2 0are%20available%20on%20line%20at%20http://www.geocities.com/pvtbuck2.%20%20%20Printed%20versions%20are%20avail able%20from%20Sh@mrock%20Hill%20books%20(
Hardee's Rifle and Infantry Tactics (1862)
In the secession crisis of late 1860 and 1861, Lt. Col. William J. Hardee cast his lot with his native state of Georgia, and resigned to enter the Confederate service. In July 1861 he found himself in northeastern Arkansas drilling volunteer soldiers armed almost exclusively with 3-band, .69 caliber smoothbore muskets, most of them flintlocks. Throughout the Confederacy, the fledgling volunteer companies found themselves with 42-inch barrel muskets or 40-inch barrel rifle-muskets, both having socket bayonets. Not only did Hardee's "Tactics" produce difficulty for militia units trying to learn the new evolutions, his manual of arms proved awkward, and even sometimes impractical for the longer muskets (e.g., in fixing bayonets and stacking arms). This manual of arms was essentially the same as the old Sergeants' Manual in Scott's, but without Scott's primary manual for 3-banders.

As Dom dal Bello described it a few years ago in the 'Camp Chase Gazette':

“While in Mobile in the spring of 1861, Hardee entered into partnership with Mobile publisher S.H. Goetzel & Co. to produce an edition of his "Tactics" that included a revised manual of arms for the 3-band weapons commonly found in the Confederate army. Goetzel advertised this edition as "Hardee's Correct, Complete, Perfect, and Revised and Improved Infantry and Rifle Tactics." Note that the adjective "Light" has been removed from "Infantry," making this manual applicable to all infantry, no matter how armed or organized. Hardee himself was quoted as calling this edition the "only COMPLETE, CORRECT and REVISED EDITION".

Hardee meant this manual to replace his 1855 edition, for use throughout the Confederate army by troops armed with 3-band muskets and rifle-muskets. The changes actually were slight. The same basic shoulder movements were retained, as well as the "light infantry" concepts of skirmishers, double quick time, etc. However, those parts of his 1855 manual of arms that had been written specifically for the 2-bander were adjusted to suit the 3-bander. The main differences lie in the position of the musket during loading, fixing and unfixing the bayonet, and stacking arms. Each of these movements was revised to take into account the greater length of the musket and rifle-musket over the rifle, and the socket bayonet in lieu of the rifle's sword bayonet.”

Hardee’s new manual was published in several versions, most notably the “Goetzel edition” cited above, which also became known as the “North Carolina drill manual." While there were also a wide variety of unauthorized reprints of Hardee’s text, the Goetzel edition appears to have been the one most commonly used in Confederate service. (Note: the “only Complete, Correct, and Revised” version still uses the old 1855 illustrative plates showing a soldier with a 2-band rifle with sword bayonet.)

Excellent discussions of the background and specific differences in the 1855 and 1861 version of Hardee’s Infantry Tactics are available on-line at http://216.247.222.222/vpp/ccg/manualarms_1.htm and http://216.247.222.222/vpp/ccg/manualarms_2.htm.

Hardee’s Infantry and Rifle Tactics (Goetzel edition) is available on-line at Leonard Jones’ Drill Network.

Tom Ezell


Whats the best book for me to read about Civil War soldiers?
You're asking the right question now think logically for yourself.

Who knows the most about what the Civil War soldier went through on a daily basis? Stephen Ambrose? Ken Burns? Your uncle Tony?

Obviously the Civil War soldier knows more about his own personal experience than anyone else. We're fortunate to have a wealth of diaries, letters, journal entries, etc. to draw from.

We suggest you visit our Primary Resources Section and immerse yourself in some diary entries and the like.


What kind of food should I be taking to authentic events, and how should I prepare/carry it?
Find out what would have been issued to your counterparts and try to avail yourselves of those same foods.

Salt Pork*, Salted Beef, Coffee, Sugar, Salt, hardtack, rice, oats, corn meal, canned foods and semi-fresh vegetables are all examples of foods that they might have had at any given time.

There are variances depending on who, when, what and where you are. Southerns did not have much coffee, but often had tea and tobacco.

Food should be kept in period containers, ie. poke bags (small drawstring bags), waxed paper, newspaper wrappings, etc. Food would have been carried in ones haversack, knapsack, blanketroll pockets. The haversack is for food though, don't make it into your knapsack.

*Salt Pork - what you find labeled salt pork on most grocers shelves is NOT akin to period salt pork. What we have today is mostly fat, used for cooking. The salt pork of the 19th century had much more meat content. We suggest finding double smoked bacon or ham, or using 'Smoked Pork Jowl' as can be found at most groceries.


What are acceptable period topics for conversation while at an immersion event?
As the scriptures state, there is nothing new under the sun. The same things that we talk about today, they would have talked about then:

Examples:
- Politics: "That Henry Seward is a lying, cheating scruff."
- Current Events: I guess it'll be time at home to bring in the wheat" or "Did you see the latest Sunday Mercury?"
- Music: "Steven Foster has a new piece of music out."
- Family: "I got a letter yesterday and Father writes that...."
- Camp Controversy: "Did you hear what the Sutler set his prices to on cheese?" or "Word is that so-and-so is going to put his name in for Corporal when we vote."
- The War: "Word down on Co. B's street is that we'll be moving within the week."

Avoid the obvious, if a plane flies over, dont say "Well what is that?" Ignore it. Read a few diaries or some letters available in our primary resources section and you wont be left short of things to talk about.


How do/can I develop a believable first-person impression?
Read. Read. Read. Nothing gets you into the heads of those you try to portray as much as reading their newspapers, journals, diaries, letters home, popular works of fiction, classical literature etc.

Just knowing what they knew seems to help a great deal.

The other major contributing factor is practice. The more you do of it, the better you are.


At an authentic event, how would I stay dry when it rains or stay warm when its cold?
A gum blanket is a soldiers best friend. It'll help you keep dry when its wet and help you keep warm when its cold. Shelter tents did not afford much protection then, nor do they today.

Another important thing is to be willing to share your blankets, gum blankets, tent halves and the like with your mess mates. Get into a spoon line if you want to stay warm and dont be shy. Our forebears slept in sub-zero temperatures with little more than a blanket and a spoonline, and did alright.

Take advantage of natural cover if there is any afforded. If a tree, rock, bush, porch is near - use it.


What type of songs should I be singing around the campfire and in camp?
Military airs were popular, but even more so were the songs of such men as Stephen Foster and George Root. Additionally, Sea Chanties, Irish Ballads and Minstrel music was all very popular as were hymns of the faith such as "A Mighty Fortress, On Jordan's Stormy Banks I stand, Rock of Ages, etc."

The most important thing is to distinguish which songs were actually around during the war years. Singing "Beautiful Dreamer" by Stephen Foster at 1st Manassas would be incorrect as the Stephen Foster favorite didnt appear in the camps until 1865.




What does it mean when a company is ordered to 'sleep on arms', and when would it have occured?
Soldiers were ordered to 'Sleep on Arms' when their command faced an impending engagement with the enemy, and their officers wanted them to be thrown into the fray at a moment's notice. When given that order, the men would lay down in line of battle, with their accoutrements till on, and thier rilfles placed snug and resting under thier right arm. The men were usually placed in line of battle just prior to having been given this order.


When in the field, what is the best & most authentic way to clean my weapon?
Preferably, hot water boiled in a cup does a more than adequate job of washing black powder out of a barrel, but if the residue is fresh, regular water will do. Using a patch of cloth you can then scrub your barrel as needed and then repeat with the water treatment until clean.

For removing rust, nothing works better than a bit of ash out of the fire pit.

After the barrel has been wiped dry, it should be swabbed with a cotton patch that has been lightly soaked with sweet oil.


??? - Is there a period remedy to prevent: mosquito & chigger bites? chafe? heat stroke? blistered feet?



Should one's feet be compromised for Authenticity?
Just take care of business. If you've got legitimate issues that need to be addressed, like bad feet, bad back.. whatever...do what you gotta do and keep it out sight... and by all means dont tell everybody about it.

Nobody I know is going to make you take your shoes off and going to dig in 'em to see whats down there. Of course sooner or later you're going to have to take those shoes off so make sure whatever you got in there isn't bright pink with sequins.

I goofed my feet up in 1987 when I ran a marathon in my favorite running shoes. It was one of those things though where the shoes were 'too' favored and were actually on the verge of breaking down. They broke down about mile 17 and all the metacarpals in my feet dropped out of place.

I finished the marathon but a week later I was still hurting so went to see a chiropractor and he put my feet back in place.

My feet get real sore now, I usually wear 2 pair of Mickey Black socks and a real comfortable, well-made shoe. I usually give my feet a good thorough massage before I hit the spoon-line. It works for me and I feel better about it.

Paul Calloway
pcalloway@skyenet.net

[Tom Ezell]

Old FAQ - Getting into the Gear

How much does it cost to get outfitted in the basic gear?
Why shouldn't I just buy my gear from sutler row, and what constitutes an item to be authentic?
What determines the authenticity of a piece of reproduction gear?
To become authentic, is it really important to get stuff that can't be seen? Like period drawers?
Why are the 'who makes the best...' type questions discouraged on this forum?
What peice of gear should I buy first?
What's the difference between the materials jean, cassimere, broadcloth, kersey, etc.?
How long of a wait time should be expected when placing an authentic gear order?
Are there things I can be doing, while I am waiting for my gear order to arrive?
How would I research the equipment originally issued to a specific regiment?
What was the Confederate Commutation System?
What was the Depot System and how did it work?
How do I handsew a buttonhole?
How do I sew a hand-fell seam?
What type of thread should be chosen for authentic sewing?
Did they wear light colored hats?
Were Federal Sack Coats all dark blue?
??? - How do I determine if a hat or cap is authentic, and is there a right way to wear it?
How do I seal a leaky canteen?
What color of canteen cover is correct?
Should I buy a wooden lantern, like the ones I see at reenactments?
Should I leave the bluing on my brand new Enfield?
Is the speckleware cookery seen at reenactments authentic?
How do I sew US on my issue blanket?
How do I roll a blanket-roll?
Should I wear a blanket roll or a knapsack?
Should I take my dirty/stinky uniform to the drycleaner or should I just throw it in the washer?
What should be carried in a haversack? in a knapsack?
Was there such thing as an "Emergency Issue" blanket?
??? - Is it advisable to get hobnails and/or heel plates when placing a shoe order?
What is blousing your pants and is it authentic?
Why do authentic reenactors have their shirts totally buttoned, and the mainstream reenactors don't?
Is it authentic to wear a 'railroad' type bandana around my neck, like is see worn at reenactments?
??? - What is the proper way to clean & care for my clothing, shoes & accoutrements?
What do I look for when choosing a period pocket watch?



How much does it cost to get outfitted in the basic gear?
Depends on whether you're Federal or CS:

Here's your typical Eastern Federal impression, not much difference from a Western Federal impression on an itemized list. The Westerners wear more slouch hats and wear their gear just a little different. (Western suggestions in parantheses.)

85.00 Forage Cap (or 100.00 P1858 unadorned Army Hat)
165.00 Sack Coat
100.00 Federal Issue Shirt
150.00 Trousers
100.00 Shoes
400.00 Rifle
200.00 Accoutrements
40.00 Bayonet
15.00 Socks
125.00 Blanket
50.00 Canteen (Smoothside Canteen and hemp twine to stopper)
50.00 Haversack
50.00 Messgear
50.00 Gum Blanket
--------
--------
$1500-1600

Here's your typical Eastern CS impression, note that the permutations and variations on this theme can be as varied as the day is long:

200.00 Richmond Depot Jacket (Columbus Jacket)
100.00 Civilian pattern Shirt
200.00 ANV Pattern Trousers (AoTT pattern trousers)
100.00 Shoes
400.00 Rifle
200.00 Accoutrements
40.00 Bayonet
15.00 Socks
100.00 Blanket
100.00 Canteen
50.00 Haversack
50.00 Messgear
50.00 Ground Cloth
--------
--------
@$1650-1700

Note that neither one of these includes any tentage. Which is just fine as we do much on campaign and the documentation is rich and lengthy about our forbears not having tents. Some of the odds and ends can come later, like great coats, frock coats, tentage, officer gear, etc.


Why shouldn't I just buy my gear from sutler row, and what constitutes an item to be authentic?
Sutler Row at your typical reenactment is perhaps the worst place to find things for your authentic impression. The sutlers who generally set up are selling low quality, high profit items as quick as they can - they are in business to make money, not supply authentic goods.

You need to visit the Resources page of this website and look through the 'approved vendor list. This is a list of folks who are reproducing items based upon close inspection of extant authentic Civil War items. They generally have authentic Civil War items in their own collections and/or have spent numerous hours in museums or in private collections reviewing the same articles our forefathers actually used and wore. They are using period patterns and using materials that closely or exactly match what our forbears used.

DISCLAIMER: Note that we suggest which items in particular are authentic for that vendor - we urge you not to stray outside of what we suggest for a particular vendor as they may have things which are not-necessarily authentic for their 'mainstream' customers. Make sure you know what you want and who to beware of.

Get used to ordering by mail as this is virtually the only way to get authentic goods. There's a couple stores around Gettysburg that have some decent things such as Spiros Marinos' shop right behind the angle. Outside of that though, call the folks on the Resources list.


What determines the authenticity of a piece of reproduction gear?
Originals usually determine the authenticity of a piece of reproduction gear. AS an example, please see Chris Daley's Uniform Notes page.

You'll note that Chris has extensively researched the garments he is reproducing. Thats a good sign that Chris know's what he's doing and would be a preferred choice when purchasing your equipment.

There are others who provide solid research to backup their production: Nick ************, Charlie Childs, Butch Myers, Pat Brown, etc are all good examples of guys who do their homework.


To become authentic, is it really important to get stuff that can't be seen? Like period drawers?
The object is to have as complete an impression as possible. So if your hat falls off in the wind, there's a period liner inside. If you pull your hands out of your pockets, only period items come out with them. Period drawers too.

It'll make you feel like you've got a more complete impression and therefore you'll have a more complete impression.


Why are the 'who makes the best...' type questions discouraged on this forum?
We have an extensive resources list available for you. Instead of asking on the forum, who makes the best sack coats, go look on the resources page and see who we recommend.

We tire of answering the same questions over and over. Availing yourself of our search function on the forum is also appreciated. Do a little research of the information we provide you and then your questions will be much more welcomed.


What peice of gear should I buy first?
Please read the following article before you start purchasing items for your impression: For the Beginning Reenactor, Before You Buy a Thing! by Paul Calloway


What's the difference between the materials jean, cassimere, broadcloth, kersey, etc.?
Chris Daley has written a very detailed answer to this question in the form of a Glossary of cloth and fabric. Visit the Fabric FAQ here.

Covered Terms:
acetate, blend, broadcloth cotton, burlap, calico, cambric, canton flannel, canvas, cashmere, cassimere, chintz cotton, cloth, cloth yard, Corduroy, cotton, crêpe, denim, dimity plain, domett flannel, drill, duck generally, elastic, face, felt, flannel Soft, filling (see weft), Flax, Gabardine, Grosgrain, Hemp, Herringbone, Homespun, Jeans, jute and burlap, kersey, kerseymere, knit fabrics, lamb's wool, linen, linsey-woolsey, mackinaw wool, melton, mohair, moleskin, muslin, nankeen, nylon, oilcloth, Osnaburg, Pill, plain weave, Plush, Poplin,
rayon (viscose), sailcloth, sateen, satin, satin weave, satinet, selvage or selvedge, silk, thread, thread count, ticking, tiking, tricot, tricotine, twill, twill weave, velvet, velvet satin, velveteen, warp, weaving, weft or filling, wool, worsted, yarn.



How long of a wait time should be expected when placing an authentic gear order?
It depends on the time of the year and other such similar factors but it's always good to try to order a season in advance. Thats hard to imagine if you're coming from the mainstream hobby, but it's good to plan in advance and prioritize your spending. Find out who is producing items and their time frames.

Chris Daley, Matt Caldwell, Don Smith and others can get you your gear within 30-90 days generally. Joe Hoffman of the Skillet Licker can usually do it immediately but you pay a higher price for the service.

The three must haves are 1) Hat 2) Sack Coat 3) Blanket... focus on getting those first... and if you havent reenacted before, add to that list quality shoes.


Are there things I can be doing, while I am waiting for my gear order to arrive?
Yes. Read. Get some drill manuals, published Civil War diaries, etc. and use them as textbooks. Visiting the Authentic Campaigner and reading the articles and discussion forums can also be very helpful.


How would I research the equipment originally issued to a specific regiment?
Pulling the CSRs (Consolidated Service Records) of the quartermaster for that unit at the National Archives can also show a lot of information. A lot of the paperwork that that officer was involved with, including regimental issuances, CAN be in those records.

Joe Loehle
jloehle@earthlink.net


What was the Confederate Commutation System?
The Confederate States of America faced some unique challenges at the outset of war in 1861. They did not have a standing army, nor did they have the infrastructure to feed, clothe, equip and otherwise manage an army.

The Confederacy adopted a "commutation system" to uniform its troops until December 1862. This is not to be confused with the commutation system employed by both governments to draft troops - that is an entirely separate issue.

With the commutation system, state governments and in some cases the individual soldiers were asked to supply their own clothing/uniforms. By supplying their own clothing, the states were to be paid at a set rate by the CS government.

Needless to say, this system wasn't particularly efficient. Many Confederate soldiers, and particularly in but not exclusive to the West (TN, AL, MS, LA, TX, etc.), went without many times and were clothed in a somewhat ragged manner as a result.

There were exceptions to the rule of course. Georgia and North Carolina in particular were well disposed to supplying their troops with uniforms and had little trouble in doing so throughout the war.

The system continued until the end of 1862, when the CSA's government quartermaster officially took over the manufacture and distribution of uniforms. The various depots were by then manufacturing at a capacity that he believed would be able to supply the armies of the Confederacy.

However, it would be at least mid-1863 before the commutation system would be effectively phased out.

For more information on the Confederate Commutation system, I refer you to the articles on the Lazy Jacks Website regarding Trans-Mississippi Confederate uniforms.

Paul Calloway
The Authentic Campaigner Website.

Footnotes:
Christopher White, "The New Richmond Depot Catalog A1-Winter 1997", p. 7-8.
Field, Ron, "American Civil War Confederate Army". 1996. London: Brasseys.'


What was the Depot System and how did it work?
A clothing depot in the Civil War is much like a train depot today. It was a gather place. Trains all converge at a central location to pick up passangers, then get set off in different directions again.

The clothing depots were just central locations consisting of one or more buildings that contractors would ship their finished garments to and the QM would pack and ship them to the armies at the front.

Some depots not only collected and re-distributed clothing, but also cut kits out for 'war widows' to sew and also produced garments. The depots (and arsenals) like the Schuylkill Arsenal, The New York Depot, The Columbus (Georgia) Depot and the Richmond Clothing Department were (in theory) centrally located to best outfit the armies.

Christopher J. Daley
christopher.daley@myactv.net

http://www.erols.com/chrisdaley

How do I handsew a buttonhole?
Check out Chris Sullivan's excellent article on how to handsew buttonholes entitled Instructions for Hand sewing buttonholes which is located on the Rockport Mess website.


How do I sew a hand-fell seam?
Chris Sullivan of the Stony Brook Company has published an article Instruction on hand-felling Seams which is hosted on the Rockport Mess website.


What type of thread should be chosen for authentic sewing?
This will depend on the project you undertake and what is available on the market today. Some garments will require you to use a variety of sizes and colors. In a single garment you may use 4 different size threads. One for the inside seams, one for topstitching, another for buttonholes and a fourth for buttonhole cording (all four mentioned increase in size as they are listed.) Buttonhole thread should be #16 or thicker, to stitching thread should be #24 thread or thicker. You may also choose to use different colors as per the project. Some tailors in the 19th Century matched thread color to match the part of the garment (i.e. white thread to set the sleeves and waistbands, but a darker color for the garment itself.) The size of your thread will basically depend on the fabric you choose. Don't use a thick thread on cotton muslin or a thin thread on a heavy woolen.

The second part of the problem is that the tailor today is limited in the choice of thread we can use on a reproduction 19th century garments. Your project may call for cotton, silk or linen thread. There is a wide variety of cotton and silk threads on the market today. While there is a great trend the hobby now to use logwood dyed linen thread, there is no evidence that all the thread used on CW garments was logwood dyed and the thread on the market today is not spun properly for hand or machine sewing. In short, take hard look at each project and choose your thread per that project.

Christopher J. Daley
christopher.daley@myactv.net

http://www.erols.com/chrisdaley

Did they wear light colored hats?
Vegetable based dyes being vegetable based dyes, I would expect that a gray hat would be as likely to oxidize to a tan color as a jacket or trousers. And just like with jackets, which hats started life as tan hats and which ones are gray that turned tan?

Clearly, gray hats were around and would certainly be seen in the ranks.

John Stillwagon

In "Berry Benson's Civil War Book" p.28-29, Benson describes the fighting in which he took part at the battle of Sharpsburg.

"Bullets whistled around me thick, for I must have been a Conspicuous target. A bullet struck me on the right side of the head, leaving a black mark on my gray felt hat."

This is only one example, but I figured you might be looking for some specific primary source example.

Rob Hallock
reh3y@virginia.edu


Were Federal Sack Coats all dark blue?
Note the distinctly different shades of blue in these six extant coats and varying colors of the liners. This picture was taken using coats from from the Smithsonian by Paul McKee of the Mudsills..

Click for an image of 6 Original Sack Coats.

I took the liberty to number the coats for convenient reference. John Wedeward of the 33rd Wisconsin has detailed documentation on each of these six coats (3 pages each.) If you would like to see those notes, please send John an email and mention this page. Use the numbers above to reference individual coats. Corrections, deletions and additions to this text should be sent to Paul Calloway.


??? - How do I determine if a hat or cap is authentic, and is there a right way to wear it?



How do I seal a leaky canteen?
As I see it you have two ways, and sealing the leak with wax from the inside is NOT one of them (to me that's a temporary fix that will probably re-leak soon).
Try these:

1. For the authenticity minded reenactor, have the quartermaster (your wife) condemn the old canteen and get a new one from the quartermaster (i.e. a vendor of repros). Take the opportunity to upgrade your canteen if necessary.

2. If you are on the "plan of economy", remove all or part of the cover (if it's not a jeancloth cover, now's a great opportunity to replace a kersey cover with jean--yes, this is for Federals) and SOLDER the leak with lead-free solder. I did this with one of my current canteens; worked well and has been leak free for the past six years.

Kevin O'Beirne
columbiarifles@aol.com
The Columbia Rifles


______________________________________


I have found the wax method to be effective, one canteen going on 15 years or more and it doesn't leak.
(but do you really want to fix it? A soldier would have lived with the problem untill he was able to replace the canteen, your leaky canteen is a chance for some good first person. In a strict sense you shouldn't repair your canteen but as you are paying for it rather than the government providing one for you you may want to extend the life of your canteen by doing so.)

Wax Method (good for uncovered tin canteens)
1. Clean the inside of the canteen, has to have all surfaces smooth, clean and dry. You may need to use a bit of clean dry sand shaken around for a bit (make sure it is gone by step 2)
2. Melt about an ounce of beeswax while heating the canteen in your oven, don't over bake your canteen, it should be no hotter than you can stand to hold.
3. Pour wax into the hot canteen and keep it moving to distribute the wax.
4. pour out the wax, if none pours out you didn't have your canteen hot enough and the wax may not be well distributed. (one oz can do three canteens if you do it right)
5. You now have a leakfree canteen that will smell like honey forever. It is also going to have incorrect rustfree water.

Wooden Canteens
1. Keep water in the canteen. That is it for these, they leak when they work and won't hold water at all if you don't keep them wet. If your canteen has dried out and fallen apart, reassemble the best you can and sink the canteen under water with a weight untill it swells enough to hold together. Keep water in it. You may want to add some bleach to your water (not to drink) to kill what is growing in there, rinse well before use. Fill it up at home, mop out your car and fill it back up when you arrive at the event. Fill it before you go to bed and when you get up,often during the day. (OK it might not be that bad but they do seep water by their nature)

Stainless Steel Canteen Leaking at Seam
1. Throw it away and don't ever admit you bought it

Boyd Miles
boydmiles@aol.com


What color of canteen cover is correct?
Chris Sullivan's article about Canteen Covers addresses this subject directly. We suggest you read it thoroughly.


Should I buy a wooden lantern, like the ones I see at reenactments?
Not unless you need one for your living room decor. Get the items you need for your impression and stay away from the impedimentia of mainstream reenacting.

A candle works just as well as a wooden lantern and fits a whole lot better in your knapsack when not in use.


Should I leave the bluing on my brand new Enfield?
Read Geoff Walden's article, ’The Enfield in the Civil War’ for that question and many others pertaining to this weapon.




Is the speckleware cookery seen at reenactments authentic?
The very first issue of "The Watchdog" has a small article on enamelware. I think you can still purchase back copies of it. Here is a quote from that article:
"As for military usage, no enamelware cups or plates with Civil War military associations are known in reputable museum collections, and none are known by the author to have been excavated and properly documented from any archaeological site from the Civil War."

Brent Forney

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

From "The Columbia Rifles Research Compendium", in the article entitled, "THE CAMPAIGNER’S INSTRUMENTS OF CULINARY ART: Mess Furniture of the Federal Civil War Soldier":

Despite its widespread use by reenactors, porcelain enamelware, also known as speckle ware, splatter ware, glazed ware, granite ware, granite steel ware, and agate ware is entirely incorrect for both military and civilian impressions of the Civil War era.

What exactly is enamelware?

“Porcelain enamelling is the process of fusing a thin layer of glass to a metal object to prevent corrosion and enhance its beauty. The base item is low carbon sheet iron formed in the shape of a utensil…Handles, spouts, and ears are welded or riveted in place. The base item is cleaned by pickling [it] in acid. A coating mixture of ground glass, clay, and water is applied and dried. The ware is then fired in a furnace.” [New Encyclopedia Britannica, 1991, cited in Bledsoe, Sharon, “Porcelain Enamelware: Should We Use It?” published in "Camp Chase Gazette"]

Types of enamelware include cups, plates, pots, pans, flatware, and other cooking gear. The most common enamelware colors seen at reenactments are gray and bright blue.

Enamelling was first patented in England in 1779, and for more than ninety years afterward inventors in both England and the United States worked to refine the process, which remained more-or-less experimental until the 1870s. Enamelware was first advertised for sale in the United States in 1874, but was not popularly introduced to the public until the Philadelphia Centennial Exposition in 1876—a full eleven years after the conclusion of the Civil War. Only in the 1880s was the process of enamelling further refined to lend bright colors, such as blue, red, and speckling, to cookware. Enamelware quickly caught on and remained extremely popular well into the Twentieth Century. Unfortunately, it is also quite popular with Civil War reenactors of the Twenty-first Century. [sources: Bledsoe, Sharon, “Porcelain Enamelware: Should We Use It?”; Hughes, Nicky, “And While We’re on the Subject of Dinnerware…” published in "The Watchdog"]

Because its widespread manufacture and use postdates the Civil War, enamelware is entirely unsuitable for a Civil War impression. One reference concludes, “Excavation of military sites and military collections show no evidence of Porcelain enamelware being used by the military of either army [in the Civil War].” [source: Bledsoe, Sharon, “Porcelain Enamelware: Should We Use It?”]

Kevin O'Beirne
columbiarifles@aol.com
The Columbia Rifles
Columbia Rifles


How do I sew US on my issue blanket?
"U"
4 1/2" Tall
4" Wide
Lines are about 1/2" apart.
Stitches are 3/8" to 1/2" long, with approximately the same distance between stitches.

"S"
4 1/2" Tall
3 1/2" Wide
Stitches - same as on the "U"

Distance between "U" and "S" - 1 1/2"

Obviously, this is not the ONLY method. I will send the scanned letters to anyone who wants a copy.

Additional note - 09/03/01: My stencil and stitching is very similar to the Royer blanket on page 214 of EOG - Union.

Jack Cox
aka "Bullseye Jack"
Olathe Union Guard



How do I roll a blanket-roll?
We encourage you to read Wayne Thompson's Article entitled A Civil War Roll for a step by step descripton of blanket-rolling.


Should I wear a blanket roll or a knapsack?
Depends on the event. Read your event prospectus and find out what the uniform regulations are for any particular event. If they call for blanket-rolls, wear one. If they call for knapsacks, try to bring one of those with your blanket neatly folded between the bags.


Should I take my dirty/stinky uniform to the drycleaner or should I just throw it in the washer?
Just say no to the dry cleaner. He'll clean and PRESS your uniform regardless of what you tell him to do. If you show up to an authentic event with creases in your uniform, you're gonna get laughed at like you wouldn't believe - and perhaps deservedly so.

Your best bet is to handwash your uniform in cold water and then let it air dry. Wash it in your bathtub and hang it from your shower rod if you're in an apartment.


What should be carried in a haversack? in a knapsack?
A haversack is used for food and mess gear only. When you see a sutler advertising 'haversack stuffers' if it's not food or mess gear, you should be VERY wary of them.

A knapsack is used for storing your tent-half, blanket, spare shirt, drawers socks, writing utensils, books, etc. From time to time, if you have an extensive amount of rations and your haversack is about to burst, this is wear you would put the excess crackers, etc.


Was there such thing as an "Emergency Issue" blanket?
Let's try to get past the term, "emergency issue" when we talk about blankets. That term was created by sutlers, not historians and were proported to be blankets made in early days of the war when "regulation" blankets were in short supply. Current scholarship has shown that blankets that conform to the appearance of the so-called "emergency" type were issued throughout the war and in all major theaters of operations.

The more correct term, and the term used by authentic vendors/makers, is "contract." As a matter of fact, according to Fred Gaede, all Federal issue blankets are "contract" because the government never made blankets at one of its arsenals.

The Abe Thomas and Augie Weissert blankets are both reproductions of contract blankets that happened differ somewhat from the QM specifications in terms of size and weight. The County Cloth 1851 blanket is a reproduction of a blanket that met the QM specifications.

Like the domet flannel issue shirt and the wool flannel contract shirt, a variety of blankets conforming to the regs by lesser or greater degrees served side by side throughout the war.

John Stillwagon




??? - Is it advisable to get hobnails and/or heel plates when placing a shoe order?



What is blousing your pants and is it authentic?
Actually, there are times to blouse your trousers and times not to. There are dozens of period references both in images, field sketches, and writings of soldiers tucking their trousers into their socks.

The current "no blousing" trend was originally a response to mainstream reenactors ALWAYS tucking trousers into their bad ragwool sock or sometimes those cool red hunting socks. (Anybody remember those?)

Because of this, many authentics started rolling up their trousers. This is equally correct.

A good rule of thumb is if you are in camp or in a garrison situation, don't roll up or blouse your trousers. If you are on campaign, especially in muddy conditions, feel free to do either.

Oftentimes, we look for "one size fits all" rules to answer our questions. More often that not, these rules prove to be oversimplifications.

John Stillwagon

PS: Personally, I roll up my trousers because I don't like stretching out my socks.


Why do authentic reenactors have their shirts totally buttoned, and the mainstream reenactors don't?
We portray men of an entirely different age - when victorian sensibility was really the rage. Men did not go out in various states of undress.

At the time, your shirt was actually considered part of your underwear and to appear in just your shirt, or your unbuttoned shirt was terribly uncouth. The shirt was so much a part of your underwear because it actually DID function in that manner.

Ladies divert your eyes. Men's drawers typically had an oval shaped opening about the area of the crotch. Many reenactors when they get authentic drawers will sew this opening shut or put a button there to pull it together because it's uncomfortable.

What many believe however, is that a man's shirt was to be tucked inside his drawers thus closing that opening and acting as a folded underwear garment, much like today's briefs. In order to relieve himself, a man would simply unbutton his fly, reach through the oval and untuck his shirt a bit, to do his duty.

After completing his issue, the man would simply retuck his shirt tail into oval in his drawers, rebutton his fly and be done with it.


Is it authentic to wear a 'railroad' type bandana around my neck, like is see worn at reenactments?
No. You won't see them in period photos and you won't find reproduction 'railroad' bandanas for sale by any reputable maker.

Do us all a favor and save them for your Barbeque night at home.


??? - What is the proper way to clean & care for my clothing, shoes & accoutrements?



What do I look for when choosing a period pocket watch?
In general, you should look for the following features when picking a pocket watch to use when reenacting. Remember that you are trying to carry a typical watch for the time, not an expensive or rare items. As has been pointed out more than once on these forums, not everyone had a watch. That's what the bugle is for! Look for the following for a PEC watch:

1) Key wind/key set

2) Large in size (about size 18 or larger...) Small watches were less common and more expensive.

3) Look for Roman numerals (not Arabic) on the face; and the "4" should be "IIII", not "IV". Just a little weirdness from that time period.

4) Open face watches were more common than hunter cased watches. Coin or nickle silver would be the more common type of case, as opposed to sterling silver or gold.

5) Get a decent watch chain and fob. IF you had a watch, you would most likely have a chain that would accommodate the watch and the key. Please don't cheap out here. Don't get a cheap sutler chain. Remember that your chain is much more visible than the watch. I would rather see a poor watch for 30 seconds while someone checks the time than see a bad chain displayed all day long!

6) You do not have to spend lots of money to get a good watch for reenacting. If you are willing to take a chance (and know what your are looking for) you can get a very nice, serviceable watch off of e-bay for less than $200.00. My best find was a New York Watch company key wind/set in a coin silver hunter case with a sterling silver chain for $150.00. The watch was made in 1873 and runs like a top. You can't date it as post war without a serial number chart. The seller did not know that the little lion hallmark on the chain links was an English sterling mark. Check a book on watches out from the library, learn a little bit and have fun hunting for a bargain!

Tim Prince
equaliser@earthlink.net

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

One thing you need to remember before you decide to carry this less than necessary and expensive item. They are NOT shockproof. one good drop and it is gone, some of the Swiss versions can be very hard to repair. The watch need not fall, if you fall it can do it, which is why the old stories of "his watch stopped at the moment he died" are normally true.

Boyd Miles
boydmiles@aol.com

[Tom Ezell]

Re: Old FAQ: General Reenacting

What is the difference between a reenactment, a living history, or an immersion event?
What is a Farb?
Why do most reenactors seem to have such disdain for progressives & hardcores?
Is it true, as my mainstream unit members tell me, that hardcores are elitist and mean-spirited snobs?
Is it authentic to smoke cigarettes at an event?
??? - Is it against Victorian sensibilities to be in shirtsleeves while at an event and/or while in camp?
Is it authentic to wear a 'railroad' type bandana around my neck, like is see worn at reenactments?
Why are all the women & children in camps at reenactments? is that authentic?
Do spectators even notice the difference between authentics and mainstreamers?
Where can I find more Civil War reenacting discussion on the internet?
How do I get started in reenacting?
How do I find an authentic group to join?
How can I find an authentic group in my locale?
How do I go about finding a reenactment group in my area, and how can I tell if they are authentic?
How can I find out what regiment my Grandfather was in?
Are A-frame tents authentic, like I see prevelant at reenactments?
??? - How do I keep my teeth clean at events? do I bring my modern toothbrush and toothpaste?



What is the difference between a reenactment, a living history, or an immersion event?
A Reenactment is any event where participants recreate the actions of those they choose to portray. In Civil War reenacting, this is an all-encompassing term and describes most events, however loosely. General reenactments don't normally provide much opportunity for first-person interaction. A reenactor at a general reenactment might say to spectators, "We portray Civil War soldiers."

A specific sort of Reenactment is the Living History. A Living History event is put on with the public in mind and the idea is to present the Civil War soldier as realistically as possible. A Living Historian/Reenactor at a Living History might say to spectators, "I am a Civil War soldier."

Another specialized sort of event is the Immersion Event. These events are usually set in a totally 19th century envirnoment and the attempt is made to make you feel as if you ARE in the 1860s. Normally, modern spectators are not invited to an immersion event. The men focus on staying in "first person" and interacting with each other, and creating a believable environment for each other, rather then the spectators.


What is a Farb?
A Farb is one who attends reenactments for the sheer personal enjoyment of it. He often likes to shoot the gun, drink beer and make a general mockery of those he suggests he portrays. He has little concern for resembling a Civil War soldier, his main focus is usually to just fit in among the other reenactors, and often does a poor job at that.

A Farb has little concern for the quality, and historical accuracy of his uniform, equipment or other aspects of his impression.


Why do most reenactors seem to have such disdain for progressives & hardcores?
The answer is two-fold:

Fear of the Unknown: The ranks of any authentic company are by-and-large filled with former mainstream reenactors, many of whom will attest that they were initially nervous about joining an 'authentic' group. Expectations can be high in authentic ranks and there is an initial trepidation about joining us. What most of us who have made the transition have found however is that those in authenticity are waiting with open arms to welcome new-comers. All one needs to bring is a willingness to set aside his mainstream preconceptions and be 'moldable.'

The second reason mainstream reenactors have such disdain for progressives & hardcores is Mainstream Groups Fear Losing Men to the Authentic Ranks: One of the biggest fears of any mainstream company is that their key members will catch the authenticity-bug. When this happens, and a couple have been to the promised land and returned, their membership in their mainstream company wanes quickly. Members of mainstream companies have seen this happen over and over and as a defense mechanism, they try to ingrain their new members with a mindset that hardcores are all meanies. By doing so, they are attempting to keep their key people in the mainstream ranks.


Is it true, as my mainstream unit members tell me, that hardcores are elitist and mean-spirited snobs?
Authentics & Hardcores are a bit independent by nature but that certainly doesn't equate to being mean-spirited or elitest. The mere existance of the Authentic Campaigner Website points to authentics/hardcores' willingness to share their information with common, mainstream reenactor.

Certainly there is a small minority of the authentic community who call themselves hardcore who are mean-spirited and elitest, but they are in no-way representative of the entire authentic whole. The same type of elitist & mean-spirited lot exists in the mainstream camps as well, but that barrel shouldn't be just by a couple of bad apples either.

As in every walk of life, there are folks that behave in a less gentlemanly fashion than they should and reenacting is no different. These are human conditions, and not particular to reenactors and living historians.


Is it authentic to smoke cigarettes at an event?
Recent research has pointed to evidence that cigarettes were available to high-society, city-folk in 1860's America; BUT, they would have been filterless.
The common soldier whould have most likely not known of this new high society fad, much less had access to this new form of tobacco smoking.

The cost of cigarettes would have been prohibitive and difficult to obtain. To this date, no diary entry, sutler record or any other notation that soldiers in the field had access to them.

The best bet to quench the 'thirst' for tobacco is to smoke a pipe or chew tobacco plug or twist. Occasionally a soldier, or in particular an officer, might have had a cigar - but they were oft-times difficult to obtain for the common man.


??? - Is it against Victorian sensibilities to be in shirtsleeves while at an event and/or while in camp?



Is it authentic to wear a 'railroad' type bandana around my neck, like is see worn at reenactments?
The burden of proof is on the wearer to show that bandanas were worn by soldiers in that fashion, and in numbers that would warrant one using it in his impression.

One would likely have a difficult time proving it as the men were expected to be 'in uniform' and wearing a red bandana around one's neck certainly is not a standard military appearance.

Once more, if one can show that Civil War soldiers wore them, one also has a burden to bring an authentically reproduced 'bandana' and not just any dime store shelf bandana.

The best bet is to leave the bandana at home.


Why are all the women & children in camps at reenactments? is that authentic?
There were certainly occasions in the war when the armies would clash in and about the homes of the civilian population. This would have often displaced civilians from their homes.

Would the civilians have been in military camps? No. Only during the early part of the war was a launderess or the relative of an officer were women ever permitted into the camps.

There are however, many authentic scenarios which would bring authentic citizenry together with Civil War soldiers:
- as refugees
- as citizens seeing their soldiers off to war
- as trades-people (selling pies from a cart to soldiers as they pass in column)

There are other examples, but to answer the question, women and children are not appropriate to be in a military camp or battle scenario unless they can be documented to that period, place and timeframe.


Do spectators even notice the difference between authentics and mainstreamers?
Recently, I had an interesting conversation with a gentleman while attending a Rev War event in Winston-Salem, North Carolina. The specator had approached me and began asking the usual questions. Are you hot? Is that wool? Well as we began to talk he expressed his gratitude at our efforts to be authentic (we had to camps for this event tent city and campaigner). As we talked about authenticity he mentioned going to the event at Averasboro. He must of talked for a good thirty minutes about how much he enjoyed what he referred to as the "trench area". He said he learned more just by watching the interactions in that area than he had any of the other areas of the event. He offered a lot of high praise. I told him I was not at that event but thanked him for those that were and suggested he might want to contact event staff and tell them how much he enjoyed our efforts.

It was nice to hear that even the general public can tell the difference between what is correct and what's not. It means our efforts, while frustrating at times, do not go unnoticed. I know it made me feel good

Tripp Corbin
Co. G, 10th Texas Infantry



Where can I find more Civil War reenacting discussion on the internet?
Discussion Forums for Authentic Civil War Reenacting:

Authentics UK

Civil War Artillery Reenactors Discussion

Confederate Uniform and Equipage Research Board

Frontier Guard

Lee's Authentic Reenactor Board


Western Authentic Cavalry Board

General Purpose Civil War Reenacting Discussion Forums:

American Civil War Bugling Board

CW Reenactors

Teen Reenactors


How do I get started in reenacting?
The best place to start of is the Authentic Campaigner website

Go there and read read read. Specifically start with the articles there and digest them. Decide on an impression (CS or US, THEN Inf, Art, Cav, or Navy) Then go to contacts section and research and explore to find a unit in your area that looks good to you. Then go to the vendors section and explore and find out where and at what price to get the gear for your impression.

Once you have done this, return to this forum or your new pards in the units you contact and ask away any questions you may still have.



How do I find an authentic group to join?
If you look up at the top of your screen, you should see a link under our banner for We maintain a fairly up-to-date and comprehensive list of authentic groups all around the United States and even the world.

Search through those contacts, send out a few emails to some folks in relative proximity to you and you should be on your way to finding a more authentic group.

Note: Still use your judgement however. Just because they made our list doesn't mean that they are the best unit in the hobby. You need to evaluate them, just as they need to evaluate you.


How can I find an authentic group in my locale?
Your best bet is to visit the Authentic Campaigner Contacts page and try to locate some units in your region.

In the mainstream movement, companies are usually raised up in a 50-100 mile radius. In the authenticity movement however, we're a little more spread out and thus its common for you to be in a mess or organization with guys that live 100-200 miles away and possibly in a 2 or 3 state area.

The internet helps us stay in touch though, the only real difference is its hard to get together for monthly meetings and round rolling parties.


How do I go about finding a reenactment group in my area, and how can I tell if they are authentic?
Visit our Contacts Page for one. If the unit has a website, visit it and see what vendors are listed, what impressions are required, who they associate with and the like.

If they say they are authentically minded, thats terrific, but make them prove it. It'd be good for you to fall in with them once or twice before officially joining just to make sure that they are who they say they are.

Beware of groups that just want to look the part with authentic clothes. That's only part of the equation, you also want a group thats going to play the part of a soldier as well by attending quality events, participating in drill, living history, first person, etc.


How can I find out what regiment my Grandfather was in?
We suggest you try the Civil War Soldiers & Sailors System.


Are A-frame tents authentic, like I see prevelant at reenactments?
A-frames can be authentic in the correct scenario but since so much of what we do currently is 'on campaign' we in the authenticity movement rarely use them. In a garrison or winter camp scenario they could certainly be appropriate but even then, authentically produced A Tents are very hard to find.


??? - How do I keep my teeth clean at events? do I bring my modern toothbrush and toothpaste?

[Tom Ezell]

Re: Rebuilding the FAQ - what would you add?

Anyway, here is the text of the old ones that I had squirreled away... Please feel free to move/delete/whatever is needed. I do have the web pages archived if it would be easier to rebuild them that way, or cut and past from the text up above.

It all needs a little updating, but at least we don't have to start back from scratch...

Tom

[Abrams]

Re: Rebuilding the FAQ - what would you add?

**I re-posted this after deciding I posted this in a bad place**
**Delete or not as you see fit, and Sorry**

I have been searching diligently, and cannot seem to find this info anywhere:

How do you store your wool clothing between events?

My mother pointed out to me that being all wool, moths will love to eat holes and such into it. To prevent this, she has used mothballs and these big garbage bags with scented bags in them.

However, I think arriving at an authentic event smelling like a mothball would be frowned upon. Same with smelling like a glade air freshner. So what do you-all do?

My first inclination is to fold and place the wool items in a plastic garbage bag with a couple hunks of cedar to discourage the moths, because cedar is not as potent or modern smelling as mothballs and sachet packs.

So what do you all do with your woollens between events?

Thanks

[Trish Hasenmueller]

Re: Rebuilding the FAQ - what would you add?

In the Citizens area one question that is asked repeatedly is: How do I get my wife/girlfriend/child/self dressed and ready for reenacting as a citizen?

The answers are very complicated.

Trish Hasenmueller

[BishopLynch]

Re: Rebuilding the FAQ - what would you add?

Tom's posts hit on many questions which we hear over and over and over again on the AC. Could you sift through those and maybe put the most necessary and/or most frequent FAQ? Also, I think that the Subscription service will be a big help clearing out some of the repetition.