Fabric for Overcoats

[kevinw33]

Re: Fabric for Overcoats

Ok. Having read that now, I'd say the family might have had access to a variety of different materials. You could use practically anything, even the heavier kersey wools. None of them would be out of the possibility of fabric color and weave ranges.

If you were replicating the coat exactly as preserved, you'd have to use jean cloth. I understand that's what the coat is made from, if I'm thinking of the correct coat. The original color is probably indeteminate by now, with fading and aging. I'd pick either a darker gray or blue jeans cloth from either Charlie Childs or Ben Tart. If you use Ben Tart's jean cloth, you should wash it once in cold water and let it air dry, then iron it. The cloth, as I understand it, has not been "finished", meaning what I just described. Finishing tightens up the weave a bit and reduces unravelling at the cut edges. Charllie's will still unravel a bit, but not as much as Ben's. I've worked with both, and I like them both. I didn't "finish" Ben's either, but it worked well enough right off the roll.

I'd like to hear what experience you have with the coat while you are building it, as I would like to do the same, probably next spring or summer.

Well, I am cheating.

We have a group of women at the Atlanta History Center who do all of our clothing production so I wont be building it (thank God). I cant tie my shoes, much less make an overcoat!

[Elaine Kessinger]

Re: Fabric for Overcoats

Sir- With respect, you are NOT cheating. You are becoming an informed consumer.
Our hobby would be much better if other consumers followed your example by researching their purchases, including custom work, beforehand, rather than just accepting what's offered as correct (or correct for every personna, event, &ect.).

Would the "lady at the Atlanta History Center" be willing to share her experiences with the group? :)

[lukegilly13]

Re: Fabric for Overcoats

A question for those who have had the opportunity to look at original civilian overcoats...in a 100% wool fabric, what were the common colors/dyes?
For instance, would it be out of the ordinary to see an overcoat in a "navy blue" or indigo dye similar to federal fatigue blouses? Another question would be do overcoats mock the dyes and fabrics of sack coats and frocks?

[Ian McWherter]

Re: Fabric for Overcoats

A question for those who have had the opportunity to look at original civilian overcoats...in a 100% wool fabric, what were the common colors/dyes?
For instance, would it be out of the ordinary to see an overcoat in a "navy blue" or indigo dye similar to federal fatigue blouses? Another question would be do overcoats mock the dyes and fabrics of sack coats and frocks?

Solid sober colors such as gray, dark blue, brown and most commonly black are your best choices for a working class overcoat. A dark blue indigo dyed overcoat could match the color of some fatigue blouses, but I'd try to avoid anything too bright. Fatigue blouses are made from from 8oz. flannel (or thereabouts) which is far lighter than any overcoat fabric I'm familiar with. The flannel just isn't dense or heavy enough to make a solid warm winter overcoat that will last many years. The best Fabric for a good period overcoat I'd recommend would be Abimelech Hainsworths black or garter blue superfine broadcloth (while fine its actually closer to period overcoating than actual superfine used on coats). You can purchase the cloth through Needle & Thread , though last I heard this fabric is running $125 a yard. That would be the best cloth and closest to the originals, but if the expense is too high you could go with kersey, say from W W & Co.

[jwoodli]

Re: Fabric for Overcoats

Ian, what do you think of corduroy? Not for an overcoat (as said earlier), but for the basic coat of a working man...
Thanks.