Garibaldi Blouse question

[Michael Comer]

While reading a back issue of "Citizen's Companion", I came across the following in reference to the Garibaldi blouse:

"Also, these waists were considered undergarments, just as men's shirts were, and were not worn alone."

Two pages later, in an article by a different author about a different but related subject, there is a period photo of a young woman wearing a garibaldi blouse with no jacket at all.

This is a bit confusing. I realize that not all writers know what they are talking about but the author of the article seemed to have very good credentials. Yet, a period photo completely contradicts what she had said.

What's the correct way to wear one of these? With or without a jacket or either way?

[Hank Trent]

Re: Garibaldi Blouse question

Godey's illustrates quite a few women wearing only skirts and garibaldi blouses. I don't have an Accessible Archives subscription anymore, but I recalled this one from Godey's: http://www.blockaderunner.com/images/garibaldi6.gif The girl is illustrated carrying schoolbooks, implying she's dressed ready to go out.

Hank Trent
hanktrent@voyager.net

[Elaine Kessinger]

Re: Garibaldi Blouse question

Wearing a Garibaldi, general rules.
1) UNDER 25 years old and not married for longer than 1 year
2) all the apropriate undergarments are worn, including corset
3) fitted correctly, over a tightly fitted lining
4) made of fine, fashionable materials with a wealth of correct trim
5) the rest of the ensemble is equally fine fabrics and trims (NO CALICO!!!)

did I mention it should ONLY be worn by the young and fashionable...who's personnas are rich enough to pull it off correctly?

I am sorry to sound snarky, I'm just very tired of the over-representation of the blouse/skirt combo done incorrectly...using photos like you found as documentation, as an excuse to put blinders on, stop research, and wear what they feel like.

[Hank Trent]

Re: Garibaldi Blouse question

3) fitted correctly, over a tightly fitted lining

Could you explain more about that one? The Godey's illustrations seem to show fairly loosely fitting shirts. Did Garibaldi blouses have separate tightly fitting linings underneath? I thought that like men's shirts, which they were patterned after, they just had one layer, with at most a double layer at reinforcing points.

What's a good example of a correctly fitted Garibaldi from a period illustration or photo? Are there any photos or illustrations of how the lining was constructed?

Hank Trent
hanktrent@voyager.net

[Elaine Kessinger]

Re: Garibaldi Blouse question

Mr. Trent- Right, I spoke to quickly about a lining being present; however, while they may apear loose and unfitted, they were in fact attached to a waistband and the fitting was much, Much more controled than one would find in a man's shirt.
Some eye candy: http://www.thegracefullady.com/civil...hreewomen2.jpg

http://www.thegracefullady.com/civilwargowns/images/cdvs/daydresses/lady_lovelyhair_dress1.jpg

http://www.thegracefullady.com/civilwargowns/images/cdvs/daydresses/garibaldistyle.jpg

[Michael Comer]

Re: Garibaldi Blouse question

Interesting information but it doesn't answer my question about whether or not it was proper to wear them without a jacket or other top covering. I take it by the posted photographs, it was acceptable?

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Garibaldi Blouse question

Michael -
A Garibaldi shirt was traditionally made from lightweight solid colored wool and embellished with braid trimming. The most popular version was made from red wool with black trimming - much like the 'red shirts' worn by Garibaldi and his followers. Garibaldi shirts made in other solid colors and from other fabrics - including white cotton -quickly became popular. A Garibaldi shirt is cut full and loose and is usually gathered into a band at the waistline. The fullness is controlled with gathers on either side of the center front and across the back. Sleeves are long, full and gathered into a cuff. The shirt may or may not have a small standing collar. If the waistband of the shirt is trimmed with braidwork, it is worn over the waistband over the skirt. I've been researching these garments for almost four decades and I personally have not found a primary source that classifies them or equates them to an undergarment. A survey of primary sources sources indicate Garibaldi shirts could be and were worn with or without jackets.

Garibaldi shirts should not be confused with white waists or bodies. Made from fine white cotton or silk, these garments could be loose or somewhat fitted and were usually worn with a skirt made from fine silk or wool. They were often worn with a shaped belt and usually - but not always - with a jacket.

Elaine -
I realize you said "Wearing a Garibaldi, general rules" and general comments may not include all the variations that were worn. However, I respectfully disagree with several of your comments.

1) UNDER 25 years old and not married for longer than 1 year

May I ask your sources for this information? While new fashions are frequently adopted by younger women, primary sources indicate that Garibaldi shirts were worn by women of many ages. While we can't determine actual ages from photographs unless they are identified or provenance is available, I have at least 30+ images of women that appear to be well past 25 - and some that are obviously middle-aged - wearing Garibaldi-style shirts. I am especially interested in the source for the marriage limitation. I've not found that in my research and I'd love to add that source to my files, even thought I'm quite confident it was not a common practice.

3) fitted correctly, over a tightly fitted lining

I see that you corrected this statement. I've had the fortune to examine several original Garibaldi-style shirts. None of them had a lining of any sort, and I personally have not found a reference to a Garibaldi shirt with this type of construction.

4) made of fine, fashionable materials with a wealth of correct trim

Some of the original Garibaldi shirts I've examined have been quite simple - with just tucks and a very modest amount of straight lines of braid for trim. Some have had the correct cut and were made from appropriate fabrics but did not have any trimming at all. Others have been embellished with elaborate braidwork.

I've also examined extant garments that - while made from good-quality fabrics - would not fall into the "fine, fashionable" materials category. As the style became more popular, it was adapted by women from many socio-economic classes. Garibaldi shirts were also used as a means to extend a garment that required alteration or re-working, as evidenced in theis quotation:

May 1862 Editors Table.
The Garibaldi shirt is gaining in favor, having been sufficiently well supported to carry it through the formidable opposition with which it was at first encountered. The emperor of the French, on first seeing the empress in one of these articles, expressed the most forcible disapproval; but this being in a clear white material, might, as we imagine, make the objections all the stronger. These Garibaldi shirts are now made in colored flannels and other wool manufactures, and they have the merit of being warm and comfortable, and inexpensive, leaving to the limbs all that freedom of motion which is essential to health. Stripes of white and some gay color are now the most fashionable, but scarlet, and Solferino, and violet, are also much worn. Almost every lady has in her wardrobe one or more silk dresses, of which the skirts have survived the bodies, and these are extremely suitable for wearing with these Garibaldi shirts, making a stylish morning toilet, and at the same time, preventing the necessity of purchasing new dresses. Dark-colored silks are also made up in the same way, with the fronts, cuffs and collars stitched in white by machinery, and in these the skirt and the body are sometimes alike, and sometimes different. Thus, a black skirt may have a violet shirt, a brown one a black, or the reverse. For the young ladies of a family between the ages of eight and twelve, these loose bodies are extremely suitable; for instance, a black or French blue merino skirt, bordered with five or six inches of scarlet, and worn with a Garibaldi body of the same scarlet, has a very good effect; or the black may have the same accompaniments in the blue, with equal propriety of taste. For a young lady under eight years of age, a brown Brussels cord, having a band of French blue silk turned up from the bottom, and a narrow velvet of a little darker color laid on the silk half an inch from its upper edge, makes a very pretty dress, with a large circular cape, trimmed to match. This Garibaldi shirt is also made in black and white stripes of different widths, all of which have a very striking effect.

5) the rest of the ensemble is equally fine fabrics and trims (NO CALICO!!!)

I completely agree on the "no calico" comment. :) And a modern white blouse or, even worse, a man's mid-19th century shirt, is nothing like a Garibaldi shirt in style, construction, fabric or embellishment.

did I mention it should ONLY be worn by the young and fashionable...who's personnas are rich enough to pull it off correctly?

My research indicates that Garibaldi shirts were worn by females ranging in age from young girls to what appears to be upper middle-age; they were not limited only to the young. Nor were they limited to the fashionable or the wealthy. Of all the images I've examined - in my collection and others - Garibaldi shirts that can be described as "somewhat fashionable" or "practical" far exceed those that could be described as "high fashion or very fashionable".

Unfortunately, the blouse/skirt combination seen at many events and sold by many merchants bears no resemblance whatsoever to the original garments.

Regards,

[Michael Comer]

Re: Garibaldi Blouse question

Thank you. That's the type information I was looking for.

[VMurphy]

Re: Garibaldi Blouse question

Carolanne ... Thanks so much for all that info! I have a camel tan wool flannel dress that I've worn to death. I'd be tempted to make a garibaldi in a pretty purple or red to wear with the skirt. Would this be appropriate to wear around Boonefield Village. It represents an active village with school,church,potter, printer,general store. And is a days ride from St.Louis. I've read some accounts of farmers of that area taking their fare to town, selling it, staying over night in the city and riding home the next day.

Thanks again for your help
Vivian Murphy

http://www.themantuamaker.net

[Drygoods]

Re: Garibaldi Blouse question

[QUOTE=Carolann Schmitt;141272]. While we can't determine actual ages from photographs unless they are identified or provenance is available, I have at least 30+ images of women that appear to be well past 25 - and some that are obviously middle-aged - wearing Garibaldi-style shirts. I am especially interested in the source for the marriage limitation. I've not found that in my research and I'd love to add that source to my files, even thought I'm quite confident it was not a common practice.
Some have had the correct cut and were made from appropriate fabrics but did not have any trimming at all. Others have been embellished with elaborate braidwork.
I've also examined extant garments that - while made from good-quality fabrics - would not fall into the "fine, fashionable" materials category.
My research indicates that Garibaldi shirts were worn by females ranging in age from young girls to what appears to be upper middle-age; they were not limited only to the young.QUOTE]


Mrs. Schmitt,
I cannot tell you how delighted I was to read your post as I've been working on a Garibaldi outfit for the past four months. I had made a dark burgundy silk skirt and cut the blouse pieces likely 6-8 years ago, however, never got around to getting the thing finished. Well, in January, I met the project head on and decided to get it done even if I was too old, or if it was not my size. I put roughly 4+ hours of embroidery work into the thing daily. I didn't use braid simply because I couldn't buy it where I live, and thought that if I copied an embroidery pattern with the same designs, it would look fairly accurate. Well, I've embroidered roughly 30 skeins of floss, with each being a 2-strand thread, and am near completion. After the skirt and blouse were done, I copied the same pattern to a loose black silk jacket with the burgunday thread emboidery design. What keeps me from finishing the whole thing is that I've not yet found 25 smal black buttons that I think are good enough to finish it. I have some black thread acorn shaped buttons that are nice, but am not sure if they suit the style of the dress. Thread buttons look too heavy over silk IMHO, unless black ones for mourning.

I have photographed a few original Garibaldi's in my time, and most as I recall were flannel, and one possibly a linen, all lovely and beautiful.

Would I ever wear mine? I have no idea, but I'd certainly like a few CDVs of older women wearing them to carry along as proof that the middle-aged was well dressed. My only other hope is that my daughter returns to living history and wears the dress.:wink_smil

Again, many kind thanks for sharing your information.:D