Pleated front Shirt

[VMurphy]

I just received the Homespun pleated front men's shirt in the mail, and am surprised to see that the pleats are horizontal, not vertical.
I'm not questioning the documentation of this shirt, for it is mentioned in the pattern. I guess I'm just wondering how prevalent one direction of pleating was over the other.
And does anyone have any photos of originals with the horizontal pleating?

Thanks
Vivian Murphy

http://www.themantuamaker.net

[Little Jo]

Re: Pleated front Shirt

When my boyfriend bought that pattern I was skeptical myself. I dont know of any originals but I found this.

http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu20/calico_outlaw/mens%20clothing/mensshirt.jpg

[Jefferson Guards]

Re: Pleated front Shirt

Do you mean like this shirt?

http://www.historicalimagebank.com/gallery/main.php/v/album02/album22/album109/CWu161d-+Gould+shirt+copy.jpg.html

[Jefferson Guards]

Re: Pleated front Shirt

Also, from a March 1860's Godey's which makes the statement that the horizontal style of pleating "is very much in vogue among the young men."

[DougCooper]

Re: Pleated front Shirt

Otis Baker, an officer in the 10th MS Inf who saved everything he could, from underwear to hats and most of his uniforms (see EoG), wore a rather wild shirt with horizontal pleats that Joe Blunt has seen. He made a repro of the original for me. I will try to find a photo from the Old Capitol Museum Collection. It conforms to the pattern seen here, with the center placket dividing the pleats, but without the little tab to anchor it to the trousers.

[brown]

Re: Pleated front Shirt

Are they folded and sewn such that the opening is up or down?

[VMurphy]

Re: Pleated front Shirt

Yes, just like the examples that all of you posted..thanks! I knew the patterns were documented, I'd just not seen any reproductions made this way...
I'll be making some...I have some pieces of wonderfully fine pima cotton in checks and one plaid that will make wonderful shirts. What about white shirts in linen...do you fellas like these? This pattern would be beautfful made up in a fine linen! I love to sew with linen and FFC has it on sale :)
Although this particular pattern suggests that an all white shirt was more standard than the white bib on a print shirt...? What about this???

Best Regards
Vivian Murphy

[Old Cremona]

Re: Pleated front Shirt

Vivian, I'd love to order one of those shirts from you. Must be up-to-date, don't you know.:wink_smil

[tmdreb]

Re: Pleated front Shirt

I've used that pattern before, and once was enough. It's not very good at all. The shirt doesn't fit right across the shoulders, and it's far too short if cut to the pattern. There are other issues as well, which are too many for me to deal with again.

[VMurphy]

Re: Pleated front Shirt

Carl...I'd be happy to help you "stay in fashion" :) I have 12 yds. of linen on order and want to get started as soon as it arrives. But it won't be until after I get the sewing completed for the July 4th deadline.
Regards
Vivian Murphy

http://www.themantuamaker.net

[VMurphy]

Re: Pleated front Shirt

OH, dear...don't like hearing this. If you don't mind my asking, what was it about the shoulders that you didn't like?
The length would need to be adjusted according to the wearer, I'm certain. And the same for the sleeve length.
I've not taken the time to sit down and study the pattern, but will do very shortly :)
Regards
Vivian Murphy

http://www.themantuamaker.net

[tmdreb]

Re: Pleated front Shirt

At the time, I was dumb enough to cut it out on the size that should have fit me without really even looking at it.

The seam between the shirt and sleeves just seems to be in the wrong place.

I've seen the original Godey's pattern this pattern is based on, and I think they just didn't quite get the sizing right, which is a common fault of Homespun Patterns.

[VMurphy]

Re: Pleated front Shirt

[QUOTE=tmdreb;147997]The seam between the shirt and sleeves just seems to be in the wrong place.

Are ;you speaking about the armseye? Was it the shape or the size? I'll be sure and watch for this when sizing/cutting out the shirts...

I must say that ALL patterns have their faults and won't fit without being sized to the wearer. That's the first rule of basic sewing, is fitting the pattern :)
For women's clothing, a muslin drafted to the person is a must, and a "pattern" isn't really needed!
I'm wondering if the same could be true for a man's shirt...to get the right fit through the shoulders and chest/belly :) Especially true for vests as well.

I have some wonderful silk in my stash, and some vests are next on my list as well :wink_smil

Regards
Vivian Murphy

http://www.themantuamake.net

[MrsArmstrong]

Re: Pleated front Shirt

Measure, measure and measure before you cut! I made a shirt for my son from the Workwoman's Guide when he was 10. I measured him before cutting out the material but forgot to measure the munchkin's neck...DOH! I didn't try it on him till I was done...hand sewing the whole thing. I used the measurement from the WWG for his size. Who would think a 10 year old would have a fat neck You could follow a period pattern and it still won't fit if you don't measure and make a muslin!

Susan Armstrong

[tmdreb]

Re: Pleated front Shirt

It's the location of the armscye that's slightly awkward. It's as if the shirt can't quite make up its mind whether to be drop-shouldered or not. During normal wear, it's not all that noticeable.

A muslin mock-up would be a good idea for a shirt. For other garments, use something more stout, as muslin tends to stretch, and won't fit the same way the real fabric will.

It's the garment that got me to swear off other peoples' patterns. I know there are good ones out there, but I like having more control. Yes, having a proper set of measurements is key.