Tweet
Re: White Collars
John -
Cravats can cover a multitude of sins: collars and neckbands that don't fit; gravy stains on your shirt front, missing buttons, etc. :) But they can only conceal a collar that doesn't fit; they can't fix the problem. Fortunately, we can.
The problem with your gapping collar is based on a principle called "roll of the cloth". The easiest way to demonstrate this is to take several pieces of paper and roll them into a tube. See how the edges of the pages are layered, with each edge extending a bit beyond the other? In order for all the edges to be aligned, each piece of paper would need to be a bit wider than the one beneath it.
The same principle applies to neckbands and collars. The inner neckband - the layer closest to the skin - is the smallest. Each successive layer - outer neckband, inner collar band, stiffening, outer collar band - must be slightly larger. On a modern shirt, the outer band on a collar can be 1/8" - 1/4" larger in circumference than the inner band.
If you cut the band on the collar the same size as the band on the shirt, it will be too short and it won't fit over the neckband of the shirt. Depending on the weight of the fabric, don't be surprised if the band on the detachable collar needs to be an inch (or more) larger than the neck band on the shirt.
The same principle applies to the two layers of the collar itself: the upper collar needs to be a bit larger than the under collar. If it's not, you'll get creases, ripples and bubbles instead of a nice flat surface.
I don't know if the problem on your shirt is because the collar is too small, the neckband is too big, or both; but it's an issue that your sewist should be able to resolve if they cut to accommodate the roll of the cloth.
Regards,
John -
Cravats can cover a multitude of sins: collars and neckbands that don't fit; gravy stains on your shirt front, missing buttons, etc. :) But they can only conceal a collar that doesn't fit; they can't fix the problem. Fortunately, we can.
The problem with your gapping collar is based on a principle called "roll of the cloth". The easiest way to demonstrate this is to take several pieces of paper and roll them into a tube. See how the edges of the pages are layered, with each edge extending a bit beyond the other? In order for all the edges to be aligned, each piece of paper would need to be a bit wider than the one beneath it.
The same principle applies to neckbands and collars. The inner neckband - the layer closest to the skin - is the smallest. Each successive layer - outer neckband, inner collar band, stiffening, outer collar band - must be slightly larger. On a modern shirt, the outer band on a collar can be 1/8" - 1/4" larger in circumference than the inner band.
If you cut the band on the collar the same size as the band on the shirt, it will be too short and it won't fit over the neckband of the shirt. Depending on the weight of the fabric, don't be surprised if the band on the detachable collar needs to be an inch (or more) larger than the neck band on the shirt.
The same principle applies to the two layers of the collar itself: the upper collar needs to be a bit larger than the under collar. If it's not, you'll get creases, ripples and bubbles instead of a nice flat surface.
I don't know if the problem on your shirt is because the collar is too small, the neckband is too big, or both; but it's an issue that your sewist should be able to resolve if they cut to accommodate the roll of the cloth.
Regards,
Comment