Velvet Collars

[WpnsMan]

After sewing a few shirts I thought I would tackle a civilian shawl collared vest for a winter project to add to my impression (working class Confederate Soldier). I have gathered my pattern and materials, less the fashion fabric. I am leaning towards a light to medium weight linen, one of which has a fine pin stripe.

To the meat of my question, how appropriate would velvet be for the collar of a vest during the immediate pre-war period? From the limited photographic evidence I have reviewed it seems that velvet was a common addition to many civilian and some military frock coats depending on the wearers means.

Would such be appropriate on a vest, viewed as gaudy or worse yet the trappings of a “Dandy”?

[Elaine Kessinger]

Re: Velvet Collars

No, a velvet collar (and pocket welts, covered buttons) are not "dandy" in the slightest... however they are more commonly seen on silk and fine wool vests, rather than linen. That linen does sound handsome for an unlined warm-weather vest or even a sack or paletot. :) Again, the velvet collars on the "coats" you are seeing would probably have been a fine wool rather than linen, also.

[rebjeb04]

Re: Velvet Collars

I agree with Elaine, and I have made a velveteen shawl collar vest. The collar is a black 100% cotton velveteen, and the body is of a wool plaid brown and gray. Velveteen, which is the shorter "pyle" texture would have probably been of silk fiber. However, finding it now is very difficult and expensive. The cotton stuff is just as good and has the correct feel anyway. It is highly likely they had the cotton stuff in the 1850-60's, and maybe Ian M. or some of the other textile experts here can elaborate on that. You might also want to log on to www.thesewingacademy.com for further research. They really go in depth on civilian and military clothing. Jim Ruley even has a few tutorials on how to construct certain garments.

Period Impressions has a good well documented pattern for this with research sheets and instructions. I would suggest purchasing it before you buy your fabric.

Good Luck,
Erik McBroom

[WpnsMan]

Re: Velvet Collars

Elaine,

Thank you for the quick response and insight. Up to this point, I have focused mainly on the military end of my impression and have limited knowledge of civilian fashions of the day. I am trying to make the effort to incorporate period correct civilian garments that would either have been brought with or sent from home into my personna to improve my over-all impression.

Specifically, I am looking at the linens listed on Wm. Booth, Draper’s website http://www.wmboothdraper.com/. Being either the medium brown stripe(WLN 327) or the chocolate brown(WLG 135) solid w/ or w/o brown velvet(WCC 105) for the collar. I am trying for a conservative middle class look as opposed to a gaudy (farb) river boat gambler look achieved by some printed silks.

[WpnsMan]

Re: Velvet Collars

Erik,

I have gleaned some excellent information by searching the sewing academy. From my research I went with the Folkwear vintage vest pattern 222 and will be making vest B with a couple suggested pocket modifications.

[rebjeb04]

Re: Velvet Collars

Hey Bryan,

Sounds like you are on the right track. Great things can also be learned by looking at period images. There is something about black velvet that really sets off a garment. I have been working on an C.S. officer's jacket from Charlie Childs' "Mystery" jacket pattern and modifying it with black velveteen collar and cuffs, and using all period tailoring techniques I learned off the sewing academy. I'am handsewing the whole coat so it is taking FOREVER!

[Ian McWherter]

Re: Velvet Collars

A velvet collar on a coat would be more common than on a vest. There are original vests in existence with velvet collars, but they tend to be fairly uncommon. Even in photographs of the period velvet collared vests tend to be a very small minority. So if you're going for a "common" look, I'd stay away from vests with velvet collars. All velvet vests on the other hand are pretty common, I have several original examples in my collection.

[WpnsMan]

Re: Velvet Collars

I'am handsewing the whole coat so it is taking FOREVER!

I know what you mean Erik,

Since I received my first shirt kit, "Damn you Dan Wambaugh!" everything I have made to this point (3 shirts and 1 set of drawers) has been 100% hand sewn. That and I am too cheap to buy that Wilcox and Gibbs machine I’ve been coveting. To me, the long seams are the biggest chore and most monotonous. As this is a winter project I have plenty of time to get it right.

[Ian McWherter]

Re: Velvet Collars

using all period tailoring techniques I learned off the sewing academy.

Some of those tailoring techniques are from early 1900 sources and are not found on men's clothing of the Civil War era, so be cautious. Careful study of original garments dating to the 1860s, or before, is the best way to truly understand how men's clothing of this period was constructed. Everything else is speculation.

[WpnsMan]

Re: Velvet Collars

Thanks for the advice Ian,

I think I will forgo the velvet collar.

Now to decide if I will cover the buttons or not.

[rebjeb04]

Re: Velvet Collars

Hey Ian,
Thanks for the tip. I am usually pretty cautious when working on a project. Have you been working on anything new lately? I'd like to get one of those frocks, but recessions arn't very much fun.

Take care, and I'll give you a call sometime.

Erik

[Busterbuttonboy]

Re: Velvet Collars

Man its no wonder I cant find any originals to study and speculate on. Ian's got everything!

[Clark Badgett]

Re: Velvet Collars

I'am handsewing the whole coat so it is taking FOREVER!

I understand completely. I did the same thing years ago when I made my Mystery jacket. You can see it in my avatar. The fingers were pretty sore after it was finished.

[csabugler]

Re: Velvet Collars

I'm working on a bergundy courderoy shawl collar vest with black polished cotton collar right now. Having a hard time understanding the straight edge of the "undercollar" attaching to the curve on the vest front. Past patterns instructions
mention "easing" . I take it that means sort of taking up the slack?
I've made 2 other vests in the past, but not the shawl type.

[Ian McWherter]

Re: Velvet Collars

I'm working on a bergundy courderoy shawl collar vest with black polished cotton collar right now. Having a hard time understanding the straight edge of the "undercollar" attaching to the curve on the vest front. Past patterns instructions
mention "easing" . I take it that means sort of taking up the slack?
I've made 2 other vests in the past, but not the shawl type.

Do you mean a black polished cotton undercollar?

To "ease" in the undercollar just pin it in place with a little slack in the undercollar piece between pins and hand baste into place before stitching. There's no need for any gathering stitches.