Velvet Collars

[csabugler]

Re: Velvet Collars

Actually, the collar is black, using a light cotton for the lining and the undercollar.

Thanks for the input, Ian. I have machinist training, a very "round hole/square peg " sort of person. Putting straight lines and curves together confuses me...

I guess there will be slight "puckers"?

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Velvet Collars

I'm not Ian (and yes, he does own just about everything cool, from what I can see, and reproduces it gorgeously, too! :) ) but I may be able to help on the easing.

Like Ian said, it's a matter of basting. But if that little bit of slack is making you nervous, just keep dividing and pinning.

Match up your end points and middle, and pin those. Then divide that little bit of slack in each section by matching mid-points again, and pinning. Keep dividing down, pinning the middles of each ever-smaller section, until you have the ease quite flat.

Then baste by hand, removing pins as you get to them.

You'll have eased it in without a single gather, and the chances of weird puckers and creases goes down tremendously.

[Ian McWherter]

Re: Velvet Collars

Actually, the collar is black, using a light cotton for the lining and the undercollar.

Thanks for the input, Ian. I have machinist training, a very "round hole/square peg " sort of person. Putting straight lines and curves together confuses me...

I guess there will be slight "puckers"?

If the ease is pinned, basted and then sewn into place properly there shouldn't be any puckering visible.

I've never seen an original vest with a black polished cotton top collar though, polished cotton is generally reserved for the under collar and vest backing and is usually brown (except for on light summer vests in which case it's plain cotton or linen). Generally the top collar is of the same fashion fabric as the body of the vest, originals with contrasting collars tend to be rare.

[Emmanuel Dabney]

Re: Velvet Collars

I am in agreement with Ian here. I have yet to observe polished cotton being used as a fashion fabric on men's coats, vests, or trousers. However, if anyone here has an original vest or description of a period vest that meets this criteria then I'll be looking forward to seeing it.

[csabugler]

Re: Velvet Collars

Ok, that being said, and having not gotten there yet, I'll rethink the polished cotton. I must admit it was a presumption on my part. I am operating under the second-hand notion that courderoy is more of a working class type of material which is why I steered away from the velvet. I did not not do the approriate research. :(
I will gladly yield to ya'll s research and rethink. So would a contrasting velvet be correct, or stay with the matching fabric? I'll never match it with velvet.

I'm new to the civilian thing, my past vests were much simpler .
Thanks

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Velvet Collars

There is ample documentation for corduroy vests with the collar made from the same fabric as the forepart of the vest. I have not yet found documentation for a corduroy vest with a collar made from contrasting fabric of any kind.

Regards,
Carolann

[csabugler]

Re: Velvet Collars

Glad I hadn't gotten there yet. Will use matching fabric.
Thanks to all.
Patrick

[Virginia Mescher]

Re: Velvet Collars

While complete hand stitching can definitely reproduce a period garment, you could use a modern sewing machine for the straight stitches on the seams. The lock stitch of modern machines is the same as period machines. Top stitching, button holes, and some other finishing would still need to be done by hand. But using a sewing machine should save you a few yards of stitching.

Michael Mescher

[csabugler]

Re: Velvet Collars

I have been known to machine stitch the long, hidden seams. Only drawback to that is it is harder to pull out when I screw up, which I seem to be doing A LOT of on this project!!!

Thanks for all the input.

[VMurphy]

Re: Velvet Collars

I agree that a velvet collar would be quite alright, but be more appropriate with a silk or wool vest. For linen, I can also recommend getting it from www.thefashionfabricsclub.com Their fabrics are all high quailty at very reasonable prices. Most of my wools,linens and cottons I get from them. They have some wonderful linens in stripes and checks that would make great vests.

Although this brings up another point I've questioned lately. Somewhere recently I saw that when a mans suit is not "ditto",that is all three pieces alike, that it is more common to have the vest and trousers match, with coat of a different color/textile ??? Are there any thoughts on this???

BTW...what pattern are you using? :)

Regards
Vivian Murphy

http://www.themantuamaker.net

[Ian McWherter]

Re: Velvet Collars

I agree that a velvet collar would be quite alright, but be more appropriate with a silk or wool vest.

As I stated in an earlier post, original vests with velvet collars are rarely encountered, regardless of the fashion fabric. All velvet vests are much more common, so it's either all or none.

[WpnsMan]

Re: Velvet Collars

Vivian,

As I stated earlier on, from my research I went with the Folkwear vintage vest pattern #222 and will be making vest B with a couple suggested pocket modifications.

Ian,

Your knowledge on civilian clothing is always appreciated and I will be going with 100% linen for the fashion fabric of my vest.

Thank you to all who provided input,

[VMurphy]

Re: Velvet Collars

Thanks Ian...I appreciate you comments. Since I'm still learning about men's clothing, your posts are always first read! Perhaps I'm recalling seeing the velvet trim on men's coats! I know I have some images that show collar,cuffs of an obviously different textile..
Thanks again
Vivian Murphy

http://www.themantuamaker.net