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  • Chocolate

    Received this history of chocolate from Godiva today. It is part of a timeline showing when the different forms of chocolate were invented. According to this, Hershey milk chocolate bars weren't invented for our time, but cocoa powder and dark chocolate bars were. That leads to more questions.

    How common and everyday was the use of chocolate?
    In what forms was it used?
    What recipes included it?
    What forms of chocolate were available to the soldiers?
    What chocolate treats would have been sent from home?
    Are there accounts of hot chocolate in either civilian or soldier resources?
    What other foods were just coming into popularity for our time and would have been novel enough to merit mention in letters or magazines?

    1815 - Dutch Treat

    Dutch chemist Johannes Van Houten begins experiments that result in the discovery of a new kind of powdered chocolate with a very low fat content - what we now know as cocoa. Van Houten's patented process involves the use of alkaline salts to treat the powdered chocolate and this "Dutching," as the technique is known, improves the chocolate's ability to dissolve in warm water and makes it darker in color and milder in flavor. Van Houten also builds a hydraulic press that makes possible for the first time mass production of chocolate both in an easy-to-use powdered form and in solid form.

    1819 - The Swiss Get The Hang Of It

    One hundred twenty two years after the mayor of Zurich brought chocolate back with him from Brussels, the Swiss develop a knack for making chocolate and Francois Louis Cailler opens the first Swiss chocolate factory on Lake Geneva. Not to be outdone, six years later Philippe Suchard builds his own machines, including the world's first chocolate mixer, and starts making his own confections.

    1847 - A New Taste Sensation

    If J.S. Fry & Sons of Bristol, founded in 1728, is not the oldest chocolate factory in England, it certainly is its most enduring and innovative. In fact, one son, Joseph, had the ingenuity to purchase and install a steam engine in his factory in 1789 soon after Watt invented the machine. A grandson, Francis, and a great grandson, another Joseph, carry on the tradition of innovation by adopting Van Houten's process and press and discovering a way to combine cocoa powder, sugar and cocoa butter to make the first real chocolate bars.

    1879 - Milking The Process

    Once they get started, the Swiss quickly show the world just how much they love their chocolate. They are the first to add powdered milk to the process and they refine the chocolate making art by introducing a "conching" machine that gives chocolate confections a smooth, creamy texture.

    1895 - Now Everybody Can Have Some

    America's love affair with chocolate heats up when Milton S. Hershey sells his first Hershey Bar in Pennsylvania using modern, mass-production techniques that make the product less expensive and, thus, available for mass consumption.

  • #2
    Re: Chocolate

    Hello Kathy,

    By far the most frequent chocolate recipe in period cookbooks that I have found is for hot chocolate, called simply "chocolate." A detailed description is found in "The American Frugal Housewife" by Mrs. Lydia Maria Child, 1833. Pg. 83-4:

    “CHOCOLATE. Many people boil chocolate in a coffee-pot; but I think it is better to boil it in a skillet, or something open. A piece of chocolate about as big as a dollar is the usual quantity for a quart of water; but some put in more, and some less[.] When it boils, pour in as much milk as you like and let them boil together three or four minutes. It is much richer with the milk boiled in it. Put the sugar in either before or after, as you please. Nutmeg improves it. The chocolate should be scraped fine before it is put into the water.”

    A similar, though shorter, recipe is in "Beadle’s Dime Cook Book" by Mrs. Victor, 1863. Pg 66-7:

    “CHOCOLATE.—Scrape or cut down fine with a knife, the chocolate; pour upon it hot water; let it boil up; add an equal quantity of milk; when it comes to a boil the second time, it is done.”

    These two books are written with a view toward practicality and economy, and this is the only chocolate recipe they contain, with the addition of a hot cocoa recipe in "Beadle's" cookbook.

    Other period chocolate recipes exist, such as an 1864 recipe for biscuits glazed with chocolate and an 1846 cookbook with chocolate pudding, chocolate blanc-mange, chocolate cream, chocolate ice cream, and chocolate cake.

    An excellent online resource is "Feeding America: The Historic American Cookbook Project" at http://digital.lib.msu.edu/cookbooks/index.cfm .
    The site's search engine (though not up for all cookbooks) will let you search specifically for chocolate. Many more chocolate recipes are post-war than antebellum or 1860s in this collection of cookbooks, and I suspect that is true overall.

    Chocolate candy recipes can be found on the website in Eleanor Parkinson's "The Complete Confectioner, Pastry-Cook And Baker", published in 1864. It is a specialty cookbook, quite unlike the family-style books "American Frugal Housewife" or "Beadle's" cookbook.

    "Cracker-bonbons" are listed among the suggested refreshments in the 1868 "Beadle's Dime Ball-Room Companion," but the only bonbon recipe I have found was from 1896, and made of fondant instead of chocolate.

    The above is with a view to using chocolate in the home. The timeline you found on chocolate manufacturing is very interesting, and I would be curious to see how soon those developments made their way into the American candy industry. A couple more chocolate milestones are found in "The Science of Chocolate", by Stephen T. Beckett, 2000:

    "In 1880 Rodolphe Lindt, in his factory in Berne in Switzerland, invented a machine which produced a smoother, better tasting chocolate. This was known as a conche, because its shape was similar to that of the shell with that name" (4).

    "The first white chocolate was made in 1930. It was made from sugar, milk powder, and cocoa butter" (6).

    Did you have Godiva chocolates for Valentine's Day? I received Lindt. :-)

    Kira Sanscrainte
    "History is not history unless it is the truth."—A. Lincoln

    "Always do right. This will gratify some people, and astonish the rest."—Mark Twain

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Chocolate

      Originally posted by KKS
      "The first white chocolate was made in 1930. It was made from sugar, milk powder, and cocoa butter" (6).
      Admittedly this is a British author, and I've not seen it mentioned elsewhere in the period, so I'd hardly call it common, but...

      White Chocolate. White sugar 3 lb., rice flour 27 1/2 oz., English or Indian arrow-root 8 oz., tincture of vanilla 1/2 oz., butter of cacao 8 oz., powdered gum Arabic 4 oz.; form a paste with boiling water, and put it into moulds.
      (From The Druggist's General Receipt Book by Henry Beasley, Philadelphia, Lindsay and Blakiston, 1857)
      Hank Trent
      hanktrent@voyager.net
      Hank Trent

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      • #4
        Re: Chocolate

        That is good to know. I just checked the book, and that particular passage is not footnoted. It also states, "The preserving qualities of the cocoa anti-oxidants are mainly in the dark cocoa material. This means that white chocolate does not keep as well as milk chocolate, and also that it should be kept in a non-transparent wrapper, as light will speed up the decomposition of milk fat" (Beckett 6).
        If that is the case, I'm wondering if it could be referring to commercially sold chocolate. Perhaps faster shipping methods and better means of storage needed to be developed before it could be sold in quantity? However, more than 70 years seems a long time for it to be in existence before manufactured by companies, so the book may just be wrong here.

        Thanks for the information!
        Kira Sanscrainte
        "History is not history unless it is the truth."—A. Lincoln

        "Always do right. This will gratify some people, and astonish the rest."—Mark Twain

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Chocolate

          How common and everyday was the use of chocolate?
          In what forms was it used?
          What recipes included it?
          What forms of chocolate were available to the soldiers?
          What chocolate treats would have been sent from home?
          Are there accounts of hot chocolate in either civilian or soldier resources?
          What other foods were just coming into popularity for our time and would have been novel enough to merit mention in letters or magazines?

          Ladies-

          My experience here in the Southwest has brought me into contact with Mexican-style chocolate. It is a combination of chocolate, sugar, almonds and cinnamon all ground together and let harden into cakes. It has been around at least as long as the Spanish Invasion of Mexico by the Spanish under Cortez meaning that the Aztecs made use of it. I believe the only ingredient added as a concession to the invaders was the use of sugar to offset the bitterness of the native product.
          That is for those of you doubting the accuracy of the Mexicans having this product in the 19th Century.... [Yep, there are some types like that]

          For those of us troops here in the Southwest, chocolate is used in recipes that have sources from the Hispanic community that lived here.
          Most recipes I've encountered are for hot chocolate and a rare few desserts. I don't think troops had much access to the product out here. It would have definitely be something purchased in a town or bought or taken from a more well-to-do family. As much as I've been able to surmise, chocolate was not common in any form as candy. Perhaps a special occasion would have it made into fudge but that is nearly it.
          A soldier might have gotten it as a care package offering only if his family had some candy-making ability or access. Hot chocolate was far more popular and had several ways of being made. I think that was about the extent most soldiers would've seen chocolate [if at all] as it was the province of ladies and the higher classes.

          If you would wish to try Mexican chocolate I'd recommend Abuelita, Ibarra or El Popular. I've made an excellent batch of brownies with Mexican chocolate for modern consumption but have not had occasion to use it strictly in a historical context. I hope to soon change that being the Company cook I am for the artillery units that I belong to.

          Respectfully,

          Pvt. Rob Burchardt
          Denver City, Colorado Territory

          Comment

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