Correct Term - Polished cotton?

[MrsArmstrong]

Is polished cotton the correct term used during the period? Doing a search I found little but when I searched for "chintz dress" there are a number of sources. It is my understanding chintz is a cotton that has a sheen.

http://books.google.com/books?as_q=&num=10&lr=&as_brr=0&btnG=Google+Search&as_epq=chintz+dress&as_oq=&as_eq=&as_brr=0&as_pt=ALLTYPES&lr=&as_vt=&as_auth=&as_pub=&as_sub=&as_drrb_is=b&as_minm_is=0&as_miny_is=&as_maxm_is=0&as_maxy_is=1865&as_isbn=&as_issn=

Susan Armstrong

[Hank Trent]

Re: Correct Term - Polished cotton?

It is my understanding chintz is a cotton that has a sheen.

There was a big discussion about this back when I worked at Conner Prairie. There seemed to be a lack of period evidence to show that chintz by definition had a polished/glazed surface. Period definitions seem to emphasize the pattern more. For example:

Chintz, a variety of print in which the figure has at least five different colours. Chintzes often possess great beauty of design and richness of colour.
Chintz-Pattern, any thing having a running or fancy pattern of divers colours, as cottons, paper-hangings, &c. Source.

Chintz. A peculiar pattern upon printed calicos, in which flowers and other devices are printed in five or six different colours, upon white and coloured grounds. A good chintz pattern in fast colours is one of the most surprising and difficult efforts of the art. Source.

However, "glazed" seems to be a common period synonym for what we call "polished," and one can find references to "glazed chintz" in the period.

So the question is, was all chintz by definition glazed in the period? Or was all chintz by definition printed with a certain look of pattern and colors in the period, while some of it was also glazed but some not?

Hank Trent
hanktrent@gmail.com

[VMurphy]

Re: Correct Term - Polished cotton?

Hank... I agree, and think your clerifications are very good. Chintz is a pattern/manner of printing on cloth. The various prints of later in the center, primarily home decor, both wall paper and on fabric were "chintzes". Earlier in the century, to my knowledge the chintz patterns were often of an oriental persuasion???
The chintz patterns could be printed on a wide variety of textiles.

Vivian Murphy

[MrsArmstrong]

Re: Correct Term - Polished cotton?

What were solid cotton fabrics called that have a sheen/polish/shine/glace? Are there specific names?
I have a cdv of a woman with a very large plain half apron (not a fancy tea/ladies apron) but utilitarian. It was suggested the apron was a solid chintz. Now this can be a case of miss identifying a term we understand today polished/chintz. When doing research using a term we use/understand today doesn't help when searching through period sources.
Susan Armstrong

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Correct Term - Polished cotton?

I'd look for "glazed" or "glace'" in addition to "polished". One fabric that could be seen as a utility apron is "brown holland"--a sort of glazed linen, to my understanding.

[MrsArmstrong]

Re: Correct Term - Polished cotton?

Thanks,
I found a number of references for chintz aprons and linen aprons...

The Sanitary Reporter, January 1864,
pg 122
“For two and a half years, while we have been filling the boxes and forwarding them, enrolling ourselves as workers of the order of the “brown-linen apron, …”

http://books.google.com/books?id=Z4gCAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA122&dq=%22linen+apron%22&lr=&as_drrb_is=b&as_minm_is=0&as_miny_is=1860&as_maxm_is=0&as_maxy_is=1865&num=100&as_brr=0#v=onepage&q=%22linen%20apron%22&f=false

Susan Armstrong