collars on dresses

[Angel of Mercy]

I have a dress that I made years ago, a work dress. And I made it with a stand-up collar, are they correct? Any info would be great.

[Kate Vogel]

Re: collars on dresses

Krystin,

Is your collar permanently attached to your dress and made out of the same fabric as your dress? If so, the only time I've seen that on an original was on a cotton/wool blend wrapper with a lay-down collar appliqued with velvet diamonds, shaped much like the common detachable white cotton collar seen in CDVs. However, I've only examined a few dozen originals, while several of the women who frequent this forum have examined hundreds. Stand up collars are generally seen during later years, when collars started to funnel up a bit more on the neck instead of the jewel neckline that is so indicative of mid 19th century women's garments. Just my $.02.

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: collars on dresses

Krystin,

Small (usually 1/2"-3/4" high and never more than 1") standing collars, made of self-fabric and permanently attached to the dress, begin to appear with some frequency about mid-war and become increasingly popular as the years progress. I've found them on documented original dresses and photographs as early as mid-1862; but they are most common from mid-late 1863 and on.

Dresses made with this collar are usually worn with a detachable white standing collar; the white collar protrudes about 1/8" - 1/4" above the self fabric collar. Again, the overall width of both collars is not more than 1". From experience, a detachable collar is almost mandatory if you have any hopes of keeping the neckline of the dress clean.

Slightly off-topic: I've seen the phrase "when collars funnel up a bit on the neckline" repeated on several lists. I am concerned that it is becoming another part of our "standard terminology" when it does not truly reflect the style and construction used during the period. Further, I have yet to find a similar phrase or description in any primary source from the period. In the lexicon of fashion terminology and dressmaking techniques a "funnel neckline" is a high neckline cut in one piece with the bodice sections of the dress; the collar is not cut separately and there is no seam joining the collar to the garment. This style was popular during the 1930s and again in the early 1960s, but (to the best of my knowledge and research) did not exist during the 19th century. It would be more correct and give a truer reflection of the change in styles and dressmaking techniques of the period to refer to the transition as "changing from a round neckline at the base of the neck (a "jewel" neckline in modern terminology) to a small standing collar."

Nit-picking? Yes. :) But using the correct terms and descriptions for fashion and dressmaking techniques is one of those things I'm really anal-retentive about; and I hate to see information that is incorrect or not-quite-correct become established fact. (If only we had done whatever was necessary to prohibit the use of the term "camp dress" when it first appeared several years ago!) Ok - bring on the rotten vegetables! :)

[Kate Vogel]

Re: collars on dresses

Carolann,

Absolutely no rotten vegetables are necessary. :) Thanks for the correction.

[Angel of Mercy]

Re: collars on dresses

Katie ,

The collar is attached to the dress permanaently and of the same fabric as the dress. I have another question...were all collars on dresses white? I mean were some made of solid colors or of the same material? Fold down collars of course. Thank You.

[Angel of Mercy]

Re: collars on dresses

Carolann,
Thank you. The reason I ask is because not only do I want to be correct, but I am portraying a cook and laundress at Fort Delaware State Park, and it will be the year 1864. So, maybe my dress will be alright? oh, and I asked Katie the same question I'm going to ask you, if you don't mind. But, were there any solid colored or same material folded collars on dresses? Thanks again!

[KKS]

Re: collars on dresses

"Who Wore What" by Juanita Leisch has some good pictures of stand-up collars on pages 32-4. It also states that separate, detachable collars (apparently both stand-up and lay-down styles) were made of white or very light-colored fabrics that could easily be washed and starched well.

I have found the book invaluable for answering many sewing and style questions, and it is filled with drawings as well as period photographs, many of which are enlarged.

Kira Sanscrainte

[Angel of Mercy]

Re: collars on dresses

Kira,
Thank you, I'll take a look in the book.

[Kate Vogel]

Re: collars on dresses

Krystin,

Since you are portraying a cook, another option is a neck kerchief. I'm not quite sure how to upload pictures onto the forum yet as I am rather technologically stupid, so I sent a CDV of a woman wearing one to your yahoo account.

It'll disguise your high collar if you want it to, it can be used to wipe sweat away from your forehead, won't appear as dirty as quickly as a snippet of a collar, and doesn't need to be removed and have another collar rebasted in order to maintain that "clean, fresh" appearance we all aspire to. Also, neck kerchiefs can be untied and dampened in cold water for a nice refresher that aids in keeping you from overheating. They're easy to make too; it's just a square of fabric hand hemmed and folded into a triangle. It won't replace a nice, crisp white collar for visiting, receiving guests, or other "nicer" affairs, but, it might prove to be handy for doing a hard, working impression.

[Angel of Mercy]

Re: collars on dresses

Katie,
Thank you yet again.

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: collars on dresses

Carolann,
Thank you. The reason I ask is because not only do I want to be correct, but I am portraying a cook and laundress at Fort Delaware State Park, and it will be the year 1864. So, maybe my dress will be alright? oh, and I asked Katie the same question I'm going to ask you, if you don't mind. But, were there any solid colored or same material folded collars on dresses? Thanks again!

I prefer not to give blanket approval to a garment without examining it or seeing it in a photo, but a small standing collar would be appropriate on an 1864 dress.

I've never seen a flat collar made from self-fabric or a non-white fabric that was part of the original construction on an original garment. Unfortunately, later alterations to create theatrical and Halloween costumes commit all sorts of sins against original garments, including adding colored collars.

[MissMaggie]

Re: collars on dresses

Has anyone come across anything that would indicate that a kercheif could be worn when there is a white collar also on the dress? I'm thinking it would serve the same purpose of turning your skirt back when working inside the home. When company shows up unexpectedly you could just let down your skirt and take off the kercheif leaving your dress to look at least mostly presentable.

[ElizabethClark]

Re: collars on dresses

I haven't come across anything to that effect, Maggie... have others?

Good discussion on collars and alternatives there-to, everyone!