Civilian Overshirts?

[jigadier brindle]

Chums,

I'm curious if anyone has any information, or documentation to offer in regard to the use of overshirts in varying professions prior to, and during our period of interest. I'm especially interested in the use of cotton jean in such shirts, and what social class, and profession they might find some limited usage in. If anyone could direct me to any quality sources of information on this topic I would be much obliged, however I have checked through a few of the obvious sources (Thought's on Men's Shirts in America... etc. ).



-Nicholas Redding

[Drygoods]

Re: Civilian Overshirts?

Overshirts were probably the most worn but sadly, currently underrepresented garment of the CW era. Overshirts were commonly worn for a variety of different labors and were seen during the entire decade of the 1850s. Images of CA gold miners are consistant proof that they were pretty much the same style but could be made in different colors. Both the Arabia and Bertrand had them as part of their cargo. Red, blue, and grey are common colors, however, all that I know of have been kersey wool. Men's clothing stores in NY were selling these shirts through catalogue sales all across the country.

On September 10, 1862 Sarah Morgan made this note in her journal:
"Lilly undertook a purple merino, and I took a dark blue one. We finished in good time, and their appearance recompensed us for our trouble. Lilly's was trimmed with folds of blue from mine, around the collar, cuffs, pockets, and down the front band; while mine was pronounced a chef d'oeuvre, trimmed with bias folds of tiny red and black plaid. With their fresh colors, and shining pearl buttons, they were really very pretty." Here is a descritpion of another shirt that she made; "It is a dark purple merino. The bosom I tucked with pleats a quarter of an inch deep, all the way up to the collar, and stitched a narrow crimson silk braid up the centre to hold it in its place. Around the collar, cuffs, pockets, and band down the front, the red cord runs, forming a charming contrast to the dark foundation. Indeed I devoted the sole article the Yankees let fall from my two workboxes--a bunch of soutache-- to the work. Large white pearl buttons completed the description, and my shirt is really as quiet, subdued, and pretty a one as I ever saw. I should first hear the opinion of the owner, though. If he does not agree with all the others, I shall say he has no taste."

This is very interesting although I doubt that you could convince a CW reenactor today to wear a dark purple overshirt with red trim. People of the 19th Century were not afraid of wearing color. I've made several of these shirts myself in a variety of colors and trims and they do look marvelous. I've been working on an article about these garments for several years and hope to complete it shortly. Good luck with your search, email me if you need more information.

Mfr,
Judith Peebles

[TeamsterPhil]

Re: Civilian Overshirts?

If you visit the WIG website and look at the pictures from the Ft Gaines event, you'll see a picture of one of the most obnoxious pink overshirts you have ever seen. It is cochineal dyed domet flannel - with plaid trim. The picture does not do justice to the true color.

http://www.westernindependentgrays.org/images.html

Phil Campbell