Natural dyeing or weaving

[Richmond Depot]

Was curious if anyone else out there is into natural dying and weaving their own materials. I just bought a loom. :)

[JimKindred]

Re: Natural dyeing or weaving

Scott,

I good number of people in 18th century reenacting are into weaving and natural dyes. I can put you in contact with some if you like.

[Spinster]

Re: Natural dyeing or weaving

Yessir.

4 looms, 5 spinning wheels, 22 pounds of washed and combed romney fleece, 20 pounds assorted dyestuffs and mordant, 30 pounds skeined and scoured yarn ready to be dyed, 12 shawl kits, 4 pounds finished knitted goods, 15 pounds period dyed yarn skeined and packaged to ship today.....

Can you tell I just took inventory? And that's just what's piled up in the downstairs of the house......

Working up the courage to see what's in the attic....

[Jenna N.]

Re: Natural dyeing or weaving

Great! What advice would those of you with natural dyeing experience give to those of us who are new to it? Are there particular dyes/mordants that are easier or more difficult to work with? What are the best for someone just wanting to dye small quantities of yarn at home for self-use?

Thanks,
Jenna Neilsen

[Spinster]

Re: Natural dyeing or weaving

My favorite book on the subject is Jim Liles "The Art and Craft of Natural Dyeing" available from http://www.earthguild.com, along with a variety of interesting dyestuffs and instructions for the beginner and professional alike. You'll have to pick and choose though--not all natural dyes are CW period dyes. Dr. Liles was a long-time Rev War reenactor--a tiny little man in a very RED hand dyed British "redcoat" uniform. He researched a number of historical dye receipts, and converted them to one pound recipies with modern chemical terms.

While his book has such esoteric formulas as dyes made with sulfuric acid, and other mordants that require careful handling, it also has the normal stuff. All mordants should be handled carefully, often with masks and skin protection. For public demonstrations, we use potassium alum, as produces a bright clear color with little danger to the dyer and none to the spectator.

[JimKindred]

Re: Natural dyeing or weaving

Another good book is "The Dyer's Companion" by Elijah Bemiss. Written in 1815, it is a good source of information. The copy I have was published in 1974 by Dover Publications.

[Spinster]

Re: Natural dyeing or weaving

The Dover published Bemiss book is a fine one as well---though it needs careful reading and reference to deal with the changes in the names of various chemicals, and deals in larger quanities of dyestuffs. It does have a fine glossary that translates period chemicals into modern chemicals. And its a fine reference to aid in ascertaining which natural dyes are also period approrpriate for CW.

If memory serves me correctly (and being too lazy to dig the book out) this is also the volume that instructs one to grind indigo by placing it in a large round bottom kettle along with a 12 pound cannon ball, tieing paper across the top and rolling the kettle until the indigo is ground fine, then adding sulfuric acid to reduce the indigo.

I count that instruction as I do sharp knives, one of those things its just not wise for me to have...... ;)

[JimKindred]

Re: Natural dyeing or weaving

"......large round bottom kettle along with a 12 pound cannon ball....."

I would recommend using solid shot as the only danger from that is dropping it on your foot. :wink_smil

[hardeesboy]

Re: Natural dyeing or weaving

While I am definately not a scholar of this subject, I have found a few articles in Ms. Vicki Bett's collection:


BELLVILLE [TX] COUNTRYMAN, October 11, 1862, p. 2, c. 3
Recipe for Dying Slate Color.—Equal portions of the inside bark of sassafras and willow, boiled in a brass kettle; strain the decoction from the bark, and add to two gallons of the fluid a small table spoonful of copperas, the same of alum, or a small table spoonful of copperas, the same of alum, or a small portion of the latter. [sic?] Have the wool well scoured, and taken out of a clean soapsuds; wring it dry and put it into the dye, let it boil a short time, raising it out to get air frequently; dry it and then wash it in suds until quite cleansed from the smell of dye. It is a permanent color, and does not take a great quantity of the bark above names; it is richer than almost any other bark I have ever used.
The black jack will dye a good slate color, prepared in the same way, but not so permanent a color as the other.

SAVANNAH [GA] REPUBLICAN, November 3, 1862, p. 1, c. 4
To Dye Wool Yarn a Durable Black Without Copperas.—Place in your kettle a layer of Walnut leaves, then a layer of yarn, then a layer of leaves and another of yarn, and so on till the kettle is full, pour on water till all is covered, and boil all day. The next morning pour off the liquor into another vessel, and put fresh leaves with the yarn in layers as before and pour the same liquor over it and boil again all day. Then hang the yarn in the air a few days after which wash it, and it will be a fine black.
The Walnut leaves should be gathered in the autumn, just as they begin to fall from the trees.

MOBILE REGISTER AND ADVERTISER, November 12, 1862, p. 1, c. 7
Confederate Dye.—To make a Beautiful Blue.—Take alder berries, mash them and press out the juice; to two gallons of juice add about one ounce of copperas and two ounces of alum. Dip the thread in this thoroughly, and air it, and the dye is set.

SAVANNAH [GA] REPUBLICAN, December 10, 1862, p. 1, c. 5
Substitute for Copperas.—The following is a recipe which answers every purpose in dyeing where copperas is used in setting colors, or for dying copperas color: Half pint vinegar, half pint syrup or molasses, three gallons of water. Put the above into an iron pot with nails or other rusty iron, and let it stand twenty days. It is of no use to buy copperas for dyeing at one dollar per pound while this will answer every purpose.