Trowsers style and patterns?

[Pvt.S.D.Swart]

Okay, first off I know little to nothing when it comes to civilian clothing. That said, I bought a nifty pair of window pane wool pants. I am removing the machine stitching in certain areas, and resewing by hand, including buttonholes. I noticed these pants have no split back, nor any adjusters. Is this a period style or pattern? Or should I make the split, and the adjusters for these trowsers.

Thank you,
Pvt. Shawn D. Swart
6th Regt. Ky. Vol's Co. C. CSA / 13th Regt. Ky. Co. D. USA

[crabby]

Re: Trowsers style and patterns?

From the scant information provided, I do not think anyone can answer your question. If you give more specific details or better yet some photos, you will have a better chance of a response.

[Pvt.S.D.Swart]

Re: Trowsers style and patterns?

Maybe I'm just a poor communcator.

Every pair of trowser I have seen have a split back on the rear of the trowsers. Normally either a hole on each side of the split to tie the sides together if needed, or a cloth strap of the same material on each side of the split with a buckle adjuster to bring them together if needed.

The pair I have have no split in the back, like a pair of modern pants. I was asking if anyone has seen that style, or was that a mistake that I need to correct when I redo the trowsers?

Shawn Swart, and by the way, love the items you sent to me!

[SheZab]

Re: Trowsers style and patterns?

If you could post some pictures that would help. It sounds to me like a pair of later Victorian pants. By late 1880s early 1890s the split in the back of trousers were becoming less and less fashionable as the style changed. Of course this was prevelant mostly in the most fashionable levels of society so say bankers and lawyers would have been wearing trousers such as these:




For Civil War era I'm afraid they aren't appropriate. But that doesn't mean you can't use them for a very dashing later Victorian impression.

-Rachel Zaborowski

[SheZab]

Re: Trowsers style and patterns?

Also if they are pleated down the center front like modern dress trousers that is wrong as well.

That thought occured to me late last night.

[Silas]

Re: Trowsers style and patterns?

For all the time and effort you are going to put into these pants to "make them right," you're still going to have a pair of pants cut from a likely wrong pattern and likely wrong fabric. Since you don't seem to be afraid of a little sewing, why don't you purchase a correct pattern and correct wool to sew a correct pair of pants?

[Shockoe Hill Cats]

Re: Trowsers style and patterns?

Also if they are pleated down the center front like modern dress trousers that is wrong as well.

What, do you mean like this?

[Silas]

Re: Trowsers style and patterns?

Sorry to be off topic, but that's a great photo. Judging from the curve of the buttons of that frock, that soldier really has a "Robin Red Breast" coat. It's broad at the breast and narrow at the waist. I'm about to make another frock coat, and the shape of this frock really caught my eye.

As far as places for patterns, should the question be asked, look below for "similar threads." I count four thread about patterns. I looked at the two threads with multiple posts. Each similar answers despite the threads being commenced four years apart. Probably be the same answers today.

[SheZab]

Re: Trowsers style and patterns?

Those trousers in the photo were probably ironed to have the crease, or are creased from hanging. That is fine. I'm talking about actual pleats like these.



You can see in the photo above that there is no actual pleating in the period pants (the darted points of gathered fabric), it lays flat along the upper thigh. Turn of the century and modern men's pants have actual pleats for the permenant pressed look.

This is a good example of the entire pant leg.



And another example where you can see the front crease on the knee down on the near leg and see it better on the far leg, but clearly see there are no pleats.



Does that explain it a little better?

I apologize for not being clear.

[Elaine Kessinger]

Re: Trowsers style and patterns?

Most of us will be agreeing with Mr. Tackitt. Invest your money in correct patterns and materials from the start, rather than a slapped-together make-do.

So... back yoke, back split, adjustable tabs with buckle, suspender buttons, and flat fronts are in... pockets in the bumm, pleated-fronts, and belt loops are out... and a picture is better than verbal descriptions subject to reader's interpretation.

[Shockoe Hill Cats]

Re: Trowsers style and patterns?

You can see in the photo above that there is no actual pleating in the period pants (the darted points of gathered fabric), it lays flat along the upper thigh. Turn of the century and modern men's pants have actual pleats for the permenant pressed look.

Mrs. Zaborowski:

Oh, I see what you mean. Yeah, the funny thing is that of the many 1860s photographs that I've looked at, most men's trousers don't appear to be lying flat. They always appear to have swaths of fabric unintentionally gathered up (like the images you posted). I would go as far to suggest that such pants were "ready-made" and not custom-tailored. Obviously, the 1860s was a time when those type of goods were becoming self-stocked items. But in the 1840-50s, you can clearly see how form-fitting and snug men's trousers fit.

But you're right, definitely no pleats like you previously mentioned.

[SheZab]

Re: Trowsers style and patterns?

Mr. Spellman,

You are absolutely correct about the ready mades!

And a fun fact about the form fitting pants of the late 18th and early 19th century, because the exentuated a man's leg, some would add padding to their calf area to help fill it out! Certainly not a problem with 1860s trousers!!