Request advice on gentlemen’s frock coats

[Victor Sarna]

Good Folk,

I need your advice on gentlemen’s frock coats. After recently purchasing a nice linen suit of clothes, I hope to do a wee bit more civilian living history in the future. In my research I am down to two questions. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

1. What is the correct length of a gentlemen’s frock coat of our period, just above the knee or?

2. Would it be appropriate to have matching cuff buttons on a linen coat or leave them plain?

Sincerely,

Victor

[Chris Fisher]

Re: Request advice on gentlemen’s frock coats

Frock coats vary in length based on the owners preference. I might suggest googling Devere's "The Tailors Guide" its online and there are several lithographs showing different styles and types of gentlemens clothing.
The Complete Guide to Practical Cutting by Edward Minister and Son ISBN 0-914046-17-9 is another reference.
Dare I say it but the Citizens Companion published a special edition entitled Back to BasicII Fashions for men and children of the 1860's which is a wonderful resource on putting it all togeather.
The LOC website has lots of images where you can browse and discover things for yourself.
Another place to learn such things is the Sewing Acedemy by Ms. Elizabeth Clark.

[Elaine Kessinger]

Re: Request advice on gentlemen’s frock coats

Sir-
As Mr. Fisher suggests, the exact length will vary with fashion, what looks well on the particular gent, and the desires of the particular gent. The 3/4 between waist and knee that is used for issue military frocks works as a starting point.

As for sleeve buttons on a linen frock coat, they aren't always seen. When they are seen, they should match in style the front ones, only be smaller. Linen sack coats frequently don't have sleeve buttons.

Thanks for asking questions to become an informed customer. :-)

Wool frock coats will almost always have sleeve buttons and usually functional ones.

Note that I have been firmly informed by persons in the know that this is true of earlier wool frock coats, but by the 1860s (assuming the gentleman wants the latest in fashion details and isn't insisting of his tailor a convenience found on earlier styles) the sleeve buttons had moved to decorative, non-functioning status or disappeared entirely.

[Victor Sarna]

Re: Request advice on gentlemen’s frock coats

Mr. Fisher and Madam Kessinger,

Thank you both so very much for your informative help. Sir, you do point out correctly that I have more research to do and I shall endeavor to do so. And Ma’am, you so graciously and kindly did answer my questions. After many, many years of re-enacting/living history I find myself unable to fully recover from wounding in Iraq and the rigors of campaigning continue to take their toll. Therefore, in the future I must transition to more of a civilian role and I shall venture to do so as authentically as possible.

I shall remain your most humble and obedient servant,

Victor Sarna