Surviving civilian Jean cloth frock coats?

[GreencoatCross]

Re: Surviving civilian Jean cloth frock coats?

http://historical.ha.com/c/item.zx?saleNo=6074&lotNo=52144

[Ian McWherter]

Re: Surviving civilian Jean cloth frock coats?

Thanks for sharing that, neat. Such an outdated coat too, very 1840s. Wonder if there's any additional background information to go with the coat, was it an old coat from home, or something newly made in a very old fashion? Trousers also have a back pocket.

One thing is sure, nice jean. Again, something that's not easy to find a reproduction of.

[Matthew Semple]

Re: Surviving civilian Jean cloth frock coats?

Many years ago...

The MoC had a suit of clothes on display that was made of cassimere. Looked like quality tailoring and construction, as I recall. I believe it was made by a slave for... ? Could have been his "master"... not sure.

...but, its a place to start.

Not sure if it is exactly what you're looking for, but it is a civilian suit made of a wool-cotton blend. More coarse than satinet, but finer than jeans... perhaps.

Good luck!

I recall this exact jacket. I made note of it because it belonged to Jefferson Davis.

[VMurphy]

Re: Surviving civilian Jean cloth frock coats?

In trying to continually learn, I am enjoying this thread regarding the frocks made of unusual fabrics. Am I correct that the full suit made on the plantation from cotton grown there is an extremely unusual garment and not one to be reproduced freely?
I often find a piece of wool that has cotton in it, and also a silk/wool blend that would make wonderful civililain clothing. It shows up on line fairly frequently.
Would you gentelmen be so kind as to share other info you might have on more common blends for textiles for gentlemen's civilian clothing?
I purely do understand the feeling of being constantly on the look for correct textiles. Cashamere was also used for women's winter clothing and it's i seldom found. The few pieces I have found were unfortunately way out of reach of most ladies financial realm :(
REgards
Vivian Murphy

[VMurphy]

Re: Surviving civilian Jean cloth frock coats?

Ian...thank you so much for your explanations of the period textiles. When one knows the difference and knows the hand and feel of fine textiles, it's quite another thing to give a good description to someone else who might not be as well acquainted with textiles. I'd love to see your original frocks. I've had the opportunity to see several originals similar to what you mention, but of course usually in a situation where one isn't allowed to touch :(

Regards
Vivian MUrphy

[Shockoe Hill Cats]

Re: Surviving civilian Jean cloth frock coats?

The MoC had a suit of clothes on display that was made of cassimere. Looked like quality tailoring and construction, as I recall. I believe it was made by a slave for... ? Could have been his "master"... not sure.

This one?


A while ago, I was bored and wanted to see what civilian overcoats they had and this was one. Probably the most shabby, falling-apart garment among the lot (made of homespun jean cloth):

I recall this exact jacket. I made note of it because it belonged to Jefferson Davis.

I think you are getting it confused with this one, Davis's. Looks very similar but the construction and materials are significantly better:

I've read numerous descriptions in many more advertisements of fancy cassimeres, jeans, and other fabrics that have "spotted," "flecked,""Marbled," or "Mottled" patterns. Even came across a description of a fashionable man wearing a "tigerish" tweed.

Yeah, if you've ever read period ads the number of fabrics that sellers offered during the 1840-50s is astounding. See this one from the Statistical Gazetteer of the State of Virginia (1854) for Groshong, Tupman & Co. Clothiers:

"Fancy Cassimere Frocks and Vests", "Satinett Business Frocks", "Black Cassimere Vests"; "Pants of Mixed Doeskin, French Tri-Colored, Fancy American Cassimeres" and "Fine Blue Satinett".
(And overcoats of things I've never even heard of: Napoleon Beaver, Petersham, Black Pilot, Whitney, Lyon Skin, Reversille!)

And another from the Richmond City Directory (1856) offering a variety of garments for even the most "economical man" as Goodman advertises, "All articles warranted of the very best make from finest to lowest grades":

[Matthew Semple]

Re: Surviving civilian Jean cloth frock coats?

Jason,

Thanks for the post and pointing that out. I did get the two confused. My memory did not serve me well on this one. I guess that's why I keep having to write things down and have numerous binders reference and research material for most things.

Great pictures.

Matt