Clothing for yeomen farmers

[J.Whitley]

Ladies and gentlemen,

Excuse me if this has been discussed in the past, but I could find no mention of it, specifically, using the search function. I'm interested in building a quality civilian impression, the impression being that of a young, reasonably prosperous yeoman farmer in the south c. 1860. I'm interested in photographs, period references, or advice.

From what I've seen so far, it seems that a frock coat, vest, trousers, and pleated-front shirt would be fairly universal among the middle class of the period. Would the garments of this period be almost entirely confined to black, as in the 1860s proper? Or would the more varied colors of the 1850s still hold sway? Is a low-crowned hat acceptable? How about below-the-knee boots?

Thanks very much for your time and consideration,

[Doughboy]

Re: Clothing for yeomen farmers

It has been my understanding that yeomen farmers did not own slaves, or very few making them much more likely to work their own land so that your description of their dress would be pretty much their Sunday best, not their everyday wear. I guess it would depend on what aspect of Yeoman life you are trying to protray

[Andrew Kasmar]

Re: Clothing for yeomen farmers

From what I have seen in paintings, fashion plates, photos, and original garments, it would appear that many colors were available for everyday wear. Colors that I have seen include: black, dark blue, royal blue, green, light green, tan, brown (all shades), grey, and some very limited window pane. The fabrics used in these coats are as equally varied, with some being made from kesery, broadcloth, corduroy, fine jean cloth, tweed, and etc. The qualities of tailoring and construction also vary, but they appear to be fairly well constructed.

Painting of farmers, from the mid-19th century, often show men in double and single breasted frocks, white shirts, cravats, and waistcoats. . . many in different colors and fashions. Most of these paintings come from the 1830's-1850's (so somewhat dated to the period at hand). It should be noted that these images are of men working, and yet they still appear to be fairly well dressed. It should also be noted that the clothing is often worn, with small patches, fraying edges, and small holes. This is confirmed by a number of images of "common people" that show similar wear in studio and "everyday" images.

While not from the exact timeframe you are looking for, I have attached a number of images that might be helpful to developing your impression.

The state you are living in might also have an effect on the look of the citizens. For instance Missourians did not look or dress the same as Georgians. But even within a state there are variations, some of the lower counties of Georgia had a rougher appearance than those that lived closer to the coast or further north.

As to the boots, some images and paintings show such boots. . . how common I do not know.

This is a basic overview and I shall let those with more knowledge on the subject post more detailed information.

All the best,

[J. Donaldson]

Re: Clothing for yeomen farmers

To build on Chris's point, there's an important difference between what you state in your title and the impression you describe as middle class. While yeoman ideology in the South describes the land owning, independent middling farmer, the bastion of Jacksonian democracy, historians have used the term yeoman to describe those small land owners who existed between market and sustenance production. While of a higher station and economic base than tenant farmers and poor whites, the yeoman was also squeezed from above by the planter class. I would not consider these people to be an economic middle class, save in the sense that they represented a a middle rung on the economic and land-owning ladder model. Some crops were produced for home consumption, some for the market, and things were very tight. While I am not an expert on fashion, from my understanding, as Chris said, the clothes you describe probably represent the court day/wedding/church/funeral wardrobe for someone of this class. I would venture so far as to say that money was so tight for the yeomanry that your clothes might be a little behind the latest modes of fashion as well. A yeoman farm is one constantly on the verge every year, and any profit produced is returned to production, and not for fashion or the comforts of a home. While I don't have any primary documents to recommend that come to mind, Lacy K. Ford's "Origins of Southern Radicalism", Stephanie McCurry's "Masters of Smaller Worlds" and Steven Hahn's "The Roots of Southern Populism" are excellent works that provide an introduction to the nature of yeomanry in South Carolina, and may help you locate primary sources and other research materials to help you with your impression.

[Coatsy]

Re: Clothing for yeomen farmers

Bob and Andrew have really given a great perspective on how to approach this subject. I did want to add this fairly good link of William Sidney Mount paintings of the time period. Andrew posted a few already, but the link has a few others. Great stuff to look at, and ponder on.

http://b-womeninamericanhistory19.blogspot.com/2010/11/paintings-about-raising-processing.html

[Utley]

Re: Clothing for yeomen farmers

Don't go too much to the side of the dirt poor/make your own stuff side...this impression is one that is easy to get in a "ditch" on either side of the road... too fancy or too homemade. One example that I can think of is from Basil Armstrong Thomasson's diary, Yeoman Farmer, which is from NC in the 50's and 60's. He is too poor to own his own draft animals or wagon, because he always mentions borrowing these items from neighbors (remember it was a sense of community back then more so than now). BUT, he mentions buying ready made hats and vests and other clothing at the local store. Just something to think about!

[J.Whitley]

Re: Clothing for yeomen farmers

Gentlemen, thanks so much for your thoughts - and your links. Perhaps I should clarify my impression. My family and I come from a county in the NC piedmont that was largely settled by German Lutherans, and thus had a lower than average slave-holding rate: 21% of the population was unfree in 1860. My assumption (quite possibly dead wrong) is that, with fewer, less powerful planters, there would have been correspondingly more relatively successful middling farmers in this area.

[Elaine Kessinger]

Re: Clothing for yeomen farmers

Much of what your re-enacting wardrobe consists of will depend on what tasks you depict at the event you will attend.

If the events you attend are things like "market day," "in town on business," "church," "election day," "seeing the troops off," "hanging in the tavern on a Sat. evening" you will want the nicer garments strategically frayed and slightly out of date.

If, on the other hand, your events typically depict daily business of a farm interupted... you will want to choose the sturdy, hard-work clothes that your character doesn't mind getting dirty or mending rips.

If you want to create a re-enacting wardrobe that will enable you to attend the most events and be welcomed with an impression no matter the scenario... pull together a mix of fancier and sturdier pieces from which to choose. As civilians, we don't have the luxury of saying... "I only portray yeoman farmers." ...without severely limiting the events we can attend.

[jwoodli]

Re: Clothing for yeomen farmers

As with working farmers the nation over, reserve your best clothes for Sundays and social gatherings, and use the clothes that used to be your best clothes at work, coupled with a sturdy pair of boots. Wear them out, then buy a new set of 'best clothes', and the cycle continues, keeping your work clothes a few fashion seasons behind the times, and your best clothes conservatively with the fashion of the time. Yeoman farmers, as the definitions so adequately presented earlier suggest, could have and would have been able to afford two sets of clothing, else-wise descend the social ladder to landed 'white trash.'

[Utley]

Re: Clothing for yeomen farmers

If you are portraying an NC farmer, definitely get North Carolina Yeoman, by Basil Armstrong Thomasson. He was from your area and has some great details. It's 59 cents right now on Amazon!!