Bloomers

[Johan Steele]

NO, I won't wear them... so don't worry about that. However, my wife is trying to find an appropriate pattern so she can make herself a PEC set.

Any suggestions out there?

Thanks

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Bloomers or drawers?

Is your wife looking for a pattern for the undergarment (commonly called 'drawers' during this period)? If so, I recommend Past Patterns #706 Drawers pattern. The pattern has excellent drafting, sizing, written instructions and historical information.

If she's looking for a 'bloomer' outfit - a variation of reform dress that was also worn for gymnastics: there are some commercial patterns out there but I don't recommend any of them. They all have issues with drafting, sizing, and instructions (some more than others!). More importantly, they don't include the period construction details I've found on original garments of this type.

And she can always draft her own pattern, which was how it was done during the period. :)

[Johan Steele]

Re: Bloomers

Not the drawers... she's already got some of them... hehehehehe Um sorry. Any idea if anyone makes a pattern for the outfit? She needs a good drawing etc so she can draft the pattern. Any ideas where I could get one for her?

THanks

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Bloomers

I would recommend looking for engravings and photographs of the garments, and working from there. Most of the time, engravings will have some sort of accompanying description that can give some clues to construction.

(I'm going to pull this whole discussion up into the regular forum, because chatting more about Reform Dress will be fun....)

I've not researched gymnastic wear, but a cursory reading of descriptions and the way the fabric photographs in images would lead me to suggest a good fabric or two: light wool flannel, or fine wool broadcloth, most likely with a cotton lining.

Carolann, have you found the construction to be more in line with standard dressmaking practices (as to seam placement, finishes, etc) of the time? Or are there any tailoring influences?

[SteelCityZouave]

Re: Bloomers

I don't know much about dress reform, etc., but I have found a link on a link page that may help you out. It is all about bloomers and dress reform in the Victorian era. It is http://dressreform.tripod.com. You could probably also contact the webmaster. I hope that helps!

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Bloomers

I've not researched gymnastic wear, but a cursory reading of descriptions and the way the fabric photographs in images would lead me to suggest a good fabric or two: light wool flannel, or fine wool broadcloth, most likely with a cotton lining.

Carolann, have you found the construction to be more in line with standard dressmaking practices (as to seam placement, finishes, etc) of the time? Or are there any tailoring influences?

Eliizabeth -
You're right on target with fabric suggestions: a light or very lightweight wool flannel or wool broadcloth, with a lining in the bodice only. The construction follows basic dressmaking practices; no tailoring influences at all. Common trims are flat braids similar to soutache.

Basically, the 'dress' consists of a very loosely fitted gathered bodice - more akin to a Garibaldi shirt - gathered into a band at the waist. The lining is also gathered - not darted and fitted - but is not as full as the outer fabric. The front closures are usually functional buttons and buttonholes on both the lining and the facing (two sets of buttons to do up). The very full sleeves are unlined and gathered into a cuff or a band at the wrist. The full skirt may be gauged or pleated onto the bottom of the waistband, extends to the top of the calf, and is hemmed (no facing). The pants, described as Turkish trousers in one source, are cut very much like children's drawers: very full, unlined, gathered or pleated into a waistband that opens on both sides of the body, button and buttonhole closure on each opening, closed crotch seam, ankle-length legs gathered into a band at the bottom, the leg band may or may not have an opening. Other variations I've seen have included a yoked bodice, an unlined bodice, bodice flat lined and treated as one layer with a single closure, coat sleeves, and contrasting fabric trim on the bodice and skirt.

As I mentioned, construction follows general dressmaking practices of the period: piping at the neckline and armscye, lining seams pressed to one side and overcast, etc. One difference has been the seam finishes on the skirt and trousers: frequently they are pressed open with the seam allowances secured with a feather stitch (same technique as used on wool flannel petticoats) rather than pressed to one side and overcast (if necessary).

It takes a lot of fabric to make one of these outfits so it's very important to pick a lightweight wool, or you're going to get your exercise just wearing the thing! :p

Johan -
If your wife can find some good illustrations or drawings, she should then be able to alter Past Patterns Gathered Bodice and/or their Garibaldi Shirt pattern for the bodice, and use an altered drawers pattern for the trousers. The skirt is pretty basic - straight panels gauged or pleated into the bottom of the waistband on the shirt. I think there is an illustration of a young lady in gymnastic dress in Stella Blum's book Fashions and Costumes from Godey’s Lady’s Book (New York: Dover Publications, 1985), as well as several illustrations in Godey's Lady's Book.

[VMurphy]

Re: Bloomers

Greetings, Ladies...
I've been lurking for sometime; and had to pop in on this great topic.

Last summer, I had a lady ask me to make her a simple "reform dress". I referred to the great article and research that Sandra Altman has done. At one point last year, The Meschers had the article on their site for study.
I missed that,(of course,Murphy's Law you know :sarcastic
so wrote Sandra asking if she could help me out. She graciously sent me a copy of the article. I look forward to the time when she gets a pattern, with her historical documention available.

I ended up making this lady's dress of a dark cotton, gathered waist, full sleeves gathered in a cuff, and straight legged pants.

Ms.Altman's research is wonderfully informative to say the least. Many many documented photos and info on ladies converting garments, and making new ones. If I recall correctly they date as early as the mid 40's.! These garments weren't just for gymnastics/swimming but for the everyday comfort of getting around and traveling in the westward expansion era.

I have a piece of navy med.weight silk that I had planned to make into a "reform dress". I'm thinking silk because of how I plan to wear it. I also have a piece of tropical weight wool, actually two pieces that I considered, but felt the dark navy solid would be best.???

Now I'll I have to go back and re-read again...what to do?
:confused_

I've saved a sketch as wallpaper...a great sketch of a lady in reform dress. I found it on a group web site (can't remember which one) where some of the ladies had been studying reform wear and made themselves outfits.

I would like to have more information...this is a great topic!

Regards
Vivian Murphy