Sources for authentic ladies items; Hoops, accessories, etc

[Pennvolunteer]

Okay, I used the search function, which led me to this forum, but couldn't find the threads that led me to answers I am seeking. My wife does impressions here at the Fort Sill National Historic Landmark both as a laundress and as the commander's wife. We have been fairly successful in finding quality clothing (to replace the crap the previous regime had purchased), but so far the only sources for hoops (for the commander's wife impression) are all poly/cotton and plastic bones. I am also trying to find other accessories. I have found some on Etsy and ebay, but just trying to find her quality items for the living history impressions. Any advice?

[Tom Craig]

Re: Sources for authentic ladies items; Hoops, accessories, etc

I'm not 100% sure who makes ready made hoops, but if you check in with Needle and Thread in Gettysburg, I believe that they carry hoop kits that can be assembled by folks with modest sewing ability, and some pliers or wire snips for the actual hoops.

Take care,
Tom Craig
1st Maine Cavalry

[Spinster]

Re: Sources for authentic ladies items; Hoops, accessories, etc

Frank, the highest quality currently on the market is the Needle and Thread cage--available full assembled or as a kit.

Here is a link to those items through their Wooded Hamlet website

http://www.woodedhamlet.com/costume_accessories/CagedCrino.htm

There are other cage crinolines made with covered spring steel at a lesser price. They are a bit hardier than a fine wire crinoline, but the drawback to the cotton buckram covering is that it will let go from the steel when exposed to dampness. About once a year, I spend some quality time with a glue bottle and refurbish mine. One maker is http://www.etsy.com/listing/11950888...w_type=gallery
Various makers will offer anywhere from 5 to 10 bones in the cage crinoline. Price will vary accordingly. A quality maker should ask about height as well as waist, and desired impression. Bigger around is not necessarily better here, but more bones are. You may find that you have to rebalance the skirting on current dresses.

The Needle and Thread cages are a work of art. I've never done enough upper class to justify the cost, and camp rough too often to wear such a nice thing. I will say that any cage crinoline makes a HUGE difference in the quality and appearance of an impression, and in the manner in which clothing fits and moves. My buckram covered steel cage crinoline is over 10 years old at this point---it looks pretty rough, but functions just fine. In addition, I have a much smaller working cage that has proved exceptionally useful for the active working impression I do.

One word of caution---just a good hat changes what a soldier desires in uniform quality, a cage crinoline changes the ladies wardrobe worn over it. Too many reenactors start out sewing with the wrong weights of fabrics, whether it be 'blanket weight' in uniforms or ' upholstery/drapery weight in ladies clothing. Cage crinolines demand proper fabrics--too heavy upholstery dresses are both uncomfortable and will collapse the cage. Good tropical weight wools and crisp silk taffetas are the correct weights for this sort of impression, with crisply starched petticoats over the cage. The waist of the cage buckles over the corset which supports the weight of it and the petticoats.

[Jeremy Bevard]

Re: Sources for authentic ladies items; Hoops, accessories, etc

I will try to pass on some info from my girlfriend that does not have an account here. She has done more research on Victorian era women's clothing then I can fathom. I am going to try and get her to condense a huge research paper on the evolution of the women's clothing she has written into a shorter format for posting online, hopefully here.

But anyway, she was thrilled about the Needle and Thread cage saying it is the most accurate one she has seen. Matching many originals in the construction and material. The shape varies throughout the era but this one matches very close to one made in 1862 that is at the Met Museum.

http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/108689?rpp=20&pg=1&rndkey=20140509&ao=on&ft=*&deptids=8&when=A.D.+1800-1900&what=Crinolines&pos=14

A lady on Etsy makes what appears to be a nice corded petticoat perhaps for the laundress impression and posts on the B/S Facebook groups selling them with a link to the Etsy store. Sorry I don't have a link for her. My girlfriend was going to get one from her but decided she is to OCD not to make her own off her own research.

Since this is a hole in the Approved Vendors here are some other vendors for nice women's items, from what I hear:

http://www.aldridgeclothiers.com

http://www.pastreflectionsreproductions.com

http://www.theladiesdressmaker.com

[Pennvolunteer]

Re: Sources for authentic ladies items; Hoops, accessories, etc

All,
Thanks, this is great information. The irony; I just got a package from Needle and Thread today of wool tape for my trousers... Well acquainted with them, but I only always looked at tape for trousers and chevrons!