Fitted lining

[Tyler Underwood]

Hi folks, I am planning on starting a paletot project in the near future. I have never closely examined original civilian garments before, but have examined numerous military jackets. One thing that I have always noticed was that each military jacket had a bagged lining. My question is; has anyone ever seen fitted linings in original mens civilian coats and jackets? Or is there any written documentation that I should be looking at?

By fitted, I mean that the outer material and the lining would both be sewn together and the felled seam is visible.

Forgive me if "fitted lining" is not the correct terminology.
I also think that this was a topic on the forum once before, but I had no luck finding it.

[Elaine Kessinger]

Re: Fitted lining

The term you are looking for is "flat" lining. It's common for women's bodices in period because women's bodices are designed to be altered to fit a changing figure often. The flat lining also supports delicate fabrics better in hard structure. A woman's bodice is draped using dress-making techniques.

A man's coat, whether frock coat or paletot (sack coats fall into the paletot category), have a "bagged" lining to protect the inner tailoring during use and as a mounting foundation for some of the support structure. Coat lining construction is important to the tailoring techniques. In other words, if a lining is present, it needs to follow tailoring techniques rather than dress-making ones.

Different purposes, different uses, different techniques, by different artisans... so no, no flat lining of coats.

[Tyler Underwood]

Re: Fitted lining

Elaine, thank you for the information. It was very helpful and informative!