Questions about "Duck" cloth, etc.

[markj]

Greetings,

I would greatly appreciate any information the forum might be able to provide about the following terms:

"Patapsco duck [cloth]"
"Thistle duck [cloth]"
"Marshal's flax thread"
"German wool"
"Gunsier wool"

In the course of putting together an article, I found these items mentioned in a period military contract but, as of yet, have been unable to pin down specific information about them. I'm not sure if "Patapsco" or "Thistle" were, for example, trade names or perhaps referred to specific locales. In fact, "Patapsco" is a river in Maryland and is located in the area of Baltimore. I'm not sure what "Thistle" is--this may refer to Scottish origins (i.e., a national symbol of Scotland is the thistle). "Marshal" is obviously the name of a patentee or a firm (possibly English) but I'm still stumped.

As for "German wool," I believe this refers to fine, high-quality export wool (e.g., merino) produced in such areas as Silesia and Saxony. "Gunsier" is another mystery although I think it's a corruption of another place name.

Inquiring minds want to know!

Thanks,

Mark Jaeger

[KarinTimour]

German wool

Dear Mark:

I can help you with the "German wool" question.

You wrote:

Greetings,

As for "German wool," I believe this refers to fine, high-quality export wool (e.g., merino) produced in such areas as Silesia and Saxony.

You're definately on the right track -- here's some more which may help:

From the "Encyclopedia of Victorian Needlework" by S.F.A. Caulfeild (yep, that's how it's spelled), originally published in London in 1882 as the "Dictionary of Needlework" -- I have the second edition, published in 1887:

"German wool (termed in French Zephyr Menior) -- This is another name for Berlin wool (for which see). It is very evenly twisted, smooth and soft, excelling Fleecy in these respects and all other kinds of wool in itis capacity of receiving the most brillant dyes. The wool so-called was obtained from German sheep, although chiefly spun at Keightley, in Yorkshire; but much of our best wool has latterly been imported from our own colonies in Austraialia. There are two sizes sold, the double and the single."

KT note: In the 19th century the fineness of the spinning was given names, just as we do today. Today's names are "Worsted," "Double Knitting or DK," "Sport," "Fingering," and "Lace-weight." "Zephyr", "Fleecy," "Fingering," "Scotch Fingering," and "Double Berlin" and "Single Berlin" are all 19th century names for the thickness of the wool yarn. However, we don't exactly know what each of these 19th century yarns correspond to in terms of modern weight or sizes of yarn.

Back to S.F.A. Caulfeild:

"Berlin Wool: Otherwise called German Wool and Zephyr Merino. Manufactured for the purpose of knitting and embroidery. It is to be had in two sizes, the single and the double. Keightley, in Yorkshire, is the chief seat of manufacture, and the Wool is sold either in skeins or by weight. A quantity of real German Wool is brought into Great Britain in a raw state, and is combed, spun and dyed, chiefly in Scotland, but that dyed here is less perfect and durable than that imported ready for use, excepting those dyed black, which are cleaner in working. [KT note: I suspect that "cleaner in working" means that the English black dye is not "crocking" or rubbing off on the hands of the person who is knitting it as much as the German black dye does.] The English grown embroidery lambswool, though harsher, is in some respects superior, the scarlet dye quite equalling, if not surpassing the German as also several shades of all the other colors and neutral tints. It is best suited for use on coarse canvas. Berlin or German Wool is the finest of all descriptions and is produced from the fleece of the Merino breed of Saxony sheep, and of neighboring German States. The principal seat of it's manufacture into thread for needlework is Gotha whence it is sent to Berlin and elsewear to be dyed. Wool of the same breed of the Merino is largely exported from Austalia and Van Dieman's Land. Berlin Wool for embroidery may be had in all colors, also shaded and partridgely coloured, and ingrain at different prices both by the skein and by weight."

Hope that's helpful,
Karin Timour
"The Stores in the Socks" Conference on Women and the Civil War, Richmond, Virginia, June 2004
Period Knitting -- Socks, Camp Hats, Balaclavas
Atlantic Guard Soldiers' Aid Society
Email: Ktimour@aol.com